Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ridgely Media Console. The simple lines of this are begging for a build with a glossy finish or perhaps a more rustic and weathered finish. I feel like it could go either way and I can’t wait to see which you choose. Please send images to me via email of your completed build, or post a showcase, so we can celebrate your accomplishment! yahoo… Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$50-$75
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Router and decorative bit, optional
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 – 1×10 at 6’
- 3 – 1×6 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at6’
- 4 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 2” edge banding for edges of top
- 7/8” edge banding for edges of shelf and panels
- 5 sets of 16” drawer slides
- 5 drawer handles or knobs
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 1×3 at 28-1/2” – Legs
- 4 – 1×2 at 54-7/8” – Front Frame & Back Stretcher
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 54-7/8” – Back Panel
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 17” – Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 54-7/8” – Shelf
- 2 – 1×2 at 17” – Slide Supports
- 4 – 1×2 at 11” – Dividers
- 4 – 1×2 at 15-1/2” – Dividers
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 71-7/8” – Top
- 5 – ¾” plywood at 7-7/8” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 10 – 1×6 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Sides
- 10 – 1×6 at 9-3/8” – Drawer Fronts & Backs
- 2 – 1×10 (ripped to 7-3/4” wide) x 10-9/16” – Outer Drawer Fronts
- 3 – 1×10 (ripped to 7-3/4” wide) x 11” – Inner Drawer Fronts
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs, the front frame pieces, the back panel and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frames pieces and the stretcher. Drill pocket holes at three sides of the back to attach to the legs and to attach the top.
Assemble the front and back frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Drill pocket holes along three edges to attach to the legs and to attach the top. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the shelf. Attach to the front frame and back stretcher using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Attach to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The supports will be flush with the inside edge of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes as shown, then assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Attach the dividers to the inside of the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top. Spread glue on the surface of one of the pieces. Position the other piece on top and wiggle it a little to create suction, then clamp until dry.
Position on the cabinet with 6” hanging over each side, and flush at the front and back. Attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes drilled in the top edges of the sides and back.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottoms, as well as the shorter ends of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Cut a decorative edge on the fronts, if desired. Attach the drawer fronts to the drawer boxes. For another easy tutorial, click here.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
