Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Dawson Bedside Table
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Dawson Bedside Table. Still loving this collection! Xx... Rayan
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I am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
1 – 1x2 at 6’
5 – 1x3 at 8’
1 – 1x4 at 8’
One quarter sheet of ½” plywood
Half sheet of ¾” plywood
1-1/4” pocket hole screws
Edge banding for plywood, if desired
1 set of 18” drawer slides
2 sets of hinges
Door & Drawer pulls
8 – 1x3 at 29” – Legs
2 – 1x3 at 18” – Side Frames
2 – 1x3 at 13” – Side Frames
2 – ½” plywood at 13” x 21” – Side Panels
2 – 1x3 at 28” – Front & Back Frames
2 – 1x3 at 23” – Front & Back Frames
1 – ½” plywood at 21” x 23”- Back Panel
1 – 1x2 at 23” – Front Frame
2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 26-1/2” – Top & Bottom
2 – 1x2 at 18” – Slide Supports
1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
2 – 1x4 at 17-1/4” – Drawer Sides
1 – 1x4 at 22” – Drawer Back
1 – 1x4 at 22-3/4” – Drawer Front
2 – ¾” plywood at 11-5/16” x 15-1/2” - Doors
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the
GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Cut the miters in the tops of the legs as well as each end of the top frame piece. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the mitered ends of the top frame piece, each end of the lower frame piece, and the outside edge of the legs. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the side panel. Position the panel in the frame with the back face flush with the inside of the panel. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the front frame. Cut the miters in the tops of the legs as well as each end of the top frame piece. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the mitered ends of the top frame piece, each end of the lower frame piece, and the 1x2 stretcher. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side legs into the front legs.
Cut the pieces for the top and bottom. Drill pocket hole screws in all four edges of each piece. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the top will be flush with the top edge of the front and side frames. The bottom will be flush with the top edge of the lower frame pieces.
Cut the pieces for the back. Assemble in the same manner as the sides. Attach to the sides, top, and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Apply edge banding to all four edges of the front, if desired. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the side pieces to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Then attach the front and back pieces. The front will overlap the drawer box by 3/8” on each side. Install the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial,
click here. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Install the knobs or handles.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Apply edge banding to all four edges if desired. Attach the hinges to the doors, then attach to the cabinets. Make any necessary adjustments.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.