Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a RH Baby & Child Inspired Rowley Desk
I'm pretty sure LOVE doesn't adequately describe my feelings about this Free DIY Furniture Plan to Build a RH Baby & Child Inspired Rowley Desk! Adore is perhaps a better description...
Showcase: Built From These Plans
I am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Countersink Bit for Drill
1 – 1x2 at 4’
1 – 1x4 at 8’
1 – 1x4 at 4’
1 – 1x6 at 8’
1 – 1x6 at 4’
1 – 1x8 at 8’
1 – 1x8 at 4’
1 – 2x2 at 6’
2 – 2x3 at 6’
1 – 2x3 at 4’
Half sheet of ¾” plywood
1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2-1/2” pocket hole screws
Edge banding for plywood
2 – 24” Continuous hinges
2 –Lid stops
2 – 2x2 at 22” – Feet
4 – 2x2 at ½” – Feet
2 – 2x3 at 29-5/8” – Legs
2 – 2x3 at 30-5/8” – Legs
1 – 1x4 at 40-1/2” – Back Stretcher
2 – 1x4 at 3-1/2” (cut at 45 deg angle) – Back Stretcher Brackets
2 – 2x2 at 11” – Side Supports
1 – 2x3 at 40-1/2” – Front Support
3 – 1x6 at 25” – Compartment Sides & Divider
1 – 1x4 (ripped to 3” wide) at 45” – Compartment Front
1 – 1x6 at 45” – Compartment Back
2 – ¾” plywood at 21-3/8” x 24-3/4” – Compartment Bottoms
1 – 1x8 (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) at 47-1/2” – Back Trim
1 – 1x8 at 44-1/2” – Lower Trim
1 – 1x4 at 47-1/2” – Top Back
2 – ¾” plywood at 23-11/16” x 23-11/16” – Doors
2 – 1x2 at 23-11/16” – Door Trim
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the
GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the feet. Attach the ½” pieces as shown using glue and 1” countersunk screws.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle in the top of each piece. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom of each leg. Keep in mind that there will be two right legs and two left legs. The shorter legs will be located 5” from the front edge of the foot and the longer legs will be located 1” from the back of the feet. Attach to the feet as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back stretcher and the back brackets. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher. The dimension shown on the drawing is from the center of the back legs to the center of the stretcher. Attach to the back legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the brackets with glue and 1” screws toenailed through the corners into the legs and stretcher.
Cut the pieces for the front and side supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the compartment sides and divider. Cut the angles as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. In one of the three pieces, the pocket holes will be drilled in the opposite side.
Cut the pieces for the compartment front and back. The back piece will have a 4 degree bevel cut in one long edge (for the slope of the doors). The front piece will be located ½” below the top of the sides and divider.
Attach the sides and divider to the front and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the compartment bottoms. Cut the notches as shown. Drill pocket holes in the bottom of each piece – there will be a left and a right.
Attach to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the entire compartment to the legs using glue and countersunk 2” screws through the sides into the legs. The top of the legs will be flush with the top of the sides.
Cut the piece for the back trim. Attach using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the piece for the lower trim. Cut the notches as shown. Attach to the feet using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the piece for the top back. Cut a 4 degree bevel in one long edge (to fit flush against the back trim). Attach to the compartment using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the pieces for the doors and the door trim. Attach the trim to the bottom of the door using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the continuous hinges to length. Install according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.