Nov
26
2014
The Design Confidential Top 10 Most Popular // Playful Storage Solutions for Kids Projects 1 - 5

If you are thinking of a build that gives you quite a bit of bang for your buck, a playful storage solution is just what you need. Equal parts organization and play, these projects represent The Design Confidential's current 10 most popular playful storage solutions for kids! 

I will be adding this list to our Handmade Holiday series, so be sure to check out the other projects already part of that collection! 

The Design Confidential Top 10 Most Popular // Playful Storage Solutions for Kids Projects 6 - 10

6 // 7 // 8 // 9 // 10

Nov
24
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Project Details

Equal parts fun and function, this gorgeous bed will make bed time a bit more exciting for the kiddos! A fabulous Handmade Holiday gift that will keep on giving for years after you build this! 

The Deets
Finished Project for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$300-$400
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 22 – 1/2x4 (rip down 1/2” plywood if lumber is unavailable)
  • 4 – 1x2
  • 7 – 1x4
  • 2 – 1x8
  • 16 – 2x4
  • 3 – 1/2” plywood at 4’x8’
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’
Materials
Cut List
  • // Refer to specific steps in this plan before cutting pieces - some pieces are cut with angled ends and their exact measurements may differ from the measurements listed below. Measurements listed below are PRE-BEVEL dimensions and the actual end measurements will change once cut according to specific steps. 
  •  
  • 4 – 2x4 at 61-3/16” – Post A
  • 4 – 2x4 at 59-1/8” – Post B
  • 3 – 2x4 at 51-1/4” – Side Top Rail, Side Middle Rail, and Side Bottom Rail
  • 3 – 2x4 at 74” – Back Top Rail, Back Middle Rail, and Back Bottom Rail
  • 2 – 2x4 at 74” – Front Top Rail and Front Bottom Rail
  • 4 – 2x4 at 31-3/16” – Roof Rafters
  • 6 – 2x4 at 58-1/4” – Floor Joists
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 58-1/4” x 78” – Floor
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 78” – Back Wall
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 28-1/2” x 40” – Front Wall
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/4” x 57-1/4” –Side Bottom Walls
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 18-1/4” x 54-3/16” –Side Top Walls
  • 6 – 1x2 at 7-1/8” – Front Top Trim
  • 6 – 1x2 at 13” – Front Bottom Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 38-1/8” – Door Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 16-1/2 – Top and Bottom Window Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 15” – Side Window Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 21” – Stair Hanger
  • 2 – 1x4 at 51-1/4” – Side Ledges
  • 14 – 1x4 at 10-3/4” – Side Bottom Trim
  • 2 – 1x4 at 14-13/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 4 – 1x4 at 10-15/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 4 – 1x4 at 6-9/16” – Side Top Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 74” – Back Ledge
  • 9 – 1x4 at 10-3/4” – Back Trim
  • 1 – 1x4 at 83-1/2” – Roof Ridge
  • 6 – 1/2x4 at 83-1/2” – Purlins
  • 42 – 1/2x4 at 37-1/4” – Roof Slats
  • 2 – 1x8 at 30-1/2” – Stair Sides
  • 2 – 1x8 at 18-3/4” – Steps
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

/ Click on Images to expand. If a plan has images that are too hard to read, please let me know and I will reupload the images for easier reference.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for Posts A and Posts B as shown. 

Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material. Drill pocket holes in the long side of Post A as shown. Assemble Post A to Post B as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat this process again, but in a “mirrored” assembly as shown in the image. Built a total of two sets of these “mirrored” Post pairs.

Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Post Assembly for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Rail, Side Middle Rail, and Side Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of all pieces. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. 

Side Rails for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Back Top Rail, Back Middle Rail, and Back Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of all pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Back Rails for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Front Top Rail and Front Bottom Rail. Drill pocket holes in the ends of both pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Front Rails for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Rafters. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the pieces (avoid drilling pocket screws in the Ridge notch area). Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Rafters for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Rafters Attached for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Floor Joists. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

Floor Joists for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Step 7

Cut the piece for the floor. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Floor for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Step 8

Cut the piece for the Back Wall. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes on the bottom of the Back Wall piece. Assemble as shown with glue  - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Back Wall for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Front Wall. Drill pocket holes on the bottoms of the Front Wall pieces. Assemble as shown with glue  - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides. 

Front Wall for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the Side Bottom Walls. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill pocket holes on the bottoms of the Side Wall pieces. Assemble as shown with glue  - use 1-1/4” brad nails to secure the top and sides and 1-1/4” pocket screws to secure the bottom sides.

Side Walls for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Walls. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Top Walls for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Top Walls Attached for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Front Trim, Door Trim, Window Trim, and Stair Hanger. Assemble the Front Trim, Door Trim, and Window Trim as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Stair Hanger and attach with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. 

Front Trim for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Step 13

Cut the pieces for the Side Bottom Trim and Side Bottom Ledges. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.    

Side Bottom Trim for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Step 14

Cut the pieces for the Side Top Trim. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Side Top Trim for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Step 15

Cut the pieces for the Back Trim and Back Ledge. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Back Trim for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Step 16

Cut the piece for the Roof Ridge. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, nailed through the Rafters.

Cut the pieces for the Purlins. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The ends of the Purlins should extend 1-1/4” past the Rafters.   

Ridge for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Purlins for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Full Sized Cabin Bed
Step 17

Cut the pieces for the Roof Slats. Attach as shown with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Roof Slats should be spaced 1/2” apart from each other and extend approximately 2” past the Front and Back Rails. The first and last  Roof Slats should be flush with the Roof Ridge. 

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Kiddos 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Nov
20
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Sienna Platform Bed
Project Details

So maybe toys and play things aren't exactly what you have on the agenda this holiday season... no problem! A new bed would be the most fabulous gift, and this one is pretty fabulous any time of year. 

The Deets
Finished Project for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Sienna Platform Bed

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$200-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Sienna Platform Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 12 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 7 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 4 – 2x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List

2 – 2x4 at 10-1/4” – Footrest Legs
1 – 1x6 at 74-3/4” – Footrest Rail
2 – 2x4 at 40” – Headrest Legs
1 – 1x6 at 74-3/4” – Headrest Rail
4 – 1x6 at 74-3/4” – Headrest Slats
2 – 1x6 at 83-1/4” – Side Rails
2 – 1x2 at 79-1/4” – Cleats
3 – 2x4 at 84” – Stretchers
14 – 1x4 at 79-1/4” – Bottom Slats

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Footrest Legs. Mark the pieces as shown and cut – no need to worry about angles! Repeat this step twice.

Foot Leg Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Sienna Platform Bed
Step 2

Cut the piece for the Footrest Rail. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Footrest Rail. Align the Footrest Rail so that it is set back 1/4” from the outside edge of the Footrest Legs. Attach the Footrest Rail to the Footrest Legs as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. The holes should face the inside of the Bed.

Foot Rail for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Sienna Platform Bed
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Headrest Legs. Mark the pieces as shown and cut – no need to worry about angles! Repeat this step twice.

Head Leg for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Sienna Platform Bed
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Headrest Slats and the Headrest Rail. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Headrest Slats and Headrest Rail. Align the Headrest Slats and Headrest Rail so that they are set back 1/4” from the inside edge of the Headrest Legs. Attach the Headrest Slats and Headrest Rail to the Headrest Legs as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. The pocket holes on the Headrest Slats should face the outside of the Bed and the pocket holes on the Headrest Rail should face the inside of the Bed.

Headboard for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Sienna Platform Bed
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Side Rails. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Make sure that the Side Rails are set back 1/4” from the outside edge of the Legs. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Side Rail for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Sienna Platform Bed
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Cleats. The Cleats should sit 2” below the top edge of the Side Rails. Attach the Cleats to the Side Rails as shown with glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws leaving 2” at each end for the bed hardware. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Cleat for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Sienna Platform Bed
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Make sure that the bottom sides of the Stretchers are flush with the bottoms of the Headrest and Footrest Rails. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Stretchers for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Sienna Platform Bed
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Slats. The Slats will be spaced approximately 2-1/2” apart. Attach to the Cleats using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. DO NOT use glue! The Slats may have to be removed at some point to take the bed apart!

Slats for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Sienna Platform Bed
Step 9
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Nov
17
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Polar Bear Bookshelf
Project Details

I might be more excited about this free furniture plan for a Polar Bear Bookshelf than a gal of my particular age should be, but seriously isn't it the cutest thing you ever did see? Love. I can't wait to see how you put your personal spin on this beauty for your gorgeous and special little ones this holiday season! Yahoo.

Check out the other fabulous plans in our Handmade Holiday series. I will be adding to them throughout the next few weeks and adding the previous plans that we have covered in the last few seasons as well as a whole slew of new plans you can choose from! Yippe! Xx... Rayan

The Deets
Finished Project for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Polar Bear Bookshelf

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$125-$175
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Polar Bear Bookshelf
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1/4” plywood at – 4’x8’
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at – 4’x8'
Materials
Cut List

// Refer to specific steps in this plan before cutting pieces - some pieces are cut with angled ends and their exact measurements may differ from the measurements listed below. Measurements listed below are PRE-BEVEL dimensions and the actual end measurements will change once cut according to specific steps. 

  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x18-1/2” – Center Top
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x18” – Center Middle
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x19” – Center Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x27-3/16” – Center Side A
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x24” – Center Side B
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x18” – Chest Top
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x12” – Chest Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x16-3/4” – Chest Side A
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x21-1/4” – Chest Side B  
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x12” – Chest Angle
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x9-3/4” – Head Top
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x10-15/16” – Head Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x3” – Eye
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x6” – Nose Top
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x3-1/2” – Nose Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x14-1/16” – Front Leg Frontside
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x16” – Front Leg Backside
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x3” – Front Leg Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x11” – Rear Top  
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x22” – Rear Middle
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x17” – Rear Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x19-1/2” – Rear Angle A
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x16” – Rear Angle B
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x15” – Tail Vertical Piece A
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x4-1/2” – Tail Vertical Piece B
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x3” – Tail Angle Piece
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x9-1/2” – Back Leg Frontside
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x12” – Back Leg Backside
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 14-3/4”x3” – Back Leg Bottom
  • 1/4” plywood, cut to fit – Bear Bookcase Back

*Refer to plan before cutting pieces - some pieces are cut with angled ends and their exact measurements may differ from the measurements listed above.

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Center Top, Center Middle, Center Bottom, and Center Side A and B. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the both ends of the Center Top and Center Middle. Drill pocket holes in the bottom ends of the Center Side A and Center Side B. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Step 1 for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Polar Bear Bookshelf
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Chest Top, Chest Bottom, Chest Side A, Chest Side B, and Chest Angle. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Chest Bottom, Chest Side B and Chest Angle. Drill pocket holes in the right side of the Chest Top and the top end of Chest Side A. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Step 2 for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Polar Bear Bookshelf
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Head Top, Head Bottom, Eye, Nose Top and Nose Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Head Top and the Nose Top pieces. Drill pocket holes in the bottom end of the Nose Bottom and the right side of the Head Bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Step 3 for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Polar Bear Bookshelf
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Front Leg Frontside, Front Leg Backside, and Front Leg Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Front Leg Backside. Drill pocket holes in the bottom end of the Front Leg Frontside. Assemble as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Step 4 for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Polar Bear Bookshelf
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Rear Top, Rear Middle, Rear Bottom, Rear Angle A, and Rear Angle B. Drill pocket holes in both ends of the Rear Angle A, Rear Angle B, and Rear Middle. Drill a pocket hole in the right end of the Rear Top and the right end of the Rear Bottom piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Step 5 for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Polar Bear Bookshelf
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Tail Vertical Piece A, Tail Vertical Piece B, Tail Angle Piece, Back Leg Frontside, Back Leg Backside, and Back Leg Bottom. Drill pocket holes in both ends of the Tail Vertical Piece A, Tail Angle Piece, and Back Leg Backside. Drill pocket holes in the bottom end of the Back Leg Frontside. Assemble as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Step 6 for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Polar Bear Bookshelf
Step 7

Lay the fully assembled piece on the floor on top of the 1/4” plywood. Trace around the assembled piece. Cut the traced shape out with a jigsaw. Attach the 1/4” plywood Back to the assembled piece with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7 for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Polar Bear Bookshelf
Step 8
Step 9
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Kiddos 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Nov
12
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Project Details

We have such a fun lineup this year for our ongoing yearly Handmade Holiday series! Today is all about the little builders and as folks who love to make the sawdust fly, I figure this workbench toy is nothing short of building a legacy for our kids to learn from. I know my boys love to build and then of course tear down, so my gorgeous little baby bird who is now two, would be in heaven with this one. His big brother would probably adore this as well, some things never get old and banging on things with hammers is one of those things! 

The Deets
Finished Project for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$15-$20
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – Quarter Sheet of 1/2” plywood at – 2’x2’ 
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 1x2 at 18” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 9-1/4” – Top and Bottom Side Rails
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19” – Top Shelf Supports
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19” – Bottom Front and Back Rails
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 9-1/4”x19” – Bottom Shelf
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 10-3/4”x19” – Top Shelf
  • 1 – 1x2 at 10-3/4” – Tool Holder
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Legs and the Top and Bottom Side Rails. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top and Bottom Side Rails. Make sure the pocket holes face the inside of the Workbench. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Repeat this step twice, once for each end of the Workbench.

Constructing the Sides for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Top Shelf Supports and Bottom Front and Back Rails. Drill pocket holes in the ends of these 4 pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. The holes should face the inside of the Workbench. The Top Shelf Supports and the Bottom Front and Back Rails should line up with the inside edge of the Legs.

Attach the Shelf Supports for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Step 3

Cut the piece for the Bottom Shelf. Set the Kreg Jig for 1/2” and drill pocket holes in all sides of the Shelf. Align the bottom of the Shelf with the bottom of the Bottom Front and Back Rails and Bottom Side Rails, making sure that the pocket holes face the ground. Assemble as shown with glue and 1” pocket screws.

Attach the Bottom Shelf for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Step 4

Cut the Top piece. Secure to the Top Shelf Supports with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

Fasten the Top in Place for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Step 5

Drill a series of 3/4” holes as shown. These can be used for hammering dowels (i.e. nails) into the workbench! 

Drill Holes in the Top for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Step 6

Install knobs on one end of the Workbench. We installed one at the top of each Leg, but have fun with it! You can use knobs, hooks, or clips in varying colors and sizes.

Attach the Knobs for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Step 7

Cut the piece for the Tool Holder. Drill a series of 1/2” holes as shown. To create the cutout, first drill your 1/2” holes and then use your jigsaw to cut the rest of the shape. 

Pattern for the Tool Holder for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Step 8

Install the Tool Holder as shown with small L brackets. 

Attach the Tool Holder for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Children's Play Workbench
Step 9
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Kiddos 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under our terms of service. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Nov
06
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Project Details

The Holidays are quickly approaching and making something special for your little ones is a fabulous way to celebrate! A playhouse that you are excited to add to your home is perfect for all of you style conscious parents out there! I will be posting plans as part of our ongoing Handmade Holiday series, between now and then, and of course we have many plans from the previous years for you to choose from as well. I will be retagging all of our plans that didn't get updated in the move, so check back often to see which project you might like to tackle for your children this year!

The Deets
Finished Project for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$200-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 11 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at – 4’x8’
  • 1 – 1/4” plywood at – 2’x2’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 54” – Front Side Posts
  • 4 – 2x2 at 41-3/4” – Front Side Roof Support, Front Side Top Plate, Front Side Center Rail, and Front Side Bottom Plate
  • 2 – 2x2 at 46-1/4” – Back Side Posts
  • 4 – 2x2 at 41-3/4” - Back Side Roof Support, Back Side Top Plate, Back Side Center Rail, and Back Side Bottom Plate
  • 3 – 2x2 at 41-3/4” - Right Side Top Plate, Right Side Center Rail, and Right Side Bottom Plate
  • 1 – 2x2 at 41-3/4” – Left Side Top Plate
  • 2 – 2x2 at 20” – Left Side Center Rail and Left Side Bottom Plate
  • 1 – 2x2 at 40-1/2” – Left Side Door Frame
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18-3/4” – Back Side Center Posts
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18-3/4” – Right Side Center Posts
  • 1 – 2x2 at 18-3/4” – Front Center Post
  • 2 – 2x2 at 48” – Side Roof Supports
  • 2 – 2x2 at 19-3/4” –Door Frame Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Door Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-1/2”x16-3/4” – Door Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Left Side Mail Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Left Side Bottom Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Back Side Top Left Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Back Side Bottom Left Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20-1/4” – Back Side Top Right Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 41-3/4”x2-1/2” – Back Side Top Roof Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20-1/4” – Right Side Bottom Left Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Right Side Bottom Right Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 41-3/4”x10-1/4” – Front Top Roof Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20-1/4” – Front Bottom Left Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Front Bottom Right Panel
  • 1 – 1/4” plywood at 18-1/2”x20” – Front Sliding Panel
  • 4 – 1x2 at 41-3/4”– Sliding Panel Guides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 51-1/2”x50-3/4” – Top (use scraps from the 4x8 plywood sheets to create the top) OR get creative and use corrugated panels, strung twinkle lights, etc!
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Front Side Posts, Front Side Roof Support, Front Side Top Plate, Front Side Center Rail, and Front Side Bottom Plate. Cut the Top of the Front Side Posts as shown in the blowup detail – measure 1/4” down on the backside of the pieces and mark it. Cut the angle as shown.  Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Roof Support, Top Plate, Center Rail, and Bottom Plate. Make sure the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Additionally, make sure that the Roof Support does not extend above the cut angle of the Front Side Posts when assembled.

 

Front Framing for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Back Side Posts, Back Side Roof Support, Back Side Top Plate, Back Side Center Rail, and Back Side Bottom Plate. Cut the Top of the Back Side Posts as shown in the blowup detail – measure 1/4” down on the backside of the piece and mark it. Cut the angle as shown.  Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Roof Support, Top Plate, Center Rail, and Bottom Plate. Make sure the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Additionally, make sure that the Roof Support does not extend above the cut angle of the Back Side Posts.

Back Framing for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 3

Cut the piece for the Right Side Top Plate, Right Side Center Rail, and Right Side Bottom Plate. Drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Attach as shown to both the Front Side and the Back Side with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse.

Right Framing for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Left Side Top Plate, Left Side Center Rail, Left Side Bottom Plate, and Left Side Door Frame. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top Plate, Center Rail, and Bottom Plate. Attach as shown to both the Front Frame and the Back Frame with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse.

Left Framing for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Back Side Center Posts. Drill pocket holes in the ends of these pieces and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Back Center Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Right Side Center Posts. Drill pocket holes in the ends of these pieces and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Right Center Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Front Center Post. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Post and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Front Center Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 8

Cut the rough pieces for the Side Roof Supports, approximately 48” in length. Clamp the pieces to the Front and Back Posts so that the Supports follow the angle of the Posts and overhang on each end. Draw a line along the interior side of the Posts with your pencil – this will be the angle that you will need to cut. After cutting the marked angles, drill pocket holes in the ends of these pieces and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse.

Top Slant Piece Detail for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Top Slant Pieces for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Top and Bottom Door Frame, Side Door Frames, and Door Panel. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Side Door Frames and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in all sides of the Door Panel. Again, make sure the pocket holes face the inside of the Playhouse. Center the Door Panel within the Door Frame that was just assembled and attach with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Door Panel should be set back 1/2” from the front and the back of the Door Frame. Attach the hinges to the Door Frame and Post as shown so that there is a constant 1/4” gap on all sides of the door. Attach a knob if desired.

Side Door for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the Left Side Mail Panel and Left Side Bottom Panel.  Drill pilot holes in each corner of the mail slot. Then, cut out the mail slot as shown with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes on all the sides of each Panel (the Kreg jig should still be set for 1/2” material). Attach as shown with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Panels should be centered in their surrounding 2x2 “frames.” Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Side Boxes for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Back Side Top Roof Panel, Back Side Top Left Panel, Back Side Top Right Panel, and Back Side Bottom Left Panel. Drill pocket holes on all the sides of the Panels (the Kreg jig should still be set for 1/2” material). If desired, paint the Top Right and Bottom Left Panels with chalkboard paint. Attach as shown with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Panels should be centered in their surrounding 2x2 “frames.” Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Back Side Boxes for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Right Side Bottom Left Panel and Right Side Bottom Right Panel.  Drill pocket holes on all the sides of the Panels (the Kreg jig should still be set for 1/2” material). Attach as shown with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Panels should be centered in their surrounding 2x2 “frames.” Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Step 13

Cut the pieces for the Front Top Roof Panel and Front Bottom Left and Right Panels. Drill pocket holes on all the sides of the Panels (the Kreg jig should still be set for 1/2” material). If desired, paint the Top Roof Panel with chalkboard paint. Attach as shown with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Panels should be centered in their surrounding 2x2 “frames.” Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Front Boxes for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 14
  • Cut the piece for the Front Sliding Panel. Drill 1” holes as shown on each side of the Panel. If desired, paint the Sliding Panel with chalkboard paint.
  • Cut the pieces for the Sliding Panels Guides. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each ends of the guides. Place the Sliding Panel between the front and back guides on both the top and bottom. Install as shown with glue and 1-1/2” pocket screws. The pocket holes on the guides should face the inside of the Playhouse.
  • There should be a 1/2” space between the guides when installed. 

 

Sliding Board for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Sliding Rails for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Sliding Rail Detail for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 15

Cut the pieces for the Top. There will be approximately a 3” overhang on all sides. Attach to the Playhouse Frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Top for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Kiddos 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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