Antique Rubbed Finish in White with Turquoise Underlayment

Submitted by RyTurner /
Project Image

Part 2 in the Antique Rubbed Finish series: White with a Turquoise underlayment.

This finish uses a rubbed technique just as the Black finish did...the difference between the 2 techniques is that when using an Antique White as your primary color, you can use a 2 tone effect. What I mean by this is that you can paint a base color of your choosing, in this instance I chose Turquoise (and I know you all love Turquoise). You can then paint your white over the top. When you rub with this paint combo your underlayment color will show through giving your furniture a fabulous layered and worn appearance. You can actually layer multiple colors if you like. This tutorial will only focus on one, but know that more is definitely an option.

Instructions

Before we get started, if you are new to the world of finishing (or painting)...take a moment to visit my post on Tips and Tricks for Painting like a Pro

The image above indicates what the finish will look like, differing only in the underlayment color you choose for yourself! You could choose a fabulous green, yellow, a brown or even an orange color. I might stay away from Red underneath a white because you might have a bit of bleed and end up with a pinkish tone (you would have to be VERY careful).

Step 1

Sand and then Prime your piece well (see tips and tricks), DO NOT skip these steps. They set the stage for a fabulous finish! Consider it the foundation for your home or the base coat for your nail polish. Don't skimp!

Allow your primer to FULLY dry between coats and before you begin your next step. Paint or primer that isn't fully dry will be problematic later...trust me!

Step 1
Step 2

Paint your underlayment color. Give this at least 2 good coats (especially if you are working with MDF) but don't spend a ton of time on this step. You just need to really ensure proper coverage for the areas you plan to 'rub' later. I chose Turquoise, and used a satin finish water based paint. You will see as we continue through our finishing series, that I tend to stick to Satin Finish when I am Antiquing or doing a faux finish.

Step 2
Step 3

Let each coat of paint dry adequately before applying the next, but when you think your underlayment is fully dry begin your final coats with your Antique White or white. I applied 3 coats (2 might be fine, you will need to play this by ear and adjust according to your furniture piece) and chose Parchment White by Glidden (very similar to Antique White, maybe a tad less gray).

Step 3
Step 4

Now we begin our sanding, just as before with the Black Rubbed finish, so please review the sanding steps we did in that tutorial. The only difference is that if you are doing a 2 tone finish, you can sand off a BIT more if you like (not too much more, but a tad).

Caution: Sand carefully as you don't want to sand right through your underlayment color to the MDF (if you used MDF). If you used wood, then a touch of wood showing through might be fine, but this will be a matter of choice.

Again, don't get crazy on the sanding, this is the single most problematic area people run into with finishes... getting a bit ahead of themselves and over sanding in too many areas. If you are uncertain, stick to the edges, that will be fantastic, and you really don't need much more showing through than around the edges!

If you have sanded off more of the White than I have below, you have
gone to far...

Step 4
Step 5

Once you have completed your sanding and you are happy with the result, you will need to clean your piece thoroughly. Begin with a vacuum cleaner and soft bristled brush attachment. Follow up with a tacky cloth to remove any remaining debris (you can also use a slightly camp cloth).

Step 6

Apply 3-4 coats of Minwax Polycrylic (does not yellow as polyurethane does) or Minwax Wipe-On Poly.

Note: I always recommend using a Satin Finish protective coat when Faux Finishing so that you your piece looks truly antique. If the piece you are working on was actually aged and had the top coat rubbing away, what are the chances it will have a glossy finish for the protective coat. I will tell you that is not likely nor was high gloss something that was found year ago unless it was a true Japanese lacquered technique applied tirelessly with coat after coat. So...no go on the gloss if you are faux finishing. If you are simply painting and looking for durability...by all means, high gloss away!

**If you are going to apply in a non-spray format, consider purchasing a Shur-Line pad to apply this product, brush marks will be an issue.

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