Sep
25
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection CPU Cabinet! The components from the Original Office Collection can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. Isn't that fancy? Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

 

  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber

 

  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials

 

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 1 set of 18” drawer slides
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 16-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 20” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 19-1/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 20-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” - Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-5/8” x 18” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-9/16” x 18” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-9/16” x 15-1/8” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 5-6/16” x 16-5/8” – Drawer Front
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 16-5/8” x 17-3/16” – Door Base
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 5-9/16” x 16-5/8” – Upper False Drawer Front
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 11-3/8” x 16-5/8” – Lower False Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the sides and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws

Step 1
Step 2

 

 Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

 

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

  Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 4
Step 5

 

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer opening by 3/8” on the sides, and ¼” at the top and bottom.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. 

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

 

Cut the pieces for the door. Position the false fronts on the base with a ¼” gap in between. Fasten in place with glue and ½” brad nails. Install the hinges on the door, then position the door on the cabinet. The door will overlap the opening by ¼” on all sides.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Sep
23
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Queen Sized Bed! The frame can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal and more closely resemble the inspiration piece. This piece would be fabulous across from our Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Buffet which could easily double as a fabulous media cabinet. Just love this collection... Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 20 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 12 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 48” – Headboard Legs
  • 6 – 2x2 at 73” – Headboard & Footboard Stretchers
  • 8 – 2x2 at 7” – Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 27” x 73” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 2x2 at 10” – Footboard Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 89” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 61-1/2” – Support Frame
  • 2 – 2x4 at 89” – Support Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 82” – Center Support
  • 1 – 2x2 at 89” – Center Support
  • 2 – 1x6 at 65” – Slat Frame
  • 2 – 1x6 at 92” – Slat Frame
  • 20 – 1x3 at 65” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs, stretchers, support, and panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers and support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Assemble the headboard frame as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Insert the panel with the outside face flush with the outside face of the frame then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the footboard stretchers, legs, and support. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers and support. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

**For the remaining steps, DO NOT use glue so that the bed can be disassembled.

Cut the pieces for the side rails. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rail pieces as well as each end of the supports. Assemble as shown using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the support frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of all four pieces, as well as one long edge of each shorter piece (to attach to the headboard and footboard). Secure as shown using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the center support. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure as shown using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the slat frame. Cut the notches in the top edge of the longer pieces using a jigsaw. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the frame on the bed frame, then secure to the 2x2 framing pieces and 2x4 support pieces using countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the slats. Space them approximately 1” apart, then secure using countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
19
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Buffet! This starts another amazing collection of pieces that I am totally smitten with! The frame can be painted with metallic paint to mimic the metal base of the inspiration piece, or you can make it uniform to your finish on the rest of the piece. I just love the fact that a build is so custom to your preferences! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 4 - 1x6 at 8'
  • 5 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2  sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 5 cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 10” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 69” – Base Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 7” – Supports
  • 6 – 2x2 at 15” – Base Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 72” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 23-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/2” x 70-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 23-1/2” – Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 70-1/2” - Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 23” – Drawer Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/8” x 23” – Shelves
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x6 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x6 at 22” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-5/16” x 22-3/4” – Upper & Middle Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/16” x 22-3/4” – Lower Drawer Front
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” – Door Rails
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” – Door Stiles
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 15-1/4” x 17-3/4” – Door Panels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the base frame, supports, and the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame and support pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

If using edge banding, it will be applied before assembly.

Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the top of the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each shorter end. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the dividers and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes as shown noting that there will be a left and a right piece (this way the pocket holes are hidden inside the drawer bank). Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions then make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts noting that the bottom drawer front is taller. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Step 10
Step 10
Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the door frames and panels. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Insert into the frame and secure using 1” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
16
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Parquetry End Table! Last week we brought you Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Parquetry Dresser and now the coordinating end table, yahoo! We still have one more piece in this collection and it's perhaps the most exciting yet! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • ¼” plywood or lattice strips measuring 1-1/2” wide – approximately 2 – 8’ strips
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1 set of 14” drawer slides
  • One drawer pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 1x2 at 18-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16-13/16” – Aprons
  • 2 – 1x2 at 13-3/8” – Aprons
  • 2 – 1x2 at 26” – Lower Bracing
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 18-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 15” – Drawer Frame Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 20” – Drawer Frame Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 20” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x4 at 12-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x4 at 17-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 6-1/4” x 20” – Drawer Front Base
  • Strips of ¼” plywood or lattice strips at 1-1/2” x 6” to 8” long (your choice!)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper using a jigsaw or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the pieces for the aprons and cut 45 degree miters in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The inside face o the legs will be flush with the inside face of the aprons.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the cross braces. The pieces are cut extra long so that the angle can be cut to fit the legs. Because the bracing will cross to create a rectangle, the notches will have to be cut at an angle (see drawing). In other words, the notch will not be perpendicular to the board. Mark the center of the board on one end face. Draw a mark 3/8” on either side of the center mark. Use a square to draw the notch at a 13 degree angle, ¾” deep. Cut with a hacksaw or a jigsaw.

The bracing will be positioned on the legs 4” up from the floor. Assemble the bracing in an “X” and clamp to the legs to draw the angle for the cut. Cut using a jigsaw or miter saw, then drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the leg frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the drawer frame sides and back. Drill pocket holes in one shorter end of the sides. Secure to the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the frame to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the drawer slides to the inside of the frame. This will make them easier to install before the top is attached.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the piece for the top and secure to the drawer frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the drawer. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Install the drawer-side drawer slides and make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the drawer front base, as well as the trim pieces. There is no cut list or number of pieces listed. Most of the pieces will be attached to the drawer front as-is, but several will have to be cut to fit. Start by positioning the first piece at the bottom center of the drawer front base at a 45 degree angle as shown. Secure in place using glue and ½” brad nails.

Position the next piece perpendicular to the start piece as shown. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. Once these two pieces have been positioned, the rest of the pieces can be added, cutting and trimming as necessary.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Mark the position for the drawer pull and drill the holes. Position the drawer front as shown then drive a screw through each hole into the drawer box behind it. Open the drawer, then secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes in the front and finish drilling the holes for the drawer pull. Install the drawer pull.
For an easy tutorial, click here.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
13
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Parquetry Dresser, and one of three new pieces we will be covering in this fabulous little collection! I hope you guys like it, I know I do! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 Half sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 Full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • ¼” plywood or lattice strips measuring 1-1/2” wide – approximately 2 – 8’ strips
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 3 drawer pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 1x2 at 4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 14-7/8” – Aprons
  • 2 – 1x2 at 32-7/8” – Aprons
  • 1 – 1x2 at 14-7/16” - Support
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 36” – Bottom & Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 28-1/2” –Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 28-1/2” x 34-1/2” –Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 34-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 32” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x8 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x8 at 33-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 30” x 36” – Drawer Front Base
  • Strips of ¼” plywood or lattice strips at 1-1/2” x 6” to 8” long (your choice!)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the taper using a jigsaw or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the pieces for the aprons and cut 45 degree miters in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The inside face o the legs will be flush with the inside face of the aprons.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the support.  Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the aprons as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the leg frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges as shown. Secure to the bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the piece for the top and secure to sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottoms. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Install the drawer slides and make any necessary adjustments. 

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the drawer front base, as well as the trim pieces. There is no cut list or number of pieces listed. Most of the pieces will be attached to the drawer front as-is, but several will have to be cut to fit. Start by positioning the first piece at the top center of the drawer front base at a 45 degree angle as shown. Secure in place using glue and ½” brad nails.

Position the next piece perpendicular to the start piece as shown. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. Once these two pieces have been positioned, the rest of the pieces can be added, cutting and trimming as necessary.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Once all of the trim pieces have been positioned, the drawer front base can be cut apart for the individual drawer fronts. This way the trim pattern matches on each of the drawer fronts. It will also help to number the back side of the drawer fronts. Set the rip fence on the table saw the required distance away from the blade to create each drawer front. Run the piece through the saw. Reset the rip fence for the next drawer front, and run it through the saw. The drawer fronts can also be cut apart using a jigsaw and a straight edge. Mark the position for the drawer pulls on the front and drill the holes for the screws. Position the fronts in place on the cabinet and drive screws through the holes for the pull into the drawer boxes. Open the drawer and secure the front in place using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the front and finish drilling the holes for the pulls. There will be a 1/8” gap between the drawer fronts. For an easy tutorial, click here.

Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
03
2013
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: Sommerset Dresser

A friend needed some new dressers for her children and I said I could make them. Made loft beds for the children and the dresser are made to fit under the beds.

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
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