I pretty much adore this buffet! Absolutely adore it! The reclaimed wood look can be achieved by “abusing” it with a hammer, nail holes, chain, etc., leaving it out in the rain, or perhaps even a faux reclaimed finish would be fabulous. This piece would be an amazing island in a kitchen or used for storage in a family room!
Showcase: Built From These Plans
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the legs to length and cut the 2x3 pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3s. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the 1x3 pieces for the X braces as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown in the drawing. Assemble with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the plywood and 1x3 pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in the long edges of the plywood and in each end of the 1x3s. Assemble with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws as shown in the first drawing, then attach to sides with 1-1/2” pocket holes screws as shown in the second drawing.
Cut the 1x3 pieces for the front. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the 1x2 pieces for the drawer and drawer slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of all supports. Attach to legs with 1-1/2” pocket hole screws and to the back as shown using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the 2x3 pieces for the shelf supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and attach the supports to the legs with 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the plywood piece for the shelf. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back of the shelf. Attach to the supports with 1-1/2” pocket screws making sure the top of the shelf is flush with the top of the supports.
Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms and the sides. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom pieces and the two shorter edges of the sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The pocket holes for the sides will need to face the inside of the drawer box so they don’t show through the X braces.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box front and back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the drawer slides to the slide supports following the manufacturer’s instructions. The slides will be attached ¾” back from the front edge of the drawer support to allow for the drawer front.
Install the drawer boxes and make any necessary adjustments but do not attach the drawer fronts.
Cut the two pieces of plywood for the top. Attach the lower top to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws into the top piece of the back, sides and front. Attach the second top to the first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
If angle brackets on the corners of the top are desired, the can be attached “as is” or primed and spray painted in the finish you choose.
Cut the 1x2 pieces for the trim. Attach the sides first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front and back.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.