Jul
23
2010
Project Image
Project Details

This collection is really fun, and easy to build. Perfect for a low cost build with a ton of style!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Saw ** Miter Saw or Miter Box and Hand Saw - Optional for mitering the bottom and outside edges of the Legs, Bases, and Outside Cross Bars.
  • ** Kreg Jig - Optional, and can be built without one, but will have a few tricky attachments for this project and as is the case with most projects, would definitely benefit from using one.
Lumber
  • 1 Sheet - 3/4" Plywood (my lumber supply sells 2' x 4' sheets for around 1/3 of the cost of an entire 4' x 8' sheet, check to see if yours will do this for you and you will reduce your cost quite a bit and you won't have a lot of excess)
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 10'
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 6'
  • If mitering you will need: 1 - 2x3 @ 10' OR 1 - 2x3 @ 8' If you aren't mitering: 2 - 2x3 @ 8'
Materials
  • **Kreg Jig Owners: 1 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws.
  • 3" Screws - ** Kreg Owners will not need this item and will use the 1 1/2" PHS in place of this.
  • 2 1/2" Screws
  • 1 1/4" Screws
  • 2" Finish Nails (you can also use the 1 1/4" Screws for the table trim if you prefer not to buy this or don't have a finish nail gun)
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

**Note: I am providing 2 cut measurements for a few pieces that have the option of being mitered.

  • 6 - 2x3 @ 18 1/2" (Legs)
  • 3 - 2x3 @ 19" (Bases and Center Cross Bar) ** you will change 2 of these 3 above to 22" (Bases) if mitering.
  • 2 - 2x3 @ 6 1/2" (Outside Cross Bars) ** this will become 8" if mitering.
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 22" (Sides of the Frame)
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 37" (Front and Back of the Frame)
  • 1 - 3/4" Plywood @ 40"x22" (Table Top)
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 41 1/2" (Table Trim)
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 22" (Table Trim) ** this will become 23 1/2" if mitering
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Attach the Center Legs to their Bases and attach the Center Cross Bar: Use 3" Screws. ** You can miter the edges of the Legs and Base pieces for a more polished appearance and so that you attach from underneath (this is helpful if you aren't using a Kreg Jig so that you can hide your screws), but this is not entirely necessary and as you can see below looks just fine without mitered edges. Without mitered Leg/Base, and with mitered Leg/Base, respectively:

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Attach the Outside Cross Bars: if you are planning on mitering the leg/base connections, you will want to miter the outside edge of these before you attach them in this step (they will also be a tad longer if you are mitering, see cut list above). This is the trickiest portion of this plan if you aren't using a Kreg Jig. You will need to attach the Outside Cross Bars to the Bases by fastening them from a spot near the circle shown in the diagram below. You will fasten from the outside edges of each Cross Bar, inward at an angle into your Base (forming an X shape with your screws when they are both fastened).

Step 2
Step 3

Attach the Outside Legs: Use 3" Screws if you are going to fasten them as shown below. You can also miter the bottom of the Legs, in which case a 2 1/2" Screw will be more appropriate. Kreg Jig Owners, use your trusty 1 1/2" PHS.

Step 3
Step 4

Build your Table Frame: Use your Pocket Hole system to fasten the frame pieces to each other and then attach to each leg using 2 1/2" Screws. Otherwise, attach the frame pieces together using 2 1/2" Screws and then fasten to the Legs. This frame serves the purpose of providing something to attach your table top to, so that you won't have to make visible holes in it.

Step 4
Step 5

Attach your Table Top: Use 1 1/4" Screws and fasten to the frame from underneath, all the way around. No visible screw holes...

Step 5
Step 6

Trim out the Table Top: Use 2" Finish Nails to attach, or if you have trouble with this (because you don't have a finish nail gun and doing it by hand is hard) you can also use your 1 1/4" Screws, just be strategic in where you place them and how many you use along each edge. ** Optional - for a very polished appearance you can miter the corners of your trim pieces. Without mitered trim, and with mitered tr:m, respectively:

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
20
2010
Project Image
Project Details

This plan is inspired by the Viva Terra Vintage Fir Platform Bed and is so easy to build. If you are afraid to give building a try, this is a project you can handle, it is just so simple. I have had such a wonderful response from this plan, that I will be providing it in different bed sizes throughout the week. Stay tuned...

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Saw
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig
Lumber
  • 5 - 2x8 at 8'
  • 2 - 2x8 at 6'
  • 15 - 2x4 at 8'
  • 9 - 1x3 at 6'
  • 2 - 1x3 at 8' 
Materials
  • Kreg Owners: 2 1/2" pocket hole screws
  • 4" Screws
  • 3" Screws
  • 2 1/2" Screws
  • 2" Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler or a Paintable Silicone if you prefer
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 - 2x8 at 80 3/4" (Sides of Base Frame)
  • 2 - 2x8 at 66" (Head and Foot of Base Frame)
  • 2 - 2x8 at 80 1/2" (Sides of Perimeter)
  • 1 - 2x8 at 76" (Foot Perimeter)
  • 9 - 1x3 at 63" (Slats)
  • 2 - 1x3 at 80 3/4" (Cleats)
  • 1 - 2x4 at 80 3/4" (Center Joist)
  • 12 - 2x4 at 76" (Headboard)
  • 4 - 2x4 at 41 1/2" (Back Brace's)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build the Base Frame: Use 3" Screws and Wood Glue or your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to fasten the frame together. Attach the Cleats and Center Joist 1 1/2" from the top of the Frame edge and use 2" Screws and Glue. The Slats should be spaced about 4-6" apart, screw down using 1 1/4" Screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Attach the Bordering Platform: Use 4" Screws and Wood Glue. Leave a 5" overhang on the sides and foot of the bed. The Side Platform Boards should be flush with the head of the beds frame.

Step 2
Step 3

Create the Headboard: Use 12 - 2x4's and attach them using 4 - 2x4's on the back side. Use 2 1/2" Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the Headboard to the Frame and Platform Boards. **Use 4" Screws to attach the Headboard to the Frame AT the frame sides, so that the screws go through the head of the frame and into the side boards. ** Everywhere else you attach the headboard along the top of the frame, use 2 1/2" Screws. This headboard will be top heavy, so it should sit against a wall for extra support.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
15
2010
Project Image
Project Details

This desk is the perfect toddler size, and would work well with a little bench and cushion. This Storage Desk is designed mainly with paintable grade MDF and would look fabulous in just about any color! You can always substitute for wood as well, and it would be equally as incredible!

Showcase: Built From These Plans

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Sander - or a Sanding Block.
  • Saw - to cut your pieces to size.
  • Jig Saw - to create the arc (you can also cut out a rectangular shape if you prefer and avoid the Jig Saw)
  • Drill
  • Pneumatic Nailer (Nail Gun) or Finish Nail Set and Hammer.
Lumber
  • 1 - Sheet of 3/4" MDF @ 4' x 8'
  • 1 - 1x3 @ 8'
  • 3 - 1x2 @ 10'
Materials
  • 2" Coarse Thread Screws (particle or drywall screws)
  • 1 1/4" Finish Nails
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Spackle
  • Finishing Supplies

For easy purchasing of materials, consider Builddirect!

Cut List
  • 2 - 3/4" MDF at 25 1/4 x 13" (Sides Panels)
  • 1 - 3/4" MDF at 13 x 12 1/4" (Upper Divider)
  • 2 - 3/4" MDF at 22 1/2 x 12 1/4" (Shelf Bottoms)
  • 1 - 3/4" MDF at 12 1/4 x 11 1/2" (Bottom Divider)
  • 1 - 3/4" MDF at 22 1/2 x 25 1/4" (Back)
  • 1 - 3/4" MDF at 22 1/2 x 6 1/4" (Front Face Plate)
  • 1 - 3/4" MDF at 24 x 36" (Top)
  • 2 - 1x3 at 25 1/4" (Legs)
  • 1 - 1x3 at 25 1/2" (Top of Face Plate Trim)
  • 2 - 1x2 at 25 1/4" (Legs)
  • 2 - 1x2 at 36 3/4" (Front and Back Desk Top Trim)
  • 1 - 1x2 at 25 1/2" (Storage Unit Side Desk Top Trim)
  • 1 - 1x2 at 24" (Desk Top Right Side Trim)
  • 2 - 1x2 at 24 1/2" (Side Panel Trim)
  • 2 - 1x2 at 10" (Side Panel Trim)
  • 4 - 1x2 at 19 1/4" (Side Panel and Storage Front Trim)
  • 3 - 1x2 at 22 1/2" (Storage Front Trim)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Begin by cutting the arc in your Side Panels and Divider. You will need to stay within the measurements I have outlined in this diagrams, otherwise your arc shape is entirely up to you. Be sure to begin your arc 3/4" from the top and 1 1/2" from the side to allow for trim later. Sketch out and cut the first panel then use it as a template for the other 2. Once you have created your arc for all 3 pieces, remove 3/4" from the front and back of the Divider. This will allow for the Face Plate and the Back, later.

Step 1
Step 2

Construct your Bottom Shelf by attaching the Divider to the Shelf Bottom. Attach the Back to the side Panels, then attach the Bottom Shelf to the Back and Side Panels. Use 2" Screws and Glue.

Step 2
Step 3

Construct the Top Shelf in the same manner leaving a 3/4" space toward the front of the Divider to house the Face Plate later. Then attach the Shelf to the Back and Side Panels, use 2" Screws and Glue.

Step 3
Step 4

Create the Legs for the desk by forming an L Shape using a 1x3 (Orange) and a 1x2 (Dark Green). The 1x3's will face the front and back while the 1x2's will face out on the side. Attach the Legs to the Top and attach the Top to the Storage Unit. Fasten the Face Plate in place. Use 2" Screws and Glue.

Step 4
Step 5

Trim out the Desk Top and the Sides of the Storage Unit. Note the dimensions below since the left side of the Desk Top Trim is longer than the Right Side. This is for aesthetic reasons and allows for the top trim on the Storage unit to take center stage. Use Finish Nails and Glue.

Step 6

Trim out the Front of the Storage Unit and fasten the Top Face Plate Trim as well, use Finish Nails and Glue.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Kiddos 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
12
2010
Project Image

I've been building, building, and more building!  I should warn you that building is hard work.  It's fun and so completely satisfying...but between the building and the painting even my fingernails are sore.  Mainly from the painting, since I decided I really don't enjoy painting, and that spray paint might be the way to go...boy was I wrong!  Oh is it ever hard work spray painting, and you know...it actually takes longer to a certain extent.  Have I ever mentioned to you how impossible it is to get good coverage fast without creating drips...yes...almost impossible, for someone with my lack of patience. So, first up on the list of "recently checked off the to-do list" items is a fabulous low toddler activity table, for my monster mash of a boy.  Plans are here, and I am about to adjust them slightly since I was able to make it less expensively, and didn't lose any of the stability or sturdiness.  Mine is without the casters, since he is not quite ready for that in my opinion, and only has 2 cubbies since I was quite literally using scraps to build this (limited my options a tad).  The table top surface is a tad smaller as well (again limited by scrap remnants) but I am oh so happy with the result and so is my Mr. Blakey!

Length of Time 

Did I mention this took me less than an hour to throw together, and an extra 30 minutes for paint?  Yes well, if you look closely you can tell that I did this at 8:30 at night, and the lighting wasn't great, and neither was my level of effort or precision...but Blake can't tell, in fact he couldn't love it more if he tried and moved himself right on in!

Lumber Used 

To be honest, the cuts on this aren't straight, thanks to some mistakes my nearest Orange made on the measurements I gave them for the Storage Cubbies I was originally planning on building.  In fact they were so bad that I scrapped the whole plan, so to speak, and built this instead...so you can see in the image above that some of the boards don't line up perfectly and that I didn't even bother to sand or fix them.  

I think my actual dimensions ended up right around 2.5 x 3' for the surface and it still fits his race track, not to mention his entire body just fine!  My house is small and I feel like this coincidence actually worked out nicely.

 

Additional Project Details 

Below is another photo so you can see how it sits in the room where it lives! Perfectly underneath the Low Loft Bunk!

Jul
10
2010
Project Image
Project Details

These nightstands are fabulous for either side of your bed, but I think they would make super stylish end tables to flank your sofa as well!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Saw
  • Miter Saw
  • Kreg Jig
Lumber
  • 1 - 2x10 @ 10'
  • 1 - 2x10 @ 6'
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 6' (check for any scraps available in this before purchasing)
  • 1 - 1x2 @ 10'
  • 1 - 3/4" Plywood Sheet at 4'x8'
Materials
  • 2 1/2" Screws
  • 2" Screws
  • **1 1/4" Screw - optional for joining boards together.
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 - 2x10 @ 24" (Top and Bottom)
  • 4 - 2x10 @ 16 1/2" (Sides)
  • 1 - 1x6 @ 21" (Drawer Face)
  • 2 - 1x2 @ 21" (Base Frame)
  • 4 - 1x2 @ 13 1/2" (Base Frame)
  • 1 - 3/4" Ply @ 19 1/2 x 17" (Top of Drawer Casing)
  • 2 - 3/4" Ply @ 21 x 4 3/4" (Sides of Drawer Casing)
  • 1 - 3/4" Ply @ 21 x 17 3/4" (Bottom of Drawer Casing)
  • 1 - 3/4" Ply @ 19 1/2 x 16 1/4" (Drawer Bottom)
  • 2 - 3/4" Ply @ 16 1/4 x 3 1/4" (Drawer Sides)
  • 1 - 3/4" Ply @ 19 1/2 x 4" (Drawer Back)
  • **Optional: 1 - 3/4" Ply @ 15 1/2 x 3 1/4" (Drawer Front)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build the Frame for the Base: Use 2" Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 1
Step 2

Pair the 2x10's together, 2 per side, for all 4 sides and Bevel Cut the Edges at a 45° Angle (this is a miter along an edge rather than the length). Do this for both outside edges of each pair. ** After you have Bevel Cut your edges, Glue the Boards together. ** I have designed the Casing to actually fasten and hold the Boards in place for this project, however, you now have the option to either fasten them together using 1 1/4" screws from the edge of one board (on the inside or shorter side) up and into the adjacent board at an angle or if you own a Kreg Jig, then you can use that as well. This is not a necessary step, but is an option available to you.

Step 2
Step 3

Attach the top of the Drawer Casing to the bottom of the nightstand Top: Use 2" Screws and Wood Glue, fasten from the plywood side so that you don't have to fill screw holes.

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the Back and Sides of the Drawer Casing: Use 2" Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 4
Step 5

Attach what will be the bottom of the Drawer Casing (even though you are working upside down at the moment): Use 2" Screws and Wood Glue.

Step 5
Step 6

Attach the Sides to the Top and the Drawer Casing: Use 2" Screws and Wood Glue to fasten to the Drawer Casing and 2 1/2" Screws to fasten the sides to the top. The Drawer Casing will essentially hold the 2 boards. that make up each side, together. Do not attach the bottom yet.

Step 6
Step 7

Attach the Bottom to the Base Frame: Use 2 1/2" Screws and Wood Glue, fasten from underneath up through the frame and into the bottom of the nightstand. This will keep you from filling screw holes.

Step 7
Step 8

Attach the Sides and Bottom: Use 2 1/2" Screws and Wood Glue. Fasten from underneath to avoid screw holes.

Step 8
Step 9

Build the Drawer: Use 2" Screws and Wood Glue and notice how the pieces line up in the image below. You can fasten a drawer front to this as explained in the step below to keep from filling screw holes on the drawer face, but it will remove a bit of the depth from your drawer and is a tiny bit redundant. It is merely for aesthetic purposes, so I will leave this up to you. If you elect to do this step, the piece will measure 15 1/2 x 3 1/4" and sit right on top of the bottom and attach to the bottom and sides.

Step 9
Step 10

Attach the Drawer Face: Use 2" Screws and Wood Glue. If you don't want to fill screw holes, you can fasten a front to your drawer, just inside the front edges. then when you attach the drawer face you will fasten from inside the drawer front.

Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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