June 2011

Free Woodworking Plans to Build Upper Wall Cabinet to Bridge the Fridge

06|30|11

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Have you always wanted to have the Kitchen of Your Dreams, but didn't think you could? Too expensive? Not a DIY project you feel comfortable handling? Say no more...

We continue our Dream Kitchen Series with an Upper Wall Cabinet to Bridge the Fridge.

Free Woodworking Plans to Build an Upper Wall Spice Cabinet Unit

06|30|11

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

We continue with our Dream Kitchen Series after taking a short sojourn through the land of chairs and bookshelves.
We will be covering a more specialized piece today with an upper wall spice cabinet unit. This is designed to fit next to a pantry unit or perhaps next to the area where your refrigerator will sit with upper cabinets above it.
This unit is deep, the same depth as a pantry and I am designing it to go along with a pull out multi-level drawer/shelf, however there is no reason why you can't modify this to use normal adjustable shelves as well.

More Mitchell Cubbies

06|30|11

Submitted by Lady Goats / Lady Goats

I have tall ceilings in my kitchen, and was looking for a way to decorate the wall above the cabinets. When I saw these on Pottery Barn's website, I LOVED them, and, even though I've seen many ways of putting them together, I liked Ry's take the best. So I altered the dimensions so I could use the scraps I had on-hand, took the assembly method listed on the site, and threw 'em together. I do plan on adding label holders like PB does, but that can wait ;-)

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a King Sized RBR Hudson Bed

06|30|11

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

Are you in the dog house for your weak attempt at a Valentine’s Day celebration? Spring yourself from the big house by making up for the error of your ways… Build this for your Sweetheart as a romantic peace offering…. I promise it will work! This is the first part of the full set of plans for building the bed that I am currently building for myself! If you hang out with us on my FB Fanpage, you know that I have been working on my very first “big girl” bed for the last week and a half! Through the process I have fully committed to the fact that I need a NEW SANDER and I also might benefit from investing in some oversized clamps. Sigh…it’s awfully hard to work on a project without having all of the proper tools necessary and you find yourself making compromises..and also learning some new tricks for getting the job done sans specific tools required! I consider the design of this bed to be a sophisticated farmhouse bed with a bit of cape cod or coastal style added to the mix! And this is just the beginning. Part 2 for this bed will come shortly, and will transform this baby into my dreamboat bed! yahoo…

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Tools

Tape Measure
Sander
Drill
Saw - Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.

Lumber

4 - 2x4 at 8' ** 9 – additional 2x4 at 8’ if you will not be using your own bed frame.
8 – 1x6 at 6’
2 - 1x8 at 8'
4 - 1x2 at 6' (head/footboard top trim)
1 - 1x2 at 8' (everything else listed for 1x2 cuts)
2 - 2x3 at 10'

Materials

2" Wood Screws
3" Wood Screws
3 1/2" Wood Screws
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 - 4x4 at 42 1/2" Legs
2 - 4x4 at 31 1/2" Legs
8 – 1x6 at 71” Panels
4 – 1x2 at 71” Head and Footboard Top/Bottom Trim
2 - 1x2 at 6 1/4" Upper Foot Side Trim
4 - 1x2 at 11 3/4” Upper Head and Lower Foot Side Trim
2 - 1x2 at 17 1/4" Lower Head Side Trim
6 - 2x3 at 72 1/2" Head and Foot Board Surrounding and Center Boards
2 – 2x3 at 33 1/2” Headboard Surrounding Side Boards
2 – 2x3 at 22 1/2” Footboard Surrounding Side Boards
2 - 1x8 at 82 1/2" Frame Side Rails
2 - 2x4 at 87 1/2" Top Trim Boards
**8 – 2x4 at approx. 77” Joists for Mattress support (dimensions will depend on exact measurement of your mattress, and this is only necessary if you aren’t using your bed frame)

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build your Headboard and Foot Board units. You are going to be building a puzzle essentially, that will fit together and sit perfectly inside a sandwich of surrounding boards. Use glue to attach adjacent boards and sandwich with side trim to secure in place. The Panels should be centered perfectly on the side trim pieces (1x2’s shown in green and blue) leaving equal spacing on either side. Use 2” screws to fasten the side, top, and bottom trim to the panel boards. Use your 3" Screws to fasten one set of panels (probably the bottom)to the Center Board (red) and glue the top section to it. Be sure the panel boards are centered on the Center Board as well. You want everything to be centered with equal spacing on front and back. Don’t worry about the pieces not being screwed together vertically, this design is not dependent upon it. Instead it will be the side attachments that matter.

Step 2

Fasten the Surrounding Boards to the Panels you just created. Use 3” screws and glue to connect. Be sure the Surrounding Boards are centered with equal amounts of overhang on front and back of each unit. Everything should feel nice and sturdy with no wiggle wobble.

Step 3

Fasten the Units to the Legs. You will fasten from the inside of the Surrounding Side Boards into the Legs on both the front and back of the unit and on either side. Use 3” screws and glue. The Units will sit flush with the top of the Legs. Once they are secured in place, you will fasten the Top Trim Board in place using 3 1/2” screws and glue. This should have an overhang of 2 1/2” on either side and will sit centered on the units, but flush with the width of the legs.

Step 4

Since this is for a King Sized bed, you have a few options where it relates to the Frame. The first option is to simply attach your metal bed frame to the Head/Fottboards themselves and add a Side rail to disguise and beautify (This is recommended for a much faster build and will save you quite a bit of money as well since you likely already have a frame since they tend to come free with your bed sets). You can also create adequate support for your mattress if you don’t have a frame by building a frame constructed of 2x4 joists with dimensions 1” longer than the width of your exact mattress and fasten them to the Side Rails and then to the Legs on the Head/Footboards. This is the recommended frame construction for not using the metal frame with your bed set since the 2x4’s should provide adequate support for the heavy mattress. I don’t recommend using slats for a bed set this heavy..I just don’t see it being the best solution here. Use 3” screws to fasten the 2x4’s to the Rails and use glue. Fasten the first and last 2x4 so that it sits perpendicular to the rails at the very front/back edge so you can use those joists to fasten directly to the head and foot boards. You can also use your pocket hole system to fasten the rails to the legs. I show the rails sitting centered in the legs, however you will want to place the rails at a location on the legs that best fits your exact mattress width. Mattresses are somewhat standard in size, but when you are talking about exact measurements…they are all over the board. You should fall somewhere near 76x80, but you could waver by 1-2” in any direction and this would be problematic if you haven’t secured your rails and joists accordingly.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Mod Office Tall Shelf

06|30|11

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

We covered this collection almost a year ago, and it's just as valid today as it was then...I adore the Mod Office Collection!

Building 2 of these with the Top forms a furniture piece that is bar height, a craft or desk area, that works well with a bar stool.

Soil Structure and Timing your Garden to Perfection

06|30|11

Submitted by Erin / The Impatient Gardener

Before I jump right into it, allow me to introduce myself. My name is Erin and I have a blog called The Impatient Gardener. It’s part gardening, part home decor and part learning-as-I-go DIY stuff.

I’m a master gardener in southeastern Wisconsin where I have an ever-expanding zone 5 garden. I love almost all kinds of gardening, from perennial and mixed borders, to containers overflowing with colorful annuals to vegetable and herb gardening. But enough with the introductions. Let’s get on with it.

And getting on with it is exactly what most of us who dream of gardening are anxious to do right about now. Who doesn’t want to get out there and start digging? And this is when the hardest part of gardening comes in. You have to resist the urge. When you are most eager to garden is probably exactly the wrong time to be in your garden.

Here’s why: The worst thing you can do to your garden is trudge around in your beds when the soil is saturated with winter’s leftovers and spring’s rain. It’s all about soil structure. Since soil structure falls under the category of “Possibly the most boring part of gardening to discuss” I’m not going to get into a lot of detail here, but think of soil structure as the texture of your soil. It might be very fine (sandy) or clumpy (clay) or, probably, something in between. The enemy of soil structure is compaction. That’s one reason why worms are so great to have in your garden: they are little aerators. It’s why gardeners love to add compost to their beds, not only for the nutritive benefits, but primarily for the wonderful benefits to your soil’s structure.

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Hudson Desk Hutch

06|30|11

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Another piece for our Hudson Collection! The hutch for the beautiful desk we covered here yesterday! Thanks Loren, I heart you soooo much!

Referring Sites for April 2011

06|30|11

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

This is my way of acknowledging and saying thank you to all of the fabulous sites who send visitors my way and link to me. This is definitely not all of you, only the top referring sites for the last 30 days as of April 12, 2011. I will update this list monthly, as my way of attepting to give back to all of those folks who have so kindly given to me! You guys make my world go round! I heart you all!

Referring Sites

What's in Your Toolbox

06|30|11

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

So, I am dying to know…what’s in your toolbox? Are there any tools or tips and tricks you have that work wonderfully or perhaps don’t quite make the cut? For those of you who hang with us on the FB Fanpage you are aware that I have been in dire need of a new sander. So much so that I will be honest, my projects have fallen way behind. With a toddler in tow for all of the building and projecting I do, not having the right tools on hand to quickly get the job done, make those jobs exactly that…jobs. Part of my sanding problem is that I am a smaller person with tiny hands and most powerful sanders are either bulky and too large for my hands to hold comfortable for any extended period of time or they are simply to heavy, and sanding for ANY period of time is miserable and exhausting. Like jack hammer driver exhausting. Not so good for checking things off the list!

But, I finally pulled the trigger and got a new sander. I chose a 1/4 sheet sander by Makita that is only 2 pounds and had the highest rpms for it’s price point and the weight and hand hold simply can’t be beat for what I need. So far, a dreamboat, and that is not an exaggeration. Not to mention the sanding sheets are $1.97 per package rather than the $4 plus I was required to purchase for my previous sander. You can read the review of that here. It’s got quite a few features, but the fatigue and bulk were finally more than I could handle and the cost for paper, quite prohibitive.

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Vetrina Cabinet

06|30|11

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Project Details

I know you guys are going to love this project! A new collection and if I’m not mistaken, this may not be available for purchase any longer…yay! This piece also comes to us from my new bff Loren! I heart her! Isn’t she so talented? Yes! If any of you would like to submit a set of plans, get in touch with me, I can help you get set up to share your work with everyone!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure

Sander

Drill

Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.

Saw - Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.

Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.

Lumber

Quarter Round Trim at 8’

2 - 1 1/2" x 1/4" Trim at 6' (this can also be 1x2 or any other trim style of your choice)

3 – 1x2 at 8’

2 – 1x6 at 10’

1 –1x12 at 8’

1 – 1x12 at 6’

1/4 Sheets of 3/4” Plywood or MDF (2’x4’)

1/2 Sheet of 1/4” Plywood, Particle Board, or MDF

Materials

**2” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System

1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws

7/8” Finish Nails or Brad Nails

2” Finish Nails

4 – Bun Feet or legs in a style of your preference

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x2 at 19 1/2” Bottom Frame

2 – 1x2 at 11 1/2” Bottom Frame

6 – 1x2 at 8 5/8” Drawer Supports

6 – 1x2 at 8 1/4” Drawer Supports

2 – 1x2 at 5 1/2” Door Rails

2 – 1x2 at 24 5/8” Door Stiles

1 – 1x2 at 21” Top (if you don’t use plywood for the top)

10 – 1x6 at 10 1/4” Drawer Sides

4 – 1x6 at 7” Upper Drawer Backs

4 – 1x6 at 8 1/2” Upper Drawer Fronts

1 – 1x6 at 16 3/8” Lower Drawer Back

1 – 1x6 at 17 7/8” Lower Drawer Front

2 – 1x12 at 31 1/8” Side Panels

1 – 1x12 at 24 3/4” Center Panels

1 – 1x12 at 18” Bottom Panel

1 – 1x12 at 17 1/2” Shelf

1 – 1x12 at 21” Top

4 – 3/4” ply at 9 1/2” x 7” Upper Drawer Bottoms

1 – 3/4” ply at 9 1/2” x 16 3/8” Lower Drawer Bottom

1 – 1/4” ply at 19 1/2” x 31 7/8” Back Panel

8 - 1 1/2" x 1/4" Trim at 8 1/2" Upper Drawer Trim

10 - 1 1/2" x 1/4" Trim at 5 1/2" Upper and Lower Drawer Trim Sides

2 - 1 1/2" x 1/4" Trim at 17 7/8" Lower Drawer Trim

Quarter Round Trim measured to fit your particular top and bottom

Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build your Base: Miter your frame corners and fasten together using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Attach your bun feet. You will most likely pre-drill with a 1/4” drill bit, but this will need to be determined by the exact feet or legs you choose.

Step 2

Attach the Bottom, Sides, Shelves, and Center Panel: Build the box and fasten the panels together as shown by using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Attach the Box to the Base using 2” screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system you will need to use 2” screws to fasten the panels in place and be sure to countersink and use glue. All pieces on the box will sit in 1/4” from the back edge of the frame to allow for attaching the back panel later.

Step 3

Fasten the Back Panel in Place. Use 7/8” finish nails or brad nails to tack in place, and use glue.

Step 4

Build and then Fasten the Drawer Supports in place. The pieces will sit as shown below. The drawer supports (yellow/brown) will be fastened together and to the side and center panel using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the rails (brown) to the stiles (yellow) and then fasten to the panels.

Step 5

Build the Drawers and Door. The Drawer bottom will sit inset and the drawer sides and front/back will be cut from 1×6’s. Use your pocket hole system to fasten the drawer bottom to the sides, front, and back, and to fasten the back to the sides, and the sides to the front. You will set it for 3/4” stock and use 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. You will build 4 upper drawers and 1 lower drawer. To build the door, simply build a face frame as you did for the drawer supports in the step above. Fasten the rails (yellow) to the stiles using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. To attach the plexi or glass insert, simply attach on the inside of the door using mirror clips or if you prefer you can router out a groove for the glass to slide into. You will want to router your pieces prior to fastening together, then after you fasten the lower rail and the stiles together, slide in your glass or plexi insert, then fasten the top rail in place.

If there is a bit too much wiggle room for your insert, use clear silicone on the inside to hold it in place a bit more.

Step 6

Fasten the Trim to the Top and the Bottom of the unit. Miter (cope) the corners of the trim and fasten to the unit and the top using 2” finish nails and glue. The image below shows 1/2” quarter round trim, because I like the way 1/2” sits slightly below the top of the top, but please feel free to use 3/4” quarter round or any other style of trim that you prefer. Fasten the top to the unit using 2” finish nails and glue.