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May
30
2014
Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Project Details

I promised you all a whole new set of outdoor furniture plans, and by golly that is precisely what you are going to get! Yahoo! We started this off with the gorgeous Free DIY Outdoor Furniture Plans for Building a Crosby Indoor Outdoor Coffee Table and today we continue with plans for building the end table! If you want to take a peak at a few of our most popular outdoor furniture plans to date, this article here covers our Top 10 DIY Outdoor Furniture Plans and Reader Faves! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Tools
Lumber

3 - 1x4 at 8'

2 - 2x2 at 8'

Materials
Cut List

6 - 1x4 at 21 3/4" Top

2 - 1x4 at 20 1/4" Frame

2 - 1x4 at 11 1/2" Supports

4 - 2x2 at 20 11/16" Legs

2 - 2x2 at 11 3/4" Stretchers

2 - 2x2 at 17" Trusses 

1 - 2x2 at 17 1/4" Center Rail

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build out your frame. Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1-1/4” Pocket Hole Screws and Wood glue to secure the pieces together. Use your Clamps to hold the boards together while you secure them and consider letting your glue setup for a bit before you fasten with your screws. 

Frame for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 2

Cut and Fasten your Legs. Your legs will be mitered at 8.2 Degrees Off Center, which is an 81.8 Degree Angle if you Center Mark on your Miter Saw reads as 90 rather than 0. Your cuts will be parallel at both ends. To secure your legs in place, use your countersink bit and 1 1/2" wood screws and glue. 

Legs for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 3

Attach your Stretchers. These are just a straight cut and will be fastened in place 3" up from ground level. You can fasten these in place using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue. You will want to align the front edges of your stretchers with the front edges of your legs, which will cause a bit of overhang on the backside, but will look better. 

**Note: If you cut your Center Rail for the next step in advance you may want to attach it to the stretchers and then attach the stretchers to the legs, just to be sure you don't end up with a piece that is either too long or too short and have to recut or refasten something.

Stretchers for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 4

Cut and Attach your Center Rail. Since the previous step leaves a bit of wiggle room, you may want to measure this just before you are ready to attach it and after you have secured your stretchers so you know precisely how long this piece should be. Once you have this piece cut and ready to secure, use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to secure from underneath. 

Center Rails for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 5

Cut and Fasten your Trusses in Place. Cut these at a 20 Degree Angle. Secure in place using your countersink drill bit and 1 1/2" wood screws and glue from underneath up through the center rail and from above and down through the frame. Since these will sit astride the frame pieces at the top, secure at a slight angle so you don't accidentially come out the side of your truss. 

Trusses for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Step 6

Fasten your Frame to your Top Boards. Your Top Boards should be spaced 1/4" apart and the frame should sit 6" in on either side and 1" back on the front and back. Secure in place from underneath using your 1 1/4" Brad Nails and Glue. You can also use screws if you prefer or if you will need to remove the top in the future for any reason. 

Table Top for Free Outdoor Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crosby Indoor Outdoor End Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

May
12
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Project Details

By Special Reader Request, this fabulous DIY furniture plan for building your own storage accessory tower is a lovely budget friendly solution that is just perfect for keeping all of your odds and ends, your craft supplies, maybe your jewelry, or socks, bathing suits and the like. All I see is drawers galore and I go crazy for organization and orderly goodness! Do you crave this in your lives right now too? Xx... Rayan

Psst... If you like this DIY furniture plan you might also like some of our other easy to build and budget friendly plans for diy storage projects like the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Dawson Tallboy Dresser or the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Tribeca Double Storage Case 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Tools
Lumber
  • 7 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 4’
  • 1 sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 3” trim at 8’
  • Scraps of 1x material at 24”
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 42-1/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x4 at 11-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 17-7/8” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2”x 42-1/4” - Back
  • 9 – 1x2 at 20-1/2” - Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x4 at 20-1/2” - Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 24-3/4” - Top
  • 2 – 3” trim at 14-1/2” – Lower Side Trim
  • 1 – 3” trim at 24-1/2” – Lower Front Trim
  • 9 – ¼” plywood at 12” x 19-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 14 – 1x2 at 10-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Frame
  • 14 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Frame
  • 4 – 1x8 (ripped to 5-3/4” wide) at 10-1/2” – Larger Drawer Frame
  • 4 – 1x8 (ripped to 5-3/4” wide) at 19-1/2” – Larger Drawer Frame
  • 11 – 1x3 at 20-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 1x material (ripped to 7/8” wide) at 20-1/4” Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side stretchers, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side stretchers.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each panel. Secure the stretchers to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panels will be flush with the back face of the stretchers.

Secure the side assemblies to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the stretchers into the legs, and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the panels into the legs.

Constructing the Sides for the Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back and drill pocket holes in each longer side. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the back will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Building the Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x4 stretcher. Secure the 1x2 stretchers to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the 2x4 stretcher to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attaching the Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang by ½” at the sides and front. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Fastening the Top in Place for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the trim. No dimension is given for the side pieces – it will depend on if it will be a flush cut or a miter cut. Secure the sides first, then cut and secure the front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Nail the Trim in Place for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end f the drawer box side pieces. Assemble the drawer frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms and secure them to each frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front face of the legs. 

Tower Small Drawer Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Tower Small Drawer Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Tower Large Drawer Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Tower Large Drawer Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

For the larger drawers fronts, start by shimming the lower piece in place with a 1/8” gap between the 1x3 piece and the stretcher. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Place the 7/8” piece above the 1x3 piece with a 1/8” gap, and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Place the remaining 1x3 piece above the 7/8” piece with a 1/8” gap, and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Repeat for the other large drawer.

Installing the Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans on How to Build a Shelby Accessory Tower
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

May
07
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Project Details

By special reader request, this amazing ultimate rustic bar is the perfect DIY furniture plan for the entertainer! Whether you prefer your parties indoors or outdoors, this project is the complete party package (alcohol not included of course). If you like this plan, you might also like our plans for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Joss and Main Inspired Foxton Bar and Game Table or the Jasper Serving and Bar Cart, and perhaps the Naldi Stemware Rack to finish off the party pack of projects! To see other Free DIY Furniture Plans like these, visit our Plan Index page and choose Entertaining from the menu! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 10 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  4 – 1x4 at 41-1/4” – Side Legs
  • 6 – 1x4 at 16” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1/2” plywood at 13-3/8” x 16” – Side Panels
  • 3 – 1x4 at 35-1/2” – Front Frame
  • 2 – 1x4 at 41-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 13-3/8” x 35-1/2” – Front Panels
  • 2 – 1x4 at 37” – Back Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x4 at 37-3/4” – Back Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/4” x 42-1/2” – Bottom Shelf
  • 1 – 1x3 at 26-3/4” – Cabinet Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/4” x 29-3/8” - Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 22-1/4” - Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-1/4” x 22-1/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – 1x2 at 17-3/4” – Drawer Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 22-1/4” – Drawer Slide Spacer
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/4” x 42-1/2” - Countertop
  • 2 – 1x4 at 22-1/4” – Inner Top Spacers
  • 1 – 1x4 at 37” – Inner Top Spacer
  • 2 – 1x4 at 6-3/4” – Top Frame Back
  • 3 – 1x4 at 3-1/4” – Top Frame Spacers
  • 2 – 1x4 at 26-1/4” – Top Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1x4 at 50-1/2” - Top Frame Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 27-3/4” x 50-1/2” - Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/4” x 20-1/2” Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 1x4 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 16-3/4” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1x3 at 11-1/2” – Door Rails
  • 2 – 1x3 at 26-1/2” – Door Stiles
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 11-1/2” x 21-1/2” – Door Panel
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the legs and the frame pieces using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Bar Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the legs, front frame, and panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as one long edge of each leg. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the legs and the frame pieces using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Secure the entire front assembly to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Bar Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Bar Front 2 for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the back legs and frame pieces.  Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Secure the back frame to the side legs using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Back Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 4

 Cut the piece for the bottom shelf and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the lower frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the under side.

Cut the piece for the cabinet divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the bottom, front frame, and cabinet divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the divider (without pocket holes) will be flush with the back edge of the cabinet divider.

Bottom Shelf for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Cabinet Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in the side and back edges. Position in each side of the cabinet and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Shelves for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 6

 Cut the piece for the drawer divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back leg and cabinet divider as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the drawer slide spacer and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the back leg and the front leg as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The bottom of the spacer will line up with the top of the drawer divider.

Drawer Stretcher for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Drawer Spacer for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 7

Cut the piece for the countertop and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the legs and panels into the countertop. The top face of the countertop will be flush with the top face of the back frame. Add a few 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the divider into the underside of the countertop.

Cut the pieces for the inner top frame and drill pocket holes at one end as well as one long edge. Secure to the front panel and countertop as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the inner frame sides and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Secure to the sides and countertop using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Counter Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Inner Bar Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Inner Bar Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the top frame back. Secure to the side frame and inner top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the top frame spacers and drill pocket holes in one end. Secure to the front frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the top frame sides and drill pocket holes in one end. Secure to the back frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the top frame front. Position as shown then secure to the sides and spacers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Bar Frame Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Bar Frame Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Bar Frame Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Bar Frame Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 9

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Top 2 for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Cut the pieces for the drawer front. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Drawer Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the door. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rails then assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center panel. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure the panel in the frame using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame.

Install the hinges on the door, then install the door in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pull.

Door for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Installing the Door for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Ultimate Rustic Bar
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

May
05
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Project Details

A fun DIY Furniture build for a stylish buffet or sideboard that can easily double as a media cabinet or console table depending on where you need it and how you style it! If you are in the market for a DIY furniture plans for an easy to build buffet or a budget friendly console table of a different style, be sure to check out our plan index, it is loaded to the brim with great stuff! Xx.. Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 2’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’ (it may be more economical to rip 2 – 2x4s in half)
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 18” - Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 14” – Base Sides
  • 2 – 2x2 at 43” – Base Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 54” – Shelf Frame
  • 2 – 2x2 at 11” – Shelf Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 43” - Shelf
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 70” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 17” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 68-1/2” - Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Dividers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 23” – Drawer Stretcher
  • 2 - ¾” plywood at  12-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1x6 at 12-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x6 at 22” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/8” x 22-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 22-5/8” - Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side and stretcher pieces. Attach the sides and stretchers to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1 How to Build the Base for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the shelf and the shelf frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter frame pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood shelf piece. Secure inside the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelf will be flush with the top face of the frame.

Position the frame on the legs as shown. Secure in place using glue and 3” countersunk screws.

Step 2 for the Shelf of Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 2a for the Shelf portion of Step 2 for the Shelf of Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 3

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position on the base as shown – the sides will overhang by 12” while the front and back will be flush. Secure to the base using glue and countersunk 1-1/2” screws.

Step 3 How to Build the Buffet Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build the Kiko Buffet
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4 Building the Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build the Kiko Buffet
Step 5

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5 Attaching the Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back edge. Treat the pieces as a left and a right – this way, the pocket holes will be hidden by the drawers and won’t have to be filled. Secure to the bottom and the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6 Add the Dividers for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 7

 Cut the piece for the drawer stretcher and drill pocket hole screws in each end. Secure to the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7 Fasten the Drawer Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 8

 Cut the piece for the top. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the back, sides, and dividers into the underside of the top.

Step 8 Attach the Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 9 Build the Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 9 Build the Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. 

Step 10 Attaching the Drawer Faces for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

Step 11 Attaching the Doors for Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Kiko Buffet
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Apr
21
2014
Project Details

A fabulous nightstand for storage and to set your lighting and a few display items and pretties. This piece sits at a moderate height and will accommodate those of you who don't love a really high nightstand but don't want a tiny little thing either. A nice substantial size and width with a good set of legs, if I do say so... Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 21-1/4” – Legs
  • 8 – 1x2 at 22” – Side Frames, Back Frame, Front Stretchers
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 22” – Side & Back Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22” x 22” - Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 23-1/2” - Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12-1/4” – Drawer Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/2” x 26” - Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/4” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x3 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x3 at 11-1/4” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 12” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-3/4” x 15-1/2” - Door
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as all four edges of the panels. Attach the frame pieces to the panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame pieces and back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well as all four edges of the panel. Attach the frame pieces to the panel as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back edge of the frame pieces. Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Orient the pocket holes so the top stretcher faces up and the lower stretcher faces down. This way, the pocket holes will be hidden and not have to be filled. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position in the cabinet and secure to the lower stretcher, and lower back and side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the divider and cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the back and bottom edges as shown. These will be hidden in the drawer bank and will not have to be filled. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. The front and side edges will overhang by ½”. Spread glue on the top of the upper stretchers, position the top, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the side and divider. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

Step 10

Cut the piece for the door. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post contains affiliate links

Apr
16
2014
Project Details

A gorgeous dresser for all of your storage needs! Dress this beauty up, add detailing or leave it simple and modern as it currently is! I love that it's entirely up to you! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$150-$200

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 3 – 1x2 at 8’ OR
  • Cut all of the 1x2 strips from the plywood so that the species of the wood matches
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 66-1/2” - Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 31-1/2” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 30-3/4” x 66-1/2” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 30-3/4” - Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 64” - Base
  • 3 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” - Base
  • 4 – 1x2 at 32-7/8” - Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 68” - Top
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 30-3/8” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 12 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 12 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 31-7/8” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 8 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/16” x 33-15/16” – Drawer Front Slats
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-7/16” x 33-15/16” – Drawer Front Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom. Secure the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position the back inside the sides, resting on the bottom, and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in the back and bottom edges. Secure to the back and bottom of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the base. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Also drill pocket holes along the long edges of each piece. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the base frame on the bottom as indicated in the drawing. Secure to the base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides and divider as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the back, and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and divider.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them flush with the front of the sides and divider. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. The top and bottom slat pieces are wider than the center slat pieces (see the drawing). The top slats will be flush with the top edge of the dresser, all slats will be flush with the sides. There will be a 1/8” gap between the slats as well as at the center. Starting with the top slats, secure to the drawer box using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Space the remaining slats, then secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails working your way down.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post Contains Affiliate Links

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