Feb
29
2012
Project Image

I needed a little something between my upper windows and the top of my headboard, and I figured a typographical paper craft was just the thing. I chose a word that is fairly standard vocabulary for me (If you know me, you aren't very likely surprised...) and created templates from 8 1/2" x 11" paper. The letters are cut from standard poster board stock in a metallic bronzey gold color (I think the back side was actually silver) and was purchased from my local crafty store! Easy Peasy... 

To Download Simply Click on the Letters of Choice:

A / B / C / D / E / F / G / H / I / J / K / L / M

To Download Simply Click on the Letters of Choice:

N / O / P / Q / R / S / T / UV / W / X / Y / Z

 

Note

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Feb
28
2012
Project Image
Project Details

This project is quite the beauty. Strong traditional style and amazing functionality, this fine piece of work is sure to serve any need for storage and display you might have, or might even think of having! 

The Deets

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 Full Sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 Sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 4’ or scrap at least 25” long
  • 1 – 1x6 at 4’ or scrap at least 25” long
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • Drawer Handles or knobs
  • Shelf pins (for adjustable shelves)
  • Edge banding for the plywood
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 17-1/4” x 35” of ¾” plywood – Console Sides
  • 6 – 1x2 at 17-1/4” – Shelf Supports
  • 1 – 1x2 at 26-1/2” – Back Spacer
  • 3 – 17-1/4” x 26-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Console Shelves
  • 3 – 1x2 at 25” – Console Frame
  • 1 – 1x4 at 25” (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) – Console Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 35” – Console Frame
  • 1 – 28” x 35” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Back
  • 1 – 18-3/4” x 28” of ¾” plywood – Console Top
  • 2 – 11-1/4” x 47-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Hutch Sides
  • 2 – 11-1/4” x 26-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Hutch Shelves, Fixed
  • 2 – 11-1/4” x 26-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Hutch Shelves, Adjustable
  • 1 – 1x6 at 25” – Hutch Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 25” – Hutch Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 47-1/4” – Hutch Frame
  • 1 – 28” x 47-1/4” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Hutch Back
  • 1 – 13-3/4” x 28” of ¾” plywood – Hutch Top
  • 4 – 9-1/2” x 24” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Boxes
  • 4 – 9-1/4” x 14-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Boxes
  • 4 – 2-3/4” x 24” of ¾” plywood – Small Console  & Hutch Drawer Boxes
  • 2 – 2-3/4” x 14-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Small Console Drawer Box
  • 2 – 2-3/4” x 8” of ¾” plywood – Small Hutch Drawer Box
  • 3 – 16” x 24” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 1 – 8” x 24” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 11-1/2” x 24-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 3-1/2” x 24-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Small Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 28” Baseboard Trim or Door Casing – Upper and Lower Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the console sides, shelf supports and back spacer. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the back spacer only. Attach the supports to the sides as indicated in the drawing with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Attach the back spacer as indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the shelves.  Attach to the underside of the supports with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and attach to the console with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the console frame. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the horizontal boards and assemble the frame as indicated in the drawing with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The horizontal pieces of the frame will be flush with the tops of the shelves.

Attach the frame to the console with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

 

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the console top. Apply edge banding, if desired, and attach to the console with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, back spacer, and frame.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the hutch sides. Drill pocket holes in one short end of each piece to attach to the console. Also, drill two rows of holes on each piece for the adjustable shelves and shelf pins. Attach the sides to the console with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the outside faces are flush with the sides of the console.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the fixed shelves and apply edge banding, if desired. Attach to the hutch sides as indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. It will be easier to attach the bottom shelf first, then the upper shelf. The bottom shelf will be located ¾” up from the top of the console.

Cut the pieces for the adjustable shelves. They will be ¼” shorter than the fixed shelves. Apply edge banding to the front of the shelves, if desired.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the hutch back and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the hutch frame. Using a jigsaw, cut the arc in the 1x6 piece as shown. Drill pocket holes in each end of the horizontal pieces and assemble the frame as indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the frame to the hutch with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10

Cut the piece for the hutch top. Apply edge banding, if desired, and attach to the hutch with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and frame.

Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower trim. Attach as indicated with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 12

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Do not attach the drawer faces until the drawer  boxes have been installed and adjusted! Install the drawer slides in the console (the hutch drawer will not have drawer slides) according to the manufacturer’s instructions placing them ¾” back from the opening face to allow for the fronts. Make any adjustments necessary.

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Drill the holes for the handle or knob placement. Shim in place in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and drill a temporary screw through the holes into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers and secure the fronts to the boxes from the insides with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handle or knob.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Feb
27
2012
Project Image

Perhaps it's the abundance of green, or maybe my Irish roots, but there is something about this fun-filled holiday that I absolutely adore... I feel like it brings out my inner kiddo, with pot of gold wishes and rainbow dreams...

These incredible edible treats don't disapoint as they perfectly stimulate my senses and also happen to be a perfect example of how fabulous and amazing a combination of greens can be (just to throw a little designer thought into the mix). 

5 / 6 / 7 / 8

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Feb
27
2012
Project Image

Apartment Therapy has once again started their annual search for the crème de la crème of home blogs. Last year, you all made it possible for The Design Confidential to reach number 5 on this coveted list, for the Best Green Home Blogs... how fabulous is that?

It really showed me you appreciate my efforts here and made me oh so proud (and a tiny bit tearful) - *smile*!

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Feb
26
2012
Project Image

It's been another eventful week here! A big yahoo for that, eh? I am finally finishing up some major projects for the New Year New Style Master Bedroom Makeover and it feels fabulous to actually see it unfold! I love me some progress...

Let's get a wrapin' shall we?

CELEBRATE: We enjoyed a fun little upcycling St. Patrick's Day Project with my Lucky Charm Garland.

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Feb
25
2012
Project Image
Project Details

He brought us the most beautiful build for the Vintage Workshop Storage Bench... and now Robohead brings us the Crates! Yahoo..

The Deets

Showcase: Built From These Plans

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Safety Gear
  • Tape Measure
  • Nail Gun - can also use a drill if preferred.
  • Table Saw - optional and can purchase materials in 1/2" stock if need be
  • Jig Saw or Router - to create handles
Lumber

**To make 3 bins, for only 1 bin purchase a shorter 1x12 and 10 linear feet of 1/2" x 1 1/2" trim board.

  • 1 - 1x12 at 8'
  • 2x4 at 8' OR 27 linear feet of 1/2" x 1 1/2" trim board (this latter option is obviously much more expensive, but is an option if you aren't able to rip a 2x4)
Materials
  • 1" Brad Nails
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
  • Sanding Supplies
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

For 1 Crate:

  • 1 - 1x12 at 11 1/2" Bottom
  • 2 - 1x12 at 8" Front and Back
  • 8 - 1/2" x 1 1/2" Slats at 13" Sides
  • 4 - 1/2" x 1 1/2" Slats at 8" Front/Back Trim

For 3 Crates:

  • 2 - 1x12 at 11 1/2" Bottom
  • 6 - 1x12 at 8" Front and Back
  • 21 - 1/2" x 1 1/2" Slats at 13" Sides
  • 12 - 1/2" x 1 1/2" Slats at 8" Front/Back Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut your Front, Back, and Bottom to size. If you would like to carve out handles you should do this on the Front and Back pieces prior to assembling. You can use a router or a jig saw, even a hole saw will work if you are clever about it. Once your pieces are ready, glue and nail together with the bottom inset between the front and back.

Step 1
Step 2

To create the slats, you can rip a 2x4 into 1/2" wide strips that are 1 1/2" in height and 13" in length. If this isn't an option for you, you can also purchase trim boards in this dimension but keep in mind it will be more costly. Tack on the slats using glue and nails.

Step 2
Step 3

To create the decorative trim on the front and back, you will rip a 2x4 in the same manner as the step above only your lengths will be at 8" for this step. Again you can purchase this material if you aren't able to make it! Then simply glue to the front and back as shown.

Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Feb
24
2012
Project Image

I for one think the mods Peder made for his Mason Acivity Table are absolutely incredible and rather genius!  And how adorable is his little man who will make his own mods to this piece as he plays... LOVE!

Estimated Cost 

As far as total cost, I'm not too sure. Honestly, counting mistakes, cheap cuts to practice on, multiple stains to test, materials and other things it went pretty far over budget. I remember though, before I actually started, plugging in the materials list on the Home Depot web site and seeing how much more it was going to cost. I guess it all depends on the grade of wood/material you use and the area you live in as to how much you're going to get charged. 

Length of Time 

As far as time to build, that's tough to say too. The first photo I took was on November 2nd and I was done December 23rd I think. That was basically built when I had time to do it in between work and family things. Sometimes I went a week or more just walking past it in the garage. 

Lumber Used 

So, being as this was my first real wood project I had no clue as to what wood to use, what was available and where to get it. Home Depot and Lowes are both within 3 miles of my home so I went with what these stores had in stock. The wood is nothing fancy, mostly pine. Also, not all cuts required were available in say poplar or red/white oak and I am currently without a table saw to make such modified cuts.  I used the better grade cuts for exposed, visible areas then lesser grade cuts for interior, less visible pieces. The plywood is just birch cabinet grade. 

Finishing Technique 

The finish I am least proud of. I knew pine can be tricky with inconsistency in staining so I sought out a pre stain. I tested out Minwax's but eventually went with Charles Neil's pre conditioner which worked great. I also compared Minwax to General Finishes gel stain and liked the bolder color of the former. Also, GF's Gel Topcoat was used. Nothing fancy to apply, just paper towels for it all. 

Feb
23
2012
Project Image

I needed a little something extra near my bed and above my nightstand... And if that something might even provide me a few subtle (or not so subtle) reminders for the day to come, then all the better!

This project was super duper simple, not permanent, and just plain fun to do!

I just recently purchased this fun little tool for myself, and at around $13, it's been a blast making labels. Something very satisfying about it... 

I chose some of my favorite quotes from Pinterest, and went to town! 5 minutes later my barcode like art project was finished! 

DIY 
Kiddos 
Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Feb
22
2012
Project Image
Project Details

I'm really excited to dive into this collection! I'm all over the board these days on what I'm loving, but this console table is high on the list!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 full sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
  • 8 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 4’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 2 sets of 18” drawer slides
  • 4 – Drawer Handles or knobs
  • 2 - Hinges
  • Edge banding for the plywood top
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 18-1/4” x 35-3/4” of ¾” plywood  - Sides
  • 1 - 18-1/4” x 68-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Bottom
  • 1 – 18-1/4” x 33-1/2” of ¾” plywood - Divider
  • 16 – 1x2 at 18-1/4” – Shelf & Drawer Slide Supports, Top Support
  • 1 – 18-1/4” x 22-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Shelf
  • 2 – 18-1/4” x 45” of ¾” plywood – Long Shelves
  • 2 – 1x2 at 35-3/4” – Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1x2 at 67” – Lower Frame Piece
  • 1 – 1x2 at 22-3/4” – Top Support
  • 1 – 1x2 at 45” – Top Support
  • 1 – 1x2 at 67” – Top Support
  • 1 – 1x2 at 22” – Shelf Trim
  • 1 – 1x2 at 31-1/4” – Shelf Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 43-1/2” – Shelf Trim
  • 1 – 35-3/4” x 70” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Back
  • 1 – 20-1/4” x 72” of ¾” plywood – Top
  • 2 – 1x3 at 19-1/4” – Lower Trim
  • 1 – 1x3 at 71-1/2” – Front Lower Trim
  • 2 – 1x6 at 21” – Small Drawer
  • 2 – 1x6 at 42-1/2” – Long Drawer
  • 4 – 1x6 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 18” x 21” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Small Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 18” x 42-1/2” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Long Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 7-1/2” x 21-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Small Drawer Front
  • 1 – 6-1/2” x 43-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Long Drawer Front
  • 1 – 21-3/4” x 21-3/4” of ¾” plywood - Door
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the bottom, the sides, and four of the 1x2 supports. Secure two of the supports to the bottom of the sides with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Secure the other two supports to the bottom with countersunk 1-1/4” screws(make sure one of the supports is centered under the area where the divider will be placed), then attach the shelf to the side supports in the same manner.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the divider. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and secure to the bottom with 2” pocket screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Secure to the cabinet at the spacing indicated with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Attach two of the shelf supports to the underside of the long shelves with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws, then attach the shelves to the side supports in the same manner. Attach the smaller shelf in the same way, as well.

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Locate them as shown in the drawings. Attach them to the cabinet with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the frame sides and bottom. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Make sure the top of the lower trim piece is flush with the top of the lower shelf.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the three 1x2 pieces for the upper top supports. Using the Kreg jig, drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws as shown in the drawing.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the shelf trim pieces. Secure to the fronts of the shelves with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, making sure the top of the trim is flush with the top of the shelves. The right side of the vertical trim will be flush with the smaller cabinet opening.

Cut the piece for the top support. Using the Kreg jig drill pocket holes in each end of the piece and secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws as shown.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the back and secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Place a few nails through the back into the shelf supports, also.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the plywood piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the support pieces.

Step 9
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the lower trim. Mark and cut the arch in the front piece, if desired. Attach the side pieces first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front piece in the same manner.

Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the ¼” bottom pieces with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Do not attach the faces yet! Attach the drawer slides to the cabinet and drawer boxes according to the manufacturer’s directions locating them ¾” back from the face of the cabinet to allow for the front. Make any adjustments necessary.

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Drill holes for handle or knob placement. Shim into place in the openings (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides). Drill temporary screws through the holes for the handles into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers and fasten the fronts from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Cut the piece for the door and drill a hole for the handle or knob location. Attach the hinges to the door and shim the door in place in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door, also). Attach the hinges to the cabinet.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Feb
21
2012
Project Image

I was lucky enough to win the most adorable baby girl’s bedding set the other day, never mind the fact that I don’t have a baby girl…I will hang on to this fabulous prize like no other! Even more exciting since I am without a typical use for the bedding was the DIY project I managed to upcycle from the packaging! Imagine with me… While we turn packing materials into this cute little lucky charm garland...

The image below shows what they were using to protect my prize...and I thought they looked an awful lot like 4 leaf clovers…can you see it too?

I was working on another project outside, using Krylon Spray Paint in Satin Avocado, and thought I would give these charms a bit of charm too! Be forewarned, these fabulous packing materials are very lightweight, and I am fairly certain about half of them ended up in my neighbors yard in the process of making my charm bracelet garland. Oops. This is the most fabulous spray paint and it was nice to find that it worked quite well on a not so typical material like these clovers.

Once they were dry (those that didn’t blow away on this particularly windy day) I brought them inside to give them a nice coating of peridot colored glitter. After all, what’s a charm without a bit o’ shine? Am I right? I used regular Elmer’s School Glue as you can see above and several plates to demarcate the process, which was very complex of course. You will want to give your clover charms a good coat of glue on at least one side (glitter can be pricey so I chose to stick to just one side), which you can do with a paint brush as you see below, or you can go straight to the technique I used after doing several with a brush, and simply dip them directly into the glue. Much faster that way, but did result in some awfully glittery fingers.

Once you have your surface coated with glue you will want to sprinkle your glitter over the top of that surface, making sure to keep a plate, or Tupperware container underneath to capture the excess glitter as it falls. By doing it this way rather than dipping the glued surface into the glitter you ensure your glitter supply will not become corrupted and sticky, which would ruin it. Once you are finished shaking your glitter onto all of your clovers, you can bend the plate and pour the glitter back into the shaker container (Martha Stewart is so clever in this way, making the shaker tops easy to remove and replace!) You will have excess continue to fall off even after you shake them off but again since I used these plates to hold the project I can still pour that excess back into my container, yay!

Kiddos 

I ended up using light green thread since to string the garland together since that was the only green I could find in my kitchen. I was feeling lazy since we are all a bit under the weather here at the house of Des Conf! I strung each clover through the center so that they would sit in a fashion that most looked like a clover.

Once I had them strung I attempted to space them out a bit so they were recognizable and more pleasing to look at.

I love that they are a little bit army and a little bit glitter! Pretty much sums up my personality in that interesting balance of loving things masculine with clean lines, but always loving a bit of glitter and shine!

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