Apr
13
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Project Details

Nothing says spring like a rocking chair on the porch. I kind of have a thing with chairs that rock... or bounce. I guess I never grew out of that stage from my years as a baby? Who knows, but there is definitely something so soothing about sitting in a rocking chair, listening to the evening sounds. It is even better in the morning, but somehow school routines and young children seem to keep this from happening during the week. A gal can dream though...

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are perfect for beginners, others... not so much). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$50-$100
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 8’ (or use 3/4” plywood, ripped down to 5-1/2” wide) 
Materials
Cut List
  • 1 – 1x2 at 16” – Backrest Top Frame                  
  • 2 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Backrest Side Frames
  • 2 – 1x3 at 2-1/2” – Armrest Supports                  
  • 2 – 1x3 at 21” – Backrest Sides               
  • 5 – 1x4 at 19” – Backrest Slats                            
  • 2 – 1x3 at 23” – Seat Sides                                   
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17-1/2” – Seat Front and Seat Back 
  • 5 – 1x4 at 19” – Seat Slats                                    
  • 2 – 1x3 at 22” – Armrests                                     
  • 2 – 1x3 at 12-1/4” – Side Frame Tops                 
  • 4 – 1x3 at 24-1/2” – Side Frame Sides                
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” – Side Frame Bottoms           
  • 2 – 1x6 at 35” – Rockers   
Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

/ Click on Images to Enlarge

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Backrest Top Frame and Backrest Side Frames. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Backrest Top Frame. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Armrest Supports, Backrest Sides, and Backrest Slats.

Cut the Armrest Supports as shown. 

Chamfer the top back corner of the Backrest Sides at a 45-degree angle, if desired. You can also “round out” the bottoms of the Backrest Sides as shown. Attach the Backrest Sides to the Backrest Side Frame pieces as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. Attach the Armrest Supports to the Backrest Sides as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws.

Attach the Backrest Slats to the Backrest Top Frame and Backrest Sides as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. 

 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Seat Sides, Seat Front, and Seat Back. Chamfer the bottom front corner of the Seat Sides at a 45-degree angle, if desired. 

With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Seat Front and Seat Back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Cut the pieces for the Seat Slats. Attach the Seat Slats to the Seat Front, Seat Sides, and Seat Back as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Armrests, Side Frame Tops, Side Frame Sides, and Side Frame Bottoms. You can “round out” the outer corners of the Side Frame Sides as noted to allow for better chair movement. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Side Frame Tops and Side Frame Bottoms. Next, drill pocket holes in the top end of the Side Frame Sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat this step for the other side.   

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Rockers. Draw out the shape as shown and cut out with your jigsaw. Make sure you draw a gentle curve. For this project, we used a radius of 62-1/2” for the Rocker curves. If desired, “round out” the end corners of the Rockers with your jigsaw or sander. 

Clamp the Rockers to the Side Frame Sides as shown. Using a 1/4” spade bit, drill holes through both of the clamped pieces. Attach the Rockers to the Side Frames Sides as shown with glue and 1/4” bolts and nuts. Once assembled, you can see what part of the Side Frame Sides extend past the Rockers.  Use your jigsaw or sander to remove this excess wood. Repeat this process with the other side. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 6

Lay one of the Side Frame assemblies on the ground or table, with the pocket holes facing up. Lay the Seat assembly on the Side Frame assembly as shown and secure with clamps. Using a 1/4” spade bit, drill holes through both of the clamped pieces. Attach the Side Frame Sides to the Seat Side as shown with glue and 1/4” bolts and nuts. Repeat this process with the second Side Frame assembly. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Rocking Chair
Step 7

Set the Rocking Chair upright. Using clamps, position the Backrest assembly to the Side Frame assemblies as shown. The bottom corner of the Armrest should be flush with the back edge of the Backrest Side and should be set directly on the Armrest Support. Use your 1/4” spade bit to drill through both the clamped pieces where noted. Attach the Side Frame Sides to the Backrest Side as shown with glue and 1/4” bolts and nuts. Repeat this process with the other side.

Just sit back, relax, and rock your worries away! 

Just sit back, relax, and rock your worries away!
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Mar
24
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Project Details

Awkward space? No problem. Small Space and need multi-functional furniture? No problem. Check out a few of the many configurations this console is capable of below!

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$25-$75
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’ 
Materials
Cut List
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 7-3/4”x18” – Left Side
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 7-3/4”x18” – Middle
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x16-1/4” – Right Side
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x40-1/4” – Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x39-1/2” – Center Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x30-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 7-3/4”x18” – Top Side
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x41” – Extension Top
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 17-3/4”x18” – Extension Side
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 8-1/4”x9-1/4” – Extension Spacer
Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Left Side, Middle, Right Side, and Bottom. Apply edge banding to exposed areas if desired. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the top and bottom of the Left Side, Middle, and Right Side. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Step 2

Cut the piece for the Center Shelf. Apply edge banding to exposed areas if desired. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the right side of the Center Shelf. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Top and Top Side. Apply edge banding to exposed areas if desired. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Top Side. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Extension Top and Extension Side. Apply edge banding to exposed areas if desired. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in top of the Extension Side. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Step 5

Cut the piece for the Extension Spacer. Apply edge banding to exposed areas if desired. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in top and left side of the Extension Spacer. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Step 6

Now it’s time to put the Extension and the Console together! Simply slide the two pieces together – the Extension will fit right over the Console. The Extension Spacer should have 1/4” gap on the right and bottom of it to allow for “wiggle room” in the Console.  The Extension Spacer will also give the Extension more support, helping it to stay “square.”

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Step 7

Depending on personal preference; you can install small casters, metal guides, etc. on bottom of the Shapeshifter Console. Install as shown per the manufacturer’s instructions. Two Feet will be installed on the Extension, and the other four Feet will be installed on the Console. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Shapeshifter Console Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Mar
13
2015
Project Details

This cute thing is a handsome fella, don't you think? I love a nightstand with some interest and the spacing between the trunk and the legs is just the thing, I think, to give this guy something extra in the looks department!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$25-$75
Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’ (will have some left over)
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’ (will have some left over)
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’ (will have some left over)
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 4’x4’ 
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 12” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 17” – Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17-1/2” – Center Supports
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 19”x19-1/2” – Cabinet Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 4”x20” – Cabinet Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 3-1/2”x19” – Cabinet Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 20”x20” – Cabinet Top
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 17-1/2”x18-3/4” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 2-1/2”x17-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 3”x18-3/4” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 3-7/8”x18-3/4” – Drawer Front
Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Have fun and be sure to take pictures along the way, then you can share them with us to gawk over in a showcase post or via social media using the hashtag #builtTDCtuff - just be sure to tag me @thedesignconfidential or @thedesconf so I am sure to see your hard work! Yahoo

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Legs as shown. 

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Aprons. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Apron. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Center Supports. Mark out the curves as shown and cut out with your jigsaw. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of each Center Support. 

Step 4

Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Just a quick note – paint/stain these supports a different color than the other pieces of the nightstand for a great pop of color. If these pieces are painted a darker color, the top portion of the Nightstand will seem like it’s floating!

Step 5

Cut the piece for the Cabinet Bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each side of the Cabinet Bottom. Attach to the Center Supports as shown with glue and 1” brad nails or wood screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Sides and Cabinet Back. With the Kreg jig set for 1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Cabinet Back. Apply edge banding if desired to the front of the Cabinet Sides. Attach the Cabinet Sides to the Cabinet Bottom as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Step 7

Attach the Cabinet Back to the Cabinet Sides as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Step 8

Cut the piece for the Cabinet Top. Apply edge banding to all edges if desired. Attach the Cabinet Top to the Cabinet Sides and Cabinet Back as shown with glue and 1” brad nails or wood screws.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for your Drawer Sides, Drawer Bottom, Drawer Back, and Drawer Front. Apply edge banding to all edges of the Drawer Front if desired. These pieces can be secured using 1” brad nails and glue or 1” wood screws with a countersink bit to predrill and glue. Note that the Drawer Front will overhang the Drawer Box on the bottom by 1/2” and on the top by 3/8”.

Step 10

Slide the fully assembled Drawer into the Cabinet as shown. After sanding, staining, and sealing, you may want to apply a coat of paste wax to the bottoms of the Drawer to help it slide smoothly. Add drawer hardware such as a pull or knob if desired. All you have left to do is dress this cutie up with a beautiful lamp, fresh flowers, and a good book!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Mar
10
2015
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Cameron Corner Entertainment Book Shelf

My son just got a TV for the playroom last year for Christmas. He is 7 yrs old. He loves using netflix and playing his Wii U games. I had everything sitting on plastic totes.

I wanted something better and never could find the right stand to go in there. I needed something to last, but looked nice being in the room. 

I cut out some mouse holes (What they look like to me) for the cables to go through. I decided not to paint the back panels becuase I liked the two tone look it gave.

You can't see them that well in the picture, but I drilled holes in the back panel. They are right under each shelf. I did that to help vent some the of the hot air that either gaming system puts out when running for a such a longer period of time. You dont even see them when your looking at the front of it.

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Cameron Corner Entertainment Book Shelf
Estimated Cost 

$100-$120

Length of Time 

3 weeks 

Modifications 

I had to switch to the 1-1/4 pocket hole screws when attaching the legs to the side panels. The 2" screws were splitting my 2x2 legs. 

Lumber Used 

3/4 & 1/4 Oak Plywood

3 2x2 8' 

3 1x2 8' Spruce-Pine-Fir Furring Strip 

Finishing Technique 

Cabot 1-Quart Smoke Paprika Oil Modified Wood Stain (Satin)

 

 

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Cameron Corner Entertainment Book Shelf
Feb
23
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Project Details

I adore this beauty and I think it would make a fabulous nightstand... even though it isn't a nightstand. I suppose I have a history of making unlikely pieces into nightstands and I can see a future for this baby in the empty space along the wall where my bed lives. Of course I can see this beauty in about a dozen other ideal spots in my home, so maybe they will have to fight it out...

To browse 1000's of other free DIY furniture + project plans, visit our Plan Index

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$100-$150
Dimensions
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Tools
Lumber
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 3 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x2 at 60” – Frame Side Fronts
  • 2 – 1x2 at 59” – Frame Side Backs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 7-1/4” – Frame Side Tops
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12-1/4” – Frame Side Middles
  • 2 – 1x2 at 14-3/4” – Frame Side Bottoms
  • 2 – 1x4 at 50-1/2” – Frame Bottom Front and Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 50-1/2” - Frame Top Back
  • 2 - 3/4” plywood at 18”x50-1/2” – Bottom Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 2 - 3/4” plywood at 10-3/4”x18” – Bottom Cabinet Sides
  • 1 - 3/4” plywood at 10-3/4”x49” – Bottom Cabinet Back
  • 1 - 3/4” plywood at 10-3/4”x17-1/4” – Bottom Cabinet Vertical Divider
  • 1 – 1x2 at 20” – Bottom Cabinet Horizontal Divider
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 9”x15”– Large Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 15”x25-3/4”– Large Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 9”x27-1/4”– Large Drawer Back
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 10-1/2”x28”– Large Drawer Front
  • 4 – 3/4” plywood at 3-3/4”x15”– Small Drawer Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 15”x17-1/2”– Small Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 3-3/4”x19”– Small Drawer Backs
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 4-3/4”x19-3/4”– Small Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x19-3/4”– Small Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x50-1/2”– Top Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x18-1/4”– Top Cabinet Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18-1/4”x49”– Top Cabinet Back
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 17-1/4”x18-1/4”– Top Cabinet Vertical Divider
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/4”x28-1/4”– Top Cabinet Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x19-3/4”– Left Cabinet Door
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x28”– Right Cabinet Desk/Door
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Frame Side Fronts, Side Backs, Side Tops, Side Middles, and Side Bottoms. Cut decorative curves in the Side Tops, Side Middles, and Side Bottoms as shown. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Side Tops, Side Middles, and Side Bottoms. Just a reminder to drill pocket holes after cutting the 8 degree angles in the pieces.

Frame Sides Detail for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Frame Side Top for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Frame Side Middle for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Frame Side Bottom for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 2

Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat twice, once for each side. If desired, have the pocket holes face the inside of the Desk.

Frame Sides Positioned for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Top Back, Bottom Front, and Bottom Back. Cut a decorative curve in the Bottom Front and Bottom Back as shown. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Top Back, Bottom Front, and Bottom Back.

Frame Front Back Detail for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 4

Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Frame Front Back for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 5

Next, cut the pieces for the Bottom Cabinet Top, Sides, and Bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the top and bottom of the Sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Bottom Cabinet Top Bottom Sides for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 6

Cut the piece for the Bottom Cabinet Back. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each side of the Back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Face the pocket screws toward the inside of the Cabinet if desired.

Bottom Cabinet Back for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 7

Cut the piece for the Bottom Cabinet Horizontal Divider and the Bottom Cabinet Vertical Divider. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the Horizontal Divider and the top, bottom, and back of the Vertical Divider.  Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Bottom Cabinet Vertical Divider for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Bottom Cabinet Horizontal Divider for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the Large Drawer Sides and Bottoms. Drill pocket holes in the front and back of the Sides and in all sides of the Bottoms. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Large Drawer Bottom Sides for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Large Drawer Backs. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Large Drawer Back for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the Large Drawer Fronts. The top of the Large Drawer Front will extend 1” above the drawer box top, 3/8” beyond the drawer box sides, and 1/2” beyond the drawer box bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Install the ball-bearing slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. Once installed, there should be a 1/8” gap on each side of the Drawer Front.

Large Drawer Front for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Small Drawer Sides and Bottoms. Drill pocket holes in the front and back of the Sides and in all sides of the Bottoms. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat twice - once for each Small Drawer.

Small Drawers Bottom Sides for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Small Drawer Backs. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat twice - once for each Small Drawer.

Small Drawer Back for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 13

Cut the pieces for the Small Drawer Fronts. The top of the Small Drawer Front will extend 1” above the drawer box top, 3/8” beyond the drawer box sides, and 1/2” beyond the drawer box bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat twice - once for each Small Drawer.

Install the ball-bearing slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. Once installed, there should be a 1/8” gap on each side of the Drawer Front.

Small Drawer Front for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 14

Next, cut the pieces for the Top Cabinet Top, Sides, and Bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the top and bottom of the Sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws

Top Cabinet Top Bottom Sides for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 15

Cut the piece for the Top Cabinet Back. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in each side of the Back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Face the pocket screws toward the inside of the Cabinet if desired.

Top Cabinet Back for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 16

Cut the piece for the Top Cabinet Vertical Divider. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the top and bottom of the Divider. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Top Cabinet Divider for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary
Step 17
Step 17 Image 
Top Cabinet Doors for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary

Cut the piece for the Top Cabinet Shelf. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in the each side and back of the Shelf. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 18
Cabinet Positions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Mid Century Secretary

Lay the assembled Frame on its back so that assembly is easier (temporarily remove Drawers and Cabinet Doors to reduce weight). Insert the assembled Top Cabinet and assembled Bottom Cabinet as shown. Attach the Cabinets to the Frame with glue and 1-1/2” wood screws.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Feb
15
2015
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Project Details

The versatility of this adorable rolling cart table is just lovely! Use it as a bar cart, or rolling utility cart, even a side table and this gal will look fabulous no matter how you choose to put her to work. 

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$50-$75
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1-1/2” Wooden Dowel at 8’
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 2’x4’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 12-1/2” x18-1/2” – Upper and Lower Trays
  • 4 – 1x2 at 20” – Upper and Lower Tray Fronts and Backs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 14” – Upper and Lower Tray Sides
  • 4 – 1-1/2” Wooden Dowel at 4-1/4” – Bottom Posts
  • 4 – 1-1/2” Wooden Dowel at 14-1/4” – Middle Posts
  • 4 – 1-1/2” Wooden Dowel at 3-1/4” – Top Posts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Upper and Lower Trays. Mark the locations of the Posts as shown (on the top side and bottom side of each Tray). With a 1-1/2” Spade Bit, drill a hole at each location approximately 1/4” inch deep. You can wiggle the Spade Bit from side to side a little as you drill, so that the hole will be slightly larger than the 1-1/2” Post. Repeat this step twice - once for the Upper Tray and once for the Lower Tray.

Upper and Lower Trays:

Trays for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Upper and Lower Fronts, Backs, and Sides. Attach the Upper Front, Back, and Sides to the Upper Tray as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Repeat this process for the Lower Tray.  If you want a more rounded appearance for the corners of your trays, get out your sander and sand away!

Shown: Tray Top then Tray Bottom

Trays Top View for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Trays Top View for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Posts. Each Post will be composed of 3 pieces, but assembled in the Cart, will give the illusion of one long piece. For the Bottom Post, mark the center of the Post.  Using an appropriately sized Spade Bit, drill a hole slightly larger (we are using a 3/8” Spade Bit for our specific Caster) and longer (approximately 1” deep for our specific Caster) than the stem of the Caster you are using. You can wiggle the Spade Bit from side to side a little as you drill, so that the hole will be slightly larger and longer than the stem of the Caster.

Next, insert the stem of the Caster into the Lower Post – repeat for each Bottom Post.  The stem should fit very snug in the drilled hole. If it is a little looser than you would like, place a little glue into the drilled hole, reinsert the stem and let the glue set.

Lower Posts and Casters for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 4

Next, place a dab of glue into the holes drilled on the bottom side of the Lower Tray. Place the Bottom Posts (with inserted Casters) into the holes, ensuring that the Posts are set at 90 degrees. Each Post will be sunk 1/4” into the drilled hole.

Lower Tray Position for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 5

Place a dab of glue into the holes drilled on the top side of the Lower Tray. Place the Middle Posts into the holes, ensuring that the Posts are set at 90 degrees. Each Post will be sunk 1/4” into the drilled hole.

Middle Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 6

Place a dab of glue into the holes drilled on the bottom side of the Upper Tray. Place the Middle Posts into the holes, ensuring that the Posts are set at 90 degrees. Each Post will be sunk 1/4” into the drilled hole.

Top Tray Position for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Step 7

Place a dab of glue into the holes drilled on the top side of the Upper Tray. Place the Top Posts into the holes, ensuring that the Posts are set at 90 degrees. Each Post will be sunk 1/4” into the drilled hole. If you want a more rounded appearance for the edges of the Top Posts, get out your sander and sand away!

Top Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans How to Build a Peggy Rolling Cart Table
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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