Free DIY Furniture Plans to show you how to Make and Build a Reclaimed Timber Slat Media Stand. Easy to follow and fabulous for your budget, these plans will give you specialty retailer style for pennies on the dollar!
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 19 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- It may be more economical to purchase 1×8 lumber and rip it down to the width needed or rip strips of plywood
- 15 – 1×4 at 55” – Top & Bottom Frame
- 46 – 1×2 at 3-1/2” – Top & Door Spacers
- 22 – 1×4 at 18-3/4” – Sides & Legs
- 22– 1×4 at 3-1/2” – Side & Leg Spacers
- 18 – 1×4 at 27-7/16” – Doors
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 50” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 48” – Back
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
It would be easiest to sand and stain each board before cutting it. The cut ends can always be touched up after cutting. The stand will be assembled by starting with the top and layering each piece. Using brad nails would be better than screws because there will be less of a chance of hitting a nail in the piece below but screws can still be used, if desired (just keep that in mind!). Drill the holes in the pieces (where indicated) before assembly, also. The pieces for the doors should be coated with paste wax before assembly, especially at the end where it layers with the sides. This will enable the doors to slide smoothly when being opened and closed. The plywood pieces will be secured using pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the top and the top spacers. Position the spacers on the first board locating them 2” in from each end. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Continue layering all of the pieces in this manner until the top is complete.
Cut the pieces for the sides and the side spacers. Drill a ½” hole in each piece at one end as shown in the drawing. The first piece on each side will have a larger hole for the threaded insert. Tap the insert in each of the two boards before layering the side pieces. The bottom two boards will have a countersunk hole large enough to accommodate the nuts. Start by positioning the first side piece at each end of the table top. Secure to each top board using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Continue layering each side board and spacer, securing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Cut the pieces for the doors and drill a ½” hole as indicated in the drawing at one end of each board. Cut the pieces for the spacers and position as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Continue layering the boards until the doors are assembled. Slide the free ends of each door between the free ends of each side and line up the holes. Insert the threaded rod through the holes and turn it into the threaded inserts. Adjust the length of the rod if necessary, then add the nuts. Tighten with a pair of needle-nose pliers or a standard (flat) screwdriver.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and the bottom boards. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each longer edge of the bottom piece. Attach the bottom boards to the sides of the plywood using lgue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the bottom assembly as shown and secure using glue and brad nails or countersunk screws.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Layer and secure them in the same manner as previously done.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.