Browse all Free Woodworking Plans for the Entryway

Mar
24
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this fabulous multi-function piece serves as storage, display, and of course easily divides a space into multiple living areas. You know I love a good multi-function piece so this is a no brainer, especially since it's a rather straightforward build! Easy Peasy in fact... Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 3” x 3” posts at 8’ (If 3” x 3” posts cannot be found, 4” x 4” posts can be ripped down on a table saw, or a stacked 1x3 and 2x3 which have been glued together can be used as well.)
  • 3 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1- 2’x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 3” x 3” posts cut at 78-3/4” – Legs
  • 6 – 1x2 at 40-1/2” Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 40-1/2” - Stretchers
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 40-1/2” – Narrow Shelves
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 40-1/2” – Wider Shelves
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretchers will be flush with the front face of the legs. Make two of the assemblies.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the narrower shelves and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the shelves to the legs and the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the wider shelves and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure the shelves to the legs at the dimensions indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
21
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, a tower shelving unit to use as a stand alone bar! Isn't it dreamy? I absolutely love this idea, you guys are so clever! Ps... we will hopefully have our forum back up and running and (fingers crossed) working better than ever here soon. It will be a place you enjoy hanging out I think and the perfect place for you to request plans, ask questions, and share your amazing knowledge! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 7 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 2 - sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 - 8’ piece of decorative trim approx. ¾” x ¾”
Materials
Cut List
  •  6 – 1x2 at 15” – Lower Shelf Trim & Lower Top
  • 4 – 1x2 at 27” – Lower Shelf Trim
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 27” – Lower Shelves & Lower Top
  • 4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – Lower Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/8” x 27” – Lower Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 17-3/8” – Lower Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 15” – Drawer Spacers
  • 3 – 1x2 at 27” – Lower Stretchers & Upper Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 12-1/8” – Lower Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 30” – Lower Top Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 49-1/4” – Upper Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 27” x 49-1/4” – Upper Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Upper Side Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 32” – Upper Top
  • Upper trim cut to fit
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/4” x 27” – Upper Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 26” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 26-3/4” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-7/8” x 12-7/8” – Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the lower shelves, the lower shelf trim, and the lower legs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the trim pieces, as well as all four edges of the shelf pieces. Secure the trim pieces to the shelves using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Secure the shelves to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the lower back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the legs and the upper shelf using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the back piece will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the legs and the upper shelf using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the sides will be flush with the side faces of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers. Position as shown, then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the lower divider. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the stretcher and the shelf trim.

Step 5

 Cut the trim pieces and the panel for the lower top. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the top, as well as each end of the shorter trim pieces. Secure the trim pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the lower top so that it is flush with the legs, sides, back, and stretcher. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the upper legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of two of the legs (for the back) and one end only of the remaining two. Secure them at each corner of the lower top (with the pocket holes facing to the back) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the upper back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the legs and the lower top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the back piece will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the upper top. The piece will overhang by 1” at the sides and front. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the upper trim. There are no dimensions given because it will depend on the type of trim that is chosen. Cut and install the sides first, securing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then cut and install the front.

Step 9

Install the shelving standards on the upper back locating them approximately 8” from the center of the back. (See the manufacturer’s installation instructions) Install the shelf brackets, then cut the shelves and set in place.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs. Make any necessary adjustments. Cut the pieces for the drawer front. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors. Install the hinges on the doors, then mark and install the hinges on the legs. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post contains affiliate links

Mar
19
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, the very fabulous Morris Chair! To construct your own cushions using foam, the measurements would be 20" x 24" x 2" for the back cushion and 20" x 24" x 4" for the seat cusion. All I have is spring and the outdoors on my mind, so I envision this might make a nice outdoor chair as well as a classic indoor chair. The original designer just may be rolling over in his grave at the moment, now that I mentioned that, but I believe in using things to their fullest so to heck with it all, ha! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – ¾” dowel rods at 3’
  • 4 – caps to fit on the end of the dowels
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 2 – 3x3 posts at 3’ (or make your own by laminating 2 – 2x4s together then squaring and ripping to size on the table saw)
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x6 at 25-5/16” – Back Legs
  • 2 – 3x3 posts at 27-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1x4 (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) at 20” – Upper Side Frame
  • 2 – 1x6 at 20” – Lower Side Frame
  • 6 – 1x2 at 7” – Side Frame Spindles
  • 1 – 1x6 at 24” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 24” – Seat Frame Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 22-1/2” – Seat Frame Front
  • 2 – 1x2 at 20-3/16” - Seat Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1x2 at 19-5/16” – Seat Frame Support
  • 2 – 1x4 at 33-3/4” – Arm Rests
  • 6 – 1x3 at 24” – Seat Slats
  • 2 – 1x2 at 24-1/2” – Back Frame
  • 6 – 1x3 at 22-1/2” – Back Frame Slats
  • 2 – ¾” dowel rods at 28” – Seat Pivot & Back Adjustment
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

There are several pieces that will have angles cut in the ends or bevels cut on the edges. It may be easiest to mark all of the pieces as they are cut.

Cut the pieces for the back legs, the side frames, the side spindles, and the front legs. The top of the back legs and the front legs will have a 5° angle cut in the top edge. The top frame pieces will be 1x3s that are ripped to 3-1/4” wide, then tapered to 1-1/2” at one end. The taper can be cut using a jigsaw or by using a tapering jig on the table saw. When drilling pocket holes in these two pieces, they will be treated as a right and a left – mark the pieces accordingly.

Using the ¾” paddle bit or hole saw, drill a hole in the back legs as indicated in the drawing. There will be a right piece and a left piece!

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the upper frame pieces, the lower frame pieces, and the spindles. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The inside of the frames will be flush with the inside face of the front 3x3 legs. Don’t forget – there will be a right frame and a left frame!

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the front stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the end frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the stretcher will be flush with the inside face of the front legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the seat frame. The entire seat will slant to the back by 5°. The front and back pieces will have a 5° bevel cut along one long edge while the side and support frame pieces will have a 5° angle cut in each end. Drill pocket holes in each end of the front frame piece and the center support, then drill pocket holes in the back end only of the side frame pieces. There will be a right and a left side frame piece!

Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the frame to the lower side frame pieces and the front stretcher as shown – the front is located 2-1/4” down from the top of the front stretcher and 4” down from the top of the side stretcher. Secure in place using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the arm rests. Secure to the front legs, back legs, and upper frame piece using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Space them approximately 1” apart, then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws or brad nails.

Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the back frame. Mark the radius in each end of the back frame pieces and cut using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Mark the position for the holes, and cut them using a ¾” paddle bit or hole saw.

Cut the pieces for the back slats. Secure them to the back frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws or brad nails. The upper hole (to adjust the position of the back) should fall in between slats.

Cut one of the ¾” dowel rods. Apply a coat of paste wax on the rod then thread through the hole in one back leg, through the lower holes in the back, and have it come out the hole in the opposite back leg. Glue a cap on each end of the rod so that it doesn’t slip or get pulled out.

Step 7

 The holes in the back legs to adjust the position of the back will be drilled last. They are not shown in the drawing because they have to be positioned in an arc.

To mark the holes, the back should go no farther forward than the front edge of the back leg (basically straight up and down). Mark through the upper hole in the back side frame. For the lowest reclining position, the back edge of the frame should not go any farther back than the back edge of the leg. The center position will be located somewhere in between the forward and back position. Drill the holes using a ¾” paddle bit or hole saw.

Cut the remaining ¾” dowel rod. Apply a coat of paste wax on the rod then thread through the hole in one back leg, through the upper holes in the back frame, and have it come out the hole in the opposite back leg. Glue a cap on ONE end of the rod so that it doesn’t slip or get pulled out – the other end will need to remain free for reclining adjustment.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post may contain affiliate links

Mar
17
2014
Project Details

A great way to store those toys both little and big! You can stack these units up by two or three and add that much more storage to your space. When in doubt always go vertical! You can view our other plans for stylish storage options and plans for coordinating children's furniture too! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – ¼” x 2” lathe strip at 4’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • Scrap of 2x2 at least 16” long
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • ¾” x 1-1/2” trim at 8’ for lower portion (the trim can be made by routing a decorative edge on a 1x2)
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 18-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/8” x 35-1/2” - Bottom
  • 1 – 2x2 at 15-1/4” – Lower Support
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/4” x 35-1/2” - Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 35-1/2” – Lower Front Support
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/4” x 17-1/4” – Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 35-1/2” – Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 38-1/2” - Top
  • 1 – ¼” x 2” lathe strip at 37” – Upper Trim
  • 2 – ¾” x 1-1/2” trim for sides (measure and cut to fit)
  • 1 – ¾” x 1-1/2” trim for front (measure and cut to fit)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut the piece as a square first, then draw out the angles and cut them using a jigsaw or bandsaw.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom and cut a 26° bevel in the front edge. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the lower portion of the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the 2x2 piece for the support. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom into the support.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the bottom as well as the sides. Secure to the bottom and sides of the bin using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the 1x2 piece for the lower front support. Secure to the bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the divider. Using the same method as the sides, cut the piece as a square first, then cut the angles. Drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges. Secure to the bottom and back of the bin using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the front and cut a 26° bevel in the bottom edge. Secure the piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the front and through the front into the divider.

Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front will overhang by ¾” and the back will remain flush. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9

Cut the lathe strip for the upper trim. Secure to the sides and the divider using glue and 1” brad nails.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the lower trim. No measurements are given because it will depend if the pieces will have a square cut at the ends or a miter cut. Measure and cut the sides to fit first, then measure and cut the front. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
12
2014
Project Details

I have been wanting a bar cart for a long time, haven't you? If I can't have my vintage dream, which it seems I can't, a handbuilt beauty is perhaps an even better option since I get the satisfaction of making it! The cart can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal if you wish, and it would be so dreamy in brass, don't you think? Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 8 – ¾” square dowels at 3’ (or pieces ripped from a 1x board)
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’ (or 2 – 2x4 ripped in half)
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 27-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 30-1/2” – Legs
  • 1 – 2x2 at 23” - Handle
  • 4 – 2x2 at 20” – Leg Frames
  • 2 – 2x2 at 34-1/2” - Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 34-1/2” – Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” square dowels at 20” - Rails
  • 2 – ¾” square dowels at 34-1/2” - Rails
  • 28 – ¾” square dowels at 5” - Spindles
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well the top edge of the longer legs. Do not drill pocket holes in the handle piece. Attach the frame pieces to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the handle to the longer legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the end frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each piece. Secure to the stretchers and frame pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers and frame pieces.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the rails. Drill one pocket hole in each end of the longer pieces. Mark the position for the spindles on the longer pieces, then secure the spindles using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Mark the position for the spindles on the stretchers and frame pieces. Secure the rail assemblies to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Align the spindles with the marks on the stretchers and frame pieces, then secure them using toenailed 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5

Attach the casters to the bottom of the legs according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial on installing casters, click here.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

//Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. //Post contains affiliate links

Feb
24
2014
Project Details

Such a handsome girl isn't she! Nice and substantial, a relatively easy build as far as media cabinets and sideboards go. The legs can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal so you don't have to learn how to weld to make this beauty! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
  • Scrap of 2x2 at 2’
  • 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 22-3/4” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 69-1/2” - Bottom
  • 5 – 2x2 at 4” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 14-3/4” - Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 22” - Dividers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 22-5/8” - End Stretchers
  • 4 – 1x2 at 22-3/4” – Center Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 22-5/8” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-3/4” x 69-1/2” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 71” - Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 22-5/8” x 23-11/16” - Doors
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20-1/4” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 8 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 8 – 1x4 at 21-3/4” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/8” x 23-3/8” – Center Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 23-3/8” – Top & Bottom Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom. Secure the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front edges of the sides and bottom will be flush. The bottom will be ¾” shorter than the sides. This will allow for the back.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 pieces then secure them to the 2x2 legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the leg assemblies to the bottom sides using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws into the top of the 2x2 legs. The leg assemblies will overlap the sides and bottom by ¾” at each end. This will allow for the back and the doors.

Position the remaining 2x2 leg at the center of the bottom. Secure using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges. Treat the pieces as a left and right so that the pocket holes will be hidden in the drawer bank. Position the pieces as indicated in the drawing then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as the back edge. Secure to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front edge of the shelf will be flush with the front edge of the sides and dividers. 

Step 6

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the shorter edges. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the shelves into the back using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the back to the bottom and dividers.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. The front will overhang by ¾”. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides, back, dividers, and stretchers.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the doors so that the sides and bottom are flush with the cabinet. The top edge will be 1/8” to allow for the door to open and close without rubbing on the top.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them flush with the front of the dividers. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 10

Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Starting with the bottom drawer front, position it so that the lower edge is flush with the bottom, and there is a 1/8” between the doors and the sides of the drawer front, then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Continue installing the remaining fronts with a 1/8” gap between them. Install the drawer pulls. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post may contain affiliate links

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