Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a RH Inspired Kenwood Nightstand
I love the look of this collection, with the planked panels and strap hinges! Depending on the finish you use, this could have either a rustic or modern appearance!
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I am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Saw: Jig, Circular, or Miter
1/2 sheet of 3/4" plywood
1/4 sheet of 1/4 plywood
6 - 1x3 at 8'
1 - 1x2 at 6' or a scrap piece at least 18" long
1 1/4" pocket hole screws
1 1/4" brad nails
Drawer pull or Door Handle
2 - strap hinges
1 - 1x2 at 17 3/4" -Front Frame
6 - 1x3 at 12 1/2" -Door Frame, Side Frames
5 - 1x3 at 14 1/4" -Door
1 - 1x3 at 17 3/4" -Front Frame
10 - 1x3 at 18 1/2" -Side Panels
2 - 1x3 at 19 1/4" -Door Frame
6 - 1x3 at 26 1/4" -Side Frames, Front Frame
1 - 1/4" ply at 21 3/4" x 22 3/4" -Back
2 - 3/4" ply at 17 1/2" x 21 1/4" -Shelf & Bottom
1 - 3/4" ply at 18 3/4" x 23 1/4" -Top
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the
GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut out the pieces as listed for the sides. You should have four 1x3 pieces at 12 1/2" which will be the tops and bottoms for each side, four 1x3 pieces at 26 1/4" for the sides of the frames, and ten 1x3 pieces at 18 1/2" for the panels. I like to drill all of my pocket holes first, then assemble.
Cut and attach shelf and bottom. As a note, the top of the board used for the bottom should be flush with the top of the lower rail on the sides, see drawing.
Cut the back from the 1/4" material. Attach with glue and nails (or a brad nailer) after making sure the cabinet is square.
Cut the door frame pieces. I like to assemble these frames as one piece (face frame) rather than attach them individually, so use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Attach to front with glue and nails (or a brad nail).
Cut and attach top. The top will overhang the front and sides by 1/4". It can be attached by using a brad nailer and fastening directly through the top into the sides and the front frame or by using 1" angle brackets.
Cut the pieces for the door: you should have two 1x3 pieces at 12 1/2" for the top and bottom of the frame, two 1x3 pieces at 19 1/4" for the sides and five 1x3 pieces at 14 1/4" for the panel. The door should have an 1/8" gap on all sides between it and the frame.
Attach the hinges and the knob. I find it easier to attach the hinges to the door first, then line it up and use shims to help keep it in place while attaching the hinge to the frame but use whatever method you feel comfortable with is fine.
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly on the cabinet and shelves, and brush-on poly for the top for added durability.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.