Jul
31
2011
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Project Details

This kitchen microwave toy is perfect for the kiddos whose houses or rooms are not exactly plentiful on square footage. This will easily fit on a shelf or dresser top for hours on end of playtime fun! I'm sure you can imagine what might be coming next!
 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • 1 1/2" Hole Saw Bit - or a jig saw, belt saw, patience and a sander...any of these will work.
  • Saw - you can have your local lumber supply cut your boards to their overall dimensions for you and then use a jig saw to make the detailed cuts if you like.
  • Kreg Jig - you can purchase a solid table top round at any size that suits your purpose, or you can fasten together boards using your pocket hole system.
Lumber
  • 1 1/2" x 1/4" dowel pegs, or 1/4" dowel rod cut to size - you will only need 2 of these at very short lengths.
  • 1/4 sheet 1/2 plywood or mdf
  • 1- 1x2 at 6'
Materials
  • # 8 - 1 1/2" Wood Screws
  • #8 - 2" Wood Screws - if you aren't using a Pocket Hole System
  • 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws - if you are using a pocket hole system to create the door
  • 1 1/2" x 1/4" dowel pegs, or 1/4" dowel rod cut to size
  • 2 - 1/4" x 1 1/2" carriage bolts or hex bolts with 1/4" diameter of the shaft, you want the head to have a hexagon shape.
  • 2 - nuts in the appropriate size for the back end.
  • Countersink Bit
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
  • Clear thin Acrylic sheeting - this is optional and you can opt to skip this leaving the opening in the door, open.

 

Cut List
  • 2 - 1/2" ply or mdf at 11 1/4" x 7 1/2" Top and Bottom
  • 2 - 1/2" ply or mdf at 7 1/2" x 6" Sides
  • 1 - 1/2" ply or mdf at 10 3/4" x 6" Back
  • 1 - 1/2" ply or mdf at 3 1/4" x 6" Front Panel
  • 2 - 1x2 at 6" Door Stiles
  • 2 - 1x2 at 4" Door Rails
  • 2 - 1 1/2" Circular Knobs - create from 1x2
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut your bottom, sides, and back. Fasten together using glue and 1 1/2" wood screws.

Step 1
Step 2

At 1/2" from the edge of your side panel and 3/8" from the front edge of your bottom, you will create a hole using a 3/8" drill bit and a depth collar at the 1/4" mark on your drill. You can actually wrap your drill bit with tape and visually know when to stop drilling. The idea is that you drill 1/4" down into the bottom panel and stop. You will do this on your top panel as well, only since it isn't attached to the sides yet, you will measure out 1" from the side edge and 3/8" from the front and drill 1/4" down into the panel.

Step 2
Step 3

You will construct your door and fasten the front panel in place. To construct the door, either use your pocket hole system set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws, or use your 2" screws and wood glue. Use 1 1/2" Screws and glue to fasten the front panel in place.

Step 3
Step 4

Drill your hole into the top and bottom of the left most stile on your door. You will adjust your depth to be equal to the length necessary if you subtract 3/8" from the total length of your dowel peg. that number will be how far down into your door stile the dowel peg will sit. place your depth collar at that level on your drill bit, or a piece of tape. The hole should be placed 3/8" in from the edge and precisely 3/8" in from the front and back of the door stile (vertical piece) or precisely in the center.
 

Step 4
Step 5

Place your dowel pegs into the bottom panel and the top of the door. Do not glue!
 

Step 5
Step 6

Set the door onto the bottom panel peg. Again, do not glue!
 

Step 6
Step 7

Set your top panel onto the Top Door Peg and fasten the Top to the Side panels and the Front Panel. Do not fasten to the door or glue the top door peg in place!

 

 

Step 7
Step 8

Drill 3/8" holes into the Front Panel. This should give your bolt room to spin! After you have cut your circles to size, fasten the bolt through the front of the knob, and let it rest through the hole in the front panel, then attach a nut on the back. Keep it loose so that it will spin properly.
 

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Kiddos 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

RyTurner's picture

Modern Living Room Moodboard

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I know you are all excited to see this, and would you know I was able to keep it under wraps...I was worried there for a bit, that I would spill the beans! I finished this design services project and kept the budget low by using DIY art, pieces they already own, and collectibles that can be purchased for very low cost.

Here are the before pictures for this area:

Not bad eh? The homeowner just want to pull things together and give the room a modern spin with the colors and shades you see in the Moodboard.

There were almost 4 pages of deets for this project, so I will refrain from including them here, but if you see something in this design plan that you love and want to know more about, feel free to comment and I will provide the source!

My goal here was to provide both a Shopping List of items and a list of DIY projects that could be completed at their discretion. Being able to choose between purchasing or making items makes this a flexible plan on many levels and potentially extremely budget friendly. I used pieces she already had such as her window treatments, bookshelves, and a few accessories. No point in letting them go by the wayside, if they don't fit in the plan as is, we shall simply change them and make them work!

Jul
31
2011
Project Image
Project Details

This bed was beautiful in twin size (plans for that are here), so queen should be just as fabulous if not more so, since it's bigger!   I love the understated beauty of this piece with a bit of decorative trim but without the fuss, and the cost (or lack thereof) is mighty enjoyable too!

The Deets

With Finials...

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Saw - Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
Lumber
  • 1 Sheet of 3/4" Plywood or MDF
  • 2 - 2x4 at 6' - optional if you are not using finials
  • 2 - 1x8 at 10'
  • 1 - 1x2 at 10' (3 - runners + 1 lower head side)
  • 1 - 1x2 at 8' (everything else listed for 1x2 cuts)
  • 2 - 2x3 at 10'
  • 6 to 8 - 1x4 at 6' - optional slats for extra support or use without a box spring
Materials
  • 1 1/4" Wood Screws
  • 3" Wood Screws
  • 4 finials if desired. Round Ball Curtain Finials are used in the inspiration bed.
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 - 4x4 at 41" Legs
  • 2 - 4x4 at 30" Legs
  • 1 - 3/4" Ply at 8 3/4" x 55" Upper Headboard Panel
  • 1 - 3/4" Ply at 16 1/2" x 55" Lower Headboard Panel
  • 1 - 3/4" Ply at 4 1/2" x 55" Upper Footboard Panel
  • 1 - 3/4" Ply at 9 3/4" x 55" Lower Footboard Panel
  • 6 - 2x3 at 56 1/2" Head and Foot Board Center Boards
  • 2 - 1x8 at 62" Head and Foot Rails
  • 2 - 1x8 at 82 1/2" Side Rails
  • 2 - 1x2 at 81" Cleats
  • 4 - 1x2 at 55" Upper and Lower Head and Foot Runner Boards (above and below the upper and lower panels)
  • 2 - 1x2 at 9 1/2" Upper Head Side Boards
  • 2 - 1x2 at 17 1/4" Lower Head Side Boards
  • 2 - 1x2 at 5 1/4" Upper Foot Side Boards
  • 2 - 1x2 at 10 1/2" Lower Foot Side Boards
  • 8 - 1x4 at 62" Slats - optional for extra support or use without box spring
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build your Headboard and Foot Board Panels. Use your 3" Screws to fasten the Panels and Boards together and the entire piece will be sandwiched for easy attaching to the legs. You will have a tricky time fastening the Upper and Lower Inserts to the 2x3 in the center, so don't worry too much about that and simply focus on attaching to the legs and lining them up properly. It won't make much difference if the aren't attached so long as the are attached to the side boards and the legs. Use glue, and fasten the center board to one of the two sides (upper or lower) and you will be just fine.

Step 1
Step 2

Fasten the Panels to the legs. Use 3" Screws to fasten from the inside 1x2 running down the sides of each Panel. Fasten all the way down the Panel Length every 3-4 inches, countersink and fasten with glue as well.

Step 2
Step 3

Fasten the Bed Frame in Place, use 3" Screws from inside Head and Foot Board Rail into the Legs. The Side Rails will fasten directly to the Head and Foot Rails, and the Head and Foot Rails to the Legs. Attach the cleats as well. Use 1 1/4" Screws for the cleats and fasten from the inside.

Step 3
Step 4

Add the Top Trim Boards using Glue and 3" Screws. Then if needed add a few slats. This bed is meant for using both a Mattress and Box Spring. If your matress is not a typical width, you will benenfit from adding a few 1x3 slats to ensure it doesn't fall through. Mattresses are supposed to come in fairly standard sizings, but they don't... So this is only if you need them, and isn't required. Fasten slats to the cleats using 1 1/4" wood screws and drill pilot holes for your finials. Screw them down and into place and add your mattress, box spring and bedding...you are done! yahoo.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
31
2011
Project Image
Project Details

The image below shows a high end space using recycled, low end pallets in a most fabulous way. This may very well be the most inexpensive, high style storage solution for this particular use, I have seen yet. The only unfortunate part of this, is that for many of us, these inexpensive or free, recycled pallets, are anything but. In California, you would be hard pressed, or very lucky to get your hands on a few of these...so, if you're like me, and you can't join them...beat em' and fake it!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • Saw
  • Hammer and other Gouging/Banging Devices

 

Lumber
  • 1 - 1x3 at 10' (can also be a 1x4 or a combination of 1x3 and 1x2 for the sides)
  • 1 - 2x2 at 6'
  • 1 - 1x10 at 36" (can also use ply if you have that on hand)
Materials

1 1/2" Wood Screws or Nails

Black, Gray, Light Green or Light Blue, Reddish Brown Craft Paint

Paint Brush for aging (something simple like a 1 1/2" brush will be perfect, and a brush you can use to stencil letters and numbers (can be same brush or a stippling brush)

 

Cut List

2 - 1x3 at 18 1/2" Front and Back Boards

2 - 1x3 at 9 1/4" Sides

4 - 2x2 at 7 1/2" Legs

1 - 1x10 at 17" Bottom

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Begin by Beating or Marking your boards, be sure to avoid a pattern that will look contrived.

Use your hammer, drill even screws and nails will do the job and be sure to do more markings on some boards than others. Less is more here, but some is a definite necessity.

Sand any rough edges and round a few edges or corners here and there using your sander. Create the look or worn and handled often.

Leave any stampings or markings that come on your boards as these will suit or purposes well and should be placed in prominent locations whenever possible! Holding your brush in one hand and board in the other, be sure to turn over on end and cover every side and edge of each board. If you use some of your boards as drying boards or as a place to set your board while painting then you will end up with a few random markings you wouldn't be able to as easily reproduce in your attempt to be random.

Go slow, start with less and build and layer your finish. This type of finish doesn't lend itself to sanding for correction without sanding down quite a bit and beginning again...but just know you can always do that if you need!

 

Step 1
Step 2

Using your stencils and black craft paint, create a seemingly random pattern of letters or numbers to lend to the idea that this was used for commercial purposes and marked for inventory or tracking.

Use a stippling or pouncing motion with your stencils and a very small amount of paint so that you don't get seepage under your stencil.

Once you have your stenciling done and it has dried completely, you will want to gently sand over the painted surfaces to create some wearing. Be very very gentle when doing this so that you still retain the stenciling and don't worry if it doesn't look worn enough after a bit of sanding..you will take care of that with paint in the next steps!

 

Step 2
Step 3

Using the leftover paint on your brush from stenciling, dry brush on your boards with the black. If you need to reload with paint, just be sure to wipe away excess so you are truly brushing with a very light small amount.
 

Step 3
Step 4

Clean out your brush and dry excess wetness while leaving a bit of dampness on your brush. This will help it to have more of a wash affect rather than a paint affect which is what we are looking for in this project.

Using your light gray paint, mix in a touch of blue or green and with a very small amount on your brush, cover the surface, sides, and edges of each board. You want this to be fairly washed down so that you aren't painting a solid color but gently sweeping a gray aged color onto your boards.

 

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Now you will want to create an actual wash, with one small drop of reddish brown and a brush full of water mixed very well and very wet. Lightly wash this over the entire surface of every board, paying special attention to really coat those areas where you may have an excess of color from the previous step. Again maintain a random patter of more or less of the wash, but be sure to hit every area with this. You can see in the images below how water mine was on the plate.
 

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Once your finish has dried you will build this baby!

Using your Drill or Hammer Attach 2x2's in the corners to the bottom board. They will sit flush with the outside edges directly on the corners.

Leave no more than 1/2" between the top of the bottom board and the bottom of the sides, back and front.

Attach your surrounding sides, back and front to the Legs and each other using screws or nails.

 

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Living 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

RyTurner's picture

Creating an Eco-Chic Nursery for Less Part 2 Fabulous Crib Roundup

Choosing Furniture:

Purchasing a crib and additional nursery furniture doesn't mean you have to sacrifice your desire for a healthful and non-toxic environment, in fact quite a few companies specialize in eco-friendly furniture for your little ones. The key is finding those companies that sell environmentally friendly furniture at prices that are economically friendly to your wallet. This isn't always easy...

On the bright side, if you are willing to make most of the additional gear yourself (other than the crib), you will save hundreds of dollars and can allocate some of your savings toward the crib that fits your lifestyle needs.

There are quite a few new and stylish crib designs on the market, and most come in at least 2 color choices. Once you have determined, at least in some part, the direction your color scheme will head you can easily choose the color you desire for your nursery furniture.

If you prefer to purchase second-hand furniture to recycle and reuse rather than purchase new, you will need to keep a mindful eye on the stability of the piece and determine if it needs to be refurbished in any way to make sure it is up to par on safety standards and sturdiness. Please avoid drop-sided cribs, even if your mother swears she raised all 3 of her children in them and every single one of you made it out alive! They will be outlawed for sale by retailers as of next year and the risk is simply not worth it. If your piece needs a new coat of paint, consider some of the color choices and pairs shown below in the new furniture styles.

Above and below are a few of my favorite options available for purchase and in colors that will work well with most color schemes or are just plain fun! You can click on the links below them to view the pricing and to purchase.

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Creating the nursery of your dreams...on a budget.

Yesterday we focused on how to begin the process of designing your dream nursery in Part 1 of Creating an Eco-chic Nursery for Less.  We used fabric swatches as our color palette 'jumping off point', and to broaden your color palette perspective by showing your combinations you might not otherwise have put together.

1. Sahara Crib by Arington. The two-toned crib has made an appearance and it would seem that it has been a big hit among consumers.

Allowing you to incorporate more than one wood tone or painted finish into your room, this is a very modern and stylish choice.

2. Arington Bam Crib and Bassinet in Bamboo. The lightness of the bamboo color is always sure to please, and this particular crib option is actually sold in a pair with the bassinet as well. A great way to stretch your dollar and it even opens up the possibility of housing 2 little ones appropriately, should your kiddos be close in age.

3. Babyletto Modo 3 in 1 Crib. The walnut color of the base of this crib has a very warm and comforting tone to it, and would be pleasing regardless of the choices you make for color in your room. It maintains the modern styling that most of the sustainable and environmentally friendly furniture styles have, and yet has a simplicity that is quite pleasant.

4. Robin Collection Crib by Oeuf. This crib seems to combine a traditional spindle rail with a modern side panel and continues the two-toned trend.

Giving you the best of the past and the present by combing today's style sensibilities with yesterday's favorites.

5. Oeuf Eco Friendly Sparrow Crib in Grey. This crib is hands down the most representative of the direction and style cribs are heading right now. The color is a neutral and rather warm shade of gray which works well with almost any design plans and fabrics you have chosen.

Gray is the newest trend in furniture color and one that I predict will stick around for quite some time... not to mention an extremely sophisticated and stylish choice.

6. Hiya Crib. The classic white crib in a not so classic form, this crib is uber modern and yet made from sustainable materials. With it's boxy shape and wide thick bars, this design, while extremely contemporary, will lend a nice visual shape to your nursery.

7. Bloom Alma Crib. This bright green options and other bold colors are becoming quite popular for cribs and other furniture pieces. If there is a room in your house where you can take a risk such as this, a nursery or toddler is a great place to give it a whirl.

Each of the crib options can be purchased at several online sites that cater to sustainable and environmentally friendly nursery items, and all have matching pieces to complete your look.

Consider mixing and matching styles and colors, if you are daring...the result is sure to please.

Stay tuned...next on the list for creating our Eco-chic Nursery for Less: Choosing Paint Colors.

RyTurner's picture

Tech Confidential: Creating a Transparent Background Without Using Photoshop

Enter Microsoft Office...

Most of us have it, in some form or another...so whether you have a student version or the full blown Office Suite, this technique will work for you.

If you aren't familiar with your Microsoft Office program, visit your start menu and scroll through your Programs or Accessories. From there, you will choose either PowerPoint or Publisher depending on which program your Office Suite happens to have. It will almost definitely have one or the other, or both!

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Photoshop Elements is a paired down program that is a tad more user friendly for us Non-Graphically inclined folks...but let's be honest, even that has a price and a definite learning curve. So what if you want to create graphics or edit photos on the fly and you neither own such a program nor have the time to learn it before you need to have your project finished?

Not to difficult so far, ay? Well not to worry it stays precisely this easy all the way through this tutorial!

So once you have your program open, whichever it is, you will insert your image of choice. For this lesson I will choose an 'easy to see the transformation' image, and I happen to be working with Power Point on my current computer. Truth be told PowerPoint is a newer program for me to be doing this with, and I previously used Publisher 98% of the time, but I don't have it on my current computer and so boo hoo...although Power Point actually seems to do everything Publisher does...AND MORE!

In the image above I have INSERTED the PICTURE I am using in precisely that format...Insert and then Picture, browse for the file and choose it.

Once you have inserted your image you will Click on it to select it, which gives you an additional set of menu options. For PowerPoint, the options appear in the menu bar of the program for Publisher some of the options may also appear as a floating toolbar specifically for making changes and edits to the picture, depending on your settings.

In the image above, for Power Point, I will choose Format which appears after I select the image. Once I am in that menu bar item, I will select the option to Recolor, and then choose the little wand and corner bracket icon for Set Transparent Color and I will select that then click on the gray blue background of my image to remove the background color!

For Publisher it is a bit more direct in that once you select the image (by clicking on it) and once the Picture Edit Toolbar appears you simply click on the icon, then click on the background of your image. It won't very likely say the words Set Transparent Color as mine does for Power Point but the icon is the same. Below is an enlarged image of the icon, so you know what you are looking for.

So now that I have touch the background color with the wand, you can see below how fabulous the image looks!

Now that your image has a transparent background, in order to keep the background Transparent.. you must follow this next set of steps.

You will need to save your image. Right click on the image and your Right Click menu appears. You will scroll down and select 'Save as Picture'.

Assuming you followed the steps as indicated above and managed to save your Image as PNG file, when you are ready to use your image or insert it into a Blog post, it will have your beautiful transparent background an you can overlay it on another image, arrange it in a collage or display it withougt extra 'junk' in the background.

Note: There are some tricky aspects to creating a transparent background that pop up in certain situations, such as if your image has a portion that is white. You will likely find that it will 'transparent' out a bit of your image in a less than desirable way. If this occurs you should consider another course of action, such as a magnetic lasso or cropping tool. If you are interested in how to do some of these things without using Photoshop please speak up and let me know...I will assume you aren't interested if you don't say anything, how's a girl to know....you know?

Once your Browse Folder Opens for you to select a file name, you can type in any name that fits your purpose and then you will change the File Type to PNG.

This is crucial, if you save the file as a JPG or TIF, it most likely won't retain your transparent background. At least not from these programs, you need to save as a PNG to keep it clear...

Jul
30
2011
Project Image
Project Details

So far, we have covered the table and the chair, how about a cute little bench option?

Showcase: Built From These Plans

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Drill
  • **Saw - Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
  • **Kreg Jig - Optional, but makes the build a snap.
Lumber
  • 2 - 1x2 at 8'
  • 1 - 1x3 at 10'
Materials
  • 1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws - if using a Pocket Hole Jig 
  • 1 1/4" Wood Screws
  • 2" Wood Screws
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 - 1x2 at 21" Legs
  • 2 - 1x2 at 10 1/4" Legs
  • 3 - 1x2 at 10" Bench Seat Frame
  • 5 - 1x2 at 19" Bench Seat Frame, Seat, Stretcher, Back Rest
  • 4 - 1x3 at 20 1/2" Bench Seat
  • 1 - 1x3 at 19" Back Rest
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut your legs to size:

Step 1
Step 2

Build and Attach the Bench Seat Frame. Use a pocket hole system to construct the frame, set for 3/4" stock or Use a #8 countersink bit and your2" wood screws to build the frame and to attach use your 1 1/4" wood screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Fasten the Bench Seat in Place. You can elect to use plywood or MDF and Iron on Edge Banding, or you can line up 1x3's and secure them to the frame. To avoid so many screw holes showing , you can use a pocket hole system to join the boards together underneath and then attach as a single unit to the frame. You have a few options for this step please note that joining the boards with a pocket hole system is really more for the benefit of creating a single chair seat piece that can be secured with less frequent visible screw holes, to the frame and isn't really a stability issue. To fasten the Seat to the Bench Base otherwise, use your #8 countersink bit and 2" wood screws from the top and down into the frame and legs. Use 2 screws per seat slat on either side and fasten to either the frame or the leg depending upon which slat you are securing.

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the Aprons, Back Rests, and Stretchers. Use your pocket hole system set for 3/4" stock or 2" screws and your #8 countersink bit to pre-drill and fasten the stretchers and back rests, and use 1 1 /4" wood screws to attach the aprons from underneath and on the inside of the bench seat frame.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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Worm Juice Tea and a Love Hate Relationship

The forsythia is about to make a very grand entrance as you can see above, she is well on her way!

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Project Image

Spring has arrived, whether I am ready for it, or not! I have such a love hate relationship with springtime as I love the onset of the beautiful blooms and the return of the sunshine…but I could honestly do without the allergies and the rain. Oh the endless seeming rain, that really only comes intermittently but when it does, it’s a downright windy deluge. I know the rain is important, and it definitely makes for healthy beautiful green plants, but I personally need the sun! N.E.E.D it!

I am seriously considering beginning to vermicompost here in the next week, ew. But I know these little babies will just love the worm juice tea as they say, ew again. Double ew, actually. Beauty is sacrifice, a well known fact, just don’t suppose they were referring to the serious ick factor associated with creating true beauty in my yard, given my serious lack of space…Worms seem to be the best option for the least amount of money.

Thanks to my fab readers and friends who hang out on my FB Fanpage and chat about all things design, gardening, décor, and DIY…I have a fabulous list of resources that I will pull from, to create my very own worm garden. Of course I will document the process every step of the way! Stay tuned, and maybe even follow along by making your own worm juicer! Ew

Jul
30
2011
Project Image
Project Details

We are back, and ready to start putting this beauty together!

Please click here to visit Part 1 of this dresser plan for constructing the components.

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

See Part 1 for Tools

Lumber

See Part 1 for Lumber

Materials

See Part 1 for materials

Cut List

See Part 1 for cut list

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

You have already constructed your Base, now you will need to begin by fastening the bottom Drawer Supports and Panels to each other and then the base. You can see in the diagram below, how the pieces will fit together. You can attach the Bottom Supports to the Base and then slide in the Panels, but you will need a very tight fit and it might be wise to simply set up the supports and panels, screw them together, and then transfer them to the Base and attach. If you are working alone (as I usually am) this will be tricky to do. I suggest you align the Supports on the Base and clamp them down according to the dimensions shown below and use your middle panel as a placeholder, to ensure you are leaving just the right amount of space between the supports, mark the base and remove the middle panel so that you can flip the base over to attach the supports.

Fasten the Supports and the Panels to the Base from underneath using 2" Screws, fasten the Panels to the Supports using 2" Screws from the outside of the Panels, near the bottom and Use 1 1/4" Screws to fasten from the Edge of the Supports down into the Bottom Insert of the Panels (the 1x2's you attached in the previous post).

 

 

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Attach the Top to the Cleats. Use 1 1/4" Screws.

Then insert remaining Drawer Supports. They should fit tightly into their designated spaces. If you have trouble getting one in it's space, sand down the top and bottom edge of the outside edges a tiny bit until it fits. You want it to fit tightly, so if you struggle a bit to get it in, that is perfect. If it is a tad loose, that will probably be fine also, just be sure you properly secure it to the Panels and if necessary, you can use a 1 1/4" Screw to tack it down at an angle to the insert it is resting on.

Secure the Back in place using 1" Screws. You can fasten it to the Panels and the Supports if you like, just keep in mind that if you don't countersink, those attachments will be visible. since it is the Back...you may not care.

 

 

Step 2
Step 3

Attach your Face Frame: use 1 1/4" Finish Nails to secure in place. It should hang over the side Panels a tad on the outside edges and will accommodate Trim in the next step. It will sit right on the Base, just as the Main body does and will be flush with the top of the Panels. Line the Stiles of the Frame up with the Legs. Secure to the Panels, and the drawer supports with finish nails, and the base from underneath with 2" screws.

Once your Frame is in place attach the trim.

 

 

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

You should now be ready to slide your Drawers in! If you have trouble with your drawers gliding, sand the edges of your runner down. You can also use a bit of wax on them if you need a extra gliding/sliding power. I don't recommend using anything you wouldn't want to get on your clothing. I think you can ensure proper gliding by sanding well and rounding corners a bit.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
30
2011

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

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