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Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
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Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Crate and Barrel Inspired Bluestone Coffee Table! The top can be painted to look like concrete or you can brush on some concrete resurfacing material for a thin coat! How fantastic is that... Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 3x3 posts at 3’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 3” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/2” edge banding
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 3x3 at 15-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 22-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x3 at 22-1/2” Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x2 at 12-1/2”- Truss Pieces
  • 5 – 2x3 at 24-1/2” – Slats
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 27-1/2” x 27-1/2” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretchers will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the truss pieces. Cut the angles as shown (they are NOT cut at 45 degrees) and drill pocket holes in each angle. Position as shown and secure to the stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the other stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the slats. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure to the stretchers as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Locate them ½” down from the top of the stretcher.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the top and fasten them together using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Apply the edge banding. Position the top on the frame and secure using glue and countersunk 3” screws from the underside of the upper stretchers into the underside of the top.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

We covered the plans to build the table here and now the benches! Yahoo... Materials listed are to build two benches, even better, right? Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 4’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 6 – 2x6 at 8’
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 8 – 2x6 at 16-7/16” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x4 at 16-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x3 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x4 at 16-1/2” – Seat Ends
  • 6 – 2x6 at 68” – Seat Planks
  • 4 – 2x2 at 33-7/8” – Truss
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36-3/4” – Stretcher
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles in the legs as shown using a jigsaw, miter saw, or circular saw. Note that the angles are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each leg. There will be two left legs and two right legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 stretcher. Assemble the sides as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The 2x3 stretchers will be perpendicular to the ground and will not follow the angle of the legs while the 2x4 stretcher will rest on top of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Position the seat as shown and secure using countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the upper side stretcher into the bottom of the seat.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the trusses. Cut the angles and the notches as shown. Position in the center of the lower stretcher and secure using toenailed 2-1/2” screws through the truss into the stretcher, as well as through the truss into the top on the underside.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the stretcher. Center on the trusses and secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans and How to Build a Wooden Truss Dining Table! This gal is gorgeous and might just lend her design to a table I will be building... we shall see! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 8 – 2x6 at 8’
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x6 at 28-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 38-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x3 at 32-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x4 at 38-1/2” – Seat Ends
  • 7 – 2x6 at 86” – Seat Planks
  • 2 – 2x2 at 47-1/8” – Truss
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angles in the legs as shown using a jigsaw, miter saw, or circular saw. Note that the angles are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each leg. There will be two left legs and two right legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3 stretcher. Assemble the sides as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The 2x3 stretchers will be perpendicular to the ground and will not follow the angle of the legs while the 2x4 stretcher will rest on top of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Position the top as shown and secure using countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the upper side stretcher into the bottom of the seat.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the trusses. Cut the angles and the notches as shown. Position in the center of the lower stretcher and secure using toenailed 2-1/2” screws through the truss into the stretcher, as well as through the truss into the top on the underside.

Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Easy to follow, Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jocelyn Console Table! I love this cute little gal and with that bit of storage, she is that much more functional! Love that! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 6 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 1 scrap of 2x4 at 20”
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood
  • 2 – Cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 35-1/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x3 at 20” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 2x2 at 20” – Side Frames
  • 7 – 2x2 at 46” – Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 46” – Back Panel
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 23” x 49” – Shelves
  • 1 – 2x2 at 7” – Center Divider
  • 1 – 2x4 at 20” – Center Support
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 50” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-7/8” x 22” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 20” – Drawer Sides (inside)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 20” – Drawer Sides (outside)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 22” – Drawer Backs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side frames. Cut the notches in two of the 2x3 pieces as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the two 2x3 pieces with the notches. Drill pocket hole in these pieces as shown. Position the pieces as shown orienting the pocket hole screws so they will be hidden (and not have to be filled). Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. 

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and the back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back panel as shown. Secure two of the stretchers to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the back face of the back panel is flush with the inside faces of the stretchers. Secure the panel assembly and remaining stretchers as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut the notches with a jigsaw. Secure the shelves using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the center divider and drill pocket holes in the top edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center support drill pocket holes at each end. The pocket holes for the front edge will have to be close together as the piece will be secured to the 2x2 divider. Position the piece so that it is centered on the 2x2 and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Position the piece so that it overhangs by ½” on each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and stretchers.

Step 6
Step 7

The drawers are constructed differently than normal. There is a right drawer and a left drawer. The “outside” sides are taller than the “inside” sides. Construct one drawer as shown in the drawings, then reverse the sides for the other drawer.

Cut the pieces for the fronts and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Locate the bottom holes in the taller side pieces so that the back can be fastened to it. The “inside” sides will be positioned 3/8” from the top of the front, making the bottom 1-1/2” up from the bottom of the front. The “outside” sides will be positioned 3/8” from the top of the front making the bottom flush with the front. Make sure the pocket holes are facing in! Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. The bottom face will be flush with the bottom edge of the “inside” sides, making it positioned 1-1/2” up from the bottom on the “outside” sides. Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the back and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Rub a coat of paste wax on the bottom edges of the drawers. This will help them slide much easier!

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection Open Shelf Cabinet! 

** The components can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. **

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 26-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 26-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 26-1/8” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 26-1/8” – Back
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 19-1/4” x 26-1/8” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 27-5/8” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 27-5/8” – Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Moreno Bar! This plan is perfect for those of you who would like to bring a little of that entertaining vibe into your room! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
  • 1 – half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood
  • 1 set of 16” drawer slides
  • 3 – Cabinet pulls
  • 2 sets of hinges for the doors
  • 1 set of hinges for the flip-up top
  • 2 Friction Lid Supports (like these)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 1x4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 33-1/4” – Side Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/4” x 30-3/4” plywood – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x4 at 29-3/4” – Front Legs
  • 1 – 1x4 at 45” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 34-3/4” x 43-1/2” – Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/2” x 43-1/2” – Shelves
  • 1 – 1x3 at 27-1/4” – Front Divider
  • 1 – 1x4 (ripped to 2-3/4” wide) at 15-1/2” – Top Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/8” x 16-3/4” – Fixed Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-5/8” x 33-3/4” – Flip-Up Top
  • 4 – 1x3 at 12-1/2” – Door Frame
  • 4 – 1x3 at 27-1/8” – Door Frame
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 22-1/8” – Door Panel
  • 2 – 1x2 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 9-1/2” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 1 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 9-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 1x3 at 11” – Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the side legs and the side panel. Cut the angle in the leg using a jigsaw. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each long end of the panel, and in one long edge of one leg as shown. Keep in mind, there will be a right side assembly and a left side assembly! Attach the legs to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretcher. Cut the angle in the legs using a jigsaw, and drill pocket holes in the top edge keeping in mind there will be a right and a left. Cut the hole in the stretcher for the drawer using a jigsaw. Attach the legs to each end of the stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the side legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back. Draw a 4” radius at each corner and cut with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in each side edge. Secure the back piece to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back will stand 4” above the side to create a “backsplash”. 

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in three edges. Secure to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the upper shelf will be flush with the bottom of the upper stretcher. 

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the front divider and drill pocket holes in the top edge. Secure to the upper stretcher as shown. Add a couple of countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the divider into each of the shelves.

Cut the piece for the top divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the fixed top. Position the piece so that it butts up against the backsplash and overhangs the front and side by ½”. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the flip-up top and install the hinges. There will be a 1/8” gap between the top and the back splash as well as between the top and the fixed top. The front and sides will overhang by ½”.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the doors and drill pocket holes as shown. Install the hinges, then install the doors. Attach the cabinet pulls in the location desired.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces, and assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom using glue and 1” brad nails. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Cut the piece for the drawer front. For another easy tutorial, click here. Install the cabinet pull as desired.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Havana Islita Outdoor Ottoman! We did it! all 3 pieces, now you can get this collection built in time for summer bbq's and outdoor fun! Yahoo! We covered the corner chair and the armless chair and of course for all 3 pieces in the collection, click here!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’

 

 

Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Chair Webbing and fasteners (if using the webbing option)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x2 at 11” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 26” – Stretchers
  • For the Slat option:
  • 5 – 1x2 at 26” – Cleats
  • 10 – 1x2 at 26” - Slats

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

 

Step 1
Step 2

If using the webbing, attach the webbing to the frame according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

If using the slats, continue as follows:

Cut the pieces for the cleats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the slats. Position the slats with approximately 1” spacing between them. Secure to the cleats using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

 

Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

We covered the armless chair here, and now the corner piece! You are just about finished with the pieces you need to make this beauty for your outdoor space! Arrange the pieces into a sectional or a sofa with a chaise and enjoy!! Xx...Rayan!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 6 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 12 – 1x2 at 8’

 

 

Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Chair Webbing and fasteners (if using the webbing option)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 3 – 2x2 at 12” – Angled Back Piece
  • 1 – 2x2 at 11” – Front Legs
  • 3 – 2x2 at 24” – Back Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 9-3/4” – Upper Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 38” – Lower Side Stretchers
  • 6 – 2x2 at 38” – Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x2 at 26” – Stretcher
  • 1 – 2x2 at 28-1/4” - Stretcher
  • For the Slat option:
  • 7 – 1x2 at 38” – Longer Shelf Slats
  • 7 – 1x2 at 28-1/4” – Shorter Shelf Slats
  • 10 – 1x2 at 28-1/4” – Back Slats
  • 5 – 1x2 at 26” – Cleats
  • 10 – 1x2 at 26” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the angled back. Cut the angle in the top and bottom as shown (approximately 11 degrees).  Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. There will be a right and a left!

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in the stretchers as shown. Assemble the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the remaining stretchers and the back leg. Drill pocket holes in each end then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the center back piece. This piece will be a little tricky in that the angles need to be cut from edge to edge instead of side to side in order for it to be positioned correctly. Drill pocket holes in each end and position as shown. Secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelf slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the slats will be flush with the top face of the frame.

If using the webbing, attach the webbing to the frame according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

If using the slats, continue as follows:

Cut the pieces for the back slats. Cut them all the longer length, and cut the 11 degree angle in one end. (There will be five right slats and five left slats) There will be approximately 1” between the slats. Starting with the upper pieces, drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Mark the position for the next slats and cut them to length. Drill pocket holes in each end of the slats then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket holes. Continue in this manner for the remaining slats.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the cleats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

 

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Position the slats with approximately 1” spacing between them. Secure to the cleats using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

 

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Havana Islita Outdoor Armless Chair! At long last we are bringing this baby BACK! Full frontal fabulousness or something along those lines. Can I get a yahoo?

Note: there are 2 options for building these pieces, one using wood and one using nylon strapping. Choose whichever you prefer!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 8 – 1x2 at 8’

 

 

Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Chair Webbing and fasteners (if using the webbing option)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 12” – Angled Back Piece
  • 2 – 2x2 at 11” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 24” – Back Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 9-3/4” – Upper Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 38” – Lower Side Stretchers
  • 5 – 2x2 at 26” - Stretchers
  • For the Slat option:
  • 5 – 1x2 at 26” – Cleats
  • 22 – 1x2 at 26” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the angled back. Cut the angle in the top and bottom as shown (approximately 11 degrees).  Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side stretchers. Drill pocket holes in the stretchers as shown. Assemble the side frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

 

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the longer stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelf slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the slats will be flush with the top face of the frame.

 If using the webbing, attach the webbing to the frame according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 3
Step 4

If using the slats, continue as follows:

Cut the pieces for the back slats and drill pocket holes in each end.  Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the slats will be flush with the outside face of the frame.

 

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the cleats. Drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Position the slats with approximately 1” spacing between them. Secure to the cleats using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ballard Designs Inspired Original Office Collection Two Drawer Cabinet! ** The components can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. **

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 2 sets of 18” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 16-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 20” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 20-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” - Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 14-7/8” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 11-3/8” x 16-5/8” – Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer opening by 3/8” on the sides, and ¼” at the top and bottom.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. 

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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