Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Hudson Bedside Table

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image

I think you will all be excited to know this is another amazing project from our girl Loren. I am so completely grateful to her for all of her efforts for us here at TDC. I have been trying (to no avail) to convince her to don the title of Official Contributing Editor (for whatever that’s worth), but alas she is too humble for such things…Perhaps if we all lobby and group together, we can convince her that she is so deserving of it! I fear we may not be able to work our magic on her, but I want you all to know that she is the gal for whom the credit is due! Thank you Loren!

Estimated Cost

$25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Tape Measure

Sander

Drill

Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.

Saw - Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.

Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.

Lumber

1 - 2x2 at 10’ or 2 – at 6’

1 – 1x8 at 6’

1 - 1x6 at 6’

3 - 1x2 at 8'

1 – 1x2 at 10’

1/2 sheet of 3/4” Plywood

Materials

**3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig

1 1/4” Wood Screws – can also use 1 1/4” finish nails

1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws

2” Finish Nails

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 26 1/4” Legs

2 – 1x8 at 13” Sides

1 – 1x8 at 16” Back

8 – 1x2 at 13” Side Rails and Side Trim-

6 – 1x2 at 16” Front/Back Rails and Back Trim-

6 – 1x2 at 7 1/4” Side Trim on All 3 Sides-

2 – 1x2 at 15 3/4” Drawer Face Trim-

2 – 1x2 at 5 1/2” Drawer Face Trim-

2 – 1x2 at 22” Top Trim

2 – 1x2 at 19” Top Trim

2 – 1x6 at 13” Drawer Sides

1 – 1x6 at 14 1/4” Drawer Back

1 – 1x6 at 15 3/4” Drawer Front

1 - 3/4” Ply at 13” x 16” Shelf

1 - 3/4” Ply at 12 1/4” x 14 1/4” Drawer Bottom

1 - 3/4” Ply at 16” x 19” Top

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build your Base: Cut, Miter, and Space the Legs as shown in the image below and use your pocket hole system to secure the side and back panels, set for 3/4” stock with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the Sides and Back to the Legs using your 3” screws and glue. Be sure to countersink. The Sides and Back will sit flush with the inside edges of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Build the Shelf Frame and Add the Rails: Connect the Rails to the Legs and each other, where applicable and the Bottom Shelf to the Surrounding Rails. Use your Pocket Hole System set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. The bottom shelf and the lower rails will sit 4” from the bottom of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Fasten the Trim in place. Miter the corners for the most professional appearance, however you can also skip that step and it will still look fabulous. You can fasten the trim to the sides and back using 1 1/4” finish nails or 1 1/4” screws from the inside. Be sure to use glue.

Step 3
Step 4

Build the Drawer: use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the inset bottom and sides in place. You can also use 2” screws and glue to fasten them in place and tack on the drawer face trim using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue or 1 1/4” screws from the inside and glue.

Step 4
Step 5

Fasten the Trim to the Top using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. You can also use 3” Screws and glue, just be sure to countersink, or skip the trim and use iron on edge banding. Fasten the top to the Legs, Sides, and Back using 2” Finish Nails and glue.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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