If you need organization and strong good looks to go with your heavy dose of spring cleaning, this hall tree plan is just the thing! A matching bench will follow so you can put your feet up while you take your shoes off. Oh how I love high function pieces.
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, you can include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
$150-$200
- 12 – 1×3 at 6′
- 2 – 1×4 at 6′
- 6 – 2×3 at 8′
- 1 – 2×6 at 6′
- 5/8″ Wood Screws (can also use finish or brad nails)
- 1-1/4″ Wood Screws (can also use finish or brad nails)
- 2 1/2″ Wood Screw (can also use finish or brad nails)
- Assortment of Wood Screws
- Set of 4 – 10″ Metal Mending Straps
- Set of 4 – 12″ Metal Mending Straps
- Coat Hooks (I love these and also these for a more modern look)
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- Clamps
- Safety Gear
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- Anti-Tip Kit
- 4- 2×3 at 73″ Legs
- 4 – 2×3 at 14″ Feet
- 4 – 2×3 at 11 1/2″ Feet
- 2 – 2×3 at 5 1/4″ Feet
- 2 – 2×3 at 5 3/4″ Feet
- 2 – 2×3 at 16″ Shelf Supports
- 2 – 2×3 at 13″ Shelf Supports
- 2 – 2×6 at 15 1/2″ Curved Feet
- 2 – 1×4 at 69 1/2″ Rails
- 2 – 1×3 at 56 1/2″ Back Shelf Piece
- 10 – 1×3 at 65 1/2″ Shelf Boards and Cleat
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
You will build two of these leg units that mirror each other. For the leg unit not shown above, you will place the leg and shorter foot piece on the left. To secure, simply glue and nail or screw the pieces in place as shown, using 2 1/2″ fasteners. If using screws to secure, be sure to countersink and pre-drill so that your screw heads sit flush or slightly below the face of your boards. Clamp and let the glue set up before moving on.
Create a curved leg piece by cutting out a shape that is similar to the one above, using your jig saw. You will need two of these.
The important part of your curved leg shape is to be sure the section shown on the right side of this diagram, in gray, is exactly the same as you see here and is in fact 3″ x 2 1/2″ in size. This will need to sit and fit correctly with your other foot pieces. Everything beyond that can have any curvature you prefer as long as it doesn’t extend beyond the back of your hall tree. This foot piece will sit with the 3 inch x 2 1/2 inch section at floor level. To view this piece in place see the diagram below.
You will be doing the same thing to your second leg unit, as is shown above, only it will fasten together in mirror image (on the opposite side). Cut the Shelf Supports to size and then sand or cut away a curve at one edge of your board as shown above. This is optional, but will allow for a less blunt edge sticking out from your shelves which is both pleasing to the eye and a bit less threatening to the eye as well (we don’t want you to lose an eye from hanging up your jackets). Attach your supports 3/4 inch from the top and 14 inches below that using glue and your 2 1/2″ screws or nails. Clamp and let your glue set up.
Your curved foot piece will attach as shown with two additional foot pieces resting in front and behind your 3 inch by 2 1/2 inch section. Glue all three pieces to the leg and the adjacent foot pieces and screw or nail in place using 2 1/2″ screws or nails. Clamp while you let your glue set up.
Create the inner structure as shown above, with the exception of the foot piece, prior to fastening it in place (it is shown above already fastened in place). This will allow you to fasten your horizontal pieces to your legs and then hide your connections when you fasten the unit to the existing leg units.
Fasten your back shelf pieces to your legs, using glue and 1 1/4″ screws or nails, then fasten this unit to your shelf supports and foot pieces in the same manner using your 2 1/2″ screws or nails. You can then secure the remaining foot pieces as shown above, also using your 2 1/2″ screws or nails.
Fasten your cleat to the back edge of your hall tree, using glue and 1 1/4″ screws or nails. Secure your last remaining foot piece by gluing and securing it to your existing foot pieces, in the same manner but with your 2 1/2″ screws or nails.
When you are finished with your hall tree, entirely, this cleat will be how you secure it to your wall so that it does not tip over. This is pretty important and not a feature that seems to be included in the original inspiration piece… allegedly.
To create your shelves, you will simply lay out your boards with 1/4″ spacing and secure your mending straps to what will be the bottom. Use your 5/8″ screws and note that the top shelf has one more board than the lower shelf and you are viewing the shelves from the bottom in the image above. Space your mending straps approximately how you see them above. The exact placement is not critical so long as you are sure they are spaced apart, do not sit in the location where the shelf supports will rest (the outside 3 inches on either side each shelf) and that they support the center of your shelves. Something similar to what you see in the diagram above is perfect.
Flip your shelves over and attach in place using 1 1/4″ screws or nails in a couple of places, securing from the top of your shelves, down into your shelf supports. If you plan to use screws, pre-drill with a countersink bit so your screws sit flush and can be covered up if preferred.
All that is left is to secure your rails to your hall tree. You can attach your coat hooks first if you prefer, I simply suggest that if you go this route, you note the location of the legs and steer clear of that when attaching your hooks. Attach your rails to the legs using 2 1/2″ screws or nails.
Once you are ready, secure to your wall using 2 1/2″ screws fastened into your cleat.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired.
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