Mar
28
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this plan is a great one for adding that extra bit of storage when you prefer to go vertical rather than horizontal. Sometimes horizontal wall space is at a premium... especially if you live in my house. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 7 – 1x6 at 8’
  • Scrap of 2x2 at 15-3/4”
  • 3 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  4 – 4x4 posts at 46-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x4 at 13” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 13” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 40-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 10 – 1x2 at 13” – Drawer Spacers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 35” x 42-3/4” - Back
  • 5 – 2x4 at 35” - Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x4 at 6-1/2” – Center Drawer Divider
  • 1 – 1x4 at 35” – Upper Stretcher
  • 1 – 2x2 at 15-3/4” – Center Drawer Spacer
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 42” - Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 16-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 12 – 1x6 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x6 at 15-3/4” – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 32-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 8 – 1x6 at 34” – Large Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 16-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 34-3/4” – Large Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x4 frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x4 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Secure the frame pieces to the legs, then secure the panel to the legs and the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the panels will be located 1” back from the outside face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the spacers (the side with the pocket holes) will be flush with the inside of the legs.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each shorter edge. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 3

Cut the 2x4 pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the drawer divider and drill pocket holes in the lower end only. Secure to the uppermost stretcher as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the 1x4 piece for the upper stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the upper stretcher into the top of the drawer divider to further secure them in place.

Cut the 2x2 piece for the center drawer spacer. Drill pocket holes in one end only of the 2x2 inner frame piece. Secure to the drawer divider using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the back end of the 2x2 frame piece. The bottom of the drawer spacer will be flush with the top of the stretcher.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the desk frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. 

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jan
02
2014
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Juliette Twin Bed. Plans by special reader request and modified for ease of building for all of you! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 7 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws Bed hardware ( like this )
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 2x2 at 15-3/4” – Footboard Legs
  • 1 – 1x8 at 39” – Footboard
  • 2 – 2x2 at 38-1/4” – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – 1x3 at 39” – Headboard
  • 5 – 1x8 at 39” – Headboard
  • 2 – 1x6 at 75” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 72-3/4” – Slat Support
  • 14 – 1x3 at 40-1/2” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the footboard and the legs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x8 piece. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the footboard will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the headboard and legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of three of the 1x8 pieces, each end of the 1x3 piece, and one long end of four of the 1x8 pieces. Assemble the 1x8 pieces to create a large panel positioning the two pieces without pocket holes at each end at the top (the ends will be cut away). To create the decorative arc at the top, use a large sheet of kraft paper measuring 15” wide x 39” long and fold it in half lengthwise. Start at the top of the fold and draw a curvy line to the opposite corner (here is where you can get really creative!!). Use scissors to cut along the line then unfold the paper. This will be the template for the upper portion of the headboard. Position the paper on the headboard panel and trace around the curve with a pencil. Cut out with a jigsaw.

Attach the panel to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the 1x3 in the same manner as shown.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and the slat supports. Position the slat supports so that the bottom is flush with the bottom of the sides, and locate the pieces approximately 1-1/4” from each edge. Secure the supports to the sides using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Install the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the slats. Position them on the supports, evenly spaced, and fasten in place using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Do not use glue!!

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
10
2013
Project Image

This Chesapeake Bench was my first large project. The photo is not as good as I would like but I hope to add better ones at a later time.

It took about 2 weeks of and on to do it and is very sturdy. The brass hardware is there for 2 reasons 1) it takes the viewers eyes away from some of the errors and it compensates for were I misplaced a couple Pocket Screws which caused a portion of wood to come apart. As I was near the completion and weather was a factor to get it done (I don't have room in my house to paint large projects)

Estimated Cost 

$50 Canadian in wood not including screws and glue.

Length of Time 

2 weeks

Modifications 

Brass Angle brackets x 8 only 1 need but i used 8 for symmetry.

Lumber Used 

1 x 3 Framing Lumber

Finishing Technique 

Behr House & Fence Wood Stain (Oil-Latex Formula Self Priming)

Nov
26
2013
DIY Benchwright Coffee Table

I was in need of a coffee table and loved these plans! Once again, many thanks for the hard work put into creating the plans and a great resource to view them!

Overall the build was very straightforward and the piece turned out extremely solid (I don't think it looks too shabby either!)

There were a few bumps along the way with finishing and one modification I had to make to the plans to accomodate the drawer slides but I'll talk about those in a minute. Thanks for reading!

Here is the back view of the piece. I read in the comments section prior to building about interest in a pull-through drawer design. I thought about doing this and don't think it would have been difficult, but I will say that the 1x6's add a ton of sturdiness to the frame so I'm happy with the direction I went. (P.S. interested in what all you design-y people think I should do for accent pillows in the background…I struggle in that department!)

Top view; I really think the bread boards give it the necessary rustic look. Great design!

Here is the assembled unit prior to finishing. I really liked the character in the pine pieces for the top even without any finish!

Here is the assembled base without the top or drawer slide supports. Notice the vertical pocket holes in the 1x6's pointing towards the top. I drilled these prior to assembly and they were a BIG help with attaching the top during final assembly.

Estimated Cost 

Lumber was right at $100, finishing materials another $75-100. Drawer guides, hardware, and some 2 1/2" pocket screws added another ~ $50. All in all roughly $225-250 is still almost a 70% cost savings.

Length of Time 

I became slightly obsessed and had a marathon assembly night, which resulted in assembling most of the thing in one evening. Prior to that however, there was quite a bit of time spent cutting lumber, sanding each piece, and drilling the endless number of pocket holes. All in all the build probably took 15 hours from raw lumber to an assembled piece. The finish took a lot longer from start to ...err 'finish' because of drying times and the research we had to do to overcome some issues (see below). I'd say another 10 hours of labor was put into the finish. That estimate is an attempt to include the prep time and cleanup of the spray equipment which makes up the bulk of that time.

Modifications 

As I mentioned before, I had to modify the plans to accommodate the drawer slides. The original plans call for 2x2's to be mounted on the inside of the outer 4x4's and on either side of the middle 4x4's. This didn't leave enough width on my piece to mount the drawer slides so I sliced off 1/2" from each drawer slide support to make the pieces right at 1" (2x2's are actually 1 1/2" x 1 1/2"). After this modification, the dimensions were perfect! 

Lumber Used 

I used pine for everything besides the drawer slide supports which were cedar. The only reason for this was that the big box stores had some really nice 2x2's in cedar and I opted for straight lumber. The frame pieces and bottom shelf are all made of FSC certified Premium Pine. I used this for the outdoor Chesapeake Sectional Unit and really liked the results so I went with it again. You can get this from either big box store (blue or orange). The top and legs are made of Number 2 Pine. My dad and I spent a significant amount of time digging through the pallets at the store to find clean pieces and I think it paid off.

Finishing Technique 

Ah the finish...as I mentioned up top, this is where we ran into some bumps. Before I start though, huge shout out to my dad who put in a TON of work with the spray equipment and troubleshooting the issues we ran into. Thanks a ton!

The stain is Mohawk Special Walnut and is lacquer based. I brushed this on after assembly with a china bristle brush. I did keep the base and top separate at this step, but if I were to do it again I think I'd pre-stain as many pieces as possible prior to assembly. All the corners and joints made it hard to achieve an even finish. As a matter of fact, I had to sand down the top after putting on the stain for the first time because it dried unevenly...extremely disheartening but worth the extra work to do it over.

Next we utilized a trick we learned from our local paint shop. Because the project used Number 2 Pine and Premium Pine pieces, the wood took the stain very differently. To combat this, we mixed sanding sealer with a bit of stain and lacquer thinner then sprayed the entire piece in varying amounts. This served two purposes; the first was to shade the different wood to even out the finish and the second was to seal in the stain before the next step.

After the first coat of sanding sealer came a coat of Van Dyke Brown Glaze over the entire piece. This was wiped on with old t-shirt rags. We wiped off the excess, let it dry then sprayed the entire piece again with sanding sealer only this time.

After each coat of sanding sealer dried we very lightly sanded with 220 or 320 grit sandpaper and wiped with a clean rag.

Finally, the entire piece was sprayed with lacquer. I think the base received 2 coats and the top 3. After the first coat went on everything looked beautiful. We let it dry overnight and came back the next morning to find a milky white haze had developed over everything. After consulting with our paint shop again, they said high humidity had caused water vapor to be trapped under the lacquer.

Luckily for us they had a solution which revolved around adding a retarding agent to the lacquer and re-coating the piece. The retarding agent causes the lacquer to dry slower and the water vapor to escape. Also, the lacquer was chemically hot enough to melt through the first layer. This plus some light sanding between each coat fixed everything right up! Huge learning experience which is always good!

Oct
14
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hudson Nightstand. By special reader request we are expanding upon this fabulous collection we started a long time ago in a far off land... At least it feels that way. It's lovely to bring it back full circle and round out our plans for the gorgesou Hudson Collection! Hope you like... Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 - quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – ¼” thick x ¾” wide lattice strips at 8’
  • 1 piece of ¾” cove moulding at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 4 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 4 drawer pulls
  • 1 small pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 16-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 20” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 2x2 at 21-1/2” – Back Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 21-1/2” – Back Panel
  • 6 – 1x2 at 21-1/2” – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16-1/4” – Surface Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 26” – Top
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 17-3/4” x 21-1/4” – Flat Surface
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 19” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 8 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 8 – 1x3 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 4-3/8” x 21-1/4” – Drawer Front Base
  • 8 – ¼” x ¾” strips at 21-1/4” – Drawer Front Trim
  • 8 – ¼” x ¾” strips at 2-7/8” – Drawer Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and the panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the first one as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the remaining stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the surface supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the vertical stretcher and the back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. The piece will overhang the sides and the front by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the surface. After finishing, apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom so it will slide smoothly. Insert into the opening.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs, then make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the trim then attach using glue and 1” brad nails. 

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer front bases and the trim. Position the trim on the bases as shown then secure using glue and ½” brad nails.

Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front in the opening) then drive screws through the holes for the pulls into the drawer boxes. Open the drawer then secure the front with countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Make any necessary adjustments then finish drilling the holes for the pulls.

Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
11
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Caroline Queen Bed! By special reader request... but we created this plan with some modifications that make it easier to build using standard lumber and parts from your local hardware stores! If you prefer to get fancy with the legs, go for it, it will be fabulous! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 20 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x6 at6’
  • 2 – 1x10 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x10 at 8’
  • 2 – 4x4 post at 6’
  • 1 – Half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws 1 set of bed rail brackets (like these)
  • 8 – 9” post finials/feet
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 4x4 posts at 23-1/4” – Footboard Legs
  • 2 – 1x10 (ripped to 9” wide) at 59” – Footboard & Headboard
  • 2 – 4x4 posts at 42-3/4” – Headboard Legs
  • 1 – 1x6 at 59” – Headboard
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 29” x 51” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 1x10 (ripped to 9” wide) at 80” – Side Rails
  • 2 – 1x2 at 80” – Slat Supports
  • 1 – 1x2 at 83” – Center Support
  • 2 – 1x2 at 9” – Center Support Legs
  • 20 – 1x3 at 62” – Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the footboard legs. Drill a hole in the center of the leg matching the depth and diameter of the bolt at the ends of the finials and feet. Attach to the top and bottom of each post. Cut the piece for the footboard. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the piece so that the front face is set back ¼” from the front face of the legs. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the headboard legs and attach the finials and feet in the same manner as in the footboard. Cut the 1x6 and 1x10 pieces for the headboard and drill pocket holes at each end. Cut the piece for the panel and drill pocket holes in the longer edges. Secure the 1x6 piece and the 1x10 piece to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the assembly so that the front face is set back ¼” from the front face of the legs. Secure the headboard assembly to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the side rails and the slat supports. Attach the slat supports to the lower edge of the side rails using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Attach the bed rail hardware according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the center support and the support legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the support, as well as one end of each leg. Secure the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the support to the headboard and footboard as shown using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Do not use glue!

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the slats. Attach to the supports spacing them 1” apart using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Do not use glue!

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

drupal counter