Free Furniture Plans to Build Part 1 of PB Inspired Hudson Small Media and Gaming Console

Submitted by RyTurner /

This is plan is for building the first part of this Small Media and Gaming Console inspired by Potterybarn's (allegedly) Hudson Collection and the Smart Design will indeed be a smart build for any of you who decide to tackle this project! This will have doors and a pull out drawer with shelving insert that will be covered tomorrow. For a quick peak at what is to come, you might consider taking a peak at the Original found on the Potterybarn website (allegedly).

I know many of you are wanting plans for a TV console, and I promise we will cover several...in the meantime, I urge you to take a peak at some of those that we have covered already like the Coastal Media Buffet (my name for those pieces that might actually work for both Media or Dining Storage) inspired by the Big Sur Collection at Crate and Barrel (allegedly), and the X Collection Media Buffet (same idea) inspired by the Ballard Designs Belgard Cabinet (allegedly). I know some of you are new here...thank you for joining us! We love good company!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Tools

Tape Measure

Drill

Saw

Miter Saw - optional - you will need to cut the legs at an angle and miter the cove molding, but you can use a circular saw or jig saw for the legs and a jig saw, coping saw, miter box etc for the cove molding

Kreg Jig - optional but not as easy without and will shrink the interior space available

Pneumatic Nailer - optional as you can use a hammer and finish set to attach the top or screws and a countersink bit if this is difficult

Lumber

2 - 2x3 at 6'

1 - 2x2 at 6'

1 - 1x2 at 6'

1 - 1/4" x 1 1/2" trim piece at 36"

1 - 3/4" or 1" cove molding @ 8'

1 sheet - 3/4" Ply or MDF @ 4' x8'

**1/2 sheet - 3/4" Ply or MDF @ 4'x4'

Materials

1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws

2" finish nails (you can also use 2" wood screws if finish nails are difficult, just be sure to countersink)

3" Hole Saw Drill Bit - can also use your drill and a jig saw to carve cord holes

3/4" iron on edge banding for the plywood top or you can trim out with 3/4" square trim or use 1x12's instead of ply

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sandpaper

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 - 2x3 at 31 1/4" Legs

2 - 3/4" Ply @ 18" x 28 1/4" Side Panels

2 - 3/4" Ply @ 35 1/2" x 28 1/4" Back Panel

2 - 3/4" Ply @ 18" x 38 1/2" Shelves

1 - 3/4" Ply @ 22" x 42 1/2" Top (you can use 2 - 1x12's if you prefer)

1 - 2x2 @ 35 1/2" (Bottom Shelf Trim)

1 - 1x2 @ 35 1/2" (Upper Shelf Trim)

1 - 1" cove molding at 42"

2 - 1" cove molding at 22"

2 - 1/4" x 1 1/2" trim at 18"

Instructions

You can miter the trim pieces for this project and can modify the style of the trim as desired, however cove molding is most true to the original (allegedly).

If you are painting this piece, consider painting prior to assembling, for a smooth finish without difficult angles, corners and drippy parts...

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the legs and panel to size and angle the bottom 3" of the legs by cutting it away to the 1" mark of the width. Fasten your panels to the legs leaving 1/4" on the outside to allow for the trim later. Use your Pocket Hole System set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten in place.

Step 2

Cut your back panel to size, cut a hole into the the center at 6" down from the top for cords and such to run out the back (smart, huh?). Use a 3" hole saw or a jig saw to create your cord hole, and then attach the back panel using your pocket hole system set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. This panel will sit flush with the front of your back legs so that attaching your shelves will be easy and won't require notches.

Step 3

Turn your unit over and fasten your shelves in place using your pocket hole system set for 3/4" stock. You will create pocket holes around the entire perimeter of the shelves including what will be the front for easy attaching to the trim pieces. The trim for the bottom shelf (which will be at the top while turned over) will be a 2x2 that sits flush with the top of the shelf and a 1x2 for the upper shelf that sits on it's side, and is flush with the shelf. Fasten the shelves to the unit and then the trim to the shelves using your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 4

Fasten your top in place. It will sit flush with the back of the back legs, and should be centered on either side. Attach with glue and finish nails or screws if finish nails are difficult for you (they are for me and I don't own a nailer) just be sure to countersink your screws if you are going that route. If you prefer to use boards for the top you can substitute for edge glue pine boards or 2 - 1x12's and it will simply give you a bit more overhang which you can add to the backside so that it isn't off balance at all, or simply allow an extra 1/2" toward the front and you will be fine.

Step 5

Miter your cove molding and attach under the top around the front and sides. Use your finish nails and glue to fasten in place. Cut your lower 1/4" trim to size and fasten in place using finish nails and glue as well.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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