Oct
14
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hudson Nightstand. By special reader request we are expanding upon this fabulous collection we started a long time ago in a far off land... At least it feels that way. It's lovely to bring it back full circle and round out our plans for the gorgesou Hudson Collection! Hope you like... Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 - quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – ¼” thick x ¾” wide lattice strips at 8’
  • 1 piece of ¾” cove moulding at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 4 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 4 drawer pulls
  • 1 small pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 16-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 20” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 2x2 at 21-1/2” – Back Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 21-1/2” – Back Panel
  • 6 – 1x2 at 21-1/2” – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16-1/4” – Surface Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 26” – Top
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 17-3/4” x 21-1/4” – Flat Surface
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 19” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 8 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 8 – 1x3 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 4-3/8” x 21-1/4” – Drawer Front Base
  • 8 – ¼” x ¾” strips at 21-1/4” – Drawer Front Trim
  • 8 – ¼” x ¾” strips at 2-7/8” – Drawer Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and the panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the first one as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the remaining stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the surface supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the vertical stretcher and the back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. The piece will overhang the sides and the front by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the surface. After finishing, apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom so it will slide smoothly. Insert into the opening.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs, then make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the trim then attach using glue and 1” brad nails. 

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer front bases and the trim. Position the trim on the bases as shown then secure using glue and ½” brad nails.

Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front in the opening) then drive screws through the holes for the pulls into the drawer boxes. Open the drawer then secure the front with countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Make any necessary adjustments then finish drilling the holes for the pulls.

Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
09
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Carr Desk! I just love a good desk wtih substantial lines, don't you? Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 4 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 8 – ¼” x ½” x 3’ craft boards
  • 1 quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 4 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 6 drawer pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 29-1/4” – Sides & Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 30” – Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 15-3/4” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 30” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 30” – Large Shelf
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15-3/4” x 18-1/4” – Small Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 49-1/2” – Top
  • 4 – 1x3 at 19” – Lower Trim
  • 1 – 1x3 at 2-1/4” – Lower Trim
  • 1 – 1x3 at 18-3/4” – Lower Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 27-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Center Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 29” – Center Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 14-1/2” – Side Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 4 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Side Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x3 at 14-3/4” – Side Drawer Box Fronts & Backs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/4” x 14-1/2” – Large Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 14-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 14-3/4” – Large Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 4-1/2” x 29-3/4” – Center Drawer Front
  • 5 – ½” plywood at 4-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Side Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ½ (ripped to 5/8” wide) at 15-1/2” long – Large Drawer Front Spacers
  • 12 – ¼” x ½” craft board strips at 4-1/2” – Drawer Front Trim
  • 2 – ¼” x ½”– craft board strips at 28-3/4” – Center Drawer Front Trim
  • 10 – ¼” x ½” craft board strips at 14-1/2” – Side Drawer Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and divider, and the backs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back pieces as shown. Secure to the sides and divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Position the pieces as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the center shelf and the side shelves. Drill pocket holes in the side and back edges of each piece. Position the shelves as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the top. Position as shown with the sides and front overlapping by ¾”, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the lower trim. Secure the sides first, using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then secure the front pieces.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the side pieces. Attach the side pieces to the bottoms using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then attach the front and back pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides and divider to allow for the drawer fronts. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts as well as the spacers for the large drawer front. For the large drawer front only, set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Position the spacers between the drawer fronts and secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. The back face of these drawer fronts will be flush with the back face of the spacer – the front of the spacer will stick out ¼” to allow for the trim.

Cut the pieces for the trim. Secure the side pieces first using glue and ½” brad nails, then secure the top and bottom pieces.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Shim the drawer fronts in the openings – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides in the opening. Secure the drawer fronts to the drawer boxes using 1” brad nails. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Install the drawer pulls.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
27
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Mid Century Modern Credenza. This style is wonderful because of how easily it can mesh with other styles. I am not always a fan of pieces that are too matchy matchy, so mixing a modern piece with a vintage inspired piece or a traditional piece is a fabulous way to make your furniture look collected and intentional without it looking like you purchased it all from the same store! Don't be afraid to mix it up my friends... Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 4’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 3 sets of 18” drawer slides
  • 2 sets of European concealed hinges
  • 5 cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 72-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 21” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” x 72-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 20-1/4” – Divider
  • 3 – 1x2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 24” – Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x2 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 1-1/2” wide) at 47-3/4” – Front Stretcher
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 47-3/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 74” – Top
  • 4 – 2x4 at 11-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 48” – Base Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 11” – Base Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 11-3/4” – Base Support
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 21-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x6 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 16-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 6 - 1x6 (or ¾” plywood ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 23” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 25-1/4” – Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 24-5/16” - Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

If using edge banding, it will be applied before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each of the shorter edges of the bottom piece. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each side as well as the bottom edge. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes in the back edge as well as the bottom edge.  Position as shown, then secure to the base using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The pocket holes should face into the drawer area so they will not be visible.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The front will overhang by ¾”.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut a 30 degree angle in each end. Mark the taper, then cut using a jigsaw, a bandsaw, or a tapering jig on the table saw.

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Cut a 45 degree angle in each end of the long stretchers and the short stretchers. Also drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece (to attach to the bottom of the cabinet). Secure to the legs (the top of the stretchers will be flush with the top of the legs) using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Drill pocket holes in each end of the support piece. Position in the center of the longer stretchers then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the base frame on the bottom of the cabinet. It will be located 12” in from each side, and 3-1/4” from the front edge. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions then make any necessary adjustments.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts and pre-drill the holes for the handles. The drawer fronts will be flush with the left edge of the cabinet, and will overlap the drawer opening by ¼” at the top, bottom, and right side. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Position the second and third drawer fronts in the same manner with ¼” spacing between them.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap between them, and the right door will be flush with the right edge of the cabinet, as well as overlap the top and bottom of the opening by ¼”. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions then make any necessary adjustments. Install the cabinet pulls.

Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

For your chance to win $6000 for 6 seconds of your time, click here to learn more. Be sure to tag your video with #6secondsflat and #thedesignconfidential6 for a valid entry! 

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
25
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection CPU Cabinet! The components from the Original Office Collection can be mixed and matched. The length of the top will be cut separately, and depends on the number of components used with at least 24” for leg room if using as a desk. Isn't that fancy? Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

 

  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber

 

  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials

 

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 1 set of 18” drawer slides
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 16-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 20” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 19-1/4” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 20-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” - Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-5/8” x 18” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-9/16” x 18” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-9/16” x 15-1/8” – Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 5-6/16” x 16-5/8” – Drawer Front
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 16-5/8” x 17-3/16” – Door Base
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 5-9/16” x 16-5/8” – Upper False Drawer Front
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 11-3/8” x 16-5/8” – Lower False Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the sides and the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws

Step 1
Step 2

 

 Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

 

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

  Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 4
Step 5

 

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer opening by 3/8” on the sides, and ¼” at the top and bottom.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. 

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

 

Cut the pieces for the door. Position the false fronts on the base with a ¼” gap in between. Fasten in place with glue and ½” brad nails. Install the hinges on the door, then position the door on the cabinet. The door will overlap the opening by ¼” on all sides.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Sep
23
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Queen Sized Bed! The frame can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal and more closely resemble the inspiration piece. This piece would be fabulous across from our Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Buffet which could easily double as a fabulous media cabinet. Just love this collection... Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 20 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 12 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x4 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 48” – Headboard Legs
  • 6 – 2x2 at 73” – Headboard & Footboard Stretchers
  • 8 – 2x2 at 7” – Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 27” x 73” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 2x2 at 10” – Footboard Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 89” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 61-1/2” – Support Frame
  • 2 – 2x4 at 89” – Support Frame
  • 1 – 2x2 at 82” – Center Support
  • 1 – 2x2 at 89” – Center Support
  • 2 – 1x6 at 65” – Slat Frame
  • 2 – 1x6 at 92” – Slat Frame
  • 20 – 1x3 at 65” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the headboard legs, stretchers, support, and panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers and support. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Assemble the headboard frame as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Insert the panel with the outside face flush with the outside face of the frame then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the footboard stretchers, legs, and support. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers and support. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

**For the remaining steps, DO NOT use glue so that the bed can be disassembled.

Cut the pieces for the side rails. Drill pocket holes in each end of the rail pieces as well as each end of the supports. Assemble as shown using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the support frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of all four pieces, as well as one long edge of each shorter piece (to attach to the headboard and footboard). Secure as shown using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the center support. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Secure as shown using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the slat frame. Cut the notches in the top edge of the longer pieces using a jigsaw. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the frame on the bed frame, then secure to the 2x2 framing pieces and 2x4 support pieces using countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the slats. Space them approximately 1” apart, then secure using countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Sep
19
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Buffet! This starts another amazing collection of pieces that I am totally smitten with! The frame can be painted with metallic paint to mimic the metal base of the inspiration piece, or you can make it uniform to your finish on the rest of the piece. I just love the fact that a build is so custom to your preferences! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink bit for drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 4 - 1x6 at 8'
  • 5 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2  sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” screws
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 5 cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 10” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 69” – Base Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 7” – Supports
  • 6 – 2x2 at 15” – Base Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 72” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 23-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/2” x 70-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 23-1/2” – Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 70-1/2” - Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 23” – Drawer Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/8” x 23” – Shelves
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x6 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x6 at 22” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-5/16” x 22-3/4” – Upper & Middle Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/16” x 22-3/4” – Lower Drawer Front
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” – Door Rails
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” – Door Stiles
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 15-1/4” x 17-3/4” – Door Panels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the base frame, supports, and the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame and support pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach to the frames as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

If using edge banding, it will be applied before assembly.

Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the top of the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each shorter end. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the dividers and cut the notches using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes as shown noting that there will be a left and a right piece (this way the pocket holes are hidden inside the drawer bank). Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws from the underside.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the sides as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions then make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts noting that the bottom drawer front is taller. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Step 10
Step 10
Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the door frames and panels. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Insert into the frame and secure using 1” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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