Sep
04
2011
Project Image

I am going to be showing you how to make your own standing floor mirror and give it a reclaimed and weathered wood look without having to track down and purchase reclaimed wood. If you live in an area like mine, this would be nearly impossible without knowing someone who knows someone, whose cousin used to do some such thing that allowed him to keep old wood from demo projects...you get what I'm saying...no? This will be constructed from brand new boards (unless you are able to find reclaimed, in which case you are a lucky duck!)...dimension lumber in fact, that should be readily available in your local lumber aisles at your local hardware/lumber supply stores. You are obviously not required to give this mirror a reclaimed or weathered look and it would be amazing with a beautiful stained or painted finish

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander in this instance an actual sander rather than sand paper or a sanding block will really save you time and and a lot
  • Saw - to cut your pieces to size
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig - pocket hole system (this will be a very helpful thing to have, but you may also countersink screws at an angle if you prefer not to purchase this tool)
Lumber
  • 2 - 2x6 at 8'
  • 1 - 2x6 at 6'
  • 2 - 3/4x1/2" Trim at 8'
  • 1 - 3/4x1/2" Trim at 6'
Materials
  • Mirror sized to 26x74"
  • Kreg Jig Owners: 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1 1/2" Screws
  • 1" Screws
  • Plastic Sheeting - something with a bit of thickness to protect the back of your mirror. Bubble wrap would also work well.
  • Heavy Duty Duct Tape
  • Mirror Hanging Clips
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler - this is optional as the purpose it serves is merely to fill space where the boards meet on the front side
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies: for weathered wood you will need a stain, either red mahogany, mahogany, or walnut will work best...and a grayish paint color or a weathered wood colored stain. I chose Knotty Pine for this project but you are welcome to choose any wood you prefer.
Cut List
  • 2 - 2x6 at 25" (Top and Bottom)
  • 2 - 2x6 at 84" (Sides)
  • 2 - 3/4" x 1/2" Trim at 29"
  • 2 - 3/4" x 1/2" Trim at 77 1/2"
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Fasten your frame together using Pocket Hole Screws and glue. Use 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and your kreg jig set for 1 1/2" stock.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Once your Frame has been constructed you can fill the seams with wood filler to make this appear to be one solid piece. Overfill and then sand down

Step 3

Now you will begin your "reclaiming" and "weathering" process. This is your moment to get your anger and frustration out. Have fun, but be safe. I want you to hammer and chisel away. Mark, dent, scrape, and bang away. Use a large nail and a hammer and literally hammer the nail at an angle to make lines as shown in the image below. I also used my sander on it's side to create a series of lines every so often to make this look saw cut or rough cut. There is no tool off limits, just be sure you DON'T MAKE THIS LOOK UNIFORM. Irregularity is the name of this game. You don't want an obvious pattern. Some people have used chains, but I never seem to have those on hand in an appropriate size or weight. **You would also do well to use your sander and severely sand the edges down so that they are almost rounded and look as though beaten down by years of rain and water, just as driftwood is generally rounded and smooth. See bottom left image below for this example. Below are some of the marks I made for my own, just know that I shot these photos after I stained and washed.

Step 3
Step 4

Once you have thoroughly beaten your Mirror Frame you will stain it. I feel a 2 part staining process will give you the best weathered look, but you can go with a weathered wood colored stain or a gray wash by itself and still it will be amazing. Otherwise I recommend beginning with either Red Mahogany, Mahogany, or Walnut. Do not worry about applying this well. In fact, the worse you do the better it will look! Wipe it on with a brush, lint free rag, or even a sock. Make sure you get this first color into all of the grooves and indentations in fact if you can focus on those areas it will turn out better in the end. Colors such as these are most appropriate: The colors above are by Cabot and are Mission Brown and Oak Brown.

Step 4
Step 5

Then once that has dried follow up with the weathered wood colored stain or your gray paint wash. Use a brush for this step and keep it light and on top. You will apply this conservatively and layer as needed...in a very sloppy manner! The messier the better and the more realistic it will look! Here are a few options for color for either stain or paint. If using paint choose a color in the greige family (gray beige) and water it down a ton. You want this to be at least 2 parts water to one part paint if you go this route. These are stains by Cabot and are Napa Vine, Sycamore, and Driftwood. Choose a semi-transparent stain. For paint color I chose Birch Bark by Deco Art and added a tiny bit of white and a drop of blue before watering it down. Allow your frame to fully dry before you continue on to the next step.

Step 5
Step 6

Fasten your Mirror to backside of the Frame. I will provide you with a few different alternatives for accomplishing this in the next step but let's begin by stating that your mirror should be about 1/2" larger than your opening on all 4 sides.

Step 7

To attach your mirror you can use mirror hanging devices as seen in most standard tract home bathrooms. Those little claw feet that will screw onto the frame on both the top, bottom, and sides to keep the mirror in place. They look like the image below and can be found at any hardware store. If you don't prefer to purchase this extra material you can use heavy duty tape as instructed in the next step to secure your mirror.

Step 7
Step 8

Then I would recommend a layer of protective plastic or thick duct tape. I chose a plastic sheeting layer but strips of tape would also work if you happen to have that around. You want this layer to extend about 1 1/2" beyond the edge of the mirror (and clips if you used them). If you don't care to purchase mirror hanging clips, you can also secure your mirror in place by using only thick duct tape, perhaps something likeĀ Gorilla Glue Tape.

Step 8
Step 9

While holding the mirror in place you will quite literally place strip after strip down the length of the mirror with 1 1/2" overhang to allow for the next step.

Step 9
Step 10

Once you have taped or covered in plastic or both...you will attach your trim around the edge to secure your tape or plastic in place even further. This allows you to secure your mirror without running the risk of breaking it and gives you a bit of room to maneuver. Use the 1" Screws.

This bottom images show what this will look like:

Note: I mitered my corners only to realize it really wasn't necessary, so save yourself the trouble!

Step 10
Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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