January 2012

New Year New Art: How to Make Your Own Home Decor Artwork

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

When purchasing art isn't an option or you aren't able to find just the right thing, creating your own is entirely possible even if you have never touched a paint brush... I promise!

Here is what you will need to create something similar to the example painting above...

Materials:

16 x 20 canvas
Brushes - I used 2 sizes, one larger for the background color and one smaller for trees
DecoArt Acrylic Paint Colors in:
- Titaniam White,
- Lemonade
- Sage Green
- Avocado Dip
- Sea Breeze
- Kelly Green
- Slate Gray
- Black

To create the background color we are going to visually divide the canvas into 3 sections horizontally and 2 sections vertically. Each of the 3 horizontal sections (top, middle, bottom) will have one color designation and that color will be more concentrated on one side than the other (either left or right). Be sure you wrap the color for a particular section around the edges of the canvas as well (sides, top, and bottom). You don't want to have white edges, it will look weird.

The top section of the canvas will be lemonade and will be more concentrated on the right than the left. I began in the upper right hand corner with only the lemonade color (no white) and simply used a back and forth sweeping stroke, left and right and left and right, until the paint has covered the canvas on the portion I am focusing on in the image above. You can consider yourself finished with a step when the canvas isn't showing through and the texture is that of the paint rather than the canvas. I pulled the color over to the upper left hand corner in this step, but as you can see I allowed the color to concentrate on the right side and mixed the lemonade with white for the left side.

The middle section is going to be sage and once the top section was sufficiently covered with lemonade and white, I begain to add a few drops of sage and white for the section just below it, and concentrated the color more on the right side than the left. When you move to a new section, be sure to bring the color up and into the section above it to blend them so that there aren't distinct sections here. This should be subtle folks, and not crazy color blocking.

I put the paint directly on the canvas because this is easier for me, and it seems to get the job done well. You can see in the center image that the sage/white section is very light and very well blended (more white than sage for the middle section). In fact it's so light that I altered the photograph for you (far right) so you can actually see the brush strokes and sectioning here, but know that light with a touch of sage is our goal and that we will want more sage on the right side of the section than the left.

The bottom section is going to be Sea Breeze and this time we will concentrate the color on the left hand side! Continue with the same back and forth horizontal brush strokes and continue until a

For this step I got a little crazy and decided to add Avocado and White to the bottom section on the right hand side and blended it up into the middle right section a tad as well.

Once you are satisfied that your background is well blended and doesn't look color block-ish, you can move on to the trees! Yahoo.

To begin with the trees you will want to add a couple of drops of Slate Gray to a small dish and then add a few drops of water so that it's more watery and a bit easier to layer.

Once you have your paint to a moderately watery consistency, paint a few tree trunks and be sure they extend down the bottom edge as well.

Begin adding foliage by using a small circular brush stroke. Add this to the tops of the trunks and then in a few places down toward the bottoms. Add another trunk or so if you need to.

Now we will do the same thing only we will add a drop of black to darken our color slightly and we will only place this darker colored foliage here and there. Think of creating texture and depth here with layers of different colors. Still continue with small circular brush strokes and sweep in a circular pattern to apply and blend.

Add a drop of Kelly Green and again add just a bit with this new color in a few different places.

Now add 2 drops of avocado and again add in a few places (image on the left). Once you have all 4 colors layered you will want to use just a bit of water and maybe just the slightest bit of white to go over the whole tree section and blend and lighten any areas that are much too noticeably dark and should blend a bit better (image on the right).

That's it folks... you totally did it! Don't forget, painting is sort of a no brainer because if you mess up you can simply paint over with white and begin again. Don't be afraid to experiment... It's so much fun.

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

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Color Connection: Peachy Keen

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

These peach fuzzy babies make the most fabulous color story... This gray, driftwood and coral color scheme would be amazing for a nursery, craft room, or bedroom and very likely would be loved by girls and boys, both little and big! I don't foresee many issues from the masculine side of our families since these coral hues are more orangish than pink, and are such a fabulous way to compromise on a softer pairing with those neutrals.

For other Color Connection articles, click here.

Sources

Color Connection Layout by Pugly Pixel

Image via

Note

Color Connection

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Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Carolina Chair for Kids

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

The most fabulous little person chair to go with the most fabulous little people's craft tables (plans for the tables are here, here, and here).

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

2 – 1x4 at 3’
1 – 1x3 at 4’
1 – 1x2 scrap at 1’
2 – 1x2 scraps at 13-1/4” each
2 – ¾” square dowels at 3’
Scrap of ¾” plywood at 13” x 13-3/4”
Scrap of ¼” lauan or hardboard for back leg template (4” x 26”)

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” screws
Small nails or 1” brads
Router with flush trim bit
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x4 at 26” – Back Legs
4 – 1x3 at 11-1/2” – Aprons
1 – 1x2 at 11-1/2” – Upper Back
2 – 1x2 at 13-1/4” – Front Legs
5 – ¾” square dowels at 11-1/4” – Spindles
1 - 13” x 13-3/4” of ¾” plywood - Seat

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Draw out the back leg on the piece of lauan or hardboard to create a template.

To make a template:

Draw your piece on a scrap of ¼” lauan or hardboard. Cut it out with a jigsaw and smooth any rough edges with a sander. Check the fit of the template against any pieces already built. For example, if it is a back chair leg template, the chair should already be constructed to this point. Any adjustments that need to be made can be made to the template before cutting the actual lumber. Drill a hole in the template for hanging and label it for later use.

To cut out your piece with a template:

Trace the template onto your piece of lumber and roughly cut out the shape making sure to stay outside of the lines. Attach the template to the piece with strong double-sided tape. Using a router and a flush trim bit, make sure you set the height of the bit so the guide will run along the edge of the template. Cut around the template. Depending on the length of your bit, you may have to make more than one pass around the template. In other words, if the piece you are cutting is 1½” deep and your bit is 1” deep, you will cut the piece around the template. Adjust the depth of the bit, then make another pass with the router. The guide bearing will not follow the template the second time but will follow the piece that has already been cut. Clear as mud? Here is a great demo on how to do this: http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-use-router-templates-and-bearing-guides/index.html

Using a template will make your pieces more consistent and uniform, and you’ll have it in case you decide to build more than one!

To remove the adhesive, use a product like Un-du which will not harm the material you are using.

Place the template on the 1x4s for the back legs and cut out.

Step 2

Cut out the 1x2 for the upper back and the 1x3 for the back apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the back pieces. Attach to back legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the spacing indicated. The back side of these pieces should be flush with the back edge of the legs.

Step 3

Cut out the pieces for the remaining aprons and the front legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown. Don’t forget to check for square!

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the spindles from the ¾” dowels. Drill one pocket hole in each end of the back edge. Attach to the chair with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the spacing indicated.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut ¾” x ¾” notches at each end of the back to allow for the back legs. Attach to the seat frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments

Weekly Wrap Party

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

It's been a pretty exciting week here at the house of TDC, with lot's of crafting, building, and streamlining going on. Many of my projects have been 'behind the scenes' tasks, but I promise to share them with you in good time!

The most exciting and major project in the works at the moment has been the Master Bedroom Makeover! So much to share, I hope you will join me along the way!

Let's chat about some of this weeks highlights, shall we?

DESIGN: I shared my Design Plan for the Master Bedroom Makeover and immediately set to work on the 87 projects that will go into the finished room including my most successful purchase of new bedding!

DIY: We made a fabulous wall art display from Paper and Foam, as part of the Master Makeover, and our new Calendar Page for February was published! Be sure to download yours before we move on to March!

CELEBRATE: We had a bit of Holiday Fun with a round up of 16 Handmade Valentine Decor Ideas!

BUILDERS SHOWCASE: We enjoyed a most fabulous tour of Jill's newly built Cottage Play Kitchen!

PLAN INDEX: And last but not least of course we added 3 new plans to our Plan Index: the Ryland Entryway Storage Unit, the Pocket 2 Drawer Desk/Console, and the Tall Jewelry Armoire!

What a fabulously productive week! Can't wait to share more from my master makeover and my most recent building projects!

Note

Comments

Builders Showcase: Cottage Kitchen

Submitted by jilljanae /

Thank you SO much for making the plans. My girls are 7 and 2 and they haven't stopped playing with it. My husband decided he wanted to do the peak in the roof- I think it's way cute. I used beadboard wall paper, it worked out really well. For the oven door, I sandwiched a peice of glass from a 8x10 pic frame between boards. We made it 4 inches taller and 3 inches wider, and the hutch part is 6 inches taller, I think. I'm glad we did, it is perfect!

Built From These Plans:

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Cottage Kitchen Part 1

Estimated Cost:

The best part- I spent $11 dollars on wood and maybe $30 or 40 on parts and peices. I guess it pays to have
way too many peices of lumber in the garage!

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Tall Jewelry Armoire

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

For those ladies who require more space for jewels, here is a taller version of the jewelry armoire. This wall-mount armoire also uses standard mirror tiles found at any big-box store. A shelf could be inserted as desired and this cabinet could be used for a myriad of things! The options are up to you!

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Tall Jewelry Armoire

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Kreg Jig
Router
Chisel
Hammer
Square
Sander

Lumber

1 – 1x4 at 8’
1 – 1x3 at 8’
1 –piece of ¾” plywood 14-3/4” x 28-1/2”

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
Rabbeting bit for the router to make a rabbet 3/8” wide x 1 /4” deep
2 – 12” x 12” mirror tiles
Hinges
Handle or latch for front
Glass adhesive or silicone caulk
Magnetic or clip catch for door
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x4 at 30”– Sides
2 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Top & Bottom
1 – 14-3/4” x 28-1/2” of ¾” plywood - Back
2 – 1x3 at 30” – Door Frame Sides
3 – 1x3 at 11-1/4” – Door Frame Top & Bottom

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the cabinet sides, top, and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end of the top and bottom. Secure the top and bottom to the sides as shown with 1-1/4” pocket screws and glue. Check for square.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the back flush with the frame back using 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the door frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the top, center, and bottom frame pieces. Assemble as shown and check for square. Using a router and the rabbeting bit, cut a 3/8” wide x 1 /4” deep rabbet in the back of each opening of the door frame. Use a chisel and hammer to square the corners. Insert the mirrors into the openings to check for fit. Secure with mirror adhesive or silicone caulk. Add hinges, the door catch, and the handle or knob. Insert hooks, as desired.

To mount to a wall - Drill countersunk holes into the back and mount with 2" screws directly though at least one stud.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post please PIN IT and STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

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Free Printables: February 2012 Calendar

Submitted by RyTurner / Zucchini & Co

I could not be more excited to share the next installment in our Calendar Series with you all (to see January's click here)! Melissa is so very talented and I am so proud to have her on my team! I hope you will take the time to visit her Etsy store and leave comments for her on these posts expressing your overwhelming adoration for her... I know I shall...

As usual, we have a few different options for you including PC and Phone Wallpaper for these fine specimens!

DOWNLOAD HERE - Print

DOWNLOAD HERE - iPhone

DOWNLOAD HERE - 1280 x 1024

DOWNLOAD HERE - 1680 x 1100

Note

If you enjoyed this post please PIN IT and STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Comments

New Year New Medallion Wall Art for the Master Bedroom

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

I absolutely fell in love with the ceiling medallion wall art display I added to the Master Bedroom Mood Board I created as part of the Apartment Guide: New Year New Style Blogger Challenge, but as luck would have it, those fabulous things aren't exactly inexpensive... especially for a series of them on the wall and a budget of no more than $150 total. When in doubt... think paper craft! And so I did...

You may remember this Holiday Craft I shared with you all. Yyou may also remember that I mentioned how I thought they might look good year round, and as it turns out, they do!

This project cost no more than $6 in poster paper and thin foam 'paper'. I thought a few different shades of yellow would be best and my local craft store only offered that if I was willing to mix mediums, so of course I was. The thin foam medallions are kind of fabulous I have to say. They feel a tad less fragile and would open the doors for paint or easy cleaning, which is important to me.

I used the tutorial from Craft-Werk found here for creating the medallions and the sizes I chose for this project were 14", 9" 7" and 4 1/2", which were mainly determined based on the paper and foam sizes I purchased. Each star requires 6 squares and so my tendency was to determine the length of the shortest side of my material and divide it by 2 and used that dimension as my size for the squares.

Easy Peasy and fairly decent impact for pennies on the dollar.

Let's take a look at our running tab so far:

$150 Budget

-$69 Duvet Cover
-$6 Medallion Wall Art

= $75 Remaining... Stay tuned, more fun to come!

I still have lot's of big projects and accessorizing to do, yahoo!

Apartment Guide as your Go To Resource:

Whether you're living, looking or moving Apartment Guide offers how-to tips for making the most of your space on a budget.
Ready to redecorate your home but short on cash? Apartment Guide can help you find inexpensive decorating ideas for how to update an area or room without spending a lot of money.
If you’re ready for a whole new space or are looking to move, Apartment Guide has the photos, floor plans, features and tips to help you find the perfect apartment community.
“Like” Apartment Guide on Facebook at Facebook.com/apartmentguideor follow them on Twitter @AptGuidefor real-time tips and updates on making the most of your space.
Wondering how to make your new space your own? Apartment Guide has tips for how to decorate your apartment on a dime.

Disclosure Statement:

Apartment Guide and owner Consumer Source, Inc. partnered with bloggers such as me to participate in their monthly blogger programs. As part of that program, I received compensation. They did not tell me what to purchase or what to say about the products used, and believe that consumers and bloggers are free to form their own opinions and share them in their own words. Consumer Source’s policies align with WOMMA Ethics Code, FTC guidelines and social media engagement recommendations.

Note

Comments

16 Handmade Valentine Decor Ideas

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Sweet and simple, these handmade Valentine's Day Decor ideas are perfect for adding a little sentiment to your home.

1 / 2 / 3 / 4

5 / 6 / 7 / 8

9 / 10 / 11 / 12

13 / 14 / 15 / 16

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Crate & Barrel Inspired Pocket Collection Two-Drawer Desk

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

We covered the tower here and the one drawer pocket desk here, and now.... the two drawer desk! This would be a fabulous entryway console table as well, with storage for keys and wallets!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

2 – 2x2 at 6’
1 – 1x6 at 8’
2 – 1x3 at 6’
2 –1x2 at 6’
½ sheet of ¾” plywood
2 - Scraps of ¼” plywood measuring 17-1/8” x 17-1/2”

Materials

1 ½” pocket hole screws
1¼” pocket hole screws
1 ¼” screws
Small nails or 1¼” brads
Countersink bit for Drill
Edge banding, optional
2 sets drawer slides - 16"
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 29-1/2” – Legs
2 – 1x6 at 17” – Sides
1 – 1x6 at 37” – Back
2 – 1x2 at 37” – Front Supports
2 – 1x2 at 17” – Supports
1 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Supports
4 – 1x3 at 17-1/8” – Drawer Boxes
4 – 1x3 at 16” – Drawer Boxes
2 – 17-1/8” x 17-1/2” of ¼” plywood – Drawer Bottoms
1 – 3-3/4” x 18-3/8” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Front
1 – 3-3/4” x 18-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Front
1 – 20” x 40” of ¾” plywood - Top

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws, making sure the face of the sides is flush with the face of the legs.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws making sure the face of the back is flush with the back of the legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front supports. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The top support will need to be positioned so it is flush with the top of the legs. The lower support will be located 4” below the top support. See drawing.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. The longer support will be in the middle. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side supports and in one end of the middle support. The front of the middle support will be located ¾” back from the face of the lower front support. Secure with a countersunk 1-1/4” screw from the bottom of the front support. See Drawing.

Step 5

** If using edge banding, apply it to the exposed edges of the drawer fronts and top before assembly**

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces and construct the drawers as shown. The bottoms will be attached with glue and brad nails. Install the drawer slides 3/4" back from the front edge of the lower support to allow for the drawer front. Make any adjustments necessary.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. One of the fronts is 1/8” shorter than the other to allow for a 1/8” gap. Cut the notch in the center of each drawer front with a jigsaw. Shim the drawer fronts in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and fasten to the drawer boxes with 1-1/4” screws from the inside.