A fabulous reader request from our Community Pages and a fabulous piece in general. The Presley Media Console is sure to be a fabulous item to add to your home!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$100-$150
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Router
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 5 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×4 at 8’
- 5 – 2×2 at 8’
- Half sheet of ¼” lauan, hardboard, or plywood
- 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- Edge banding for plywood
- 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
- Door slide hardware (Rockler part no. 38905)
- 3 Recessed Drawer Pulls
- Glass for doors
- Rabbeting bit for router
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 35” – Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 17” – Side Panels
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 17” – Side Panels
- 5 – 1×2 at 17” – Shelf & Bottom Supports
- 2 – 1×2 at 61-1/2” – Shelf Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 64-1/2” – Lower Shelf
- 4 – 2×2 at 61-1/2” – Top & Bottom Frames
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 61-1/2” – Top & Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 61-1/2” – Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 17” – Dividers
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 20” – Shelves
- 6 – 1×4 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 6 – 1×4 at 19” – Drawer Boxes
- 3 – ¼” lauan or hardboard at 16” x 19” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 19-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 19-3/4” – Drawer Front
- 4 – 1×2 at 15-3/4” – Door Frames
- 4 – 1×2 at 17-1/2” – Door Frames
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the bevel as indicated.
Cut the 2×2 pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg Jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown in the plywood panel. Attach the frame pieces to the top and bottom of the panels with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back of the plywood panels should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.
Attach the side assemblies to the legs as shown with glue and pocket hole screws. Use 2” pocket hole screws to attach the 2×2 frame pieces to the legs and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the plywood panels into the legs.
Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the supports should be flush with the inside faces of the legs.
Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” notches in each corner. Attach to the supports with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the shelf into the supports.
Cut the pieces for the console bottom frame and supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the supports.
Cut a 1/8” rabbet in the top of the front frame piece for the door slide hardware. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut the plywood piece for the console bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the 2×2 frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom supports to the assembly as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach to the legs as shown with 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the legs and console bottom with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back side should be flush with the inside face of the legs as shown.
Cut the pieces for the top frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end.
Cut a 1/8” rabbet in the bottom of the front frame piece for the door slide hardware. Refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut the plywood piece for the top. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the 2×2 frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach to the legs as shown with 2” pocket hole screws. Use 1-1/4” pocket hole screws to attach the back to the top frame.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Attach to the cabinet as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides and dividers into the shelves.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach to the drawer boxes with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The drawer boxes will be located ¾” back from the front edge of the dividers.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Use a brad nailer to secure the fronts in place. Open the drawer and insert screws through the inside of the drawer box into the front. See manufacturer’s instructions for recessed handle installation.
Cut the pieces for the door frames. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Locate the pocket holes so the router bit will not hit the screws!
Rout a 3/8” deep rabbet in the back of the frame for the glass. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
