May
31
2011
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Do you have a blank wall in your home staring you in the face, begging you to take the reigns and do something about it? Instead of attempting to fill the space with one large object, try several...its' cheaper!

Your local Dollar or 99cent Stores sell frames of 8x10 size and smaller, in a wide variety of styles. Get your photo printer plugged in, and start printing. Once you have a small collection of prints ready for framing go and find several frames of the same style, or in the same color but different styles and in various sizes. If you can't find enough of the same color or same style (or if you like a bit more variety), pick 2 colors and purchase an approximately equal number of both. When you arrange them, try and balance them out equally, so that one color doesn't weigh more heavily in any one area than the other.

Note: If you plan to scatter your frames in an asymmetrical pattern along your wall or if you plan to lay them out in anything that is NOT a perfectly grid-like pattern (or even if a perfect grid is what you desire) - I offer you a strategy: Use a large piece of butcher paper or craft paper, of an approximately equal size to the area of concentration on your wall. Trace the approximate shape of the area in question onto the paper so you have some guidelines. Lay the paper out on your floor and arrange the frames on the paper, inside your guidelines, in any pattern that you like (this allows you to arrange and rearrange, without putting hundreds of tiny holes in your wall). Once you have them arranged on your paper perfectly, trace the outline of each frame with a pencil or pen. Remove the frames from the paper and place on an area of your floor in the approximate same pattern and order.

Tape your paper onto the area of your wall this arrangement will hang. Then begin hammering small nails or picture hanging apparatuses right through the paper in the appropriate area of each traced frame. Once you have all of your nails in place, carefully untape the paper and remove it, leaving the nails in the wall (the paper will rip around the nail heads). Now you are ready to hang those frames, and they should be sitting in relatively the same arrangement you will be placing them on the wall...no guesswork and easy as pie! Scattered throughout this article are a few patterns I drew up, feel free to use them or let them help you get your creative juices flowing for your own arrangements...Be creative, there are no right answers here! This is mainly about proportion and not so much about the arrangement itself. If it feels balanced to you, then that is all that matters!

DIY 
May
31
2011
Project Image

If you live in the Greater Sacramento Area, SMUD's Shade Tree program should definitely be taken advantage of. If you live outside of Sacramento, check with your local utility provider for a similar program and start digging!

If you visit their website you will find an array of trees to choose from and a phone number to call for an appointment. They will send someone out to evaluate your yard and designate the number of trees you may benefit from adding. You are able to choose from any on their site and they will help you understand which varieties might work best in certain areas of your yard given the sun, water and spacing requirements. Once you have chosen the appropriate number of trees your yard can accommodate, they will schedule a date and time for delivery and provide directions for planting. Make sure you invest in a decent pair of gloves and some ibuprofen because most of these trees require a 4'x4' hole with a pedestal in the center. The reward for your efforts is great however, and you will have many wonderful years to come with your tree filled backyard.

Some of my personal favorites include the Chinese Pistache tree, used in many shopping center landscapes for their wonderful stature and fabulous fall colors. I love the Eastern Redbud for its oversized heart shaped leaves, and of course the Birch tree. Any variety of Maple will be amazing year round, even when the leaves have gone, and anything in the Redwood or Sequoia family will provide great color and a privacy screen all year long in addition to some noise and wind reduction. Below is a link to their site… Happy Planting! SMUD TREE PROGRAM

DIY 
Outdoor 
May
31
2011
Project Image

Need gift ideas for Christmas? On a budget? WalMart sells these beautiful glass Christmas Tree Jars for around $5. Fill with a favorite - preferably colorful - candy and tie with a beautiful ribbon. This should cost you no more than $9 or $10 dollars, depending on the candy you choose, and whether or not you need to buy the ribbon. This lovely gift will be enjoyed year after year by your recipient, as they pull out their Christmas decor and contemplate the type of candy to fill it with.

WalMart sells peppermint, red and white striped, dinner mint "like" candy in bulk...very inexpensively. For my purposes, I chose a dark green wrappered 'mint truffle kiss' by Hershey, a light green wrappered Dove Chocolate candy, and a gold wrappered Lindor Truffle candy, and layered them. The colors are fabulous inside this glass jar and work well with my olive green sheer ribbon, but the cost was significantly higher than if I had used the original dinner mint candy I purchased.

RyTurner's picture

Gingerbread in a Decorative Tin

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Need another last minute, budget friendly gift idea? Try giving baked goods in a decorative tin. Many of the ingredients in cookies and cakes are everyday baking items... so with the exception of a few extra recipe specific ingredients, you can make something wonderful without breaking the bank.

I found Christmas themed decorative tin containers at my local WalMart, in many different shapes and sizes. Most of the tins cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $2 or $3 each. For this particular project I chose a 7.5" square tin with a snowman design.

I purchased disposable tin baking pans in the same size (7.5" squares-2 per pack) at my local dollar store, however most grocery and discount stores sell these as well.

Note: make sure that the size of your baking tin matches the size of your decorative tin, since leaving too much space around the edges of your baked goods might result in breakage, especially if this is something that will be mailed.

The recipe for gingerbread below will fill 2 - 7.5" baking tins or a typical 9x13" cake pan and will be loved by anyone you give this to!

Gingerbread Recipe:

Cook Time: 30-40 minutes (depending on the size of the cake tin, start low and add more time if necessary)

Ingredients:

  • 2 1/4 cups sifted all-purpose flour
  • 2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 2 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 2/3 cup butter
  • 2/3 cup vegetable shortening
  • 1 cup boiling water
  • 2/3 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
  • 1 cup molasses
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • 1 can of Fluffy White or Cream Cheese frosting

Sift dry ingredients and spices together. Boil the water, then add shortening and butter to
boiling water; stir until melted; add sugar and molasses; Combine
mixture with dry ingredients, and add the beaten eggs. Beat entire mixture until
gingerbread batter is smooth. Pour gingerbread batter into a greased baking tin. Bake at 350° for 30 to 40
minutes (2 - 7.5" squares on the center rack in your oven will take approx 30 minutes while a 9x13" pan will be closer to 35 minutes, note: oven cook times will vary.

Allow to fully cool and care fully remove from cooking tin (the disposable baking tins really come in handy since you will be removing the gingerbread from its pan and placing it in a tin, the flexibility of the baking tin allows for very easy removal) and place in your decorative tin.

If you are mailing this to someone you will want to purchase a can of frosting and transfer it to a small jar for shipping or wrap the frosting can with decorative paper, so that your recipient can apply the frosting upon arrival.

If you aren't mailing this, feel free to frost the gingerbread once it is in the decorative tin, being careful to mind the edges of the tin. If it's messy it just won't look as polished and cute.

You can either give the tin as is or wrap with a ribbon and place a gift tag on top. Either way, your recipient will enjoy the tin's contents...I guarantee it! Unless of course they hate gingerbread, in which case substitute with your own cake recipe or cookies.

I am linking this recipe up over at my girl Amanda's Blog: Serenity Now for her Family Friendly Food Week Party!

May
31
2011
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Project Details

This project is a repost from my guest post over at My Repurposed Life! Just in case you missed it... This adorable and simple bookshelf is Inspired by the PB Teen Stuff your Stuff bookshelf and is a continuation of a collection by the same name that I have been working on this past week.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Kreg Jig (pocket hole system)
  • Finish Nail Gun – optional and can use screws or finish nail set and hammer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’ OR at 8’ if an 8’ furring strip is less expensive (they usually are)
  • 1 – 1x12 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x12 at 8’
  • 1 – 3/4” Square Dowel at 3’
  • 1/2 sheet of 1/4” Ply at 4’x4’
Materials
  • 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1 1/4” Finish Nails
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 1x2 at 11 1/4” Side Trim – Cut to exact width of your 1x12 as these may vary by region
  • 3 – 1x2 at 28” Shelf Trim and Back Side Cleats
  • 1 – 1x2 at 31” Top
  • 1 – 1x3 at 31” Top
  • 2 – 1x12 at 27” Side Panels – can be plywood or mdf also
  • 2 – 1x12 at 28” Shelves
  • 1 – 1x12 at 31” Top
  • 1 – 3/4” Square Dowel at 31”
  • 1 – 1/4” Ply at 28” x 28 3/4” Back Panel
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build the Side Panels: Measure the actual width of your 1x12’s prior to cutting the length of your trim as the dimensions can vary considerably by region. Cut your 1x2’s to the exact width of your 1x12 and then you will use of your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the 1x12 Panels to the Legs. Then Fasten your Trim in place using 1 1/4” Finish Nails and Glue or if you prefer you can use your Kreg Jig to secure the Trim in place first, set for 3/4” Stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, and then proceed to fasten the panels in place after that. Both methods will work, this should be decided based on the tools and materials you have at your disposal.

Step 1
Step 2

Fasten the Shelves in Place: You will use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to secure the shelves in place, then fasten the trim in place using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue.

Step 2
Step 3

Fasten the Back Side Cleats in Place: Secure with your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. The top cleat will sit flush with the top of the legs, and both cleats will sit flush with the inside edges of the back legs, leaving a 3/4” inset space on the backside where you will attach your back panel in the next step.

Step 3
Step 4

Tack on the Back Panel: Cut a hole for these cords 4” from the bottom of the back panel. This hole can be 1 1/2” or 2” in diameter and can be cut out using a jig saw, or hole saw bit (or a drill savvy person could get crazy drilling pilot holes until the opening is large enough, if that person didn’t have a hole saw bit or jig saw). Use your 1 1/4” Finish Nails and Glue to secure the back panel to the Cleats. The back panel is inset between the legs, and will fasten directly to the cleats leaving about 1/2” of space remaining on the back side to allow for your electrical cords to run through and out the back.

Step 4
Step 5

Fasten the Top in Place: The Top will be comprised of a series of 3 boards adjacent to one another. Glue and Nail each on in place using your 1 1/4” finish nails and beginning at the back with the 1x2 which will sit flush with the legs, then tack on the next board which is a 1x12 and then finish the top with a 1x3 at the front which will hang over the front edge of the legs a bit. Once you have all 3 of those pieces glued and secured, you can nail on the trim piece (3/4” square dowel) to the front of the unit using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. It will sit just under the 1x3.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Kiddos 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

May
31
2011
Project Image
Project Details

This piece is a must if you plan on having an outdoor room with any of the fabulous other pieces in our Chesapeake Collection and will be constructed just like the rest of the collection so this should be a pretty snappy and very inexpensive build! Perfect between loungers or next to outdoor seating for keeping you cool while it’s toasty roasty hot outside, and offers the perfect spot to set your drinks and maybe a book or 2!

Showcase: Built From These Plans

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Tape Measure

Sander

Drill and a hole saw or spade bit

Kreg Jigs® (pocket hole system)– optional and you can secure using wood screws and a countersink bit or Finish Nails

Lumber

6 – 1x2 at 8’

4 – 1x3 at 8’

1 – 1x4 at 8’

Materials

1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws

1 1/4” Wood Screws or 1 1/4” Nails – **Galvanized four outdoor use

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 1x2 at 19” Side Legs

28 – 1x2 at 11 1/2” Vertical Panel Boards

8 – 1x2 at 15” Top

4 – 1x3 at 19” Front/Back Legs

8 – 1x3 at 12 1/2” Rails

4 – 1x3 at 16” Umbrella Holders

4 – 1x3 at 2” Umbrella Holders

2 – 1x3 at 19 1/4” Top

2 – 1x3 at 15” Top

2 – 1x4 at 19” Base Trim

2 – 1x4 at 17” Base Trim

Instructions

** You can make alterations to this piece to accommodate an existing umbrella stand base which I will explain further in the steps below (so be sure to read all the way through before you go cutting and buying) if your umbrella is unusually heavy or exceptionally wide and has fun tilting capabilities and you think you need a little extra staying action. If you live in an area like mine, you might be prone to the occasional umbrella fly away days with windy situations. An umbrella base encased in this stand/side table would give you a little more staying power for certain. In these parts it isn’t unusual to have to search for your umbrellas or to fish them out of your pools for instance. But in my current casa, it would more than likely land in my neighbors yard and that wouldn’t be good!

For outdoor use, choosing a wood specie that holds up well to moisture and is rot resistant is always advisable. Those option might include Cedar, Redwood, and Teak, perhaps also Eucalyptus but I am unsure how easy that might be to purchase or find at a typical lumber supply store. Also consider sealing your wood with something suitable for outdoor use such as a water seal type product.

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found on the main page of my site.

Step 1

Build the Front and Back Panels: Each Vertical section will have 7 – 1x2’s as shown below unless you need to alter the size of this to accommodate an existing umbrella stand. To determine the exact number you will need, simply calculate the width of your stand, then subtract 5” for the outside legs measurements and then the remaining space needs to be wide enough to accommodate a whole number of 1x2’s with 1/4” spaces between. This may take a bit of finger counting…if you get stuck, please feel free to contact me.

To fasten the panels together, use your Kreg Jigs® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the vertical boards (yellow) to the rails (blue) and the rails to the legs. The yellow boards (vertical boards) will be space 1/4” apart to allow for water runoff and other interesting outdoor conditions. This spacing will include the space between the legs and the first boards, and continue between each vertical board thereafter.

Step 1
Step 2

Build the Side Panels: If you need to alter the size as in the step above, you may need to add an extra vertical board for this step to count for the lack of width here since we are using 1x2’s for the legs also. This is purely for aesthetic purposes so the corner where the legs live don’t look extra bulky. To construct, use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, and create additional pocket holes down the legs on the side panels if you would like to fasten to the front and back panels in this manner. Otherwise you will use a countersink bit and 2” wood screws when you get to that step.

Step 2
Step 3

Add the Umbrella Holders: Construct the Shape using 1x3’s and your 2” Wood Screws. Then fasten to the Side Panels using your Kreg Jig®set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, fasten the raisl on the Side Panels with your pocket holes on the outside of the yellow boards for ease of fastening. The opening will be 2” and having 2 of these should steady your umbrella. If you plan to use an existing base with the umbrella stand side table, you can skip the bottom umbrella holder and simply add the top umbrella holder in the manner shown below.

Step 3
Step 4

Fasten the Sides with the Holders to the Front and Back Panels: This might be a bit of a tight squeeze to get inside here depending on your drill, but if you created pocket holes in the step above, Use your Kreg Jigs®set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the unit together. If you prefer to use a countersink bit and 2” wood screws, predrill and fasten in that manner. You may want to consider this as a possible plan b anyhow if you have a large bulky drill like I do!

Step 4
Step 5

Add the Base Trim: Use your 1 1/4” Finish Nails or Galvanized Nails and glue to attach or your 1 1/4” galvanized wood screws, just be sure to countersink and predrill for the most professional appearance.

Step 5
Step 6

Construct the Top: Use your Kreg Jigs® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to construct the top. You will place your pocket holes in the blue boards attaching them to the longer outside boards, and you will place them in the shorter outside boards (15”) to fasten them to the longer outside boards (19 1/4”). To fasten the top in place, use galvanized nails or screws. Just be sure to countersink if you are using screws. Once you have the top in place, using a hole saw bit or a large spade bit if you can find one in this size (2” diameter) to create the umbrella hole. It will be easiest to do this while it’s attached. Make sure you center your hole on the top but also that your hole lines up with the umbrella holders below! You wouldn’t want to begin with this piece off kilter!

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired! I would absolutely recommend applying a sealer that is suitable for outdoor use! Though PB uses a standard poly over a stain…just so you know!

Note

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Outdoor 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

May
31
2011
Project Image
Project Details

I realize this piece was at the bottom of our request list, but it’s just such a simple build that I decided to go ahead and tackle it and mark it off the list! This is a project that multiple people have mentioned so the desire to build this is high!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$150-$200

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Drill 
  • Kreg Jig® (pocket hole system)
  • Finish Nail Gun – optional and you can use a hammer and finish nail set or screws and a countersink bit, but a nailer is the preferred method!
  • Miter Saw or Coping Saw - if you choose to use trim mitered at the corners on the table top surrounds
Lumber
  • 8 – 16”-18” x 3 1/2” table legs in a style of your choice. Something like this style would be good!
  • 2 – 1x4 at 10’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 10’
  • 1 Sheet– 3/4” Ply
  • 1/2 Sheet 3/4” Ply at 2’ x 8’
  • 2 – 1/2”-3/4” trim in style of your choice at 8’
Materials
  • 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
  • 2 1/2” Pocket Hole Screws
  • 2 1/2” or 3” Wood Screws
  • 2” Finish Nails
  •  Wood Glue 
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x4 at 58” Base Frame
  • 5 – 2x4 at 13 1/2” Base Frame
  • 4 – 1x4 at 48” Aprons
  • 4 – 1x4 at 6 1/2” Aprons
  • 3 – 3/4” Ply at 17” x 58 1/2” Tops
  • 6 – 1/2” quarter round trim or another trim of your choice at 59 1/2” Tops Trim – this will change slightly if you use something larger than 1/2”
  • 6 – 1/2” quarter round trim or another trim of your choice at 18” Tops Trim - this will change slightly if you use something larger than 1/2”
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build the Frame: Use your Kreg Jig® set for 1 1/2” stock and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 1
Step 2

Build the Tops and Trim them Out: You will construct 3 of these total! Using the Trim of your choice, glue and nail in place using your finish nails. Miter or cope the corners for the most professional appearance. Note the dimensions shown below for the trim are for 1/2” quarter round trim, because I like the way the slight step down looks, so if you are using larger trim, your dimensions will need to adjust accordingly. This can also be created with a router and the decorative trim bit of your choice, if you prefer!

Step 2
Step 3

Attach the Legs to 2 of the Tops: Using 2 of the 3 tops you created in the previous step, you will attach the legs using glue and 2 1/2”-3” wood screws from underneath. Set the legs 1 3/4” from the edge of the top insert (not from the outside edge of the trim). Use 2 screws per leg and simply screw upward from directly underneath.

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the Aprons: Use your Kreg Jig®set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to them to the Legs. Set them back (or in) about 1/4” from the outside edge of the legs.

Step 4
Step 5

Add the Second Tier Leg and Top Section: Use your 2” Finish Nails and Glue to secure the Top/Leg combo to the Aprons and Legs all the way around.

Step 5
Step 6

Attach Second Tier Aprons: Use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to construct attach the second tier aprons. This is precisely the same as in step 4. and should be set in 1/4” from the outside edges of the legs.

Step 6
Step 7

Add the Top: Use your 2” Finish Nails and Glue to attach to the aprons and the legs.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Ask and Perhaps you Shall Recieve! I thought this would be a great way for you to post links and images of projects you would love to have plans for! You can request modifications to plans I have already posted (i.e. this in a twin size) or Project Types (i.e. desks with hidden storage or some such thing), you can even post actual links to the pieces you want from the original retailers with an image if possible (i.e. the PB such and such), and all in the comment section below. This will allow me to keep track of the pieces I need to work on, and will allow me to comment in reply to your link/request with questions, thoughts, or to tell you I have finished! Yay, fun right?

Ask and Perhaps you Shall Recieve!

May
31
2011
Project Image
Project Details

This is a slightly smaller version of the 60” Round Provence Table for those of you who love a round table but need a more compact option! Another piece of our Provence Collection which continues to be one of our most popular collections!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Jig Saw
  • Miter Saw – can also use a circular saw, table saw or even a jig saw if need be. 
  • Kreg Jig® (pocket hole system)
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x6 at 6’
  • 4 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 2 – 2 x 6 at 10’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 1 – 4x4 at 6’
Materials
  • 3″ Wood Screws
  • 2 1/2″ Wood Screws
  • 1 1/4” Wood Screws
  • 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws 
  • Wood Glue 
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 1 – 4×4 at 23 1/4″ Center Post
  • 4 – 1×6 at 6 1/2″ Lower Leg Base
  • 1 – 2×4 at 43″ Top Support
  • 2 – 2×4 at 19″ Top Supports
  • 8 – 2×4 at 14″ Trusses
  • 1 – 2×6 at 18 1/2″ Solid Upper Leg Base
  • 2 – 2×6 at 6 1/2″ Segmented Upper Leg Bases
  • 1 – 2×6 at 27″ Solid Center Leg Base
  • 2 – 2×6 at 10 3/4″ Segmented Center Leg Bases
  • 5 – 2×6 at 48″ Inside Boards Table Top
  • 2 – 2×6 at 40″ Outer Middle Boards Table Top
  • 2 – 2×6 at 30″ Outer Boards Table Top
  • 2 – 2×6 at 56 1/2″” Table Top
  • 1 – 2×6 at 60 1/2″ Table Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build the Leg Base: Cut your Upper Table Supports to size and fasten the yellow boards to the Center Support using a Kreg Jig® set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to then fasten to the Center Post using 3” Screws. Miter the Outside Edges of the Upper Leg Bases at a 45 Degree Angle. I have provided the measurements for top and bottom edges to make this easy for you. Fasten the Center Post to the Center Leg Base (red) using 3″ Screws, secure the leg base halves (orange) to the center leg base (red) using a Kreg Jig® set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws from underneath.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut and fasten the Trusses in place. They will connect to the upper leg bases and the table supports with 3″ screws at an angle into the beams, or by using your Kreg Jig® set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue. Each Truss will be cut at approximately the angle shown in the image below. However before you go ahead with those angled cuts, you should measure down 10 1/2” from the top and out 6 1/2” then mark your boards at the appropriate place to be sure your trusses are exact for your build. For the bottom trusses, you will measure up 12” and out 3 1/2” to find your angles and they should be somewhere in the ballpark of the numbers I indicate below.

Step 2
Step 3

Add the Solid Leg Base: Cut the pieces at a 45 Degree Angle on the outside edges, and glue and screw together and then glue and screw to the existing Upper Leg Base. Use 1 1/4” Screws to fasten the bottom leg base to the middle leg base, and use 2 1/2” screws to fasten the Center Leg Base to the Upper Leg Base.

Step 3
Step 4

Create the Segmented Leg Base: This will be very similar to the leg base above, only it will have a space in the middle so that it can sit astride the solid leg base in the step above. Miter the outside edges at 45 Degree Angles and fasten the Lower Leg Base to the Center Leg bases using 1 1/4” Screws and glue. It might be a bit of a tight squeeze to get inside here depending on your drill, but if you created pocket holes in the step above, Use your Kreg Jigs®set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the unit together. If you prefer to use a countersink bit and 2” wood screws, predrill and fasten in that manner. You may want to consider this as a possible plan b anyhow if you have a large bulky drill like I do!

Step 4
Step 5

Attach the Segmented Leg Bases to the Solid Leg Base: Use your Kreg Jig® set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the existing Solid Leg Base you attached in the previous steps.

Step 5
Step 6

Construct the Top: Use your Kreg Jig® set for 1 1/2″ stock and your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and glue to construct the top. Place your pocket holes and screws in every other board (blue) as shown below. Begin with fastening the 5 boards in the center at 48” in length together, then fasten the outer middle (40”) and outer boards (30”) in place. Your table top will step down a bit to save you form waste, then you will mark out a circle with a radius of 24” (48” diameter circle). Once you have all of your boards joined and your circle drawn, you can cut around your markings, to create your circle using a jig saw. Once your circular top has been carved and sanded, attach to the table supports from underneath using 2 1/2″ screws. The Solid running table support should run perpendicular to the table boards so that it can provide the greatest amount of support to the table top.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

May
31
2011
Project Image
Project Details

We are currently renting our home, and sadly that means the wonderful chalkboard painted walls I see in dining areas have been off limits to me. Until now... This project is also perfect for the commitment-phobe who can't pull the trigger on painting an entire wall with a dark color!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Tools
  • Saw – this is optional and you can have your lumber store cut your sheet of MDF down for you into a size you can transport easily as well as into the sizes necessary to frame out your MDF with 1x2’s.
Lumber
  • 1 Sheet of 1/2” MDF – you can also use 3/4” but 1/2” will be less expensive.
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’ – this is optional if you would like to trim out your mdf to give it a framed look. This is my plan as soon as I decide if I will change the color.
Materials
  • 1 Qt. Chalkboard Paint in a color of your choice
  • 1 – Ultra Fine Foam Roller
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Begin by cutting your sheet of MDF in half width wise if you haven’t already, into 2’ x 8’ sections. Dust them off well to remove any debris and sawdust so your paint will apply more perfectly.

Step 1
Step 2

I like to use a small disposable trim cup with my small-ish roller because it is easy to hang on to, and roll the roller on the flat edge to remove excess paint. You can tell from the picture I haven’t disposed of it yet and I don’t plan to anytime soon, so it’s money well spent in my book!

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Begin to roll a thin coat of your paint onto your boards being carefull not to overlap onto the edges if you don’t intend to frame them out. The other option might also be iron on edge banding and then you could paint right on top of it, but I didn’t do this since I do plan to frame them out one of these days… Once that first coat has dried, start again with another thin coat and be sure you are covering every section of the board. If you have been thorough in your coats of paint (note I said thorough, not thick…just sayin’) you may be able to get away with just the 2 coats!

Step 3
Step 4

The paint product suggests you need to let it cure for 3 days before conditioning.

Step 4
Step 5

To condition, you need to prime your surface with chalk! This is the fun part, truly! Slather that baby up using the side of your chalk and cover the entire surface!

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Then simply wipe it down and use till your hearts content! If your boards are as large as mine you may thenneed to then wipe down your entire surrounding area as well, talk about a dust storm of chalk! I am sure I took a few years off my life inhaling it…in fact perhaps a mask is a good idea! eek..

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

So what do you think, is the green the way to have gone or do you think I might like the black more? I am feeling super indecisive about it…

DIY 
Living 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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