Oct
31
2012
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Bouclier Desk

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • Half sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 3 sets of 20” drawer slides
  • 5 – drawer knobs or handles
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 23” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 53” – Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 24-1/2” – Drawer Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” – 24-1/2” – Drawer Shelf Sides
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 18-1/2”” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 24-1/2” x 33-1/2” – Center Drawer Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 26-3/4” x 57-1/2” - Top
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 8”– Small Drawer Boxes Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood 4” x 32-1/2” at – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2 x 20” – Larger Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 8-1/2” – Larger Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 8” x 20” – Smaller & Larger Drawer Bottoms
  • 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 20” x 32-1/2” – Center Drawer Bottom
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-5/8” x 8-3/4” – Smaller & Larger Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at ¾” x 8-3/4” – Larger Drawer Filler Piece
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-5/8” x 33-1/4” – Center Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle in the legs as shown using a jigsaw. The angles will face to the inside of the desk.

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Cut the notch as shown and drill pocket holes. Attach to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the left side drawer shelf. Drill pocket holes in one long edge of the middle shelf. Drill pocket holes in both long edges of the lower shelf as well as at the back edge of the larger side piece. It will be easier to assemble these pieces to each other before attaching to the desk. Use glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws to attach the side piece and lower shelf to the desk. The middle shelf can be attached to the side panel with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the side panel into the shelf.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the right side drawer shelf. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown and attach to the back and side panels with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the center drawer shelf. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The center shelf will be level with the drawer shelf on the left side.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the top piece into the side and back panels.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket hole screws in each end of the side pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the drawer fronts. For the larger drawer front, the ¾” filler will need to be glued between the two drawer fronts as a sort of “false piece” to balance out the look of the drawer fronts.  Pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
30
2012
Project Image

I couldn't be more excited to announce my partnership with The Home Depot as part of The Fall Style Guide Blog Network! As such, I will be sharing some fabulous projects over the next few months and I personally can't wait to get my crafting fix! Hatching this baby bird has been quite the experience but I am eager to get back into one of my favorite pastimes!

  • The Home Depot Style Guides give you a dose of seasonal inspiration and know-how. Check out the best projects, trends and colors year round.
  • Sarah Fishburne, The Home Depot’s Director of Trend and Design, highlights ways to incorporate seasonal trends into your home in The Home Depot Fall Style Guide.
  • Subscribe to the Style Guide and get updates each time a new edition is released. Plus, you'll get exclusive Home Depot savings, offers, how-to project ideas and much more.
  • Make the fall season your own with The Home Depot Style Guide app. Find the latest home improvement projects, design ideas, décor trends, budget-friendly updates and more. Easily browse, share and shop this magazine so you can start enjoying your space faster.
  • Wreaths aren’t just for Christmas anymore. They’re finding their way from the front door to practically every room of the house. And when you’re creating a wreath to celebrate the season or a special occasion, you’re only limited by your imagination. Find wreath ideas in The Home Depot Fall Style Guideto welcome the harvest season.
  • Create your home’s oasis with the latest trends in kitchen and bathroom décor by using muted, natural hues that sing to warm, cozy spaces, or metal finishes that make your home sparkle. You don’t have to leave summer behind when blending in fall’s best colors.
  • The Home Depot Fall Style Guide shows how optical illusions can make any room seem just the right size while adding a festive touch to your décor inside, and preparing the space outside.

Disclosure:

The Home Depot partnered with bloggers such as me for their Fall Style Guide Blog Network. As part of this program, I received compensation for my time. They did not tell me what to purchase or what to say about any product mentioned in these posts. The Home Depot believes that consumers and bloggers are free to form their own opinions and share them in their own words. The Home Depot’s policies align with WOMMA Ethics Code, FTC guidelines and social media engagement recommendations.
 

Celebrate 
Oct
29
2012
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an RH Inspired 1900s Boulangerie Table Without a Kreg Jig

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
Lumber
  • 2 – 4x4 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 7 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x8 at 4’
  • Assorted 2x2s, 2x3s, and 2x4s each at least 30” long or
  • 2 - 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 4 - 2x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 6’
  • 2 - 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 6’
Materials
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 4x4 at 28-1/2”- Legs
  • 8 – 2x4 at 2” - Blocks
  • 2 – 2x4 at 30” - Aprons
  • 2 – 2x4 at 58” - Aprons
  • 2 – 2x4 at 34” – Frame Supports
  • 1 – 2x8 at 34” – Frame Support
  • 2 – 2x2 at 27” – Top Frame Support
  • 2 – 2x4 at 62-1/2” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 2x4 at 40-1/2” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 2x4 at 29-1/2”” – Top Frame
  • 1 – 2x4 at 33-1/2” – Top Frame
  • 8 – 2x2 at 29-1/2” – Panel
  • 8 – 2x3 at 29-1/2” – Panel
  • 8 – 2x4 at 29-1/2” – Panel
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the legs with the taper as indicated.

Cut the pieces for the blocks. The one of the blocks will be positioned on the same side of the leg as the taper. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws. Keep in mind there will be two right legs and two left legs.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the aprons as indicated. Attach to the blocks on the legs with countersunk 2-1/2” screws and with the taper facing the long side. Make sure the apron is flush with the outside facing edges of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the frame supports as indicated. Secure to the frame as shown with glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws. The 2x8 will be positioned with the wider edge facing up while the 2x4s are positioned on end.

Cut the pieces for the top frame supports. Attach to the side aprons between the blocks using glue and 2-1/2” screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the top frame. The longer frame pieces will be positioned 1” from the outside edge of the legs and secured to the longer aprons using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws.

The shorter frame pieces will be attached using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws into the side aprons.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the center top divider. Position the piece as shown and secure to the 2x8 support piece using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws.

Cut the pieces for the other dividers. Position the pieces as shown and secure to the supports using glue and 2-1/2” screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the panels. The pieces can be arranged in a random order but each panel needs to have 2 – 2x2s, 2 – 2x3s, and 2 – 2x4s in order to fit into the 15” opening.  It would be a good idea to finish the panels before attaching them to the top in case there are gaps in between the boards.

Secure in place using glue and 2-1/2” screws through the bottom of the supports into the panel pieces.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
26
2012
Project Image

I have thoughts of a fabulous Halloween party in my relatively near future (ok, maybe sometime in the next 5 years...), complete with spooky invitations and haunted libations... won't you join me in this fun little daydream of mine?

Celebrate 
Kiddos 
Sources
Oct
26
2012
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired King Stria Bed

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 6 – 1x2 at 8’
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 15 – 1x3 at 8’
  • One sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 5/8” brad nails
  • Surface mounted keyhole bed rail brackets (like these)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18” – Footboard Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 50” – Headboard Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 75” – Headboard & Footboard Frames
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 75” – Footboard Panel
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 36-1/2” x 75” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 1x4 at 84” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 81” – Slat Supports
  • 17 – 1x3 at 76-1/2” – Slats
  • 18 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 76-1/2” – Trim Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and headboard/footboard frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws as shown in the drawings.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the headboard/footboard panels. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the frames using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The faces of the panels will be flush with the faces of the frames.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and slat supports. Attach the slat supports to the sides using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the supports will be flush with the bottom of the sides. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the slats. Attach to the supports using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Do not use glue! 

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the trim slats. Attach to the headboard and footboard as shown with approximately ½” spacing using glue and 5/8” brad nails.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
25
2012
Project Image

This table is my version of Design Confidential's Chesapeake Snack Table. I built it from 3/4" solid oak flooring that was given to me. It is a special but simple and elegant table.  The base is pine and the top is made from oak flooring with the tongues and grooves cut off. I attached the top with only pocket hole screws and no glue so I could remove the top should it break or buckle.  The joints are very tight so weather changes could stress it beyond its breaking point.

Estimated Cost 

Cost was nearly nothing since the oak was given to me and the base was pine from my scrap pile but I would guess that the screws and glue could add up to a few dollars.

Length of Time 

About 3 hours not including the time for waiting for paint and stain to dry.  For that add another day.

Lumber Used 

Oak for the top and pine for the base.

Finishing Technique 

Minwax Golden Oak two coats

Three coats of Rustoleum Sating White Enamel spray.

Oct
25
2012
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Benchwright Buffet.

Showcase: Built From These Plans

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 3 – 2x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • Quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • Quarter sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 3 – Drawer pulls
  • 2 – Door pulls
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x3 at 35-1/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x3 at 13-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 26-3/4” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x3 at 62” – Bottom Aprons
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 29-1/4” x 62” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 62” – Bottom
  • 3 – 1x3 at 17” – Bottom Supports
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Dividers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 62” – Top Apron
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 20-1/2” – Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 66” – Top
  • 4 – 1x3 at 15-1/4” – Door Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 27-1/2” – Door Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 15-1/4” x 22-1/2” – Door Panels
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/4” x 20” – Drawer Fronts
  • 6 – 1x6 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box
  • 6 – 1x6 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Box
  • 3 – ¼” plywood at 16” x 18-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to all exposed areas of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as the top end of the legs.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the plywood panel as shown. Attach the panel to the side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the side panel assembly as shown to the legs using glue and pocket hole screws. Use 2” pocket hole screws through the frame pieces into the legs and use 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side panels into the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Bottom aprons. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket hole screws as shown. Attach to the legs and the back apron using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the bottom. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the bottom aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The face of the shelf should be flush with the top of the aprons.

Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Attach to the aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The supports should fit up against the back side of the bottom.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. When drilling pocket holes, note that there will be a left and a right so that the pocket holes are hidden in the section where the drawers are located.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top apron. Drill pocket holes at each end and attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes at the sides and back, then attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers. Drill pocket holes at the sides and back also and attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and pocket hole screws through the legs and back into the top piece. Use 1-1/2” pocket hole screws through the legs and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the back.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the door frames. Drill pocket holes in the shorter pieces as well as the piece for the panel. Attach the panels to the shorter pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the assembly to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. For an easy tutorial on how to do this, click <a href=”http://designsbystudioc.com/how-to-install-drawer-slides/”>here</a>.

Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. The fronts will overlap the opening by ¼” on each side. For an easy tutorial on how to attach drawer fronts, click here.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
24
2012
Project Image

A little something exciting happened this past Saturday... Those of you who hang out with us on Facebook are already 'in the know', since I tend to share exciting news there first or at least to give a sneak peak or two on occasion...but for the rest of you, I will give you a clue (if the picture hasn't already)...

By early Saturday morning, the bird had landed and was the spitting image of his big brother, my Monster Mash boy. The notable difference between the two being in personality, as this little bug is quite the snuggle bunny. After having such a completely independent spirit for my first bambino, I have to say, it's kind of nice to experience the cuddliness of my second! 

He handled the car ride home like a champ! So basically, he slept the whole way, which is fine by me since all of you who are parents know this particular portion of the homecoming has the possibility of going terribly awry.

It was love at first when the little noticed the big, and the jury is still out about how the big feels regarding the little. I know he thinks he's cute, but I sense he is a tad nervous about the idea of a tiny baby in the house and what that will mean for him. He seems terrified of the prospect of diaper duty, as though a 4 year old would even be considered for the job. 

I feel like this bundle of joy has brought a much adored ray of sunshine to our lives and I am soaking in every second of it. It is so different with my second than with my first, in that the fear isn't there and it leaves the door wide open for experiencing the joy. Having a new baby is scary for a first time parent and exhausting in ways you can only understand once you have done it. In all honestly it took me till my first born was almost 4, for the life changes that come with being a parent to have firmly taken hold, and the exhaustion to have become a familiar and permanent fixture in my everyday life anyhow, to even consider that adding a baby to the mix  wouldn't completely put me over the top. This timing and spread seem to be ideal for me because this time around even the sleepless nights and virtually constant feedings are so totally fabulous. I'm for surely smitten with our new addition and love that I could share this gift with my monster mash boy. He is forever a big brother from this day forward... 

Living 
TDC 
Oct
23
2012
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an RH Inspired 1900s Boulangerie Bar Table (84”)

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 4x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 6’
  • 5 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x6 at 6’
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 4x4 at 34-1/2”- Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 18-3/4” - Aprons
  • 2 – 2x4 at 70” - Aprons
  • 3 – 2x4 at 23” – Frame Supports
  • 2 – 2x6 (ripped to 5” wide) at 27-1/2” – Table Top Ends
  • 5 – 2x6 at 74” – Table Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the legs with the taper as indicated. 

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the aprons as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at each end as well as in one long end of each piece to attach the top. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The leg tapers should face to the inside following the longer aprons.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the frame supports as indicated. Drill pocket holes at each end as well as in one long end of each piece to attach the top. Attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the top. Drill pocket holes as shown in the longer boards. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach to the top with each shorter end overlapping by 3-1/2” and the longer ends overlapping by ¾”. Secure with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the aprons and supports into the underside of the top.

Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
19
2012
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Emmerson Buffet with Drawers

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 3’
  • 7 – 1x8 at 8’
  • Two sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • Six sets of 16” drawer slides
  • Six sets of drawer handles or pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x6 at 13-3/4” – Base
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 53-1/2” - Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 48” – Base Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 25-3/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-3/4” x 52” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 25-3/4” – Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 53-1/2”- Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 17” – Shorter Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 34-1/4” – Longer Shelves
  • 12 – 1x8 at 14-1/2” – Small & Large Drawer Sides
  • 6 – 1x8 at 16” – Small Drawer Front & Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Small Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x8 at 33-1/4” – Large Drawer Front & Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 31-3/4” – Large Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 16-3/4” – Small Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 16-3/4” – Lower Small Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 34” – Large Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 34” – Lower Large Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base and the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each base piece. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the base stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the bottom and base pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the bottom and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides, back, and divider into the top.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes on all four edges of the bottom pieces as well as the ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

 

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Note that the two bottom drawers are ¼” taller. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts. For another easy tutorial, click here.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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