Intermediate

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pickford Cabinet, with two drawers and four cubbies with doors.

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Router with a rabbeting bit to cut a 3/8” wide by ¼” deep rabbet
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
  • Hammer
  • Wood Chisel
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 1 half sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1/2” brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • 4 sets of non-mortise hinges
  • 12 cabinet pulls
  • 2 door handles
  • Glass or acrylic cut to fit inside glass door frames
  • 4 bun feet at 3” tall plus plates for installation
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 13-3/4” x 31-1/2” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 48-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 11-1/2” x 48-1/2” – Divider
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 13-7/8” – Shelves
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 10-1/4” x 12-5/8” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 7-7/16” x 10-1/4” – Drawer Sides
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 7-7/16” x 13-5/8” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 12 – ¼” plywood at 6-3/4” x 7-7/16” – False Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 13-5/8” x 15-3/8” – Doors
  • 4 – 1x2 at 10-5/8” – Door Rails
  • 4 – 1x2 at 23-5/8” – Door Stiles
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 20-5/8” – Glass Door Divider
  • 8 – ½” plywood at 4-9/16” – Glass Door Divider
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Position the sides on the bottom so that they are ¾” in from each side, and ¾” away from the front and back edges. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position the back between the side pieces so that the outside face is flush with the back edge of the sides. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the back edge. Position as shown in the drawing then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the back edge. Position as shown in the drawing then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws with ¾” overlapping on all sides.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes and the false drawer fronts. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom, as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer as shown using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Position the false drawer fronts as shown then secure using glue and ½” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the doors. The false drawer fronts will be positioned so they overhang the top and bottom of the door by about 1/16”. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions. 

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the glass door frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the ¾” rails locating the holes so that the router bit will not interfere with the screws. Secure the rails to the stiles using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using the router and the rabbeting bit, cut a rabbet on the inside of the frame for the glass. Use a hammer and a chisel to square the corners.

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the divider pieces. Secure the dividers to the frame so that the outside face is flush with the outside face of the frame (the glass will rest on top of the dividers) using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Secure the glass using a bead of silicone caulk on the inside of the rabbet.

Install all of the cabinet pulls and handles as desired.

Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to show you how to Make and Build a Reclaimed Timber Slat Media Stand. Easy to follow and fabulous for your budget, these plans will give you specialty retailer style for pennies on the dollar!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 19 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • It may be more economical to purchase 1x8 lumber and rip it down to the width needed or rip strips of plywood

 

Materials
  • 1-1/4” screws OR
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • ½” diameter threaded rod at 3’ with 2 nuts
  • 2 threaded inserts for the threaded rod
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 15 – 1x4 at 55” – Top & Bottom Frame
  • 46 – 1x2 at 3-1/2” – Top & Door Spacers
  • 22 – 1x4 at 18-3/4” – Sides & Legs
  • 22– 1x4 at 3-1/2” – Side & Leg Spacers
  • 18 – 1x4 at 27-7/16” – Doors
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 50” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 48” – Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Notes:

It would be easiest to sand and stain each board before cutting it. The cut ends can always be touched up after cutting. The stand will be assembled by starting with the top and layering each piece. Using brad nails would be better than screws because there will be less of a chance of hitting a nail in the piece below but screws can still be used, if desired (just keep that in mind!). Drill the holes in the pieces (where indicated) before assembly, also. The pieces for the doors should be coated with paste wax before assembly, especially at the end where it layers with the sides. This will enable the doors to slide smoothly when being opened and closed. The plywood pieces will be secured using pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the top and the top spacers. Position the spacers on the first board locating them 2” in from each end. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Continue layering all of the pieces in this manner until the top is complete.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the sides and the side spacers. Drill a ½” hole in each piece at one end as shown in the drawing. The first piece on each side will have a larger hole for the threaded insert. Tap the insert in each of the two boards before layering the side pieces. The bottom two boards will have a countersunk hole large enough to accommodate the nuts. Start by positioning the first side piece at each end of the table top. Secure to each top board using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Continue layering each side board and spacer, securing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the doors and drill a ½” hole as indicated in the drawing at one end of each board. Cut the pieces for the spacers and position as shown. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws. Continue layering the boards until the doors are assembled. Slide the free ends of each door between the free ends of each side and line up the holes. Insert the threaded rod through the holes and turn it into the threaded inserts. Adjust the length of the rod if necessary, then add the nuts. Tighten with a pair of needle-nose pliers or a standard (flat) screwdriver.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the bottom boards. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each longer edge of the bottom piece. Attach the bottom boards to the sides of the plywood using lgue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the bottom assembly as shown and secure using glue and brad nails or countersunk screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the legs. Layer and secure them in the same manner as previously done.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Crate and Barrel Inspired Village Black Armless Bench. Simple lines, beautiful features, this bench has it all... Xx.. Rayan

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18” – Lower Back Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Upper Back Legs
  • 1 – 1x2 at 35-3/4” – Back Stretcher
  • 2 – 1x3 at 35-3/4” – Lower Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 39-3/4” – Upper Back
  • 11 – 1x2 at 14” – Back Slats
  • 2 – 2x2 at 17-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 16-1/2” – Upper Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17-1/2” – Seat Supports
  • 2 – 1x2 at approximately 17-3/16” – Lower Side Stretchers (Cut these pieces after the chair is assembled)
  • 1 – 1x2 at 36-3/4” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/2” x 38-3/4” - Seat
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower back legs. Cut the tapers using a jigsaw or tapering jig on a table saw. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of the lower back legs. Note there will be a right and a left leg. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back edge of the upper legs. Assemble the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and the upper back. Cut the angle in each end of the upper back noting that it is not a 45 degree angle. Drill pocket holes in each end of the back stretcher as well as the lower back stretcher. Position the 1x2 back stretcher as shown and secure to the upper back legs using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretcher will be flush with the front face of the upper legs. Position the lower stretcher ¼” back from the outside edge of the legs and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the slats and cut a 5 degree bevel in the top edge of each slat slanting toward the back. Drill pocket holes in each then secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front legs and the front stretcher. Cut the tapers in the front legs in the same manner as the back legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher then secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the upper side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the front and back legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the stretchers ¼” back from the outside edge of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers. The length and angle of the side stretchers will depend on the angle of the legs as well as the measurement between them. Clamp a 1x2 piece to the legs at the position of the lower stretcher and draw a line along the angles. Cut with the saw of your choice, then drill pocket holes in each end. Position the stretchers so they are located ¼” back from the outside face then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center lower stretcher and drill pocket holes at each end. Position it in the center of the lower side stretchers then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the seat and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Apply the edge banding, if desired. Position the seat on the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Crate and Barrel Inspired Bluestone Coffee Table! The top can be painted to look like concrete or you can brush on some concrete resurfacing material for a thin coat! How fantastic is that... Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 3x3 posts at 3’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 3” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/2” edge banding
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 3x3 at 15-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 22-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x3 at 22-1/2” Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x2 at 12-1/2”- Truss Pieces
  • 5 – 2x3 at 24-1/2” – Slats
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 27-1/2” x 27-1/2” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The front face of the stretchers will be flush with the outside face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the truss pieces. Cut the angles as shown (they are NOT cut at 45 degrees) and drill pocket holes in each angle. Position as shown and secure to the stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the other stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the slats. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure to the stretchers as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Locate them ½” down from the top of the stretcher.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the top and fasten them together using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Apply the edge banding. Position the top on the frame and secure using glue and countersunk 3” screws from the underside of the upper stretchers into the underside of the top.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Easy to follow, Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jocelyn Console Table! I love this cute little gal and with that bit of storage, she is that much more functional! Love that! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 6 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 1 scrap of 2x4 at 20”
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood
  • 2 – Cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 35-1/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x3 at 20” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 2x2 at 20” – Side Frames
  • 7 – 2x2 at 46” – Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 46” – Back Panel
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 23” x 49” – Shelves
  • 1 – 2x2 at 7” – Center Divider
  • 1 – 2x4 at 20” – Center Support
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 50” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-7/8” x 22” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 20” – Drawer Sides (inside)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 20” – Drawer Sides (outside)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 22” – Drawer Backs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side frames. Cut the notches in two of the 2x3 pieces as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the two 2x3 pieces with the notches. Drill pocket hole in these pieces as shown. Position the pieces as shown orienting the pocket hole screws so they will be hidden (and not have to be filled). Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. 

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back stretchers and the back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back panel as shown. Secure two of the stretchers to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making sure the back face of the back panel is flush with the inside faces of the stretchers. Secure the panel assembly and remaining stretchers as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Cut the notches with a jigsaw. Secure the shelves using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the center divider and drill pocket holes in the top edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the center support drill pocket holes at each end. The pocket holes for the front edge will have to be close together as the piece will be secured to the 2x2 divider. Position the piece so that it is centered on the 2x2 and secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Position the piece so that it overhangs by ½” on each side. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and stretchers.

Step 6
Step 7

The drawers are constructed differently than normal. There is a right drawer and a left drawer. The “outside” sides are taller than the “inside” sides. Construct one drawer as shown in the drawings, then reverse the sides for the other drawer.

Cut the pieces for the fronts and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Locate the bottom holes in the taller side pieces so that the back can be fastened to it. The “inside” sides will be positioned 3/8” from the top of the front, making the bottom 1-1/2” up from the bottom of the front. The “outside” sides will be positioned 3/8” from the top of the front making the bottom flush with the front. Make sure the pocket holes are facing in! Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and drill pocket holes in all four edges. The bottom face will be flush with the bottom edge of the “inside” sides, making it positioned 1-1/2” up from the bottom on the “outside” sides. Secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the back and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Rub a coat of paste wax on the bottom edges of the drawers. This will help them slide much easier!

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Cher-Ann Texter
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Velloso Coffee Table! How to make this beauty with her fabulous angles and worldly charm. I can't wait to see you give this a try and how you choose to finish it! Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x3 at 4’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 1 – half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 2” screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 19” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 12-1/8” – Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 22” – Top Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/4” x 41” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 25” x 44” – Top
  • 2 – 2x2 at 22” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 2x2 at 44” – Top Frame
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the leg frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end of the smaller pieces. Cut the angles in the 2x3 pieces as shown by marking the lines on the lumber and cutting on the line. Attach the legs to each other using countersunk 2-1/2” screws through each piece. Attach the stretcher as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretcher will be flush with the outside faces of the legs.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top supports. Center the pieces on the leg frames and secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Cut the piece for the shelf. Secure to the stretchers on the leg frames using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top and the frame. Attach the frame pieces to the underside of the top using glue and countersunk 2” screws.

Position the top on the leg frames. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the underside of the top of the leg frames into the top.

Step 3
Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Ridgely Media Console. The simple lines of this are begging for a build with a glossy finish or perhaps a more rustic and weathered finish. I feel like it could go either way and I can't wait to see which you choose. Please send images to me via email of your completed build, or post a showcase, so we can celebrate your accomplishment! yahoo... Xx... Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Router and decorative bit, optional
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 1x10 at 6’
  • 3 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at6’
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 2” edge banding for edges of top
  • 7/8” edge banding for edges of shelf and panels
  • 5 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 5 drawer handles or knobs
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 1x3 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 54-7/8” – Front Frame & Back Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 54-7/8” – Back Panel
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 17” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 54-7/8” – Shelf
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Slide Supports
  • 4 – 1x2 at 11” – Dividers
  • 4 – 1x2 at 15-1/2” – Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 71-7/8” – Top
  • 5 – ¾” plywood at 7-7/8” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 10 – 1x6 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 10 – 1x6 at 9-3/8” – Drawer Fronts & Backs
  • 2 – 1x10 (ripped to 7-3/4” wide) x 10-9/16” – Outer Drawer Fronts
  • 3 – 1x10 (ripped to 7-3/4” wide) x 11” – Inner Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs, the front frame pieces, the back panel and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frames pieces and the stretcher. Drill pocket holes at three sides of the back to attach to the legs and to attach the top.

Assemble the front and back frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Drill pocket holes along three edges to attach to the legs and to attach the top. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the shelf. Attach to the front frame and back stretcher using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Attach to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The supports will be flush with the inside edge of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes as shown, then assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the dividers to the inside of the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the top. Spread glue on the surface of one of the pieces. Position the other piece on top and wiggle it a little to create suction, then clamp until dry.

Position on the cabinet with 6” hanging over each side, and flush at the front and back. Attach using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes drilled in the top edges of the sides and back.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottoms, as well as the shorter ends of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Cut a decorative edge on the fronts, if desired. Attach the drawer fronts to the drawer boxes. For another easy tutorial, click here.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Jacqueline Bedside Table. Oh this little lady is gorgeous, isn't she? I love the delicate curves paired with her substantial form. A fabulous addition to any room! Xx...Rayan

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 2 – 3/8” thick craft boards at 2-1/2” wide x 3’
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Half sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 3/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1 – Set of 20” Drawer slides
  • 1 – Drawer pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x6 ay 19-1/2” – Sides
  • 3 – 1x2 at 31-1/2” – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x6 at 31-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – 3/8” material at 2-1/2” x 19-1/2” – Slide Fillers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 23” x 35-1/2” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-1/4” x 29” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 19-1/4” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 30-1/2” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-3/4” x 31=1/4” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 20” – Hutch Sides
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 34-1/2” – Hutch Back
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 2-1/2” x 8-1/2” – Hutch Dividers
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 8-1/2” x 34-1/2” – Hutch Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 34-1/2” – Hutch Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs, stretchers,  and sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side and stretcher pieces. Center on the legs, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back and back stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end. Center on the legs, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide fillers. Attach to the sides as shown using countersunk ¾” screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, legs, back, and stretchers.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes on all four edges of the bottom, as well as each end of the drawer sides. Attach the sides to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer back in the same manner. The drawer front will overlap the sides of the drawer box by 3/8” at each side. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the hutch sides. Cut an arc in each piece maintaining the dimensions as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the lower edge of each piece. Keep in mind there will be a right and a left piece.

Cut the piece for the hutch back and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the bottom edge. Attach using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the hutch dividers. Drill pocket holes in one edge only of each piece. Position two of the dividers and shown then secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Set the other two dividers aside.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the hutch shelf. Attach to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, as well as through the sides into the shelf.

Attach the other two dividers as shown using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, and through the sides and back into the shelf.

Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Richard Velloso Side Table! Simple and gorgeous, and of course easy on the budget! Yahoo... Xx...Rayan

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x3 at 4’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 1 – quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 2” screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 22-13/16”” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 10-3/8” – Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x3 at 20” – Top Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-5/16” x 20” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 23” x 23” – Top
  • 2 – 2x2 at 20” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 2x2 at 23” – Top Frame
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the leg frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end of the smaller pieces. Cut the angles in the 2x3 pieces as shown by marking the lines on the lumber and cutting on the line. Attach the legs to each other using countersunk 2-1/2” screws through each piece. Attach the stretcher as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretcher will be flush with the outside faces of the legs.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top supports. Center the pieces on the leg frames and secure using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Cut the piece for the shelf. Secure to the stretchers on the leg frames using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top and the frame. Attach the frame pieces to the underside of the top using glue and countersunk 2” screws.

Position the top on the leg frames. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the underside of the top of the leg frames into the top.

Step 3
Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Wisteria Inspired Reclaimed Pine Entertainment Console. Isn't this gal a stunner? Yahoo, you should totally build this like right now! Actually you really should because it's completely stylish and definitely fabulous... so go, and make some sawdust fly my friends... Xx...Rayan

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 9 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 4 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • Six sets of 14” drawer slides
  • Drawer pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x2 at 27-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 81” – Front & Back Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 26-1/2” – Front & Back Frame
  • 12 – 2x2 at 25” – Front & Back Frame
  • 3 – 3/4” plywood at 20-1/2” x 25” – Back Panel
  • 10 – 2x2 at 14-1/2” – Side Frames & Slide Supports
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14- 1/2” x 78” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 25” – Shelves
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 22-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x4 at 13-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Sides
  • 3 – 1x4 at 24” – Smaller Drawer Back
  • 3 – 1x4 at 24-3/4” – Smaller Drawer Front
  • 6 – 1x8 at 13-1/4” – Larger Drawer Sides
  • 3 – 1x8 at 24” – Larger Drawer Back
  • 6 – 1x4 (ripped to 3” wide) at 24-3/4” – Larger Drawer Front
  • 3 – 1x2 at 24-3/4” – Larger Drawer Front 
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the back frame. Cut the miters in each end of the top piece as well as the top of each leg piece. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the mitered end of the legs. Also drill pocket holes in the other pieces as shown. The inside leg pieces will have pocket holes drilled in the top only. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the back panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each panel piece. Position the each panel in the frame and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back of each panel will be flush with the back of the frame.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the inside face of the frame pieces. Attach the sides to the back legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws through the frame pieces into the legs, and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the side panels into the back legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front frame. Cut the miters in each end of the top piece as well as the top of each leg piece. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the mitered end of the legs. Also drill pocket holes in the other pieces as shown. The inside leg pieces will have pocket holes drilled in the top only. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the front frame, sides, and back frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the top will be flush with the top faces of the front, sides, and back.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the slide supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. The upper supports will be positioned so the top is flush with the top of the corresponding front frame piece. The bottom of the middle and lower supports will be flush with the top of the corresponding frame pieces. Secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the front frame, sides, and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top faces of the front frame.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the fronts of the larger drawers. The fronts will be pieced so they look like the smaller drawers. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the remaining pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8" on each side. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts in the opening. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.. Make any necessary adjustments. Install the drawer pulls.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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