Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Viva Terra Inspired King Sized Vintage Fir Platform Bed

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image

Still stunning, no matter how you size it! This plan is updated to include the use of a Pocket Hole System for increased stability and strength, not to mention ease of fastening without having visible screw holes.

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Tape Measure

Sander

Saw

Drill

** Kreg Jig - Optional, but would make this build easier and more stable as well as hide the connections a bit better.

Lumber

7 - 2x8 at 8'

2 - 2x6 at 8'

11 - 1x3 at 8'

14 - 2x4 at 8'

Materials

4" Screws

2 1/2" Screws

Wood Glue

Wood Filler or a Paintable Silicone if you prefer

Sandpaper

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 - 2x8 at 83 3/4" (Sides of Base Frame)

2 - 2x8 at 79" (Head and Foot of Base Frame)

2 - 2x6 at 80 3/4" (Joists)

2 - 2x8 at 80 1/2" (Sides of Perimeter)

1 - 2x8 at 92" (Foot Perimeter)

9 - 1x3 at 79" (Slats)

2 - 1x3 at 80 3/4" (Cleats)

12 - 2x4 at 92" (Headboard)

4 - 2x4 at 41" (Back Brace's)

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build the Base Frame: Use your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the Frame together and the Joists to the Frame. If you aren't using a pocket hole system, use 4" screws and glue.

Step 1
Step 2

Attach the Cleats 1 3/4" from the top of the Frame edge and use 2" Screws and Glue. The Slats should be spaced about 6" apart, screw down using 1 1/4" Screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Attach the Bordering Platform: Use 4" Screws and Wood Glue. Leave a 5" overhang on the sides and foot of the bed. The Side Platform Boards should be flush with the head of the beds frame, no overhang there.

Step 3
Step 4

Create the Headboard: Use 12 - 2x4's and attach them using your pocket hole system set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue. Attach by placing your pocket holes on every other board and fasten to the 2 adjacent boards in either direction. Use 2 1/2" Screws and Wood Glue. Attach 4 - 2x4's on the back side and Use 2 1/2" Screws and Wood Glue to fasten in place. This will provide extra balance and stability for your headboard.

Step 4
Step 5

Attach the Headboard to the Frame and Platform Boards. **Use 4" Screws to attach the Headboard to the Frame AT the frame sides, Joists, and at the Perimeter Boards, so that the screws go through the headboard and into the Frame Sides, Joists, and perimeter platform boards. ** Everywhere else you attach the headboard along the top of the frame, use 2 1/2" Screws and glue. This headboard will be top heavy, so it should sit against a wall for extra support.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any screw holes and finish as desired.

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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Comments

RyTurner's picture

definitely

Submitted by RyTurner on Thu, 09/01/2011 - 09:47

you can use any specie of lumber you like! i did price this out according to the cost of douglas fir, but you can absolutely use pine, cedar, or anything you like!

RyTurner's picture

absolutely!

Submitted by RyTurner on Thu, 09/01/2011 - 09:46

if you would like to post the dimensions of your mattress i would be glad to suggest whether it's easiest to bump the size down or up from a king or queen to accomodate! we can choose the one that is closest/easiest!

Anonymous's picture

California Queen

Submitted by Anonymous on Wed, 08/24/2011 - 07:43

Hi! I have just stumbled across your website and this is AMAZING... I have found so many ideas... Would this design be ok for a California Queen size bed? I think it would just make the fame a little bigger? I mean we cound trim down to the size of the bed and add an inch or two, or what would you recommend?

Thank you!
Jenn

Anonymous's picture

Vintage Fir Bed

Submitted by Anonymous on Fri, 08/19/2011 - 11:20

is the $75-$100 including the cost of purchasing douglas fir lumber? Are there any other alternatives other that douglas fir that would work?

RyTurner's picture

sizes!

Submitted by RyTurner on Tue, 08/09/2011 - 14:29

ok you are right it's a tad small for these dimensions....and a tad large for the queen dimensions. i would suggest using these plans, and decreasing the dimensions for everything that runs the width of the bed by 6 inches (the side to side measurements). so headboards will be 6 inches less, the head and foot of the frame, slats, and the bottom perimeter board.
then you can reduce the pieces that run the length of your mattress by 2 inches: frame sides, cleats, joists, side perimeter boards. that should do the trick!

Anonymous's picture

sizes!!

Submitted by Anonymous on Tue, 08/02/2011 - 05:06

I love the stuff you make. Amazing.
We are finally moving to a little house and I am planning to make 'vintage fir platform bed' however I am completely thrown by all the different mattress sizes. I am from Europe but have just returned to the Caribbean with my husband and Daughter after 10 years in Africa.......and everywhere there are different sizes in mattresses. aahh...
We bought a 'King size' which is 180 cm x 200 cm (70.9 inch x 78.7 inch) but I am not sure if i should make your King size platform bed. My 'King size' seems to small.
Hope you can advise me!
Daphne

Comments and Discussion