Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an RH Inspired 1900s Boulangerie Table

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

This table is perfect for using weathered or reclaimed pieces of wood, even scraps you may already have! You might even cut the table top pieces to fit the shorter width. Or for a fun pattern play, with two panels that run lengthwise and the other two could run widthwise or cut your inset pieces from different species of wood even! How fabulous would that be?

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Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Safety Gear
Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

2 – 4x4 at 6’
7 – 2x4 at 8’
Assorted 1x2s, 1x3s, and 1x4s each at least 31” long or
2 - 1x2 at 8’
1 – 1x2 at 6’
4 - 1x3 at 8’
1 – 1x3 at 6’
2 - 1x4 at 8’
1 – 1x4 at 6’

Materials

2-1/2” pocket hole screws
2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” pocket screws
1-1/4” screws
Countersink bit for Drill
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 4x4 at 28-1/2”- Legs
2 – 2x4 at 30” - Aprons
2 – 2x4 at 58” - Aprons
3 – 2x4 at 34” – Frame Supports
2 – 2x4 at 65” – Top Frame
2 – 2x4 at 40-1/2” – Top Frame
2 – 2x4 at 30-3/4” – Top Frame
1 – 2x4 at 33-1/2” – Top Frame
12 – 1x3 at 15” – Frame Supports
8 – 1x2 at 30-1/2” – Panel
8 – 1x3 at 30-1/2” – Panel
8 – 1x4 at 30-1/2” – Panel

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the legs with the taper as indicated.

Step 2

Cut the aprons as indicated. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of these pieces. Attach to the legs with 2-1/2” screws and with the taper facing the long side. Make sure the apron is flush with the outside facing edges of the legs.

Step 3

Cut the frame supports as indicated. Drill pocket holes in each end of the support and also along one long end of each board to attach the table. Secure to the inside of the frame as shown with 2” screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the top frame and assemble with 2-1/2” pocket screws as shown.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the top supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end. Attach to the top frame with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the bottom of the supports is flush with the bottom of the frame.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the panels. The pieces can be arranged in a random order but each panel needs to have 2 – 1x2s, 2 – 1x3s, and 2 – 1x4s in order to fit into the 15” opening. It would be a good idea to finish the panels before attaching them to the top in case there are gaps in between the boards.

Step 7

Drill countersunk holes in the frame supports of the top from the underside. Secure the panel pieces to the frame with glue and 1-1/4” screws.

Secure the top to the table frame with 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the frame supports of the table into the frame supports of the top. The ends of the table will overlap by 3-1/2”, and the sides will overlap by 1”.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

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Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.