Plans

DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Stove + Oven

12.07.15 By //
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Stove and Oven via @thedesconf

Weeee… I am a little late this year with our Handmade Holiday series of gifts, though I knocked out a few good hostess and adult gifts already – so, not all bad I guess. I will try to pump these out quickly in the midst of life, and birthdays… lots and lots of birthdays. Eek. And of course the holidays… which is precisely what you will want these for, no? Luckily this and the other pieces in this Chelsey Play Kitchen collection are easy builds! Seriously, like knock them out in an afternoon or so – easy. So let’s get right to it!

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!

Plans for the Chelsey Play Kitchen Refrigerator

You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Stove and Oven via @thedesconf
You Can Build This! Easy DIY Plans from The Design Confidential with Complete Instructions on How to Build a Chelsey Play Kitchen Stove and Oven via @thedesconf

 

  • 1 – 1×3 at 8′
  • 2 sheets of 1/2″ plywood or mdf
  • 4 – 1×3 at 17″ – Kick Plate and Supports
  • 2 – 1/2″ Plywood or Mdf at 22 1/2″ x 14 1/2″ – Side Panels
  • 1 – 1/2″ Plywood or Mdf at 17″ x 14 1/2″ – Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2″ Plywood or Mdf at 17″ x 14″ – Shelf
  • 1 – 1/2″ Plywood or Mdf at 17″ x 4″ – Range Board
  • 1 – 1/2″ Plywood or Mdf at 16 3/4″ x 15 1/4″ – Door
  • 1 – 1/2″ Plywood or Mdf at 18″ x 14 1/2″ – Top
  • 1 – 1/2″ Plywood or Mdf at 18″ x 26″ – Back

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Cut your side panels to size and using a jig saw or circular saw (or plunge router or table saw) notch out a small rectangle in the lower corner of your panel. You will need two of these and they should mirror eachother. If your plywood or mdf has a face side to it, you will want to pay attention to that so that you have the corner notched out of what will be the front facing section of your side panel.

Attach your kick plate and upper front support using your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ material and your 1″ pocket hole screws and glue. Place your pocket holes on the inside so they aren’t seen, and set your kick plate to be flush with the front facing edge of your notch and will sit inside of your side panels. The upper support will sit 1/2″ back from the front edge.

Attach your back supports using your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ material and your 1″ pocket hole screws and glue. Both supports will sit flush with the back edge of the side panels. You can place your pocket holes on the backside facing outward since they will be covered in a later step.

Fasten your bottom in place using your nail gun and 1 1/4″ brad nails or your countersink bit with 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue.

Cut your shelf to size and place pocket holes along the bottom of it. Use your Kreg Jig set for 1/2″ material and your 1″ pocket hole screws and glue to attach approximately 10 1/2″ from the top edge of your side panels. This is a bit subjective so you can place this shelf anywhere it makes sense to you as long as it sits 1/2″ back from the front edge of your side panels.

Fasten the range board in place using your nail gun and 1″ brad nails and glue. You can use 1″ wood screws and your countersink bit or simply glue this in place if neither of the previous options work for you. This will sit flush with the top edge of your side panels.

Cut your oven door to size and cut out the center opening. If you would like to attach acrylic to the inside of this, a thin panel that is slightly larger than the opening should work just fine and can be screwed in place using small picture frame screws or something no longer than 1/2″. Hang your oven door as you would a cabinet door with your hinges along one side (right or left) and follow manufacturer instructions to do this. You should leave 1/8″ all the way around for easy opening and closing.

Fasten the top in place using 1 1/4″ brad nails and glue or 1 1/4″ screws if necessary. The top will sit flush on all 4 sides.

Attach the back using 1 1/4″ brad nails or 1 1/4″ wood screws and glue.

Now for the pretty stuff! Finish as desired and attach your burner knobs, grates and add your drawer pull and voila! donzo!

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!

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