RyTurner's picture

Free Woodworking Plans to Build Upper Wall Cabinet to Bridge the Fridge

$25-$50

Tape Measure

Square

Sander

Drill

Saw

**Kreg Jig - optional, can be done without...but honestly not sure why you would want to. This tool simplifies the building process exponentially.

** Finish nail gun - optional, but will make the process faster and easier especially if you are working on an entire kitchen!

2 - 1/4" Ply @ 23 1/4" x 18 1/8" Outside Panels

2 - 1/2" Ply @ 23 1/4" x 14 7/8" Inside Upper Panels

2 - 1/2" Ply @ 1 3/4" x 23 1/4" Inside Lower Panels

2 - 3/4" Ply @ 23 1/4" x 35 1/2" Shelves (Top and Bottom)

2 - 1x2 @ 34 1/2" Cleats

2 - 1x2 @ 18 1/8" Sides of Face Frame

1 - 1x2 @ 33" Top Rail Face Frame

1 - 1x2 at 14 1/8" Center Vertical Stile Face Frame

1 - 1x3 @ 33" Bottom Rail Face Frame

2 - 3/4" x 3/4" Solid Trim for Shelves @ 16 1/2"

Attach the cleats at the back of your side panels. It will sit flush with the top and back of the panels on both sides and flush with the top and back of the bottom strip panel as well. These can be attached using your Pocket Hole System set for 1/2" stock or with 1 1/4" Screws from the outside of the panels. This is how you will ultimately attach your cabinet to the wall using your dry wall screws.

Step 3

Insert your bottom shelf and the top. The bottom shelf will help you align your interior panels so they "fit" the outside panels properly. Attach the bottom shelf using your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" stock. It will attach to the bottom interior panels. Attach the top to the interior panels, and cleat. Use your Kreg Jig to attach from the interior panels underneath set for 1/2" stock or 5/8" screws from the top down into the interior panels.

Step 4
Project Image

Have you always wanted to have the Kitchen of Your Dreams, but didn't think you could? Too expensive? Not a DIY project you feel comfortable handling? Say no more...

We continue our Dream Kitchen Series with an Upper Wall Cabinet to Bridge the Fridge.

**You can buy full sheets if you plan to build several cabinets.

**1/4 sheet = 2'x4' for this plan

1/2 sheet- 3/4" Plywood (a lower grade is fine).

1/4 sheet - 1/2" Plywood (a lower grade is fine)

1/4 sheet - 1/4" Plywood (this will be showing on the sides of outside cabinets, but will not show on the back or inside cabinet walls).

1 - 1x2 at 8'

1 - 1x2 at 6'

1 - 1x3 at 6'

**Kreg Jig Owners: 1" Pocket Hole Screws, 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws

**2" Screws - only necessary if not using a Pocket Hole System

1 1/4" Screws

5/8" Screws

2" Finish Nails

3" drywall screws or wall dog anchors

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sandpaper

Finishing Supplies

Cut your Outside Panels to size as indicated in the diagram below.

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

We will begin constructing the interior panels: I have made this so easy for you in the way I have designed this. You don't need a table saw to create Dadoes...it's just plain easy.

Cut your interior panel pieces to size (this will be mirrored on the opposite side, so truly you will need 4 pieces total).

Step 2

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Use 5/8" screws to attach the Outside Panels to the Interior Panels, from the inside. Be sure to countersink.

Build the Face Frame: use your Pocket hole System to build the frame, and place your pocket holes in the rails (horizontal pieces) and the vertical center stile, set for 3/4" stock. Then attach to the cabinet using 2" finish nails. If you aren't using a PHS, attach the Frame pieces directly to the cabinet using 2" finish nails.

Step 5

If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

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Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Jun
30
2011
Project Image
Project Details

We continue with our Dream Kitchen Series after taking a short sojourn through the land of chairs and bookshelves.
We will be covering a more specialized piece today with an upper wall spice cabinet unit. This is designed to fit next to a pantry unit or perhaps next to the area where your refrigerator will sit with upper cabinets above it.
This unit is deep, the same depth as a pantry and I am designing it to go along with a pull out multi-level drawer/shelf, however there is no reason why you can't modify this to use normal adjustable shelves as well.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Saw
  • Kreg Jig - optional but very helpful
Lumber
  • 1/2 sheet - 1/4” plywood - will be visible and should be a decent grade and specie
  • 1/2 sheet - 1/2” plywood - can be low grade
  • 1/2 sheet - 3/4” plywood - can be low grade
  • 1 - 1x2 at 8'
  • 1 - 1x3 at 6'
Materials
  • 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws
  • 1 1/4" Wood Screws - if not using pocket hole jig
  • 5/8" Wood Screws
  • 5/8" Brad Nails
  • 2" Finishing Nails
  • 3" Dry Wall Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 - 1/4” ply at 23 1/4”x 30” (outsides)
  • 1 - 1/4” ply at 11 1/2” x 30” (back)
  • 2 - 1/2" Ply at 26 3/4" x 22 7/8" (upper interior panels)
  • 2 - 1/2” ply at 1 3/4” x 22 7/8” (Lower interior Panels)
  • 2 - 3/4” ply at 11 1/2” x 22 7/8” (bottom shelf and cabinet top)
  • 2 - 1x2 at 10 1/2” (cleats)
  • 2 - 1x2 at 30” (face frame stiles)
  • 1 - 1x2 at 9” (face frame rail)
  • 1 - 1x3 at 9” (lower face frame rail)
Instructions

This cabinet making technique is one of my own invention, meant for folks who don’t own table saws or routers. If you do happen to own a table saw, you are welcome to make this in a more traditional sense and opt for 3/4” ply for the outside panels and carve out dadoes and grooves in the spaces I have created with the interior panels.

If you prefer to make this with adjustable shelves, you will need to create them from 3/4” ply and should use 3/4” x 3/4” square trim on the front edge. Otherwise I will be following this plan with a pull out shelving unit for this cabinet.

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut your outside panels to size. Be sure they are perfectly square. You can check for square by measuring the diagonals and making sure they match as well as measuring the corner angles for 90 degree accuracy.
 

Step 1
Step 2

Cut your interior panels to size. If you plan on using adjustable shelves, drill your holes according to the diagram below. Otherwise, the next plan in this series is for a pull out unit with multiple levels. Don’t forget you will need to mirror this image on the other side, so you will need 4 interior panels in total. The interior panels are constructed from 1/2” plywood.
 

Step 2
Step 3

Attach the cleats to the interior panels, if you aren’t using a pocket hole system, be sure to countersink your screws from the outside of the interior panels so that they are flush or below the surface of the panels. Each cleat should be flush with the top of it’s respective interior panel (top cleat with top panel and the lower cleat with lower panel).

Step 3
Step 4

Add the top and bottom shelves to the interior panels, using glue and a pocket hole system if you have one, if you aren’t using a pocket hole jig, simply glue the bottom shelf in place and screw to the upper interior panel using 5/8” screws and be sure to countersink. Once the shelves are in place, tack on the outside panels using glue and 5/8” screws from the inside. Leave 3/8” overhang on the backside, Tack on your back using 7/8” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Create your face frame. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and place your pocket holes in the rails. attach to the cabinet using 2” finish nails. If you aren’t using a pocket hole jig, simply fasten your face frame to the cabinet using finish nails and glue.

You will attach your cabinet to the wall using 3” drywall screws through the cleats. We will cover an easy way to install cabinets in a future plan.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Lady Goats's picture

More Mitchell Cubbies

This was a quick, easy build thanks to the clear directions here on TDC!

Free - I used scraps

Taxonomy upgrade extras 
Mitchell Cubbies

I have tall ceilings in my kitchen, and was looking for a way to decorate the wall above the cabinets. When I saw these on Pottery Barn's website, I LOVED them, and, even though I've seen many ways of putting them together, I liked Ry's take the best. So I altered the dimensions so I could use the scraps I had on-hand, took the assembly method listed on the site, and threw 'em together. I do plan on adding label holders like PB does, but that can wait ;-)

If you are planning on using these for anything other than RARELY accessed wall storage, follow the plans exactly. I was able to use mine as a "bench" while I was working on other projects, but I would imagine a ton of usage would take it's toll on this.

When I finished the cubbies, I used a latex paint and painted them turquoise and let them dry. Then I painted over that with two coats of high gloss white and let that dry completely. Took my random orbital sander with 220 grit sandpaper and sanded random places to reveal the turquoise underneath the white.

Jun
30
2011
Project Image
Project Details

Are you in the dog house for your weak attempt at a Valentine’s Day celebration? Spring yourself from the big house by making up for the error of your ways… Build this for your Sweetheart as a romantic peace offering…. I promise it will work! This is the first part of the full set of plans for building the bed that I am currently building for myself! If you hang out with us on my FB Fanpage, you know that I have been working on my very first “big girl” bed for the last week and a half!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Saw - Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
Lumber
  • 4 - 2x4 at 8' ** 9 – additional 2x4 at 8’ if you will not be using your own bed frame.
  • 8 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 2 - 1x8 at 8'
  • 4 - 1x2 at 6' (head/footboard top trim)
  • 1 - 1x2 at 8' (everything else listed for 1x2 cuts)
  • 2 - 2x3 at 10'
Materials
  • 2" Wood Screws
  • 3" Wood Screws
  • 3 1/2" Wood Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 - 4x4 at 42 1/2" Legs
  • 2 - 4x4 at 31 1/2" Legs
  • 8 – 1x6 at 71” Panels
  • 4 – 1x2 at 71” Head and Footboard Top/Bottom Trim
  • 2 - 1x2 at 6 1/4" Upper Foot Side Trim
  • 4 - 1x2 at 11 3/4” Upper Head and Lower Foot Side Trim
  • 2 - 1x2 at 17 1/4" Lower Head Side Trim
  • 6 - 2x3 at 72 1/2" Head and Foot Board Surrounding and Center Boards
  • 2 – 2x3 at 33 1/2” Headboard Surrounding Side Boards
  • 2 – 2x3 at 22 1/2” Footboard Surrounding Side Boards
  • 2 - 1x8 at 82 1/2" Frame Side Rails
  • 2 - 2x4 at 87 1/2" Top Trim Boards
  • **8 – 2x4 at approx. 77” Joists for Mattress support (dimensions will depend on exact measurement of your mattress, and this is only necessary if you aren’t using your bed frame)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build your Headboard and Foot Board units. You are going to be building a puzzle essentially, that will fit together and sit perfectly inside a sandwich of surrounding boards. Use glue to attach adjacent boards and sandwich with side trim to secure in place. The Panels should be centered perfectly on the side trim pieces (1x2’s shown in green and blue) leaving equal spacing on either side. Use 2” screws to fasten the side, top, and bottom trim to the panel boards. Use your 3" Screws to fasten one set of panels (probably the bottom)to the Center Board (red) and glue the top section to it. Be sure the panel boards are centered on the Center Board as well. You want everything to be centered with equal spacing on front and back. Don’t worry about the pieces not being screwed together vertically, this design is not dependent upon it. Instead it will be the side attachments that matter.

Step 1
Step 2

Fasten the Surrounding Boards to the Panels you just created. Use 3” screws and glue to connect. Be sure the Surrounding Boards are centered with equal amounts of overhang on front and back of each unit. Everything should feel nice and sturdy with no wiggle wobble.

Step 2
Step 3

Fasten the Units to the Legs. You will fasten from the inside of the Surrounding Side Boards into the Legs on both the front and back of the unit and on either side. Use 3” screws and glue. The Units will sit flush with the top of the Legs. Once they are secured in place, you will fasten the Top Trim Board in place using 3 1/2” screws and glue. This should have an overhang of 2 1/2” on either side and will sit centered on the units, but flush with the width of the legs.

Step 3
Step 4

Since this is for a King Sized bed, you have a few options where it relates to the Frame. The first option is to simply attach your metal bed frame to the Head/Fottboards themselves and add a Side rail to disguise and beautify (This is recommended for a much faster build and will save you quite a bit of money as well since you likely already have a frame since they tend to come free with your bed sets). You can also create adequate support for your mattress if you don’t have a frame by building a frame constructed of 2x4 joists with dimensions 1” longer than the width of your exact mattress and fasten them to the Side Rails and then to the Legs on the Head/Footboards. This is the recommended frame construction for not using the metal frame with your bed set since the 2x4’s should provide adequate support for the heavy mattress. I don’t recommend using slats for a bed set this heavy..I just don’t see it being the best solution here. Use 3” screws to fasten the 2x4’s to the Rails and use glue. Fasten the first and last 2x4 so that it sits perpendicular to the rails at the very front/back edge so you can use those joists to fasten directly to the head and foot boards. You can also use your pocket hole system to fasten the rails to the legs. I show the rails sitting centered in the legs, however you will want to place the rails at a location on the legs that best fits your exact mattress width. Mattresses are somewhat standard in size, but when you are talking about exact measurements…they are all over the board. You should fall somewhere near 76x80, but you could waver by 1-2” in any direction and this would be problematic if you haven’t secured your rails and joists accordingly.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

RyTurner's picture

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Mod Office Tall Shelf

$50-$75

Dimensions for This Project

Tape Measure

Square

Sander

Drill

Kreg Jig

Iron - for the edge banding.

2 - 3/4" @ 38 x 14" (Top and Bottom)

2 - 3/4" @ 34 1/4 x 13" (Front Sides)

1 - 3/4" @ 34 1/4 x 12 1/2" (Center Panel)

1 - 3/4" @ 34 1/4 x 14" (Back Panel)

1 - 3/4" @ 36 1/2 x 12 1/2" (Unit Base)

2 - 3/4" @ 24 1/4 x 14" (Longer Back Shelf)

2 - 3/4" @ 12 1/2 x 12 1/4" (Shorter Front Shelf)

3 - 1x2 @ 11" Base Connectors

2 - 1x2 @ 12 1/2" Base Frame

2 - 1x2 @ 35" Base Frame

Attach the Top: Use 2" Screws.

Attach the Base: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the base frame together, and to attach the connector pieces to the base frame. Then use 1 1/4" Screws and glue to fasten the connector pieces to the unit itself.

Step 3
Step 4
Project Image

We covered this collection almost a year ago, and it's just as valid today as it was then...I adore the Mod Office Collection!

Building 2 of these with the Top forms a furniture piece that is bar height, a craft or desk area, that works well with a bar stool.

2 - 1x2 at 8'

2 Sheets - 3/4" Plywood, MDF, or Melamine

**Choose Plywood for staining, MDF for painting and Melamine if you prefer a unit that is white (no painting required and very durable).

**Kreg Jig Owners: 1 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws.

For MDF choose Coarse Thread Screws or Dry Wall Screws.

2" Screws - ** Kreg Owners will not need this item and will use the 1 1/2" PHS in place of this.

1 1/4" Screws

3/4" Iron on Edge Banding that matches the material you choose to build with.

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Build the Box: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue or you can use 2" Screws and glue, just be sure to countersink for the most professional appearance.

Step 1

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Fasten the Shelves in Place: Begin with the longer shelves on the backside and use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue or you might use 2" Screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Step 2

If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Use Iron on Edge Banding for exposed edges. You can generally purchase this to match your particular materials used for building.

Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Erin's picture

Soil Structure and Timing your Garden to Perfection

This beautiful soil is pretty close to perfect. If a handful of your soil forms a clump when you squeeze it and doesn't break apart into something that looks a little bit like this when you rap it with your fist, then it's too wet to work in.

So imagine you have a mix of wet clay and dirt and you pick up a handful, squeeze it, then set it down to dry out for a few days. When you come back, that handful of clay and dirt will have turned into an almost solid wad of unbreakable material (think about a paperweight you probably made in second grade). Now pretend you are a little plant root, maybe a little thicker than a hair on your head. Would you like to make your way through a would-be paperweight? Walking in your garden when the ground is saturated has the same effect. Any clay molecules (and most of us have at least some clay soil) will bind together, create hard-as-rock clumps and further compact your soil. Plants have a tough job ahead of them to thrive anywhere, don’t make it even harder by compacting their home.

I know you’re feeling disappointed right now, but fear not, you can still garden. Of course exactly what you can do, and when, depends on your climate, but most everyone should have already or can now do their late winter/early spring pruning (it really is the best time to do it). You can also do some light raking (standing outside your beds) and pretty much anything you can accomplish without stepping in a bed.

So when is it safe to really get in the garden? Some of us, of course, still have frozen ground, so feel free to tromp around if that’s the case (but do be a little cautious of spring bulbs popping up). Otherwise, you want to wait until the ground is sufficiently dry. You can check this by taking a handful of dirt and checking it out: When you squeeze it does it form a solid clump? Too wet. Does it crumble when you tap it with your fist? Then you’re probably safe. But a complete ban on bed-stepping is pretty hard to carry out, so if you absolutely MUST walk in your beds, consider using a board to step on to spread the load a little. In the meantime, to satisfy the gardening itch, spend some time making a plan of attack for spring, making mental notes of what needs moving, dividing and replacing so you’re ready to roll as soon as your soil is. Good luck and good gardening (or waiting, as the case may be).

Taxonomy upgrade extras 
Project Image

Before I jump right into it, allow me to introduce myself. My name is Erin and I have a blog called The Impatient Gardener. It’s part gardening, part home decor and part learning-as-I-go DIY stuff.

I’m a master gardener in southeastern Wisconsin where I have an ever-expanding zone 5 garden. I love almost all kinds of gardening, from perennial and mixed borders, to containers overflowing with colorful annuals to vegetable and herb gardening. But enough with the introductions. Let’s get on with it.

To visit Erin and see what she’s up to in between her visits here with us, visit her at her site – The Impatient Gardener.

If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

RyTurner's picture

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Hudson Desk Hutch

Tape Measure

Sander

Drill

Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.

Saw - Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.

Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.

$25-$50

Dimensions for This Project

4 – 1x6 at 7 3/4” Drawer Sides

2 – 1x6 at 14 5/8” Drawer Backs

2 – 1x6 at 16 1/8” Drawer Fronts

1 – 1x2 at 65” Base Trim

4 – 1x2 at 10 1/2” Base and Top Trim

1 – 1x2 at 28 1/2” Front Trim Center Unit

2 – 1x2 at 18 3/4” Trim

4 – 1x2 at 5 1/2” Drawer Trim

4 – 1x2 at 16 1/8” Drawer Trim

1 – 3/4” ply at 62” x 10 1/2” Base/Bottom

1 – 3/4” ply at 64” x 5 3/4” Back

4 – 3/4” ply at 9 1/4” x 5 3/4” Sides and Center Panels

2 – 3/4” ply at 7” x 14 5/8” Drawer Bottoms

2 – 3/4” ply at 9” 15 3/4” Tops

4 – 1/4” ply at 5 1/2” x 4” Panel Inserts

4 – 1/4” ply at 5 1/2” x 8 1/2” Center Unit Panels

2 – 1/4” ply at 11 1/2” x 4” Center Unit Shelves

Build the Center Unit: I would begin with these pieces shown below since you won’t have any issue of connections with these. Use 7/8” finish nails and glue to fasten together. Then move on the the image below this to secure the outside 2 panel inserts, then fasten the trim in place in the image below that. Use your 1 1/4” finish nails to secure from the backside and from the center panels into the outside panel inserts. Use 2” Screws to fasten the 1x2 trim in the front, by securing from underneath the hutch unit, be sure to countersink and use glue.

Build the Drawers. The Drawer bottom will sit inset and the drawer sides and front/back will be cut from 1x6’s. Use your pocket hole system to fasten the drawer bottom to the sides, front, and back, and to fasten the back to the sides, and the sides to the front. You will set it for 3/4” stock and use 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Tack on the trim using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. You will build 2 drawers total.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 3
Step 4
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Another piece for our Hudson Collection! The hutch for the beautiful desk we covered here yesterday! Thanks Loren, I heart you soooo much!

1 – 1x2 at 8’

1 – 1x2 at 6’

1 – 1x6 at 8’

1 Sheet of 3/4” Plywood or MDF

1/2 Sheet of 1/4” Plywood or MDF

**2” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System

1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws

7/8” Finish Nails or Brad Nails

1 1/4” Finish Nails

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Build your Base: Miter your Trim and fasten the Bottom Board to the Trim and the Trim to the front trim using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the Trim using glue and then secure it in the next step by fastening it to the Sides and center panels.

Step 1

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Connect the Panels: Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to secure. If you aren’t using a Pocket hole system, use 2” screws and glue and be sure to countersink so that your screws are flush on the bottom.

Step 2

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Build and Top and Trim it out. If you would like to Fasten the Hutch to the Desk rather than leave it unattached for easy removal, then you should attach it prior to adding the tops. Do this by simply fastening the base/bottom directly to the Desk Top using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue if you prefer.

The top trim should be mitered in the front for the most professional appearance and you should secure it to the tops in the same manner you built the bottom/base in step 1. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the Tops to the Unit using 1 1/4” Finish nails and glue.

Step 5

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Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

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What's in Your Toolbox

It’s true love I tell you!

I mentioned in this post here, that I am a fan of drills with cords. There is no doubt there can be irritation with having a cord and most likely an extension cord in tow at all times. But I will tell you what a bigger irritation is…having a drill with batteries that isn’t ready when you need it to be. See, friends, I don’t live in a house where there is a hubs who gives a crap about tools and building. The hubs has his priorities, and those just aren’t them! But somehow he has this uncanny ability to foil my best laid plans and say…turn off a light switch that happens to be connected to the only plug where it’s logical to charge a battery pack or perhaps to misplace the crucial ingredients to an impending build, whatever they may be (ahem…countersink bits, kreg jig..you know important stuff).

While it isn’t the most convenient to cart a cord around with me that weighs almost as much as I do, it IS ALWAYS convenient to be able to use my drill wherever (thanks to my 1 million foot long extension cord) and whenever I like! yahoo

Perhaps one day I shall migrate to a tiny little impact driver with a lithium battery and not worry about the hubs losing my stuff, until then…it’s all cords all the time!

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So, I am dying to know…what’s in your toolbox? Are there any tools or tips and tricks you have that work wonderfully or perhaps don’t quite make the cut? For those of you who hang with us on the FB Fanpage you are aware that I have been in dire need of a new sander. So much so that I will be honest, my projects have fallen way behind. With a toddler in tow for all of the building and projecting I do, not having the right tools on hand to quickly get the job done, make those jobs exactly that…jobs.

I use a DeWalt Miter Saw for the majority of my cuts. I adore this tool because it’s fast, easy, precise and completely functional…except when we are talking about wide cuts. Actually even then I might just flip the board and line her up as best I can because it’s just fast and simple. This tool to me, has so much power yet is the least scary of all the saw-like tools in my arsenal. Even my jig saw wigs me out a bit…probably just me, I tend to be a scaredy cat! Whatyagonnado?

Ah, now we are getting to some of my new toys…the hail mary to my board fastening…a ginormous CLAMP MONSTER! Can you see how beefy this friend is? Large and in Charge! no more struggling to secure boards that are wider than my arm span. nope!

Of course you can’t miss that beauty underneath my post and clamp…My new table saw! which I am thoroughly terrified of, but have in fact used with moderate success. I suppose I need just a tad more practice and perhaps some cajones…you know what I mean!

Stay tuned for Part 2 of What’s in Your Toolbox…we will continue with some other fabulous and favorite tools and products of mine! Would you like to share what’s in your toolbox? I would love to make this a regular series sharing reader tips and tricks…send me an email if you would like to contribute, even if it’s to share your follies..I have plenty of them, good thing I can laugh at myself.

Jun
30
2011
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Project Details

I know you guys are going to love this project! A new collection and if I’m not mistaken, this may not be available for purchase any longer…yay! This piece also comes to us from my new bff Loren! I heart her! Isn’t she so talented? Yes! If any of you would like to submit a set of plans, get in touch with me, I can help you get set up to share your work with everyone!

Showcase: Built From These Plans

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Tape Measure

Sander

Drill

Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.

Saw - Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.

Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.

Lumber

Quarter Round Trim at 8’

2 - 1 1/2" x 1/4" Trim at 6' (this can also be 1x2 or any other trim style of your choice)

3 – 1x2 at 8’

2 – 1x6 at 10’

1 –1x12 at 8’

1 – 1x12 at 6’

1/4 Sheets of 3/4” Plywood or MDF (2’x4’)

1/2 Sheet of 1/4” Plywood, Particle Board, or MDF

Materials

**2” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System

1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws

7/8” Finish Nails or Brad Nails

2” Finish Nails

4 – Bun Feet or legs in a style of your preference

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x2 at 19 1/2” Bottom Frame

2 – 1x2 at 11 1/2” Bottom Frame

6 – 1x2 at 8 5/8” Drawer Supports

6 – 1x2 at 8 1/4” Drawer Supports

2 – 1x2 at 5 1/2” Door Rails

2 – 1x2 at 24 5/8” Door Stiles

1 – 1x2 at 21” Top (if you don’t use plywood for the top)

10 – 1x6 at 10 1/4” Drawer Sides

4 – 1x6 at 7” Upper Drawer Backs

4 – 1x6 at 8 1/2” Upper Drawer Fronts

1 – 1x6 at 16 3/8” Lower Drawer Back

1 – 1x6 at 17 7/8” Lower Drawer Front

2 – 1x12 at 31 1/8” Side Panels

1 – 1x12 at 24 3/4” Center Panels

1 – 1x12 at 18” Bottom Panel

1 – 1x12 at 17 1/2” Shelf

1 – 1x12 at 21” Top

4 – 3/4” ply at 9 1/2” x 7” Upper Drawer Bottoms

1 – 3/4” ply at 9 1/2” x 16 3/8” Lower Drawer Bottom

1 – 1/4” ply at 19 1/2” x 31 7/8” Back Panel

8 - 1 1/2" x 1/4" Trim at 8 1/2" Upper Drawer Trim

10 - 1 1/2" x 1/4" Trim at 5 1/2" Upper and Lower Drawer Trim Sides

2 - 1 1/2" x 1/4" Trim at 17 7/8" Lower Drawer Trim

Quarter Round Trim measured to fit your particular top and bottom

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build your Base: Miter your frame corners and fasten together using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Attach your bun feet. You will most likely pre-drill with a 1/4” drill bit, but this will need to be determined by the exact feet or legs you choose.

Step 1
Step 2

Attach the Bottom, Sides, Shelves, and Center Panel: Build the box and fasten the panels together as shown by using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Attach the Box to the Base using 2” screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system you will need to use 2” screws to fasten the panels in place and be sure to countersink and use glue. All pieces on the box will sit in 1/4” from the back edge of the frame to allow for attaching the back panel later.

Step 2
Step 3

Fasten the Back Panel in Place. Use 7/8” finish nails or brad nails to tack in place, and use glue.

Step 3
Step 4

Build and then Fasten the Drawer Supports in place. The pieces will sit as shown below. The drawer supports (yellow/brown) will be fastened together and to the side and center panel using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the rails (brown) to the stiles (yellow) and then fasten to the panels.

Step 4
Step 5

Build the Drawers and Door. The Drawer bottom will sit inset and the drawer sides and front/back will be cut from 1×6’s. Use your pocket hole system to fasten the drawer bottom to the sides, front, and back, and to fasten the back to the sides, and the sides to the front. You will set it for 3/4” stock and use 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. You will build 4 upper drawers and 1 lower drawer. To build the door, simply build a face frame as you did for the drawer supports in the step above. Fasten the rails (yellow) to the stiles using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. To attach the plexi or glass insert, simply attach on the inside of the door using mirror clips or if you prefer you can router out a groove for the glass to slide into. You will want to router your pieces prior to fastening together, then after you fasten the lower rail and the stiles together, slide in your glass or plexi insert, then fasten the top rail in place.

If there is a bit too much wiggle room for your insert, use clear silicone on the inside to hold it in place a bit more.

Step 5
Step 6

Fasten the Trim to the Top and the Bottom of the unit. Miter (cope) the corners of the trim and fasten to the unit and the top using 2” finish nails and glue. The image below shows 1/2” quarter round trim, because I like the way 1/2” sits slightly below the top of the top, but please feel free to use 3/4” quarter round or any other style of trim that you prefer. Fasten the top to the unit using 2” finish nails and glue.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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Inside a Black Apple and Other Fabulous Ephemera

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I hope to begin sharing Art with you on a regular basis…we shall see how that turns out!

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