Giveaway: $75 Giftcard for Qlineshop Eco Friendly Wood Finishing Oils

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It's no secret that as avid DIY'ers and woodworkers, we need finishing products. I mean, it's only natural, am I right? I'm pretty excited to launch this giveaway for one of you to win a $75 gift card for Eco Friendly Wood Finishing Products, and here is why... First and foremost, the eco friendly aspect is always a crowd pleaser, there is no doubt about it. But it's really the type of finishing products that this company provides that has me excited... Tung and Linseed Oil, and amazing Solo or Combo acts (Uno and Secondo or Brio) of items that are comprised of vegetable oils and natural resins. What this means is that they color, seal, and can even waterproof your wood, without covering the natural grain and to a hardness that provides amazing resistance! If you have kiddos, and you will be working with heavily trafficked pieces, this is likely a fabulous solution for you. I will be giving this stuff a good test run when I build my new kitchen table next month, yahoo.  

Ok enough chatter, feel free to enter the giveaway, simply fill out the registration form here. A winner will be drawn at random from among the entries! 

Prize: $75 Gift Card, open to US Residents (very sorry my lovely global friends).

Giveaway: Winner will be chosen April 22 from amongst the entries! 

Enter: Click here to fill out the entry form! 

The Changing of the Faucets

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This post brought to you by Moen, Incorporated. All opinions are 100% mine.

This is a bit like the changing of the seasons... out with the old seemingly beautiful shiny polished Moen faucet and in with the new - who even knew it could be so beautiful - Kiran Spot Resist one-handle pulldown kitchen faucet in brushed finish with a no spot no fingerprint promise, Moen faucet! This beauty can be purchased at Lowe's if you want to rid yourself of spots for good! Head over to Moen's FB page and Like them to thank them for making life with children, and people in general, a little bit easier...

So there was absolutely nothing wrong with our previous faucet, nothing at all... but... here's the thing, do you guys have kids, a husband, hands? Ya me too so consider for a minute that it likely means you are constantly wiping something down, because it's gunky and spotty, and you don't even know how irritating that task has become until it's gone and you no longer have to do it. 

When I say there was nothing wrong with my previous faucet, what I mean is that it already had many of the bells and whistles this new faucet has: it was Moen, which of course is fabulous, had a pull out sprayer and could toggle between spray and flow as needed. But it was shiny, and I never knew how much I disliked shiny and all that comes (read...constant spottiness) with that until I had something that wasn't. I can't actually describe to you what the finish is like other than to say it very closely resembles brushed nickel, only it's velvety (yes that's a word, I'm sure of it...)

Now the install wasn't too difficult, once I figured out that part (A) was actually a tool and not a part that needed to be attached to something else (see that gray plastic 'tube like' item in the image above). Yes, true story. I know, duh. There weren't even very many parts, which always makes a project seem fast and easy. But the initial uninstall, if you will, was horrendous. Literally just awful. And honestly the major difficulty was my height. Ugh. You see I am not officially tall enough or I don't have long enough arms to easily sit under the sink and reach the contraption that I needed to unscrew with the wrench that didn't really fit. I recommend a basin wrench to make the removal easier and to help with this problem. I found this out several hours and 4 letter words later. 

I waived the white flag and my hand hubby helped me with this step...the rest was cake, truly. Right up until we had to figure out which way we wanted the hot water to 'go' and had to make a decision on that. Otherwise friends, this was much easier than I expected when I pulled the mess of tubes from the box. It looked scary to me at first and probably would again if I had to do this a second time. At least I know now, how to 'undo' things. 

It was a tad hard for me to tighten the sprayer that pulls down from the faucet onto the tubing it connects to so that the plastic inside wouldn't show. But otherwise the remainder of this install was smooth like butter. I have to remove a bit of build up from the where the previous faceplate sat, since the shape of the new faceplate isn't precisely the same, but seriously that seems like a good idea anyhow, yuck. 

This faucet is beautiful. The end. No joke. 

A big thank you to Moen for challenging me to gain a new skill It wasn't as easy as it might have been if I were 5'7", but I learned some new variations on those age old 4 letter words and gained a bit of insight on the world of plumbing and hardware! That is something that should stick with me for a while and I am glad of it. 

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Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Small Parsons Media Console

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Project Details

I really love the modern clean lines of this collection, makes it so versatile allowing it to blend with almost any existing decor and furnishings... LOVE that! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 - sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Door pulls
  • Magnetic catches for the doors
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 12” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 17” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 2x2 at 43” – Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 43” – Shelf
  • 2 – 1x3 at 15-1/2” – Inner Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 43” – Inner Frame
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 19-1/4” x 46” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 19-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 44-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 18-1/2” – Divider
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 22-15/16” – Doors

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the shelf. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.   Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the lower stretchers.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the inner frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces, as well as one long edge of each piece to attach the bottom. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the frame to the inside of the side frames and stretchers using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the inner frame will be flush with the bottom of the stretchers and side frames. (It will be 1” higher than the stretchers and side frames)

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the bottom and secure to the inner frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the bottom. The back edge of the bottom will be flush with the back of the base frame.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes as shown. Note that the divider is not centered in the cabinet, though it can be centered if desired. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides, back, and divider into the bottom.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the doors. Attach the hinges to the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the magnetic catches according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

DIY Salvaged Wood Lighting Project

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Is it just me or do any of you folks have those projects that haunt you... plague ridden with problems from the start? This was one of those projects for me, but luckily it was only because we were in the middle of a move and I didn't have the proper tools I truly needed to complete this project with ease. 

I can't stress how much the 'right' tools are the make and break of a project, the true determining factor of a project's ultimate success or utter failure, outside of the more obvious potential design flaws that are a definite possibility with some of my hair brained ideas. What can I say, I'm a dreamer, and some of my creative endeavors speak volumes to that fact. This was not one of those failed whimsical projects, but it could easily have gone more smoothly and so we shall just look at this as the crash test dummy to your quick and fast DIY project and count ourselves lucky that someone had to take the bullet on that one and that it wasn't you! Yahoo!

When Wayfair and Hometalk challenged me to create something using this bad boy, I actually jumped at the chance because a) it speaks to my inner Macgyver persona and b) I kind of needed a light fixture in my family room. Would you believe I didn't notice that there wasn't one when we moved in? Yep, I'm that gal.. the oblivious one sitting in the dark... in her own family room, eek!

The challenge also included the caveat that whichever item was chosen needed to be made over using one of three themes: black and white, rope, or geometric. I actually chose two of the three themes being geometric and black and white, and obviously took some liberty with the 'white' portion of that combo...

Anyhoo, would you like to know how to make one for yourself? Yes? Ok then read on my friends.. read on...

Materials:

  • 1 - 4x6 (Lumber) at 20" or so... (this can be to your desired height)
  • Saw (or you can have your lumber supply cut this to size for you)
  • Deran Lamp Shade
  • Lamp Kit
  • Drill
  • 11/16" Spade Bit
  • Sanding Supplies and Sander
  • Duct Tape (in color of your choice)
  • Paint

Cut your lamp base (lumber) to size and create an X shape, from corner to corner, to designate the center of the post. Using your spade bit, drill a hole into the center of the top of your post. 

Drill a second hole about 4 or 5" from the top on what will be the back of your lamp base.This will be the exit point for your cord.

 

Sand your base well and begin taping the cord from your lighting kit. You will want to work in small sections so the tape is manageable and I think it's easiest to work vertically with this so you aren't wrapping the tape for days on end. 

Once your length of cord is wrapped up in a pretty little package, so to speak, it's time to paint your base and wire your lamp! 

To paint with a nice looking wash that isn't too contrived seeming, first paint with a layer of water in the designated area then use a bit of watered down paint and layer until you achieve your desired result. You can see below that I didn't drown my lamp base, I simply gave it a minimal coating of water. I wanted a bit of gradation so as I layered I also varied the height of the paint.

When your paint has dried completely you can wire your lamp! This part was tricky and I used teasers to help me collect my wires and pull them out through the top. Once you pull them through, follow the directions on your lamp kit and they should go a bit like you see in the images below. 

  • 1. Pull through your base
  • 2. Thread through bottom portion that is supposed to screw into your existing lamp base (which in this case doesn't exist).
  • 3. Tie the wires into a fancy schmancy knot according to the kit
  • 4. Wrap designated wires around the appropriate screw (silver or gold) and secure.
  • 5. Fasten the part with the switch over the top of the wires, then lock down the gold cover on top. 

All that's left at this point is to add the bulb, test that baby out and add your lamp shade. Unless of course you want to alter your lamp shade, in which case I highly recommend you use fabric and cover rather than paint, but of course I didn't do that... womp, womp, womp. 

It turned out rather nicely, after 207 coats of paint for the shade, don't you think? 

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Emmerson Queen Bed

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Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Emmerson Queen Bed

Headboard, Footboard, and Sides can be stained in a striped pattern to mimic slats…

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • Two sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 4x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 15 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • One set of Bed Rail Brackets
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 4x4 at 46” – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 38” x 56” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 1x4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 56” – Headboard/Footboard Top
  • 2 – 4x4 at 15-1/2” – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 56” – Footboard Panel
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 81” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 77” – Slat Supports
  • 17 – 1x3 at 61-1/2” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Apply optional edge banding to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs  and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of thepanel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the footboard legs  and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the panel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and the slat support. Attach the slat supports to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws leaving 2” at each end for the bed hardware. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the slats. The slats will be spaced approximately 2-1/2” apart. Attach to the supports using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue! The slats may have to be removed at some point to take the bed apart!

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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