Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Hudson Valet

06|29|11

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Another piece for our Hudson Collection! So yesterday we were talking about the tools we keep in our tool boxes and I would love for some of you to share your tips, tricks, and special tools you always use with us here! If you are interested in sharing a bit about yourself, please send me an email to rayanturner@gmail.com. I would love to hear from you!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure

Sander

Drill

Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.

Saw - Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.

Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.

Lumber

2 – 2x2 at 8’ (one of each leg size per board)

7 – 1x2 at 10’

3 – 1x2 at 8’

1 – 1x2 at 6’

1 – 1x3 at 8’

1 – 1x3 at 6’

2 – 1x8 at 10’

2 Sheets of 3/4” Plywood or MDF

1 Sheet of 1/4” Plywood, Particle Board, or MDF

Materials

**3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System

**2” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System

1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws

7/8” Finish Nails or Brad Nails

1 1/4” Finish Nails

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 2x2 at 53 1/2” Legs

2 – 2x2 at 29 1/8” Legs

2 – 1x2 at 22” Upper Top Trim

2 – 1x2 at 22 7/8” Upper Top Trim

1 – 1x2 at 20 1/2” Lower Top Trim

2 – 1x2 at 20 5/8” Lower Top Trim

2 – 1x2 at 47 7/8” Door Trim

8 – 1x2 at 17 1/2” Door and Drawer Trim

6 – 1x2 at 7 1/4” Drawer Trim

12 – 1x2 at 17 3/4” Shelf Cleats and Drawer Supports

3 – 1x2 at 17 5/8” Drawer Supports

4 – 1x2 at 17 1/4” Lower and Upper Side Trim

2 – 1x2 at 25 1/8” Lower Side Trim

2 – 1x2 at 49 1/2” Upper Side Trim

3 – 1x2 at 48” Stiles Center and Back Panel Supports

1 – 1x2 at 18 3/8” Upper Trim Front

1 – 1x2 at 36” Bottom Trim

1 – 1x2 at 24 3/8” Lower Stile

2 – 1x3 at 14” Lower Top Frame

2 – 1x3 at 19 7/8” Lower Top Frame

2 – 1x3 at 15 1/2” Upper Top Frame

2 – 1x3 at 21 3/8” Upper Top Frame

6 – 1x8 at 17 3/4” Drawer Sides

3 – 1x8 at 16” Drawer Backs

3 – 1x8 at 17 1/2” Drawer Fronts

1 – 3/4” ply at 17 1/4” x 49 1/2” Side Panel

1 – 3/4” ply at 17 1/4” x 25 1/8” Side Panel

1 – 3/4” ply at 36” x 18 1/2” Bottom

1 – 3/4” ply at 48 3/4” x 17 3/4” Center Panel

3 – 3/4” ply at 17 3/4” x 17 5/8” Shelves

3 – 3/4” ply at 16” x 17” Drawer Bottoms

1 – 3/4” ply at 47 7/8” x 17 1/2” Door

1 – 3/4” ply at 21 3/8” x 20 1/2” Upper Top

1 – 3/4” ply at 19 7/8” x 19” Lower Top

1 – 1/4” ply at 36” x 49 1/2” Back

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build your Side Panels: Miter your legs at an angle from the 4” mark down on both the inside edges of each leg (2 of the 4 sides of the leg), leaving a 3/4”-1” square at the bottom. Secure the Panels using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. The Panels will sit flush with the inside edges and the tops of the legs. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the Panels to the Legs using your 3” screws and glue. Be sure to countersink.

Step 2

Attach the Bottom: Connect the Rail (Gray), and the Bottom (blue) to the Side Panels using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system you will need to use 3” screws to fasten the rails in place and 2” screws to fasten the Bottom in place. Be sure to countersink and use glue. All pieces on the back side (bottom) will sit in 1/4” from the back edge of the legs to allow for attaching the back panel later.

Step 3

Build the Center Panel and Fasten in place. The panel should be notched out in the back corner as shown below in a 3/4” square, and the 1×2’s that connect to it will be fastened as shown with the front 1×2 sitting parallel to the panel and the back 1×2 sitting perpendicular to the panel and flush on the side closest to the lower outside panel. Fasten the Panel to the 1×2’s using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Secure the panel to the existing unit by placing pocket holes in the vertical 1×2’s (gray) to attach to the existing frame already in place. It will sit precisely centered between the outside panels, and the front trim (blue 18 3/8” 1x2) will sit on top of the front parallel 1x2.

Step 4

Fasten the Side Trim and Back Panel in Place. Miter the corners of the Trim for the most professional appearance (not required) and tack on using 1 1/4” finish nails on the sides, and use 7/8” finish nails or brad nails on the back panel which you will cut into an L Shape. Use glue.

Step 5

Fasten the Shelves and Drawer Supports in place. The pieces will sit as shown below. The drawer supports (blue/gray) will be fastened together and to the side and center panel using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the shelf cleats (gray) directly to the center and side panel. Use 1 1/4” screws and glue to secure them and then fasten the shelves to them using glue and 1 1/4” screws and glue.

Step 6

Build the Drawers and Door. The Drawer bottom will sit inset and the drawer sides and front/back will be cut from 1×8’s. Use your pocket hole system to fasten the drawer bottom to the sides, front, and back, and to fasten the back to the sides, and the sides to the front. You will set it for 3/4” stock and use 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Tack on the trim using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. You will build 6 drawers. To build the door, simply cut a plywood panel and fasten the trim in place as shown in the image for the door below. Miter the corners for the most professional appearance. Hang the door according the the installation instructions that accompany your hinge type.

Step 7

Build the Top Frames. The top frame will be built using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the rails (gray and blue) to the stiles (blue and purple), so to speak, and fasten the Frame to the Unit using 2” Finish nails and glue.

Step 8

Add your Top. Miter the corners of the trim and attach using 2” finish nails and glue.

Finishing Instructions

Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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