Plans

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a 48 Inch Round Provence Table

05.31.11 By //
You Can Build This! The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Round Provence Dining Table

This is a slightly smaller version of the 60” Round Provence Table for those of you who love a round table but need a more compact option! Another piece of our Provence Collection which continues to be one of our most popular collections!

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

$25-$50

  • 1 – 2×4 at 6’
  • 2 – 2×4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2×6 at 6’
  • 4 – 2×6 at 8’
  • 2 – 2 x 6 at 10’
  • 1 – 1×6 at 6’
  • 1 – 4×4 at 6’
  • 1 – 4×4 at 23 1/4″ Center Post
  • 4 – 1×6 at 6 1/2″ Lower Leg Base
  • 1 – 2×4 at 43″ Top Support
  • 2 – 2×4 at 19″ Top Supports
  • 8 – 2×4 at 14″ Trusses
  • 1 – 2×6 at 18 1/2″ Solid Upper Leg Base
  • 2 – 2×6 at 6 1/2″ Segmented Upper Leg Bases
  • 1 – 2×6 at 27″ Solid Center Leg Base
  • 2 – 2×6 at 10 3/4″ Segmented Center Leg Bases
  • 5 – 2×6 at 48″ Inside Boards Table Top
  • 2 – 2×6 at 40″ Outer Middle Boards Table Top
  • 2 – 2×6 at 30″ Outer Boards Table Top

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Build the Leg Base: Cut your Upper Table Supports to size and fasten the yellow boards to the Center Support using a Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to then fasten to the Center Post using 3” Screws. Miter the Outside Edges of the Upper Leg Bases at a 45 Degree Angle. I have provided the measurements for top and bottom edges to make this easy for you. Fasten the Center Post to the Center Leg Base (red) using 3″ Screws, secure the leg base halves (orange) to the center leg base (red) using a Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws from underneath.

Cut and fasten the Trusses in place. They will connect to the upper leg bases and the table supports with 3″ screws at an angle into the beams, or by using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue. Each Truss will be cut at approximately the angle shown in the image below. However before you go ahead with those angled cuts, you should measure down 10 1/2” from the top and out 6 1/2” then mark your boards at the appropriate place to be sure your trusses are exact for your build. For the bottom trusses, you will measure up 12” and out 3 1/2” to find your angles and they should be somewhere in the ballpark of the numbers I indicate below.

Add the Solid Leg Base: Cut the pieces at a 45 Degree Angle on the outside edges, and glue and screw together and then glue and screw to the existing Upper Leg Base. Use 1 1/4” Screws to fasten the bottom leg base to the middle leg base, and use 2 1/2” screws to fasten the Center Leg Base to the Upper Leg Base.

Create the Segmented Leg Base: This will be very similar to the leg base above, only it will have a space in the middle so that it can sit astride the solid leg base in the step above. Miter the outside edges at 45 Degree Angles and fasten the Lower Leg Base to the Center Leg bases using 1 1/4” Screws and glue. It might be a bit of a tight squeeze to get inside here depending on your drill, but if you created pocket holes in the step above, Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the unit together. If you prefer to use a countersink bit and 2” wood screws, predrill and fasten in that manner. You may want to consider this as a possible plan b anyhow if you have a large bulky drill like I do!

Attach the Segmented Leg Bases to the Solid Leg Base: Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the existing Solid Leg Base you attached in the previous steps.

Construct the Top: Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue to construct the top. Place your pocket holes and screws in every other board (blue) as shown below. Begin with fastening the 5 boards in the center at 48” in length together, then fasten the outer middle (40”) and outer boards (30”) in place. Your table top will step down a bit to save you from waste, then you will mark out a circle with a radius of 24” (48” diameter circle). Once you have all of your boards joined and your circle drawn, you can cut around your markings, to create your circle using a jig saw. Once your circular top has been carved and sanded, attach to the table supports from underneath using 2 1/2″ screws. The Solid running table support should run perpendicular to the table boards so that it can provide the greatest amount of support to the table top.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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6 comments on “Free Woodworking Plans to Build a 48 Inch Round Provence Table”

  1. What are the 2×6’s at 60.5″ and 56.5″ for? I don’t see them used anywhere? Also, I can’t figure out the angles for the trusses. Shouldn’t the angles add up to 90? Yours are equalling around 80 so I don’t think they’re correct. I ended up having to go with 45 since my miter saw doesn’t go any higher 🙁 not quote the same look but similar. I’m having trouble figuring out the bottom trusses though because with a 45 they would have to be really short and it wouldn’t give the same look. I am a beginner at this so if any of that doesn’t make sense then that’s why! 🙂

    1. Oops, the 60.5 and 56.5″ pieces are not necessary for this build! Sorry about that! As for the angles… nope, don’t try to add anything up to 90 degrees, this would only apply if you were placing your trusses at a 45 degree angle – which you aren’t for this plan. Also, having the angles add up to 80 degrees, doesn’t mean you actually cut anything at 80 degrees – you will cut at the angles shown in the diagrams and place the trusses at the appropriate places as outline in the diagrams. Since none of the required angles are over 39 degrees, you should have no problem making the cuts as outlined in the plan. The top and bottom trusses here both have different angles for each side. The top trusses will be mitered at 38.6 for the side that touches the table support up top and 39.6 for the bottom angle that rests against the base. The lower trusses will have a 27 degree miter sitting at the top and resting against the base and the bottom edge will be mitered at 26.6 where it rests against the leg unit. This will ensure the trusses sit in the right spot when you attach them, but that dimension is also provided in the diagram. You should have no problem with things sitting well and securing properly, you are just working harder than you need to! A gal after my own heart…

      1. How do you set up your miter for the angles of the trusses? I thought I cut them right but they are not matching up to the top or bottom supports

  2. Is this the only woodworking plans you have for 48inch xbase round dining room table or can I get them through the mail

  3. Can I shave this plan down to a 42 inch round table? Would it affect anything else on the plans that I dont know about?

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