Plans

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Bourne Bar Cabinet

04.09.14
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Bourne Bar Cabinet via @thedesconf

By special reader request, I’m thinking this very smart reader is obviously one step ahead of me and perhaps this should be a build in my very near future as well! Especially with the week I have had, eek! Xx… Rayan

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Bourne Bar Cabinet via @thedesconf
  • 1 – 1×4 at 6’
  • 1 – 2×2 at 6’
  • 3 – 2×2 at 8’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 4 – 2×2 at 23” – Base Frame Legs
  • 4 – 2×2 at 18-1/2” – Base Frame Sides
  • 3 – 2×2 at 50” – Base Frame Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 51-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 27-1/2” – Sides
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 2-3/4” x 20” – Shelf Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 51-1/2” – Shelf
  • 1 – 1×4 at 53” – Front Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 26-3/4” x 51-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 53” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 23-1/4” – Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 14-1/4” – Cubby Shelf
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 21-13/16” – Wine Caddy
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 12-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/8” x 11-3/4” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/8” x 14” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/8” x 14-7/8” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Door Caddy Bottom
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 7-1/4” – Door Caddy Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Door Caddy Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 24-5/8” x 26-7/16” – Doors

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as the stretchers. Secure the side pieces to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Secure the stretchers to the legs and lower side pieces using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face down and won’t have to be filled.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the sides and back on the base so that the back and side edges are flush – it will be located ¾” back from the front of the base. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the shelf supports and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece. Secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The supports are flush with the front edge of the bottom which makes them ¾” short to allow for the back.

Cut the piece for the shelf. Position the shelf on the supports then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The shelf will be flush with the front edge of the supports.

Cut the piece for the lower front trim. Secure to the front of the sides and the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Furniture Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Bourne Bar Cabinet via @thedesconf Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Add a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the shelf supports and the shelf.

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the divider. Position in the cabinet as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top and back.

Cut the piece for the cubby shelf. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the wine caddy (the X). Cut a 49° bevel in the top edge, and a 40° bevel in the bottom. Cut the notch using a jigsaw. Slide the pieces together making sure the bevels face as shown in the drawing, and insert the caddy into the cubby. The caddy will rest inside the opening and can be secured in place using 1-1/4” brad nails, if desired.

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The drawer front will overlap on the right side (if facing the front) by 7/8” to overlap the divider.

Cut the pieces for the door caddy. Drill pocket holes in the back edge of the bottom as well as one end of the sides. The pocket holes will allow the door caddy to be secured to the door. Assemble the caddies using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the doors. Position the door caddies on each door noting that there will be a right and a left. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

 

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap at the sides, top, and bottom of the doors, as well as in between them. Install the magnetic catches according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then install the cabinet pulls.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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