May 2012

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

This table makes me want to throw out my existing table and start again from scratch! Absolutely gorgeous and easy to build!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 8 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 7 – 2x6 at 6’
  • Scrap of 2x3
  • Scrap 1” dowel
Materials
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • 3” screws
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 43-13/16” – Legs
  • 8 – 2x4 at 20-1/8” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 36-1/2” – Frame
  • 2 – 2x4 at 64” – Frame
  • 1 – 2x4 at 58” – Stretcher
  • 2 – 2x4 at 33-1/2” – Supports
  • 7 – 2x6 at 63” – Table Top
  • 2 – 2x4 at 38-1/2” – Table Top
  • 2 – 2x3 at 2” – Decorative Pin
  • 2 – 1” dowel at 6” – Decorative Pin
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the straight edges of the shorter pieces. Assemble in an “X” as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. There will be four assemblies. Using glue and 2-1/2” countersunk screws, secure two Xs together back to back (pocket holes on the inside) to form two table legs.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the aprons and the stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer apron pieces as well as the stretcher. Also drill pocket holes along one long edge of each of the longer pieces, as well as the center of each shorter piece, to attach the table top. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.  Attach the legs to the frame using glue and 3” countersunk screws from the outside. The top of the legs should be flush with the top of the frame.

Attach the stretcher to the center of the cross-sections of the Xs with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Secure to the frame as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the table top. Drill pocket holes in the 2x6 pieces as shown. Assemble the 2x6 pieces together first using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the 2x4 ends using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

The top will overlap the frame by 1” on each side, and 1-1/2” at each shorter end. Use 2” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes in the frame into the table top.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the decorative pin at the X. Drill pocket holes in the bottom of the 2x3 piece, then bore a 1” hole close to the same edge for the dowel pin. Attach to X with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image

It's been a while since I have given you an update on life from the baby train, so I thought I would share with you some of the recent purchases I have made for the nursery! At my last doctor's appointment (4 months / 16 weeks) the doctor was willing to wager this karate kid was a boy. He gave it an 85% chance, but since prawn baby the sequel was extremely squirmy that day, and standing on his or her head, it was awfully difficult to see much of anything other than a 'super hero like', faster than a speeding bullet blur. So as usual we aren't entirely sure yet whether it's a guy or gal, which makes planning a tad difficult, to say the least. 

Of course I gave it the old college try and still managed to do a bit of power shopping, and simply chose items I knew I wanted, regardless! Everything else will have to wait a tad I suppose.

I found a crib in a nice bright white, that was extremely budget friendly, from IKEA. I didn't want to go crazy on this item since in the grand scheme of things I know I will very likely build the baby a toddler bed so purchasing a convertible lifetime crib like we did with my Monster Mash seemed pointless. Besides my attention span on home decor is about as short as can be, so whatever I think I love now, I will detest in less than 2 years... for sure.

I chose the expedit shelves for placing baby's clothes and blankets. I will use it like an open shelved dresser of sorts. I wanted simple and clean and everything where I can see it. This certainly fits the bill.

The mobile... need I say more. I saw this fabulous little thing in the sneak peak of Joy Cho's nursery on Design Sponge and absolutely knew it was just the thing for baby.

I will be back tomorrow with an actual sneak peak of how the nursery is coming along and a project or two I even managed to tackle in there! 

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

I'm really excited to post this project because I was excited to find it browsing through my latest PotteryBarn catalog! Absolutely a stunner, to be sure!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 4 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood
  • 2 sheets of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 4’
  • 2 – 8’ casing
  • 2 – 8’ baseboard
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Sliding Door Hardware – Rockler part no. 38905
  • Edge banding for plywood, if desired
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x3 at 19” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 1x6 at 19” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 1x8 at 19” (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) – Side Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 65-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 19” x 24-7/8” – Side Frame Panels
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 19” x 26-3/8” – Side Frame Panels
  • 2 – 1x2 at 22-1/2” – Bottom Shelf Support
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 91-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – 1x4 at 91-1/2” (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) - Bottom Supports
  • 3 – 1x4 at 22-1/2” (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) – Bottom Supports
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 61-1/4” – Dividers
  • 18 – 1x2 at 23-1/4” – Side & Center Shelf Supports
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 23-1/2” – Side Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/4” x 23-1/4” – Lower Dividers
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 43” – Center Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 23-1/4” – Upper Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/4” x 95” – Top
  • 2 – ¼” plywood at 33” x 93” – Back
  • 2 – Casing & Baseboard Trim at 95” – Upper & Lower Trim
  • 2 – Casing Trim at 25-1/4” – Upper Trim
  • 2 - Baseboard Trim at 25” –Lower Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom supports using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the side panels as shown. Insert into the frames and secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom.  Cut a 1/8” kerf (check manufacturer’s instructions on the door hardware to be sure) across the length approximately ¾” from the front edge. Secure the bottom to the side panels as shown using glue and countersunk  1-1/4” screws through the shelf into the supports.

Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in one shorter end only and secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the side shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws locating them ¾” back from the front edge.

Cut the pieces for the side shelves. Secure to the supports using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the shelves into the supports.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the center shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws locating them ¾” back from the front edge.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the lower divider. Drill pocket holes in one long edge only and secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the divider ¾” back from the front edge.

Cut the piece for the lower shelf. Secure to the supports using 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the shelf into the supports as well as into the divider.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Attach the next divider and shelf in the same manner as Step 6. Also attach the upper shelf to the shelf supports.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the upper divider and attach in the same manner as the other dividers.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the piece for the top. Cut a 1/8” kerf (check manufacturer’s instructions on the door hardware to be sure) across the length approximately 1-1/4” from the front edge. The top willoverlap by 1-1/4" in the front and 3/4" on the sides. Attach with glue and 1-1/4" brad nails through the top into the dividers and sides.

Step 9
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the back. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The measurements for the pieces can be adjusted so that the seam falls behind a shelf.
Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. Assemble in the same manner as the side frames. Attach the door sliding hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

 

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Dayton Locker Media Armoire
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Dayton Locker Media Armoire
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the casing and baseboard trim. Attach the sides first, then the front. Place the upper trim as close to the front edge as possible to allow for the doors to slide.

 

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Dayton Locker Media Armoire
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

I know you guys are going to adore this plan! The instructions for upholstering this chair can be found at Designs by Studio C, yahoo!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • ¾” plywood at 20” x 22”
  • ¼” plywood at 22” x 25-1/2”
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 29” – Back Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18” – Back Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 14-1/2” – Front Legs
  • 5 – 2x2 at 19” – Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 17” – Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 19” – Front & Back Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17” – Side Aprons
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 22” – Seat
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 22” x 25-1/2” - Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the back legs. Cut an 8 deg. angle in the bottom of the longer piece. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the angled end. Attach to the shorter piece as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown, with the pocket holes facing down,  using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end.  Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and the bottom stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end.  Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” notches in the corners of one 22” end to allow for the back legs. Attach to the chair with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the seat into the legs and aprons.

Cut the piece for the back. Attach to the upper back legs with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the back piece into the upper back legs.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

We have had the most phenomenal week of outdoor furniture plans to kick off this Memorial Day Weekend, and why not let it roll? We jump back to one of our most favorite collections here at TDC, the Chesapeake Collection with an amazing daybed! Squeal....

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 16 - 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x6 at 31” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 38” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 77-1/2” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 77-1/2” (ripped to 1-3/4” wide) – Supports
  • 2 – 1x3 at 80” (ripped to 1-3/4” wide) - Supports
  • 8 – 1x3 at 38” – Side Slats
  • 13 – 1x3 at 39-1/2” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs according to the diagram. A circular saw may be the easiest way to do it but a jigsaw will be needed to cut out the straight section on the back of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. The longer aprons will be flush with the face of the legs while the shorter aprons will be set 1-1/4” back from the inside edge. Secure to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the longer boards. Secure to the frame at the spacing indicated ¾” down from the top of the aprons (the bottom will be flush with the apron) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The shorter pieces will be attached to the longer side aprons using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws. They will also be located ¾” down from the top of the apron with the bottoms flush.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. The top slat will be located ½” down from the top of the leg and ¼” from the inside edge. Attach the side slats following the inside angle with 1” spacing in between using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. They will be attached to the supports using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws. The end slats will be located 1-1/2” from the legs while the remaining slats will be spaced 3-1/2” apart.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

A fabulous addition to the other pieces in the Reef Collection, this table is budget friendly and really easy to build!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 20” – Frame
  • 2 – 1x4 at 20-1/2” - Frame
  • 4 – 2x4 at 19-1/4” – Legs
  • 6 – 1x4 at 23-1/2”” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Make sure the pocket holes are staggered so that the pocket screws to assemble the frame will not conflict with the pocket screws connecting to the legs (see drawings).Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach to the frame 1” in from the side face of the legs with 2” pocket hole screws through the frame into the legs. 

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top. Space the boards 1” apart. Attach to the frame and legs with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the frame and legs. 

Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

This easy to build and stylish table is the perfect companion to the sofa and chair in this collection!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x4 at 6’
  • 5 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 44-1/2” – Frame
  • 2 – 1x4 at 20-1/2” - Frame
  • 1 – 1x4 at 19” – Frame Support
  • 4 – 2x4 at 15-3/4” – Legs
  • 6 – 1x4 at 48” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the frame and support. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Make sure the pocket holes are staggered so that the pocket screws to assemble the frame will not conflict with the pocket screws connecting to the legs (see drawings).Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Attach to the frame 1” in from the side face of the legs with 2” pocket hole screws through the frame into the legs. 

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top. Space the boards 1/2” apart. Attach to the frame and legs with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the frame and legs. 

Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

We have plans for the chair, and now the sofa.. I am excited to roll out this new outdoor collection with summer on the mind these days! Easy to build, and fabulous to look at, this collection promises to be a big hit with all of you DIY lovers out there!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 5 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 6 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 24-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 28-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 31-1/2” – Top
  • 1 – 2x4 at 70” – Top
  • 2 – 2x4 at 63” – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 63” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 6” – Center Leg
  • 9 – 1x4 at 18-3/4” – Seat Slats
  • 8 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Side Slats
  • 9 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 28-1/2” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top. Cut 45 deg. miters in each end of the long piece as well as one end of the short pieces. (There will be a left and right) Drill pocket holes in the mitered ends and assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Place on the side assemblies and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the top of the legs into the top piece.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be the 2x4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side stretcher piece to allow for the seat slats. Attach the leg piece at the center using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach all pieces at the spacing indicated (with the front piece flush with the front of the side frame) to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center of the support with 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image

I love this table, especially the finish! I used Apulis' idea and mitered the corners on the table top. The legs are constructed with 2x4s - I have a tutorial on my website here. The center panels are striped (another tutorial here) and screwed to the tabletop frame from underneath.

Built From These Plans: 
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an RH Inspired 1900s Boulangerie Table
Estimated Cost: 

I think I spent around $50 total!!

Finishing Technique: 

 I used Rust-Oleum's Ultimate Wood Stain in Kona for the legs and frame. The panels are stained with Minwax Special Walnut, and Rust-Oleum's Ultimate Wood Stain in Paprika and Sunbleached. I finished it off withRust-Oleum's Ultimate Polyurethane in Satin.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

This week is all about the great outdoors, and some fabulous furniture collections to enjoy it with! Today the chair, and the rest of this collection to follow! 

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 4 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 24-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 28-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 31-1/2” – Top
  • 1 – 2x4 at 37” – Top
  • 2 – 2x4 at 30” – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 30” (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) – Seat Support
  • 4 – 1x4 at 18-3/4” – Seat Slats
  • 8 – 1x4 at 14-3/4” – Side Slats
  • 4 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Back Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 28-1/2” piece as well as the top only of the legs. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top. Cut 45 deg. miters in each end of the long piece as well as one end of the short pieces. (There will be a left and right) Drill pocket holes in the mitered ends and assemble with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Place on the side assemblies and attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the top of the legs into the top piece.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat supports. The center support will be the 2x4 ripped to 2-3/4” wide and will be located ¾” down from the top of the side stretcher piece to allow for the seat slats. Attach the leg piece at the center using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach all pieces at the spacing indicated (with the front piece flush with the front of the side frame) to the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the center of the slats to the center of the support with 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the side frames at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the back slats. The angles may be a little tricky but they should be cut at approximately 25 deg. (see drawing). Once the angles are cut, drill pocket holes in the end of each slat. Attach to the back support and top with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.