Feb
03
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this cute doored cabinet is a fabulous addition to your space, especially if you have items to store and display. Can't wait to see what you all do with your own variations! The doors can be made with plywood, glass or plexi depending on your preference! Yahoo. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 half sheet of ¼” plywood - or this can be glass or plexi depending on the type of cabinet you would like to build! 
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 piece of ¾” x ¾” x 8’ trim
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 35-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 29-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36” – Back Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 30-1/4” x 36” – Back Panel
  • 1 – 2x2 at 36” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 36” – Front Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 36” – Shelf & Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 41” - Top
  • Trim for top cut to fit
  • 4 – 1x2 at 29-1/4” – Door Stiles
  • 6 – 1x2 at – 14-13/16” – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1x2 at 12-3/8” – Door Frame
  • 2 – ¼” plywood or glass or plexi at 15-13/16” x 27-1/4” – Door Backing
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper as shown using a jigsaw, bandsaw, or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the pieces for the side frames and panels. Set the Kreg jig for the appropriate setting for the thicknesses of the materials, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Attach the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.  Attach the entire assembly to the legs using glue and pocket hole screws – 2-1/2” through the upper frame pieces and 1-1/4” through the lower frame pieces.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece as well as all four edges of the panel. Attach the frame pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.  Attach the entire assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end (with the pocket hole jig set for the appropriate material setting). Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the upper stretcher and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the lower stretcher.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the shelf. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom, and the sides and back of the shelf. Secure the bottom to the lower stretcher and frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the shelf as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front will overhang by 1”. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the trim. No measurements are given because it will depend on the type of trim used. Install the side pieces first, then install the front. Secure using glue and 1” brad nails. 

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the door frames and drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the backing or have glass or plexi cut to size. The pieces will overlap the opening in the frame by ½” on all sides. Secure using glue and 5/8” brad nails or mirror clips.

Step 7

Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides as well as in between. Install the cabinet pulls. 

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post contains affilliate links

Jan
29
2014
Project Image
Project Details

The vintage mid century modern style of this piece is right on trend my friends! What a great way to bring some stylish functionality into your home. Put a tv on top, or use as a buffet in your dining room. This would even be fabulous as more of a dresser or to store some of your children's toys! Whatever your storage need, this would be a great way to handle it! I hope you give this baby a whirl!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x3 at 12-1/2” – Base Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 at 30” – Base Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 46” - Bottom
  • 4 – 1x3 at 19-9/16” - Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 18” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 44-1/2” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 17-1/4” – Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 15” – Drawer Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 46” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” X 14-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x4 at 14” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 14-3/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/16” x 16-1/4” - Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Position the base as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the legs. Mark the lines for the angles as shown, and cut using the saw of your choice. Drill pocket holes in the top edge noting that there will be two right legs and two left legs. Butt the legs up against the base frame as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the corner brackets to the legs and fasten to the frame for further security.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges. Secure to the bottom on: form-data; name="field_short_title[0][value]" Arden Sideboard

Step 5

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 6

Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back edge. Position as shown, then secure to the bottom and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 8

Cut the piece for the top and secure to the sides, back, and divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides as well as in between. Install the hinges on the doors, then install the doors in the cabinet. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

/ Posts may contain affiliate links

Jan
27
2014
Project Image
Project Details

There is something so lovely about open shelving that looks at first glance as though it might actually be something else entirely, don't you think? If you need a bit of extra storage in a small area, like your bathroom, or perhaps want to display cute items rather than storing books and such, this piece is the perfect solution! I can't wait to see the variations we get with this! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • ¾” holesaw or paddle bit
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – ¾” dowel at 3’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1 sets of non-mortise hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 65” – Shorter Side Legs
  • 5 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” – Shorter Side Rungs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 75-1/4” – Taller Side Legs
  • 2 – ¾” dowels at 14-1/2” – Upper Rungs (Taller Side)
  • 5 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” – Taller Side Rungs
  • 5 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 13-1/4” – Tray Bottoms
  • 5 – 1x3 at 12” – Tray Back
  • 10 – 1x3 at 14” – Tray Sides
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the shorter side legs. Draw the arc at the top edge of each leg using a compass or a soup can, then cut out using a jigsaw or bandsaw.

Cut the pieces for the shorter side rungs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the taller side legs. Cut a 10 degree angle in the bottom of each leg, and cut the arc using a jigsaw or bandsaw to match the shorter side legs.

Use a ¾” holesaw or paddle bit to cut a ½” deep hole in two places at the top of each leg noting that there will be a right leg and a left leg. Cut two pieces of the dowel rod at 14-1/2” and glue the dowels in the holes of each leg.

Cut the pieces for the rungs. The rungs will be positioned at a 10 degree angle. Measure up 4-1/2” from the front edge of the legs as well as the back edge, and draw a line to connect the two marks. Position the first rung along this line and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Space the remaining rungs accordingly and secure them in the same manner as the first rung.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Install the hinges on each leg assembly as shown.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the trays. Attach the back piece to the back edge of the tray using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Draw the arc on the side pieces using a compass or soup can then cut using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Secure the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Position each of the trays on the rungs with the back edge flush with the back edge of the shorter side rungs. Secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
22
2014
Project Image
Project Details

A good solid nightstand is a fabulous thing, especially one that stores with drawers and won't interefere with your established style of choice. Yahoo... I think a two toned finish or a natural wood look would be right on trend with this gorgeous modern piece! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 1 set of non-mortise hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 24-3/4” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 22-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 24” – Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” - Base
  • 2 – 1x2 at 21” - Base
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/2” x 22-1/2” - Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 24” - Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 24” – Front Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 22-1/4” – Door Base
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 24” – Door Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each shorter edge of the bottom. Secure the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the sides as well as the bottom edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the base and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the piece for the shelf and drill pocket holes in the sides as well as the back edges. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the shelf 1” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the piece for the front trim. Secure to the top and sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the door. The door base will fit inside the opening while the slats will rest on the sides. The slats will overhang the door base by 7/8” on each side and 7/8” at the bottom. Position the first slat 5/8” down from the top edge of the base and secure in place with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Space the remaining slats on the base at ¾” securing them with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

The hinges can be installed on either side. Install the hinges on the slats first, then install on the cabinet side.

Step 7
Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
20
2014
Project Image
Project Details

Oh I just love an interesting dining table! Don't you? I think tables are without doubt one of the easiest builds and typically come in at a far lower cost than many other 'big' builds. They also come together pretty quickly and that instant gratification thing kicks in right of the bat! The leg frames can be painted using a metallic paint to mimic metal . It may be more economical to rip 2x4s in half to create the 2x2s with square edges, or to simply substitute for 2x3's which are generally found in the 'stud' section of your lumber supply and are usually priced accordingly (read...

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 14 – 2x2 at 8’ (or 7 – 2x4 at 8’)
  • 2 sheets of ¼” plywood
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • 3” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 8 – 2x2 at 28” – Leg Frames
  • 8 – 2x2 at 17” – Leg Frames
  • 8 – 2x2 at 7” – Leg Frames
  • 4 – 2x2 at 25” – Leg Frames
  • 2 – 2x2 at 84” – Top Frame
  • 8 – 2x2 at 37” – Top Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 13-1/2” – Top Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 7” – Top Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 10” – Top Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 11” – Top Frame
  • 2 – ¼” plywood at 25” x 40” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 34” x 40” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 40” x 84” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the leg frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 17” pieces and the 25” pieces. Assemble the frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The shorter 7” pieces will be attached using countersunk 3” screws through the legs. 

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top frame. The frame can be assembled by using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws (pocket holes are NOT shown in the drawing) or by using countersunk 3” screws. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and the joinery of your choice.

Step 2
Step 3

Position the top frame on the leg frames as shown. Secure by using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the leg frames into the top frame. Use several screws for maximum security!

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the bottom sides. Cut the notch using a jigsaw. Position on the underside of the top frame and secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the center bottom and secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top and secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
16
2014
Project Details

Oh how I love a good solid buffet, don't you? And by buffet I do not mean the kind you eat at... As a gluten free, dairy free, only thing left is rabbit food subscribing gal, they simply don't do much for me aside from the salad bar. And no, I don't happen to be g&d free by choice, womp womp. My second favorite food is cereal and I just can't have it anymore. Insert sad face here. Anyhow, I digress... I love a good sturdy hunk of wood, because I feel like they are so multipurpose, you know?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$150-$200

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 4 sheets of  ¾” plywood or MDF
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 3 sets of concealed hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 32-3/4” – Front Corners
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 32-3/4” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 75-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 75-1/2” – Bottom Front
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 2” x 16-1/4” – Bottom Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 30” x 75-1/2” - Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 22” - Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 75-1/2” – Drawer Shelf
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 25-1/4” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 23-1/2” – Center Shelf
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Upper Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 77” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 21” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/8” x 23-11/16” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/8” x 24-1/8” – Center Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 21-3/4” x 23-11/16” – Doors
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-3/4” x 24-1/8” – Center Door
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the front corners and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along one long edge of the side pieces. Secure the front corners to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the bottom and the bottom front. The bottom front piece will be secured to the bottom piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The lower edges of each piece will be flush with each other.

Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends of the bottom piece. Position the bottom piece 2” up from the bottom of the sides and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the bottom supports and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece. (Pocket holes are not shown in the drawing.) Secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back edge of the supports will be flush with the back edge of the bottom.

Step 3

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the bottom edge. Secure to the sides and bottom of the cabinets using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges, as well as the back edge. Secure to the bottom and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the piece for the drawer shelf and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Secure to the sides, back, and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as the back edge of each shelf. Position inside the cabinet as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges – note that at least one piece will have the pocket holes opposite the other pieces so there will be a right and a left. These pieces will act as the drawer slide spacers. Install the spacers first, using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws (add a few brad nails through the front corner into the spacers), then install the dividers. 

Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, sides, back, and front corners. 

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Installthe drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions . 

 

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. It may be easier to install the outer drawer fronts first, then install the center drawer front last. The bottom of the drawer fronts will be flush with the bottom of the drawer shelf

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors as well as in between them.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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