Browse all Free Woodworking Plans for the Entryway

Jul
19
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Project Details

By special reader request, these fabulous Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Dawson Large Desk and perfect for those of you who need a wide solid work surface! I can see this in so many different and gorgeous finishes and with the flip of a drawer pull, this beauty will transform from rustic to vintage and even to modern! Can't wait to see what you do! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 3 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 4x4 posts at 6’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 4x4 posts at 30-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 19-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 19-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” –Upper Side Drawer Spacers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 19-1/2” – Lower Side Drawer Spacers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 61” – Back
  • 1 – 2x4 at 61” – Lower Stretcher
  • 2 – 2x4 at 15” – Lower Drawer Frame Side
  • 2 – 2x4 at 17” – Lower Drawer Frame Bottom
  • 2 – 2x4 at 3-1/2” – Upper Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – 1x4 at 61” – Upper Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x3 at 22-1/4” – Inner Drawer Spacers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 22-1/4” – Inner Panel Frame
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 22-1/4” – Inner Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 26-1/2” x 68” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 16” – Large Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1x3 at 22-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x3 at 16” – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 22-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 23” – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 16-3/4” – Large Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 16-3/4” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 23-3/4” – Center Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes on the top frame piece so they face up, and the pocket holes on the lower frame piece will face down. This way, they will be hidden and won’t have to be filled.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure the panels to the legs and the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the panels will be located 1” back from the outside face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower drawer spacers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the spacers (the side with the pocket holes) will be flush with the inside of the legs.

Desk Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Desk Side Drawer Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 2

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each shorter edge. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Desk Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 3

Cut the 2x4 piece for the lower stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the lower drawer frames. Drill pocket holes in the upper end only of the 15” pieces, and both ends of the 17” pieces.  Assemble the pieces in an “L” shape (as shown) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Secure the assemblies to the legs and the lower stretcher using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Lower Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Lower Drawer Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in one end only. Secure to the top of the lower stretcher using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the 1x4 piece for the upper stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the upper stretcher into the top of the drawer dividers to further secure them in place.

Upper Drawer Dividers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Upper Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 5

 Cut the 1x4 pieces for the inner drawer spacers and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the vertical lower frame pieces and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The spacer pieces should be flush with the inside face of the vertical pieces to allow for the inner sides to be positioned.

Cut the pieces for the inner panels and 2x2 frame piece. Drill pocket holes in the top and side edges of the panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of the 2x2 inner frame piece.

Secure the panel to the frame piece using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panel (without pocket holes) will be flush with the outside face of the 2x2. There will be a left and a right – the pocket holes in the 2x2 pieces will face opposite directions to secure to the vertical lower drawer frame piece.

Secure the inner panel assembly to the back and the vertical lower drawer frame piece. Use glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the inner panel, and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the 2x2 frame piece. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the back end of the 2x2 frame piece. 

Inner Drawer Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Inner Panels with Pocket Holes from Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Installing Inner Panels using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the desk frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. 

Fastening the Top in Place with a Nail Gun for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Center Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Center Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Large Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Large Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Small Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Small Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Dawson Large Desk
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Jul
03
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans and instructions on How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart. Short on space? Need a versatile piece that you can use inside and outside? This Kitchen Island Cart would be the perfect BBQ companion for you summer soirees and a fabulous addition to your kitchen arsenal! Can't wait to see your builds of this!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 31-1/4” – Legs
  • 8 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 16-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 8 – 1x2 at 40” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 40” – Back Panel
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 40” – Shelf
  • 11 – 1x3 at 16-1/2” – Slats
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 18” – Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/2” x 45” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 17-1/8” - Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4” x 18-5/8” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 20-1/8” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side frame pieces as well as both long edges of the panels. Secure two of the frame pieces to the top and bottom of each panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face out from the panel. Attach the assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

The lower side frame pieces will be positioned on end with the back face flush with the inside face of the legs. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Build the Cart Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame pieces, the back panel, and the back stretchers. Drill pocket holes ine ach end of the frame pieces as well as each end of the stretchers. Secure two of the frame pieces to the top and bottom of the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face out from the panel. Attach the assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

The lower stretchers will be positioned on end with the back face flush with the inside face of the legs. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Diagram of Cart Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the lower front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of each piece will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Instructions for Building the Lower Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 4

Cut the piece for the shelf and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the lower stretchers and frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom face of the shelf will be flush with the bottom of the stretchers and frame pieces.

Instructions for Building the Cart Shelf for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Position them so that there is approximately 1-1/4” spacing between them. Secure to the longer front and back stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.Cut the pieces for the slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Position them so that there is approximately 1-1/4” spacing between them. Secure to the longer front and back stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.Cut the pieces for the slats and drill pocket holes in each end. Position them so that there is approximately 1-1/4” spacing between them. Secure to the longer front and back stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Instructions for attaching the Cart Slats for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the upper front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Instructions for attaching the Front Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 7

 

Cut the piece for the divider. Cut the notch using a jigsaw. Position the divider as shown and secure to the back and front stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the stretchers and through the back.

Instruction for the Cart Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Attaching the Cart Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang all sides by 1”. Secure to the stretchers and legs using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Instructions for cutting and attaching the Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Make any necessary adjustments.

 

Drawer Box Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Drawer Box Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Position the drawer fronts so that ¼” overlaps on all sides, then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

For all drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Joaquin Kitchen Island Cart
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

To view enlarged images, simply click on them to expand. 

Jun
13
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Project Details

While we are hard at work reenginering most of our outdoor seating and lounge plans to work with less expensive cushions, I thought I would bring you a gorgeous modern buffet build! This large piece would be fabulous in an entryway or whever you need extra strorage including it's potential use in a bedroom and as a place to set your tv! A buffet is ust so versitile really, don't you think? 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 9 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 56-1/2” – Base Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 13” – Base Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 58-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 31-3/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 31-3/4” x 57” – Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 57” – Lower Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x2 at 24” – Lower Dividers
  • 6 – 2x2 at 15-3/4” – Shelf Supports & Drawer Slide Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 57” – Shelf
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6-1/4” – Upper Dividers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 58-1/2” – Upper Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 58-1/2” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 17” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 36 – 1x3 at 19-1/4” – Drawer Front Slats & Door Slats
  • 6 – 1x3 at 23-3/4” – Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Base Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position on the base so that 1” overlaps the sides and back (1/4” will overlap the front edge). Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Buffet Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each of the shorter edges. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Buffet Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Buffet Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 5

Cut the piece for the lower stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the lower dividers and shelf supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the dividers. Attach to the bottom and lower stretcher as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the shelf supports as shown. Secure the outer supports to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the outer face of the sides into the support. Secure the inner supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the dividers and back into the ends of the supports.

DIY Buffet Lower Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
DIY Buffet Lower Divider Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 6

Cut the piece for the shelf. Position as shown, then secure to the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Buffet Shelf for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the upper dividers and supports. Drill pocket holes in one end only of the dividers and secure to the lower stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the drawer slide supports as shown. Secure the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the dividers and back into the ends of the supports.

Upper Divider Supports for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 8

Cut the piece for the upper stretcher. Secure to the cabinet sides and upper dividers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the front by ½”. Secure to the sides, back, and upper stretcher using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Install the drawer, then make any necessary adjustments.

Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer front slats. Install the front slats on the outer drawers first. The outside edge of the pieces will be flush with the outer face of the sides and there will be a 1/8” gap between the upper slat and the upper stretcher. Position the slats as indicated then secure to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the slats into the drawer boxes. There will be a 3/8” gap between the outer drawer front slats and the center drawer front slats with a 1/8” gap between the upper slat and the upper stretcher. Position the slats as indicated then secure to the drawer boxes using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the slats into the drawer boxes.

Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. Position the slats as indicated in the drawing. Secure the vertical pieces using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Install the European hinges according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. Install the outer doors first, with the outside edges flush with the outside face of the sides. The bottom edge of the doors will be flush with the bottom. Make any necessary adjustments.

Install the center door with a 3/8” gap between the outer doors and the center door using the regular cabinet hinges mounted to the face of the divider. Make any necessary adjustments.

Door for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Doors for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Highland Buffet
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

May
30
2014
Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Project Details

I promised you all a whole new set of outdoor furniture plans, and by golly that is precisely what you are going to get! Yahoo! We started this off with the gorgeous Free DIY Outdoor Furniture Plans for Building a Crosby Indoor Outdoor Coffee Table and today we continue with plans for building the end table!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Tools
Lumber

3 - 1x4 at 8'

2 - 2x2 at 8'

Materials
Cut List

6 - 1x4 at 21 3/4" Top

2 - 1x4 at 20 1/4" Frame

2 - 1x4 at 11 1/2" Supports

4 - 2x2 at 20 11/16" Legs

2 - 2x2 at 11 3/4" Stretchers

2 - 2x2 at 17" Trusses 

1 - 2x2 at 17 1/4" Center Rail

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build out your frame. Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1-1/4” Pocket Hole Screws and Wood glue to secure the pieces together. Use your Clamps to hold the boards together while you secure them and consider letting your glue setup for a bit before you fasten with your screws. 

Frame for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 2

Cut and Fasten your Legs. Your legs will be mitered at 8.2 Degrees Off Center, which is an 81.8 Degree Angle if you Center Mark on your Miter Saw reads as 90 rather than 0. Your cuts will be parallel at both ends. To secure your legs in place, use your countersink bit and 1 1/2" wood screws and glue. 

Legs for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 3

Attach your Stretchers. These are just a straight cut and will be fastened in place 3" up from ground level. You can fasten these in place using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue. You will want to align the front edges of your stretchers with the front edges of your legs, which will cause a bit of overhang on the backside, but will look better. 

**Note: If you cut your Center Rail for the next step in advance you may want to attach it to the stretchers and then attach the stretchers to the legs, just to be sure you don't end up with a piece that is either too long or too short and have to recut or refasten something.

Stretchers for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 4

Cut and Attach your Center Rail. Since the previous step leaves a bit of wiggle room, you may want to measure this just before you are ready to attach it and after you have secured your stretchers so you know precisely how long this piece should be. Once you have this piece cut and ready to secure, use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to secure from underneath. 

Center Rails for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 5

Cut and Fasten your Trusses in Place. Cut these at a 20 Degree Angle. Secure in place using your countersink drill bit and 1 1/2" wood screws and glue from underneath up through the center rail and from above and down through the frame. Since these will sit astride the frame pieces at the top, secure at a slight angle so you don't accidentially come out the side of your truss. 

Trusses for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 6

Fasten your Frame to your Top Boards. Your Top Boards should be spaced 1/4" apart and the frame should sit 6" in on either side and 1" back on the front and back. Secure in place from underneath using your 1 1/4" Brad Nails and Glue. You can also use screws if you prefer or if you will need to remove the top in the future for any reason. 

Table Top for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

May
12
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Project Details

By Special Reader Request, this fabulous DIY furniture plan for building your own storage accessory tower is a lovely budget friendly solution that is just perfect for keeping all of your odds and ends, your craft supplies, maybe your jewelry, or socks, bathing suits and the like. All I see is drawers galore and I go crazy for organization and orderly goodness! Do you crave this in your lives right now too? Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Tools
Lumber
  • 7 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 4’
  • 1 sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 3” trim at 8’
  • Scraps of 1x material at 24”
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 42-1/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x4 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 17-7/8” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2”x 42-1/4” - Back
  • 9 – 1x2 at 20-1/2” - Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x4 at 20-1/2” - Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 24-3/4” - Top
  • 2 – 3” trim at 14-1/2” – Lower Side Trim
  • 1 – 3” trim at 24-1/2” – Lower Front Trim
  • 9 – ¼” plywood at 12” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 14 – 1x2 at 10-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Frame
  • 14 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Frame
  • 4 – 1x8 (ripped to 5-3/4” wide) at 10-1/2” – Larger Drawer Frame
  • 4 – 1x8 (ripped to 5-3/4” wide) at 19-1/2” – Larger Drawer Frame
  • 11 – 1x3 at 20-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 1x material (ripped to 7/8” wide) at 20-1/4” Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side stretchers, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side stretchers.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each panel. Secure the stretchers to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the back face of the stretchers.

Secure the side assemblies to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the stretchers into the legs, and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the panels into the legs.

Constructing the Sides for the Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back and drill pocket holes in each longer side. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the back will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Building the Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x4 stretcher. Secure the 1x2 stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the 2x4 stretcher to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attaching the Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang by ½” at the sides and front. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Fastening the Top in Place for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the trim. No dimension is given for the side pieces – it will depend on if it will be a flush cut or a miter cut. Secure the sides first, then cut and secure the front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Nail the Trim in Place for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end f the drawer box side pieces. Assemble the drawer frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms and secure them to each frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front face of the legs. 

Tower Small Drawer Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Tower Small Drawer Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Tower Large Drawer Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Tower Large Drawer Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

For the larger drawers fronts, start by shimming the lower piece in place with a 1/8” gap between the 1x3 piece and the stretcher. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Place the 7/8” piece above the 1x3 piece with a 1/8” gap, and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Place the remaining 1x3 piece above the 7/8” piece with a 1/8” gap, and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Repeat for the other large drawer.

Installing the Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

May
07
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Project Details

By special reader request, this amazing ultimate rustic bar is the perfect DIY furniture plan for the entertainer! Whether you prefer your parties indoors or outdoors, this project is the complete party package (alcohol not included of course).

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 10 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  4 – 1x4 at 41-1/4” – Side Legs
  • 6 – 1x4 at 16” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1/2” plywood at 13-3/8” x 16” – Side Panels
  • 3 – 1x4 at 35-1/2” – Front Frame
  • 2 – 1x4 at 41-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 13-3/8” x 35-1/2” – Front Panels
  • 2 – 1x4 at 37” – Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x4 at 37-3/4” – Back Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/4” x 42-1/2” – Bottom Shelf
  • 1 – 1x3 at 26-3/4” – Cabinet Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/4” x 29-3/8” - Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 22-1/4” - Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/4” x 22-1/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – 1x2 at 17-3/4” – Drawer Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 22-1/4” – Drawer Slide Spacer
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/4” x 42-1/2” - Countertop
  • 2 – 1x4 at 22-1/4” – Inner Top Spacers
  • 1 – 1x4 at 37” – Inner Top Spacer
  • 2 – 1x4 at 6-3/4” – Top Frame Back
  • 3 – 1x4 at 3-1/4” – Top Frame Spacers
  • 2 – 1x4 at 26-1/4” – Top Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1x4 at 50-1/2” - Top Frame Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 27-3/4” x 50-1/2” - Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/4” x 20-1/2” Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 1x4 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1x3 at 11-1/2” – Door Rails
  • 2 – 1x3 at 26-1/2” – Door Stiles
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 11-1/2” x 21-1/2” – Door Panel
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the legs and the frame pieces using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Bar Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the legs, front frame, and panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as one long edge of each leg. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the legs and the frame pieces using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Secure the entire front assembly to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Bar Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Bar Front 2 for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the back legs and frame pieces.  Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Secure the back frame to the side legs using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Back Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 4

 Cut the piece for the bottom shelf and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the lower frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the under side.

Cut the piece for the cabinet divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the bottom, front frame, and cabinet divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the divider (without pocket holes) will be flush with the back edge of the cabinet divider.

Bottom Shelf for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Cabinet Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Position in each side of the cabinet and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Shelves for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 6

 Cut the piece for the drawer divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back leg and cabinet divider as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the drawer slide spacer and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back leg and the front leg as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the spacer will line up with the top of the drawer divider.

Drawer Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Drawer Spacer for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 7

Cut the piece for the countertop and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the legs and panels into the countertop. The top face of the countertop will be flush with the top face of the back frame. Add a few 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the divider into the underside of the countertop.

Cut the pieces for the inner top frame and drill pocket holes at one end as well as one long edge. Secure to the front panel and countertop as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the inner frame sides and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Secure to the sides and countertop using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Counter Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Inner Bar Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Inner Bar Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the top frame back. Secure to the side frame and inner top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the top frame spacers and drill pocket holes in one end. Secure to the front frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the top frame sides and drill pocket holes in one end. Secure to the back frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top frame front. Position as shown then secure to the sides and spacers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Bar Frame Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Bar Frame Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Bar Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Bar Frame Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 9

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Top 2 for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Cut the pieces for the drawer front. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Drawer Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the door. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rails then assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the panel in the frame using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame.

Install the hinges on the door, then install the door in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pull.

Door for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Installing the Door for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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