September 2012

Key Locker a.k.a. Small Jewelry Armoire

Submitted by Jake / The Design Confidential

I took the wonderful and simple design I found at http://www.thedesignconfidential.com/2012/01/free-diy-furniture-plans-bu... .

I took the jewelry armoire and converted it to a key locker. The frame and doore are made from poplar and the back from poplar plywood I had laying around the garage. The key is from Hobby Lobby at $2 and the face of the door is from some scrap gunstock hardwood flooring . The magnetic closer, pads, knob, hinges, and hooks I had in the garage gathering dust until yesterday.

Built From These Plans:

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Small Jewelry Armoire

Estimated Cost:

Poplar wood $12

Key $2

Scrap wood, knob, closer, pads, hinges est $5

Length of Time:

1 day (takes time for the stain to dry)

Lumber Used:

Poplar, poplar plywood, scrap gunstock hardwood flooring.

Finishing Technique:

Minwax gunstock stain. After a good sanding and cleaning put on the first coat, let it sit for a few minutes, wiped it off, hit it with the 00 steel wool, and then a second sitting of stain. Wiped it off and it looks great.

Additional Project Details:

The added pic is of the inside of the key locker. I don't have a router so the face is just screwed in the back of the door frame.

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Emmerson Buffet

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Emmerson Buffet

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Countersink Bit for Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer

Lumber

2 – 1x3 at 6’
1 – 1x6 at 3’
Two sheets of ¾” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
Edge banding for plywood, optional
Two sets of hinges
Two door handles or pulls
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x6 at 13-3/4” – Base
1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 53-1/2” - Bottom
2 – 1x3 at 48” – Base Stretchers
2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 25-3/4” – Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 25-3/4” x 52” - Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 25-3/4” – Divider
1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 53-1/2”- Top
2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 17” – Shorter Shelves
2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 34-1/4” – Longer Shelves
3 – ¾” plywood at 16-15/16” x 25-1/2” - Doors

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base and the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each base piece. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the base stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the bottom and base pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides, back, and divider into the top.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides as well as the center. Install the hinges, then install the doors. Drill holes and attach any door hardware.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments

Roundup: Scary Spooktastic Halloween Decor

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

For those of you who like a more spooky festivity or a bit more of the macabre, these projects and products are for you (and me!)! I adore the darker side of decor to ring in the occasion and these are perfect for that! A few of these even seem entirely budget friendly to make or reproduce a version of yourself, at home!

Sources

From Left to Right and Top to Bottom:

Specimen Jars, Specimen Jar

Snake Wreath, Barbed Wire Web, Bloody Candles

Pumpkin Scarecrow, Scary Paper Mache Pumpkins

Bones in a Jar, Glitter Skulls, Floating Skulls

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Emmerson 3 Drawer Dresser

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Emmerson 3 Drawer Dresser

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad Nailer

Lumber

One sheet of ¾” plywood
1 – 1x3 at 6’
1 – 1x6 at 3’
2 – 1x8 at 8’
One sheet of ¼” plywood

Materials

1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
3 - sets of 16” drawer slides
3- Drawer pulls
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x6 at 14” –Base
1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 34-1/2” – Bottom
2 – 1x3 at 29” – Base Stretchers
2 - ¾” plywood at 18” x 27-3/4” – Sides
2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 34-1/2” – Shelves
1 – ¼” plywood at 27-3/4” x 36” – Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 36” – Top
6 – 1x8 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box
6 -1x8 at 33-1/2” – Drawer Box
3 – ¼” plywood at 16” x 33-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
2 – ¾” plywood at 8-3/4” x 34-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
1 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 34-1/4” – Middle Drawer Front

Instructions

Step 1

Apply optional edge banding to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one long edge of each base piece. Also drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom to attach the sides. Position the base pieces on the bottom as shown and attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the base stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the bottom and existing base pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in the top edge of each piece to attach the top. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each edge. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The shelves will be set ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, go here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. There will be a 1/8” gap all around. For another easy tutorial, go here. Attach the drawer pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Builders Showcase: Low Loft Bunk

Submitted by zRRnMU8ELe / The Design Confidential

I finally got my grandsons bed done. It turned out fantastic! I made it a bit shorter than your plans called for, the 4x4 posts are 4 ft tall, but I still used the 18" drop for the rail and cleat. Since he's just 3, we wanted it a bit lower. It's the perfect height for us to stand and give him a kiss at the rail when he's in bed.

Built From These Plans:

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Twin Low Loft Bunk Bed

Finishing Technique:

The hardware store I went to didn't have any 5/16 carriage bolts, and I didn't want to run around looking for them, so I used 3/8 carriage bolts instead. Also, instead of using a ladder, I bought stair runners (I think that's what they are called) and built stairs. I did put them upside down, that wasn't a mistake, his room is small and they took up too much room if we put them the right way. So I added another 4x4 post to attach the stairs to.

I used 3/8 hex screws (5 inches long) to attach the stairs to the posts (I predilled the holes to make it easier to put the hex screws in, but still took some muscle). I also added the decorative balls on top to 'fancy' it up a bit. It has 2 coats of 'natural cherry' stain on it.

Zayden absolutely LOVES his new bed and 'man cave'. The letters are just the inexpensive wood ones that I painted and attached with a smidge of poster putty. I'm going to add a spring tension rod and curtains between the posts so he can have a tent, without me having to clamp a blanket up there.

Thank you so much for posting your plans, they made this bed so easy to build....except for drilling thru the posts and bottom rail, that took some muscle. *lol*

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Abington Cabinet

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Abington Cabinet

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer

Lumber

Full sheet of ¾” plywood
Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
Quarter sheet of ½” plywood
Scrap of ¼” plywood at least 16” x 31-1/2”
2 – 1x3 at 8’
1 – 1x4 at 8’
1 – 8 ft. baseboard trim

Materials

1” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/4” brad nails
One set of 16” drawer slides
Two sets of hinges
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – ¾”plywood at 17-3/4” x 40-3/4”- Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 32-1/2” x 40-3/4” Back
1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 35”- Top
2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 32-1/2” – Bottom & Divider
1 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 32-1/2” – Kick Plate
1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 32-1/2” – Shelf
4 – 1x3 at 11-1/16” – Door Frames
4 – 1x3 at 30” – Door Frames
2 – ½” plywood at 11-1/16” x 25” – Door Panels
2 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box
2 – 1x4 at 31-1/2” – Drawer Box
1 – ¼” plywood at 16” x 31-1/2” – Drawer Bottom
1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 32-1/4” – Drawer Front
2 – baseboard trim at 17-3/4” – Side Trim
1 – baseboard trim at 35” – Front Trim

Instructions

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge.

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in each side edge as well as the top edge. Attach to the side pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top will overlap by ½” at the front and sides.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the bottom and divider. Drill pocket hole screws in the sides and one long edge of each piece. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the kick plate. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach from the underside using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in the sides as well as one long edge for the back. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the shelf ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the door frames. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the door frame using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. The back side of the door panel should be flush with the back side of the frame.

Attach the hinges – there will be a 1/8” gap on all sides of the doors as well as in the center.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Don’t forget to set the Kreg jig back to ¾” material! Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Attach to the drawer box using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here.

Step 8

Cut the piece for the drawer front. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. For another easy tutorial, click here.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the trim. Attach the side pieces first using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Roundup: Hallowed and Ghoulish Prints and Printables

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Hallowed and Ghoulish, and no that isn't the name of a store...though it likely could be, no? It was brought to my attention this morning that we are rapidly approaching the Fall Season. I love the summer months, but after days on end of stifling hot temperatures, I love the onset of slightly cooler weather, without the rain we typically have in the Spring. I love to decorate with fall colors and fall inspired items but I LOVE to decorate for Halloween even more! It just might be my favorite holiday (excepting of course those holidays that involve gift giving...gotta love gifts!). I think in large part my love for this day definitely involves the fun that comes with dressing up, but mainly it's my chance to include all of the dark and dreary accessories that I adore, without my family and friends wondering if I need professional help! Take a peak at a few of the fun things from around the web that I am loving for the impending hallowed and ghoulish days ahead...

I think the free Clip Art available at the Graphics Fairy under her Halloween Category would make for some amazing Wall Decor, especially framed in Black. Or her Poison labels...how fun on would those be on wine bottles at Halloween themed party.

Sources

Image Resources: Burnt Warehouse Photo, Halloween Clip Art, Mini Skull Vase Fill, Crow Print, Whistler's Wicked Witch, Mercury Pumpkins , Black Crows

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Kelty Coffee Table

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Kelty Coffee Table! This gal is a beauty, if I do say so myself!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Brad nailer

Lumber

7 – 2x2 at 8’
One sheet of ¾” plywood

Materials

2” pocket hole screws
2” screws
1-1/4” brad nails
2” wide edge banding
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 2x2 at 23-1/4” – Feet
6 – 2x2 at 13-1/2” – Side Frame & Center Dividers
4 – 2x2 at 44-1/4” – Stretchers
4 – 2x2 at 10-1/4” – Small X
2 – 2x2 at 21-7/8” – Small X
8 – 2x2 at 12-1/16” – Large X
4 – 2x2 at 25-1/4” – Large X
2 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 48-1/4” - Top

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the feet. Cut the arc in each end using a jigsaw and maintaining 20-1/4” between the arcs on each foot. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one long end of each leg to be used as the top of the frame.

Cut the pieces for the side frame. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the feet as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long end of each piece that will be used as the top stretchers (the pocket holes will enable the top to be attached to the frame). Attach as shown to the sides using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach as shown to the sides using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the small Xs. Cut the angles as shown. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces as indicated and attach to the larger piece using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Position the Xs in the side frames with the pocket holes facing in. Attach using glue and toenailed 2” screws through the X into the feet. Use longer screws if necessary.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the larger Xs. Cut the angles as shown. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces as indicated and attach to the larger piece using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Position the Xs in the longer frames with the pocket holes facing in. Attach using glue and toenailed 2” screws through the X into the feet. Use longer screws if necessary.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the top. Spread glue on the face of one of the pieces and position the other piece on top. Wiggle it around a little to create suction and clamp until dry. Insert a few brad nails the hold the piece together. Apply edge banding and trim away the excess.

Position the top on the table frame with ½” overlapping each side and ¼” overlapping the edge of each foot piece.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

Comments

Builders Showcase: Outdoor Toscana Table

Submitted by Christal I Sewpose / I Sewpose

It was a great day of sweat and lessons learned and in the end a bbq'd dinner on our new table.

Built From These Plans:

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Toscana Table

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post:

Let's Make a Picnic Table

Comments

Mummies and Ghosters and Bats Oh My!

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential

Mummies and Ghosters and Bats, Oh My! We are surely getting a tad closer to this fun holiday occasion! Have any of you started decorating for Halloween yet? I haven't...and it's killing me that I can't get started until the first week in October, given some of my impending baby bump events!

I will be sharing my own Ghostly Decor with you shortly (fingers crossed), I have some fun projects planned! In the meantime I thought I might share some of the amazing projects from around the interwebs that are inspiring me this year!