Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crate and Barrel Inspired Village Black Armless Bench. Simple lines, beautiful features, this bench has it all... Xx.. Rayan

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18” – Lower Back Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Upper Back Legs
  • 1 – 1x2 at 35-3/4” – Back Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x3 at 35-3/4” – Lower Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 39-3/4” – Upper Back
  • 11 – 1x2 at 14” – Back Slats
  • 2 – 2x2 at 17-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 16-1/2” – Upper Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17-1/2” – Seat Supports
  • 2 – 1x2 at approximately 17-3/16” – Lower Side Stretchers (Cut these pieces after the chair is assembled)
  • 1 – 1x2 at 36-3/4” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 38-3/4” - Seat
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower back legs. Cut the tapers using a jigsaw or tapering jig on a table saw. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of the lower back legs. Note there will be a right and a left leg. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back edge of the upper legs. Assemble the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and the upper back. Cut the angle in each end of the upper back noting that it is not a 45 degree angle. Drill pocket holes in each end of the back stretcher as well as the lower back stretcher. Position the 1x2 back stretcher as shown and secure to the upper back legs using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretcher will be flush with the front face of the upper legs. Position the lower stretcher ¼” back from the outside edge of the legs and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the slats and cut a 5 degree bevel in the top edge of each slat slanting toward the back. Drill pocket holes in each then secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretcher. Cut the tapers in the front legs in the same manner as the back legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher then secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the upper side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front and back legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the stretchers ¼” back from the outside edge of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers. The length and angle of the side stretchers will depend on the angle of the legs as well as the measurement between them. Clamp a 1x2 piece to the legs at the position of the lower stretcher and draw a line along the angles. Cut with the saw of your choice, then drill pocket holes in each end. Position the stretchers so they are located ¼” back from the outside face then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center lower stretcher and drill pocket holes at each end. Position it in the center of the lower side stretchers then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the seat and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Apply the edge banding, if desired. Position the seat on the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image

This project was hard. The End. But this portion I am sharing with you today, was not hard. This version is simple and you can finish this project in a day which will be mainly dry time. It turned out so fabulously that I am fairly certain I will repeat it a few more times! Next time it will be so much easier to do, since I feel like I truly figured out the process this go around, and perfected it. Now you guys can do this too and can skip the 17 versions I completed that didn't work, not even a little bit... yay for that!

painter's tape, scotchblue painter's tape, tape

This project is part of an amazing blog hop brought to you by ScotchBlue™ Painter's Tape and The Home Depot, you can find that fabulousness here at Ready, Set, Paint Blog Hop, and more info at the bottom of this post, yahoo... and also we have a GIVEAWAY! Yay! One of you fabulous friends will walk away with a $75 The Home Depot Gift Card! Woot Woot.. Let's get this party started with a little DIY fun! Then on to the giveaway and bloggity hop!

Materials:

  • ScotchBlue™ Painter's Tape
  • Concrete Resurfacer 
  • Universal Mixer Attachment for your Drill
  • Bucket
  • Masonry Brush
  • Trowel 
  • 12" Concrete Tube Form at 48"
  • Paint in a color of your choice
  • Water Seal (optional)
  • Jig Saw or Circular Saw
  • Large Drill Bit
  • 3/4" plywood at 24"x24"
  • 3/4" self tapping screws

I taped off my concrete tube form using ScotchBlue™ Painter's Tape at the 20" mark, from either end, so that I would have an easy to see guide for my table height. Then using a large drill bit, I drill pilot holes close to my tape lines so that I could start my jig saw with ease. Simply cut around the tape line on both sides to cut your form to size using a jig saw (easiest for me) or a circular saw if you prefer.

I traced around the inside of my concrete tube form to set my table top size appropriately, and then cut them out using my jig saw. 

I used self tapping screws to attach my top to the form sitting just inside the lip of the form. 

Mix your concrete resurfacer with water according to the instructions on the package. Use your handy dandy mixer attachment on a very low and slow speed to mix your material. You want to end up with a consistency that is something like really thick pancake batter for this to work how it should.

 

Use your Masonry Brush and paint on a thin layer of the concrete resurfacer. Once you have covered the base, use your trowel to cover the top (this is much easier than trying to use the brush for the top for some reason) and smooth a bit. 

Allow it to dry partially (about 70%) then sand smooth. Be careful not to sand off your thin layer of concrete. If you need to touch up, this is the time to do so while your material is still wet enough. If you want to add a thick layer of concrete, do this in steps with thin layers each time, and work your way up. If you layer too soon you will have that experience of accidentally wiping off your first layer as you attempt to add on to it. 

Allow your tables to completely cure for 24 hours or the recommended time on the package. Once dry you are ready to tape and paint! 

Be sure to choose a paint color with a bit of a sheen to help seal any unfinished edges on the tube form. This will also help the tables weather a bit better. Give the edges and the bottom inch of the underside a very good coat or two of your paint. 

I used a foam brush, since they grab quite a bit of paint, and used a stippling motion (pouncing) since the tables have quite a bit of texture. I worked my way around making sure to hit every single nook and cranny. I only did one coat, but I did a very good thick single coat. 

I like to remove my tape right away but this is a personal preference and not a requirement! For me it helps to know if I have made an error before I put my painting supplies away, so I 'check' my work early...

I would recommend a water seal spray of some sort if you live in a wet climate, just to be sure you don't have exposed cardboard around the bottom. Otherwise enjoy! 

Love, love, love these beauties and they are very light weight too! Easy to pick up and move around but sturdy enough for outdoor use! Though I'm thinking indoor use would be fabulous too. 

See another project from this blog-hop here: Centsational Girl - Textured Panel Dresser Makeover

 

Now who is ready for that giveaway I promised? You? Awesome! Enter using the form below!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

painter's tape, scotchblue painter's tape, tapepainter's tape, scotchblue painter's tape, tape

This post was brought to you in partnership with The Home Depot and ScotchBlue™ Painter's Tape.

Submitted by eier81 /
Project Image

I used 3 1x3s on the legs because I couldnt find a 2x3. The tabletop is plywood with 1x2s around the edge of the plywood, i then routed the edges of the 1x2's to get a nice edge. I accedentally cut 2 of the runners too short and had to use a 1/8 thick sheet of maple that I had from an inlay project to fill it in, look close you can see it :P

putting the pieces together, unfortunately I did not get any photos of me putting the top together with the 1x2s Sorry :(

Built From These Plans: 
Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Cheswick Coffee Table
Estimated Cost: 

$150, Including the Kreg Jig and screws and all supplies related.

Length of Time: 

Procrastination. Took about a 2 short days to build all but the top. a month to think about it. and a few hours to put the top on with the 1x2's

Modifications: 

I used an Oak Dowel in the legs to attach the 1 1x3 to the other 2 1x3's to make it look like wood. rather than screwing and putting wood filler, knowing that wood filler would stain differently.

Lumber Used: 

Red Oak. from Lowes.

Finishing Technique: 

Stain, Dark Walnut

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans, teaching you How to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Sawhorse Console Table! I think I have a slight obsession with sawhorse tables of any variety... am I alone on that one? Or do you guys love them too? Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 6 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x6 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 2 sets of non-mortise hinges
  • 4 – 1” metal straps approx. 18” long
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 1x2 at 22” – X
  • 8 – 1x2 at 10-1/2” – X
  • 4 – 1x3 at 13-1/2” – Sawhorse Side Frame
  • 4 – 1x3 at 16-1/2” – Sawhorse Side Frame
  • 8 – 1x2 at 27-1/2 – Sawhorse Legs
  • 3 – 2x6 at 84” – Top
  • 7 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Top Supports
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the X. Cut the angles as shown noting that they are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble the X pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the sawhorse side frames. Drill pocket holes in each end of the lower 1x3 frame pieces as well as the top edge of each leg. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Install the hinges at the top of the sawhorses. Cut the metal straps to length and drill a hole in each end. Secure to the sides with 1-1/4” screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble the top using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the top supports and position them as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

The top will rest on the sawhorses with the sawhorses located between the two supports that are located closest together.

Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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