The Design Confidential | DIY + Design: Your Field Guide to a Well Designed Do It Yourself Lifestyle

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Small Parsons Media Console

04|13|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter

Project Details

I really love the modern clean lines of this collection, makes it so versatile allowing it to blend with almost any existing decor and furnishings... LOVE that! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink bit for drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

2 – 1x3 at 8’
4 – 2x2 at 8’
1 - sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
Edge banding for plywood, optional
2 sets of hinges
Door pulls
Magnetic catches for the doors
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 12” – Legs
4 – 2x2 at 17” – Side Frames
4 – 2x2 at 43” – Stretchers
1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 43” – Shelf
2 – 1x3 at 15-1/2” – Inner Frame
2 – 1x3 at 43” – Inner Frame
2 – ¾”plywood at 19-1/4” x 46” – Top & Bottom
2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 19-1/4” – Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 44-1/2” – Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 18-1/2” – Divider
2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 22-15/16” – Doors

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the shelf. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the lower stretchers.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the inner frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces, as well as one long edge of each piece to attach the bottom. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the frame to the inside of the side frames and stretchers using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the inner frame will be flush with the bottom of the stretchers and side frames. (It will be 1” higher than the stretchers and side frames)

Step 4

Cut the piece for the bottom and secure to the inner frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the bottom. The back edge of the bottom will be flush with the back of the base frame.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Attach to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes as shown. Note that the divider is not centered in the cabinet, though it can be centered if desired. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides, back, and divider into the bottom.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the doors. Attach the hinges to the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the magnetic catches according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments

DIY Salvaged Wood Lighting Project

04|12|13

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Is it just me or do any of you folks have those projects that haunt you... plague ridden with problems from the start? This was one of those projects for me, but luckily it was only because we were in the middle of a move and I didn't have the proper tools I truly needed to complete this project with ease.

I can't stress how much the 'right' tools are the make and break of a project, the true determining factor of a project's ultimate success or utter failure, outside of the more obvious potential design flaws that are a definite possibility with some of my hair brained ideas. What can I say, I'm a dreamer, and some of my creative endeavors speak volumes to that fact. This was not one of those failed whimsical projects, but it could easily have gone more smoothly and so we shall just look at this as the crash test dummy to your quick and fast DIY project and count ourselves lucky that someone had to take the bullet on that one and that it wasn't you! Yahoo!

When Wayfair and Hometalk challenged me to create something using this bad boy, I actually jumped at the chance because a) it speaks to my inner Macgyver persona and b) I kind of needed a light fixture in my family room. Would you believe I didn't notice that there wasn't one when we moved in? Yep, I'm that gal.. the oblivious one sitting in the dark... in her own family room, eek!

The challenge also included the caveat that whichever item was chosen needed to be made over using one of three themes: black and white, rope, or geometric. I actually chose two of the three themes being geometric and black and white, and obviously took some liberty with the 'white' portion of that combo...

Anyhoo, would you like to know how to make one for yourself? Yes? Ok then read on my friends.. read on...

Materials:

1 - 4x6 (Lumber) at 20" or so... (this can be to your desired height)
Saw (or you can have your lumber supply cut this to size for you)
Deran Lamp Shade
Lamp Kit
Drill
11/16" Spade Bit
Sanding Supplies and Sander
Duct Tape (in color of your choice)
Paint

Cut your lamp base (lumber) to size and create an X shape, from corner to corner, to designate the center of the post. Using your spade bit, drill a hole into the center of the top of your post.

Drill a second hole about 4 or 5" from the top on what will be the back of your lamp base.This will be the exit point for your cord.

Sand your base well and begin taping the cord from your lighting kit. You will want to work in small sections so the tape is manageable and I think it's easiest to work vertically with this so you aren't wrapping the tape for days on end.

Once your length of cord is wrapped up in a pretty little package, so to speak, it's time to paint your base and wire your lamp!

To paint with a nice looking wash that isn't too contrived seeming, first paint with a layer of water in the designated area then use a bit of watered down paint and layer until you achieve your desired result. You can see below that I didn't drown my lamp base, I simply gave it a minimal coating of water. I wanted a bit of gradation so as I layered I also varied the height of the paint.

When your paint has dried completely you can wire your lamp! This part was tricky and I used teasers to help me collect my wires and pull them out through the top. Once you pull them through, follow the directions on your lamp kit and they should go a bit like you see in the images below.

1. Pull through your base
2. Thread through bottom portion that is supposed to screw into your existing lamp base (which in this case doesn't exist).
3. Tie the wires into a fancy schmancy knot according to the kit
4. Wrap designated wires around the appropriate screw (silver or gold) and secure.
5. Fasten the part with the switch over the top of the wires, then lock down the gold cover on top.

All that's left at this point is to add the bulb, test that baby out and add your lamp shade. Unless of course you want to alter your lamp shade, in which case I highly recommend you use fabric and cover rather than paint, but of course I didn't do that... womp, womp, womp.

It turned out rather nicely, after 207 coats of paint for the shade, don't you think?

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Emmerson Queen Bed

04|11|13

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Emmerson Queen Bed

Headboard, Footboard, and Sides can be stained in a striped pattern to mimic slats…

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink bit for drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer

Lumber

Two sheets of ¾” plywood
2 – 4x4 at 6’
2 – 1x2 at 6’
15 – 1x3 at 6’
2 – 1x4 at 6’

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
One set of Bed Rail Brackets
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 4x4 at 46” – Headboard Legs
1 – ¾” plywood at 38” x 56” – Headboard Panel
2 – 1x4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 56” – Headboard/Footboard Top
2 – 4x4 at 15-1/2” – Footboard Legs
1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 56” – Footboard Panel
2 – ¾” plywood at 81” – Sides
2 – 1x2 at 77” – Slat Supports
17 – 1x3 at 61-1/2” - Slats

Instructions

Step 1

Apply optional edge banding to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of thepanel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the footboard legs and panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the panel. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Attach to the panel and legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and the slat support. Attach the slat supports to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws leaving 2” at each end for the bed hardware. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the slats. The slats will be spaced approximately 2-1/2” apart. Attach to the supports using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue! The slats may have to be removed at some point to take the bed apart!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Currently Crushing On: Boucherouite Rugs

04|10|13

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

I have always been drawn to a fabulously done boho chic space. I have never been able to reproduce this look in my own home. Mainly for a simple lack of trying or at least because of some sort of brain malfunction which always tends to occur... which just seems ironic. I shop, I see, I love items of a whimsical, irregular, handmade quality...but when I pull the trigger to purchase, I always without doubt choose the item that is new, symmetrical, and more neutral in colorway...

I have no idea why this is, but I can tell you that these Boucherouite Rugs spark a newfound excitement for me in the irregular handmade, textural, multicolored fabulousness that embodies these beautiful Berber creations. I WILL be successful this time around... as soon as I actually purchase one...maybe.

There is no doubt about the current popularity of multi-cultural creations in all their various forms, and I for one am dying to embrace it and bring this vibe into my home once and for all! Or at least until I tire of it in 6 months time. After all I am like a child when it comes to attention span. In other words, I have none...

What do you think? Can you embrace this handmade multi-colored pattern making trend? Are you secretly a bit bohemian and yet constantly living in a modern space?

Sources

Via

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8

Via

Inspiration via Decor8

Comments

Roundup: 4 Fabulous Hand Lettered Fonts

04|08|13

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Hand lettering is all the rage, and all the cool kids are doing it! My little heart skips a beat when I see a beautiful hand lettered image on someone's blog or a graphic piece of hand lettered art or stationary. But you guys... even with all of the digital fabulousness in our lives these days (font making apps, graphics programs) it's hard to reproduce this look by hand! Seriously hard.. I tried.

Luckily, some of the masters of this craft have created digital versions for all of us 'less than talented' hand lettering peons! Can I get a yahoo? There are quite literally hundreds of script like fonts available for free, but that is not what this post is about. No... You see those fonts don't have the modern edginess and seeming irregularity that this fresh take on the style offers.

Yes, you will have to pay to purchase these beauties, but if you are like me, and you feel that pitter patter each time you catch a glimpse, this is a small price to pay to satisfy the graphic design gods and let your inner artist shine through. Did I mention how I LOVE this look? Ya, figures... but seriously, I do!