Free Woodworking Plans to Build an RH Inspired Printmakers Desk

Build the Box: Use your Kreg to join your boards, at the 3/4 setting. Place a Pocket Hole approx. 2" from the edges of your boards and then every 6". I have shown placement for these on the left side of the image below. Where you have boards that are separate but directly above and below one another (the mint green and yellow green pieces seen below), stagger your Pocket Hole placement a tiny bit (1/4") to ensure you don't weaken your wood. When building this box, start at the bottom and work your way up for the ease of assembly. For the Shelves, your Pocket Hole placement will be on the bottom of the shelf on the outside edges.

Fasten the Backs to your box: Use the Kreg to attach the back to the Bottom Panels and the Main Panel at a 1/2" setting. You should also use your 1" Screws to fasten the Backs directly to the Dividers and Side Panels.

Construct the Frame: Use your Kreg at a 3/4" setting to attach the Cross Bars to the Legs, place your Pocket holes on the under side of the Cross Bars, 4 per Cross Bar should more than suffice (2 on each side of each Bar). Use the 1 1/2" setting to join the frame pieces for the Top Frame. The Top and Bottom Frames are separate and not attached to each other.

Front and Back Bottom Frames, Front and Back Top Frames:

Fasten the Frames to the Box: Use your Kreg on the 3/4" setting to fasten the Box to the Legs on the Front Side of the Box and on the Back Side of the Box you will actually fasten directly into the Legs using 1 1/2" Screws, from the inside of the box through the Back Panels. Begin with the Lower Section. The Main Panel will sit directly on the top of the Bottom Frame/Legs, use 1 1/2" Screws to fasten the Main Panel down into the Legs, be sure to countersink so that it remains flush. Then attach the top Frame to the Main Panel and the Dividers.

This is an ideal time to attach your drawer slides. Once you have done that, fasten the Box Top to the Box: Use 1 1/2" Screws, be sure to countersink.

Trim out your Desk: Use glue and 1 1/4" Finish nails to fasten the trim and paneling in place. Miter the corner edges of your Upper side trim (yellow green pieces on the outside top of the desk) for the most professional appearance. if you aren't able to do this, you can substitute a 1x2 for the lower 1x3 and fill the seam. **If you choose this option, you will need to add 1/4" to the length of your side paneling on the outside upper side panels making them 4" instead of 3 3/4". The False Panels on the Back are 3/4" Plywood. This isn't required or necessary in any way, mainly decorative. If you will have the backside showing for your desk placement, you can add additional paneling on the back over the top of the Plywood just as you are doing for the sides and top.

Build your Drawers: Use your Kreg at the 1/2" setting on all 4 sides of the drawer bottoms to fasten them to the Sides and Front/Back of each drawer. Also fasten the Front and Back to the Sides. You can see approximate Pocket Hole Placement in the X-Ray diagram below. You will place pocket holes approximately 2" from the edges and every 6" thereafter. The Front/ Back and Sides of the Top Drawers are constructed out of 1x4 Boards for ease of constructing. Not having to worry about cutting plywood perfectly square is always easier. The Middle and bottom Drawers are constructed out of 1/2" Ply but could be constructed out of 1x8 and 1x12 boards if you don't mind the perimeter being shorter than the drawer face, however you will need to decrease the size of the drawer bottoms by 1/2" in either direction to accommodate this. This is an option you should consider if you have trouble cutting perfectly square pieces of ply.

X-Ray Pocket Hole Placement example, Outside Top Drawers, Top Center Drawer, Middle Drawers, Bottom Drawers:

Fasten the Side Mount Drawer Slides to your Drawers and insert. Fill any Screw Holes and Finish as Desired. For a Faux Reclaimed or Weathered look if using new boards, see my Finishing School.