The Design Confidential | DIY + Design: Your Field Guide to a Well Designed Do It Yourself Lifestyle

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Farmhouse Bed

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free Plans to Build a gorgeous Farmhouse Bed! A simple build with sturdy lines and amazing style! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer

Lumber

2 – 3x3 at 8’
7 – 2x3 at 8’
4 – 1x4 at 6’
16 – 1x3 at 6’
2 – 1x2 at 8’
2 sheets of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
1-1/4” screws
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 3x3 at 48-1/2” – Headboard Legs
3 – 2x3 at 60-1/2” – Headboard Panel & Stretcher
1 – ¾” plywood at 29” x 60-1/2” – Headboard Panel
2 – 1x4 (ripped to 3” wide) at 66-1/2” – Headboard & Footboard Trim
2 – 1x4 at 67-1/2” – Headboard & Footboard Trim
2 – 3x3 at 19-1/2” – Footboard Legs
2 – 2x3 at 60-1/2” – Footboard Panel
1 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 60-1/2” – Footboard Panel
4 – 2x3 at 79-1/2” – Sides
2 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 79-1/2” – Side Panels
2 – 1x2 at 79-1/2 – Slat Supports
1 – 2x2 at 79-1/2” – Center Support
2 – 2x2 at 7” – Center Support
16 – 1x3 at 60-1/2” - Slats

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs. Cut the angle as shown using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

Cut the pieces for the headboard panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2x3 pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Insert the plywood panel and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the legs and 2x3 pieces.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the headboard trim. The front and sides of each trim piece will overlap by ½”. Secure each piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the footboard legs. Cut the angle as shown using a jigsaw or a bandsaw.

Cut the pieces for the footboard panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2x3 pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Insert the plywood panel and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the legs and 2x3 pieces.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the footboard trim. The front and sides of each trim piece will overlap by ½”. Secure each piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood panel. Attach the 2x3s to the plywood using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the 2x3 pieces.

Attach the slat support using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the slat supports will be flush with the bottom of the sides.

Secure the sides to the legs as shown using 2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue – the bed may need to be disassembled (plus it has to fit through the door!).

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the center support. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer support, as well as one end of each leg piece. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Attach to the center of the headboard stretcher and footboard using 2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue!

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the slats. Position them, evenly spaced, and secure using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments

My Week in Pictures March 22 2013

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

This has been an awfully tough week here at the House of TDC. My grandma passed away Wednesday evening and this loss has rocked my world in ways I can't even put words to. The picture of her in the middle of this collage was taken the night before her passing, and might be one of the best photographs she has ever taken. How lucky we are to have it.

I realize that I have been relatively silent about some of the personal stuff surrounding this and going on in the background here, but in all honesty I haven't really known how to talk about it. My grandma was a mother figure in my life and we were extremely close. More than I can explain, really. My Monster Mash boy was adored her and she loved him like the son she never had (she has two daughters). Even though he was technically her great grandson, you would never guess that extra generational gap existed.

There is an important story to tell of this last year of her life, and one that might help others in the future, but I'm simply not able to write this today. In a couple of hours we will be gathering as a family to clear her belongings from her room and I'm honestly not sure how this will be. It certainly makes things final... I'm not sure I will handle that well. I'm really struggling and this will be along road of healing. Things may be spotty around here for the next few weeks, but putting my head into work and my boys is a wonderful distraction. Nothing would make her happier than to know I was spoiling my boys rotten with love and attention, so I plan to honor her and celebrate her, by doing exactly that.

I hope you all have a wonderful Easter Weekend and I hope to share her story with you soon. It's important and my telling it might be a very small catalyst to bringing some much needed awareness to a very important subject. It's a story I will need to tell as soon as the wound isn't so fresh.

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Adjustable Twin to Full Bed

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Adjustable Twin to Full Bed! You guys are going to flip your lid over this project!!! Xx...Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig

Lumber

4 – 1x2 at 8’
7 – 1x3 at 8’
4 – 2x2 at 8’
1 – sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
2-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
Edge banding for plywood, optional
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

3 – 2x2 at 36” – Headboard Legs
1 – 1x2 at 32” – Headboard Frame
1 – 2x2 at 32” – Headboard Frame
1 – ¾” plywood at 25-3/4” x 32” – Headboard Panel
2 – 2x2 at 16-3/4” – Stops for Adjustable Panel
1 – 1x2 at 17-1/2” – Adjustable Headboard Brace
2 – 1x2 at 20-1/2” – Adjustable Headboard Frame
1 – 2x2 at 25-3/4” – Adjustable Headboard Frame
1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 25-3/4” – Adjustable Headboard Panel
3 – 2x2 at 18” – Footboard Legs
1 – 1x2 at 32” – Footboard Frame
1 – 2x2 at 32” – Footboard Frame
1 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 32” – Footboard Panel
1 – 2x2 at 16-3/4” – Adjustable Footboard Stop
1 – 1x2 at 17-1/2” – Adjustable Footboard Brace
2 – 1x2 at 20-1/2” – Adjustable Footboard Frame
1 – 2x2 at 7-3/4” – Adjustable Footboard Panel
1 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 20-1/2” – Adjustable Footboard Panel
2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 76” – Sides
2 – 1x2 at 74-1/2” – Slat Supports
15 – 1x3 at 39-1/2” (for twin) or 54-1/2” (for full) - Slats

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the headboard. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 piece and the 2x2 piece, as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Assemble as shown using glue and pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the adjustable headboard stops and brace. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each piece. Position as shown then secure using glue and pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the adjustable headboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x2 piece. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Place the adjustable headboard on the brace and secure in place as shown with a few countersunk screws through the brace into the adjustable piece.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the footboard. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 piece and the 2x2 piece, as well as all four edges of the plywood panel. Assemble as shown using glue and pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the adjustable headboard stops and brace. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each piece. Position as shown then secure using glue and pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the adjustable footboard. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x2 piece. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Place the adjustable footboard on the brace and secure in place as shown with a few countersunk screws through the brace into the adjustable piece.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut the notch using a jigsaw. Note that one side of the notch is longer than the other side. Because of the way the headboard and the footboard sit, there will be no left and right so when drilling the pocket holes, refer to the drawing and drill in the position shown. Attach to the headboard and footboard using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. DO NOT use glue!

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the slat supports. Secure to the bottom of the sides using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Cut the pieces for the slats – 39-1/2” long for a twin bed or 54-1/2” long for a full bed. There is a 1” space between the slats. Secure to the supports using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. DO NOT use glue!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments

Builders Showcase: Coreys Farmhouse Tallboy Dresser

Submitted by Corey_Smiley /

I just finished building this farmhouse dresser and am so happy with it. i wanted to make it look old so i distressed it using various tools and this video was great help http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Iotye7dvAQ I used the tea and vinegar stain at first but it didnt come out exactly what I had wanted so to fix this i just rubbed some oil based chocolate coloured stain over top. It came out a but darker than I had originally wanted but am still pleased with it.

Built From These Plans:

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Farmhouse Tallboy Dresser

Estimated Cost:

$200ish

Length of Time:

It took about 5 or 6 weeks start to finish but I mostly worked on it during the weekend.

Lumber Used:

All of it was pine except for the side panels and inside the drawers were spruce plywood. The top i used rough pine to give it a little extra character.

Finishing Technique:

Tea and vinegar stain then 1 coat of chocolate stain with 2 coats of satin poly.

Comments

Choosing Fabric for Fab Window Treatments

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

We spoke not that long ago about the difficulty I'm having in finding window treatments for my Master Bedroom... window treatments that I love, and that aren't ho hum.... The hunt continues and has actually only become more of an issue in the new house since the master now has double the number of windows, eek! Nothing ready-made is quite what I am looking for, and I am at a loss for a fabric painted creation that I might come up with for this particular room's design plan.

Now luckily the window treatments are only for 'decoration' if you will, since I already have blinds in this space. Which is quite frankly exactly the way I prefer things... I like blinds for controlling light (which I crave) and window treatments to anchor my space, which is definitely why the choice is so important. It's like choosing a sofa for your family room, or perhaps even like choosing a rug. They will set the tone for every other single thing that lives here, and will be very likely one of the first things a person (including me) sees the moment they enter this space...crucial, am I right? You guys I can't screw this up.

I have decided the solution will be fabric that is hemmed into the proper sizing to outfit my windows. Now I can move onto the 8 million options for fabric that are out there, double eek. Above are a few of my favorite options from Spoonflower and all of those talented artists within that venue! They range from whimsical to retro with a bit of bold graphic pattern in between.

Perhaps you fine folks have some lovely opinions or are having a similarly tough time make a design decision in your lives? Believe me, I relate. But I'm realy for this saga to end...

Sources

Each of the fabric swatches above can be purchased through Spoonflower and can be found on my 'favorites page'. There are so many beauties and a few fun ones as well.

1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18

Comments