Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Hamilton Kitchen Table Large

Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each of the 2x4 ends. Secure the 2x4 pieces to the legs with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the X-braces. An easy way to do this would be to cut the four 2x2 pieces at 34” long. Cut two of the pieces in half and drill pocket holes (for 1-1/2” material) in one end. Secure at the centers of the 34” pieces with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Clamp the pieces in place on the side frames and from the inside, draw lines to make the angled cuts at the corners of the braces. Drill pocket holes at the ends and secure to the side frame with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Make sure the fronts of the braces are flush with the faces of the side frames.

Cut the plywood pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes on three sides as indicated. Secure to the inside of the frame with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Make sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the side frames.

Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the side assemblies with glue and 2-1/2” screws locating them 2” up from the bottom of the legs. 

Cut the 2x2 pieces for the lower dividers. Drill pocket holes at one end and secure in the center of the lower stretchers with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the plywood pieces for the lower divider. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each of the 17” ends on one piece only. Secure to the 2x2 divider pieces with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The pocket holes should face to the inside and the face of the divider is flush with the side of the 2x2 divider.

Secure the second piece of plywood to the first piece, in between the 2x2s with glue and brad nails.

Cut the 1x3 pieces for the slats. Secure to the lower stretchers, evenly spaced, with glue and  countersunk  1-1/4” screws.

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the shelf supports. Secure to the sides and the divider at the spacing indicated with countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Each support should be located ¾” back from the face of each leg to allow for the shelf trim.

Cut the pieces for the shelves and attach to the supports with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the shelf trim and secure to the shelves with glue and brad nails.

 Cut the 2x4 pieces for the middle aprons and the upper aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of each piece. Attach the middle apron to the sides as indicated in the drawings with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws, and also use a couple of countersunk 2-1/2” screws in the center. Attach the upper apron pieces as indicated in the drawings with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer divider. Drill pocket holes in each end of the three pieces. In the shorter pieces, the top of the pocket holes themselves may overlap each other but it will not affect the screws and they will be completely hidden. Secure as indicated in the drawings with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the upper trim. Attach the sides first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front and back pieces.

Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, apply to the edges and secure to the cabinet with glue and brad nails through the top into the aprons. If using laminate, use a laminate cutter and cut strips for the edges of the top. The strips can be a little wider than the edges because the excess will be trimmed away with the router. Apply contact cement to the edges following the manufacturer’s instructions and apply the laminate. Use care because once it makes contact, it is stuck forever!! Using a router with a flush trim bit trim away the excess laminate. Secure the top to the cabinet with glue and brad nails through the top into the aprons. Cut the piece of laminate for the top. Use masking tape on the edges where the strips were applied (to keep the contact cement off and to keep it from chipping when using the router) and adhere the laminate to the top. Use the router again to cut away the excess laminate. Attach the casters according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Do not attach the drawer faces until the drawer  boxes have been installed and adjusted! Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions placing them ¾” back from the opening face to allow for the fronts. Make any adjustments necessary.

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Drill the holes for the handle or knob placement. Shim in place in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and drill a temporary screw through the holes into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers and secure the fronts to the boxes from the insides with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handle or knob