Dec
19
2011
Project Image

THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED! WINNER ANNOUNCED HERE!

DETAILS AND RULES FOR ENTRY: To ENTER:

1. You MUST be a Follower, Friend, or Subscriber of this site, I don't care which as long as it's one or the other! This is a must because I will need the winner to be paying attention when the announcement is made so that I can promptly get this prize to them!

2. You MUST Leave a Comment on this post telling me which manner you follow along AND tell me what you would be most excited to spend this on: food, gifts, decor, or holiday related goodness. Please also include your email address so that I can contact you promptly upon winning.

ADDITIONAL ENTRIES:

3. SHARE this giveaway on FB, Twitter, or G+ and COMMENT AGAIN telling me you did so!

PRIZE: 2 - $25 Gift Cards ($50 in GC's total!) and 2 - One Day Passes to Shop in case you aren't already a Sam's Club Member. RESTRICTIONS: Must be 18 years of age and a US Resident (this is for Sam's club, so being able to shop there, might be reasonable?)

WINNER: Will be drawn at random from the comments on this post, and this Giveaway will close at mindnight PST on Tuesday December 20, 2011. The winner will be notified via a post announcing the winner Wednesday morning and via email, and this prize will be overnighted to you from me that very day!

Disclosure: Sam's Club has partnered with bloggers such as me for hosting a holiday giveaway. I may have been compensated in some way shape or form to participate in hosting this giveaway and to sponsor this post, however all opinions are expressly my own! Proof is in the pudding here friends, browse my archives to see... I was not told what to say or purchase for this Giveaway, and Sam's Club believes that consumers and bloggers are free to form their own opinions and share them in their own words. Sam’s Club policies align with WOMMA Ethics Code, FTC guidelines and social media engagement recommendations.

Connect with Sam’s Club and Save: Access ‘Savings Made Simple’ however it’s convenient for you. See http://www.samsclub.com/connect for all the ways to stay up to date.

Build 
TDC 
Celebrate 
Living 
Dec
19
2011
Project Image

This is an amazing project from one of my Blogger Buddies joining us all the way from Dublin! She has been featured here quite a few times since my blog began 2 years ago, and this time she is back with the most stunning Paper + Craft project I have EVER seen. Mind blowing... to be sure! You should absolutely ead over and take a peak around her site and also get the instructions to make one of these yourself.

Celebrate 
Dec
19
2011
Project Image

I know how you fine folks love tools... me too! So head on over to The DIY Club and see how I used this fine friend and what I used it to build... I know you love a cool new toy, perhaps this is the one for you? Well you will just have to visit me to find out!

Build 
The DIY Club 
Dec
17
2011
Project Image
Project Details

This armoire is great with its clean lines and simplicity… The large pieces should make for a quick and easy build, too! It can be used as a pantry, an organized entertainment center, or for clothing storage. Extra shelves or a clothes hanging rod can be added, also!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Tape Measure

Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter (A table saw would be best!)

Drill

Square

Sander

Kreg Jig

Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

3 sheets ¾” plywood

1 sheet ¼” lauan or hardboard

1 – 2x2 at 8’

1 – 2x2 at 6’

Materials

1¼” pocket hole screws

2” screws

Small nails or 1” brads

Countersink bit for Drill

Hinges

Knobs or Pulls for Doors

Shelf Pins (Optional, if adding extra shelving)

Wood filler

Sandpaper

Wood glue

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 21” x 67” ¾” plywood – Sides

3 – 21” x 42½” ¾” plywood – Fixed Shelf**, Top, Bottom

1 – 21” x 25½” ¾” plywood – Lower Divider

2 – 21” x 21¼” ¾” plywood – Small Shelves

1 – 22” x 67” ¾” plywood – Door

1 – 21 7/8” x 67” ¾” plywood – Door

10 – 11” x 18” ¾” plywood – Door Panels

2 – 2x2x 41” – Leg Frame

3 – 2x2x19” – Leg Frame, Support

4 – 2x2x8” - Legs

** If you are going to add extra shelves, you will need to buy one ½ sheet of ¾” plywood. The shelves will be adjustable so they will be approximately ¼” shorter than the fixed shelves to allow for the shelf pins.

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides, fixed shelf, top, and bottom. With the Keg jig set for ¾” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the shelf, top, and bottom. Assemble with spacing as indicated and make sure the cabinet is square.

If you are going to add adjustable shelves, the shelf pin holes would need to be drilled during this step. The holes will need to be drilled approximately 3" in from the front and the back on each side, and evenly spaced. The spacing will be determined by the amount of adjustment you want in these shelves. In other words, the holes could be spaced at 4" if you want the shelves to be spaced at 4" increments. It is a good idea to invest in a shelf pin jig (or make your own) that has all of the holes evenly spaced. You just line it up, drill, and go!

The lower picture shows how these shelves will look.

Remember that the adjustable shelves will be at least 1/4" shorter than the fixed shelf.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the leg frame. Set your Kreg jig for 1½” material before drilling the holes. Center the support piece and screw into place. Set your cabinet on top and allow ¾” from the front of the frame to the front of the cabinet (for the doors) and ¼” from the back of the frame to the back of the cabinet (for the back). It may be easier to attach the cabinet to the frame from the inside. Drill countersunk holes into the cabinet bottom over the frame and attach with 2” screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the vertical divider and the small shelves. Set your Kreg jig for 3/4" material and drill pocket holes in ends for assembly. It would be easier to attach the small shelves to the divider before attaching to the cabinet. Make sure the pocket holes in the divider face into the larger opening and not toward the small shelves to make it easier to drive the screws in.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back from the ¼” lauan or hardboard. If you are using this armoire as an entertainment center, you may want to drill large holes for power cords before attaching to the back. Attach with small nails or a brad nailer.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the doors. Note that one door will be 1/8” narrower than the other door to allow for a gap in the center. This makes it easier to close the doors. If the pieces were cut exactly the same size, they may rub in the center and it creates a lot of extra work to try to sand the edges evenly to make it fit!
Cut the pieces for the panels. The easiest way to assemble this would be to completely sand all pieces and draw a grid on each door. The panel pieces will be spaced 2” from the top, bottom, sides, and in between the other panels EXCEPT for the narrower door… The panels will be spaced 2” from the top, bottom, and in between the other panels but will be 1 7/8” from the center. Glue the panel pieces in place and secure with brad nails.
Install the hinges on the door, then attach to the cabinet. The type of hinges to use is a matter of personal preference. Concealed hinges can be used but I find them hard to line up.

Add your knobs or handles.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
16
2011
Project Image

You know my motto: if it's different and unique, I very likely adore it... and that is precisely the case with these happy holiday decorations in pink!

Celebrate 
Sources

Clockwise from top left:
1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 / 9 / 10 / 11 / 12

Dec
16
2011
Project Image

This fabulous candy buffet in green was super easy to throw together and with the rock candy recipe I shared a few days ago, has that little bit of something special to make the whole thing extremely budget friendly yet totally glamorous for your unsuspecting guests this holiday season!

Various apothecary jars are perfect for the occasion, but if that isn't an option vases and bowls from IKEA or your local Dollar Store (or both) are the perfect solution!

Living 
Dec
15
2011
Project Image
Project Details

Wow was all I could say when I first saw this chair! I love the arc detail! The arcs can be cut from a template (details below) in case you decide to build more than one! I’m going to build mine using plywood scraps and leave the edges exposed! Can’t wait to see how that turns out!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Tape Measure

Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter

Square

Sander

Kreg Jig

Lumber

1-1x8 at least 22” long

2-2x2 at 8’

2-2x8 at least 32” long

2’x2’ piece of ½” plywood

Scrap ¼” plywood for arc template at least 7” wide x 32” long

Materials

2½” screws

2½” pocket hole screws

Countersink bit for Drill

Router with Flush Trim Bit

Foam and Fabric for Seat

Stapler

Wood filler

Sandpaper

Wood glue

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2-2x2 at 15” – Legs

1-2x2 at 21½” – Front

2-2x2 at 21 1/8” – Seat Frame Sides

2-2x2 at 18 ½” – Seat Frame Support and Back

2-2x8 at 32”-Arcs

1-1x8 at 21 ½” – Back

1-21 ½ x 22 5/8 piece of ½” plywood - Seat

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces as listed for the front and legs. Assemble with pocket holes and glue. Don’t forget to set your Kreg jig for 1½” stock!

Step 1
Step 2

Cut pieces for seat frame and assemble with pocket holes and glue. Space the center support piece as indicated. Attach to front frame.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the arcs using a template.

To make a template:
Draw your piece on a scrap of ¼” lauan or hardboard. Cut it out with a jigsaw and smooth any rough edges with a sander. Check the fit of the template against any pieces already built. For example, if it is a back chair leg template, the chair should already be constructed to this point. Any adjustments that need to be made can be made to the template before cutting the actual lumber. Drill a hole in the template for hanging and label it for later use.

To cut out your piece with a template:
Trace the template onto your piece of lumber and roughly cut out the shape making sure to stay outside of the lines. Attach the template to the piece with strong double-sided tape. Using a router and a flush trim bit, make sure you set the height of the bit so the guide will run along the edge of the template. Cut around the template. Depending on the length of your bit, you may have to make more than one pass around the template. In other words, if the piece you are cutting is 1½” deep and your bit is 1” deep, you will cut the piece around the template. Adjust the depth of the bit, then make another pass with the router. The guide bearing will not follow the template the second time but will follow the piece that has already been cut. Clear as mud? Here is a great demo on how to do this: http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-use-router-templates-and-bearing...

Using a template will make your pieces more consistent and uniform, and you’ll have it in case you decide to build more than one!

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the arcs to the chair frame making sure the front of the arc is level with the front leg. Drill holes into the frame using a countersink bit and screw from the inside. You can also drive a screw through the front of the leg into the end of the arc, if desired.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut pieces as indicated for rear legs. Cut angles as indicated and drill a pocket hole in the top end of each leg. Don’t forget – you will have a right and a left! Line up the leg with the arc making sure the leg spacing at the floor is approximately 25 7/8” and the height from the floor to the top of the seat frame is 15”. It is more important to have the seat height correct than the leg spacing. Drill holes inside the seat frame with a countersink bit and attach the legs from the inside.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the back from the 1x8 material. Drill pocket holes in each end. Two at each end should be sufficient but if you are more comfortable with three, do it! Attach the back making it as flush as possible with the front of the arcs.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the plywood for the seat and cover with foam and fabric. The thickness of the foam is your choice… I would use 2” foam and cover it with Dacron (upholstery batting) before I cover it with fabric. After the chair finishing is complete, attach the seat to the frame by drilling countersunk holes into the bottom of the chair support and secure with screws. You could also drill holes into the bottom of the front and back of the frame and fasten it in the same manner.
You can also attach the seat directly to the chair and make a separate cushion if you want to swap it out without taking the seat apart.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
15
2011
Project Image

These LOVE bunting cards are so adorable and as far as I'm concerned can absolutely be used year round! Don't you agree? Yahoo!

DOWNLOAD HERE

Celebrate 
Dec
15
2011
Project Image

It's been a very busy week here at the house of TDC and there is something I have learned in the process.... that it's not only ok to be yourself, but that you really can't excel at anything unless you are honest about who you are and where you have been. That you can't know where you are going until you stop to pay attention to what you want. Because what you want, should dictate your every move.

Living 
TDC 
Sources
Dec
14
2011
Project Image
Project Details

I love the look of this collection, with the planked panels and strap hinges! Depending on the finish you use, this could have either a rustic or modern appearance!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Around $40

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Tape Measure

Saw: Jig, Circular, or Miter

Square

Sander

Kreg Jig

Brad nailer

Lumber

1/2 sheet of 3/4" plywood

1/4 sheet of 1/4 plywood

6 - 1x3 at 8'

1 - 1x2 at 6' or a scrap piece at least 18" long

Materials

1 1/4" pocket hole screws

1 1/4" brad nails

Drawer pull or Door Handle

2 - strap hinges

Wood filler

Sanding Supplies

Wood glue

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

1 - 1x2 at 17 3/4" -Front Frame

6 - 1x3 at 12 1/2" -Door Frame, Side Frames

5 - 1x3 at 14 1/4" -Door

1 - 1x3 at 17 3/4" -Front Frame

10 - 1x3 at 18 1/2" -Side Panels

2 - 1x3 at 19 1/4" -Door Frame

6 - 1x3 at 26 1/4" -Side Frames, Front Frame

1 - 1/4" ply at 21 3/4" x 22 3/4" -Back

2 - 3/4" ply at 17 1/2" x 21 1/4" -Shelf & Bottom

1 - 3/4" ply at 18 3/4" x 23 1/4" -Top

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the pieces as listed for the sides. You should have four 1x3 pieces at 12 1/2" which will be the tops and bottoms for each side, four 1x3 pieces at 26 1/4" for the sides of the frames, and ten 1x3 pieces at 18 1/2" for the panels. I like to drill all of my pocket holes first, then assemble.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut and attach shelf and bottom. As a note, the top of the board used for the bottom should be flush with the top of the lower rail on the sides, see drawing.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the back from the 1/4" material. Attach with glue and nails (or a brad nailer) after making sure the cabinet is square.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the door frame pieces. I like to assemble these frames as one piece (face frame) rather than attach them individually, so use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Attach to front with glue and nails (or a brad nail).

Step 4
Step 5

Cut and attach top. The top will overhang the front and sides by 1/4". It can be attached by using a brad nailer and fastening directly through the top into the sides and the front frame or by using 1" angle brackets.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the door: you should have two 1x3 pieces at 12 1/2" for the top and bottom of the frame, two 1x3 pieces at 19 1/4" for the sides and five 1x3 pieces at 14 1/4" for the panel. The door should have an 1/8" gap on all sides between it and the frame.

Step 6
Step 7

Attach the hinges and the knob. I find it easier to attach the hinges to the door first, then line it up and use shims to help keep it in place while attaching the hinge to the frame but use whatever method you feel comfortable with is fine.

Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.

If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly on the cabinet and shelves, and brush-on poly for the top for added durability.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Kiddos 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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