Intermediate

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Emmett Trunk

01|11|12

Submitted by Lady Goats / Lady Goats - Emmett Trunk

Project Details

This trunk is a great piece to use as a coffee table or at the foot of your bed. It's a stylish storage option that packs a lot of punch. Based on the Pottery Barn trunk with the same name.

Dimensions

Tools

Circular Saw
Miter Saw
Drill
Countersink Bit
Kreg Jig

Lumber

10 - 1 x 4 x 8
2 - 1 x 3 x 8
3 - 2 x 2 x 8
2 - 1 x 2 x 8
1/2 sheet of 3/4" ply

Materials

1 1/4" pocket hole screws
2" screws
1 1/4" finish nails
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Finishing Supplies
1 set of decorative hinges
1 hasp
1 set of handles of your choice
about 24" of chain (optional)

Cut List

12 - 1 x 4 @ 46 1/2" (front and back planks)
12 - 1 x 4 @ 18" (side planks)
3 - 1 x 4 @ 45" (top planks)
3 - 1 x 3 @ 45" (top planks)
4 - 2 x 2 @ 14 1/4" (interior supports)
2 - 2 x 2 @ 45" (lengthwise supports)
4 - 2 x 2 @ 18 (lid supports)
2 - 1 x 2 @ 48" (front and back trim)
2 - 1 x 2 @ 19 1/2" (side trim)
3/4" ply @ 18" x 45"

Instructions

If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages.

Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Using pocket holes set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws, create two planks using five of your long plank boards, each.

Step 2

Create the short sides of the trunk by screwing 5 of the side boards to two 2 x 2 interior supports. Measure 1 1/2" from the top of the top board, and use 2" screws, screwing in through the 2 x 2.

Do this twice.

Step 3

Create the main box by screwing the long boards to the 2 x 2s from the inside with 2" screws.

Step 4

Create the top of the lid by planking the 1 x 3s & 1 x 4s in your desired order, using pocket holes set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. Make sure to predrill holes around the outsides of the plank so that you can attach the sides of the lid.

Step 5

Attach the short sides of the lid first with the last two side planks using pocket holes set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Attach the front and back planks to the lid using pocket holes set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Turn the main box over and attach the bottom by screwing into the 2 x 2s in all four corners, and using pocket holes set for 3/4" stock and 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 8

Attach the lengthwise supports using 2" screws and screwing from the inside of the 2x2 to the outsides of the box and into the corner supports.

Step 9

Attach the side trim first, using glue and 1 1/4" finish nails.

Step 10

Attach the front and back trim using glue and 1 1/4" finish nails

Step 11

Before attaching the lid to the box, screw in your lid supports by screwing through the 2 x 2s with 2" screws.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Emmett Trunk

Step 12

Attach your desired hardware. If your hinges don't support the lid, attach chain so the lid doesn't fly backwards.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Belmont Buffet

01|09|12

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

I pretty much adore this buffet! Absolutely adore it! The reclaimed wood look can be achieved by “abusing” it with a hammer, nail holes, chain, etc., leaving it out in the rain, or perhaps even a faux reclaimed finish would be fabulous. This piece would be an amazing island in a kitchen or used for storage in a family room!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

3 – 1x2 at 8’
3 – 1x3 at 8’
2-1x12 at 8’
3 – 2x3 at 8’
5 – 3x3 posts at 3’

Materials

1¼” pocket hole screws
1 ½” pocket hole screws
2 ½” pocket hole screws
1 ¼” screws
Small nails or 1 ¼” brads
Countersink bit for Drill
4 – drawer handles
4 – 1” wide angle brackets, optional
Center mount drawer slides – I recommend Accuride 1029, 17”- Rockler part no. 32557
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x2 at 70-1/2”- Front and Back Top Trim
2 – 1x2 at 20” – Side Top Trim
2 – 1x2 at 30-3/4” – Drawer Support
2 – 1x2 at 15” – Drawer Slide Support
4 – 1x3 at 30” – X Braces
2 – 1x3 at 64” – Back
4 – 1x12 at 30-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
4 – 1x12 at 15-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
4 – 2x3 at 15” – Sides
2 – 2x3 at 64” – Shelf Supports
2 – 2x3 at 30-3/4” – Shelf Supports
5 – 3x3 at 33-1/2” – Legs
1 – 12-1/2” x 64” of ¾” plywood – Back
2 – 20” x 69” of ¾” plywood – Tops
2 – 12-1/4” x 30-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Fronts
1 – 15” x 64” of ¾” plywood – Shelf
2 – 15-1/2” x 29” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Bottoms

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the legs to length and cut the 2x3 pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x3s. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the 1x3 pieces for the X braces as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown in the drawing. Assemble with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the plywood and 1x3 pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in the long edges of the plywood and in each end of the 1x3s. Assemble with 1-1/4” pocket hole screws as shown in the first drawing, then attach to sides with 1-1/2” pocket holes screws as shown in the second drawing.

Step 4

Cut the 1x3 pieces for the front. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the drawer and drawer slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of all supports. Attach to legs with 1-1/2” pocket hole screws and to the back as shown using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the 2x3 pieces for the shelf supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and attach the supports to the legs with 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Cut the plywood piece for the shelf. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back of the shelf. Attach to the supports with 1-1/2” pocket screws making sure the top of the shelf is flush with the top of the supports.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms and the sides. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom pieces and the two shorter edges of the sides. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The pocket holes for the sides will need to face the inside of the drawer box so they don’t show through the X braces.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer box front and back. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attach the drawer slides to the slide supports following the manufacturer’s instructions. The slides will be attached ¾” back from the front edge of the drawer support to allow for the drawer front.

Install the drawer boxes and make any necessary adjustments but do not attach the drawer fronts.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the holes for the handle placement and drill the holes all the way through the front. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Shim the drawer front in place and drill screws through the holes for the handles into the drawer box. Open the drawer and secure the front to the box from the inside. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Step 11

Cut the two pieces of plywood for the top. Attach the lower top to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws into the top piece of the back, sides and front. Attach the second top to the first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

If angle brackets on the corners of the top are desired, the can be attached “as is” or primed and spray painted in the finish you choose.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Belmont Buffet

Step 12

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the trim. Attach the sides first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front and back.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod Oak Park Elementary Inspired Desk

01|04|12

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

This is a great desk your kiddo can use from preschool to college. The modern design is the perfect addition to any décor. Need more storage? No problem! Plans are coming soon for the Hutch that will attach to the top of the desk!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Safety Gear
Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Table Saw
Drill Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

1 sheet of ¾” plywood
½ sheet of ¾” plywood
4 – 3x3 posts, at least 29-1/4” long
1 – 2x3 at 8’ 2 – 1x3 at 8’
1 – 1x12 at 8’ ½ sheet of ¼” ply, lauan, or hardboard

Materials

1- 1/4” pocket hole screws
1-1/2” pocket hole screws
1-1/2” wood screws
Iron On Edge Banding, if desired
3 Drawer Pulls
3 – sets of 22” Drawer Slides
Wood filler
Sanding Supplies
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 3x3 at 29-1/4” – Legs
2 – 21” x 21-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Sides
1 – 21-1/4” x 42-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Back
1 – 26 x 47-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Top
4 – 2x3 at 21” – Supports
1 – 25” x 42-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Shelf
1 – 3-3/4” x 25” of ¾” plywood – Divider
1 – 16” x 25” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Shelf
1 – 16-3/4” x 25” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Side
2 – 1x12 at 15” – Large Drawer Front & Back
2 – 1x12 at 20-1/2” – Large Drawer Sides
2 – 1x3 at 25” – Wide Drawer Front & Back
2 – 1x3 at 15” – Small Drawer Front & Back
4 – 1x3 at 20-1/2” – Wide & Small Drawer Sides
1 – 22” x 25” of ¼” ply, lauan, or hardboard for Wide Drawer Bottom
2 – 15” x 22” of ¼” ply, lauan, or hardboard for Small & Large Drawer Bottoms
1 – 3-1/2” x 25-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Wide Drawer Front
1 – 3-1/2” x 15-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Small Drawer Front
1 – 15-3/4” x 15-3/4” of ¾” plywood – Large Drawer Front

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the legs and sides as indicated. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the long edges of the sides. The sides will be attached to the legs at 1-1/2” from the inside edge. See Drawing.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes along the shorter edges and attach to the legs 1-1/2” from the inside. The back will sit ¼” away from the face of the legs on the outside.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the top. The top will be attached with glue and brad nails through the top face into the legs, sides and back..

Step 4

Attach the supports to the inside of the legs with the spacing indicated. The Kreg jig will be set for 1-1/2” material. The face of the supports will be flush with the inside faces of the legs.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelf and the divider. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in one long edge of the divider and in the short edges of the shelf. The divider will be attached to the shelf at the spacing indicated before the shelf is attached to the desk. The bottom of the shelf will be flush with the bottom of the dividers. Use a few brad nails to secure the divider through the top.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the large drawer shelf and side. Drill pocket holes in each long edge of the shelf and in one long edge of the side (to attach to the top). Attach the shelf to the side with pocket screws and glue before attaching to the desk. The bottom of the shelf will be flush with the bottom of the support.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawers and assemble as indicated. Attach the drawer slide hardware to the inside of the desk. The slides will need to be located 3/4" away from the front edge to accomodate the drawer front. Do not attach the faces!

Step 8

Pre-drill the holes in the drawer faces for the pulls. Insert each drawer front into the opening and shim in place. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides for ease in opening and closing the drawer. Screw the drawer fronts to the boxes from the front through the holes for the pulls. Open each drawer and fasten the fronts with screws from the inside of the drawer box, then remove the screws on the outside. Finish drilling out these holes for the pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Kenwood Bookcase

12|29|11

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Another piece for the Kenwood Collection… This would be a great addition to a family room or playroom, also!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

12 – 1x4 at 6’
3 – 1x3 at 6’**
4 – 1x2 at 6’
1 - 1x2 at 6’
1 sheet of ¾” plywood

** A sheet of beadboard could be substituted if you didn’t want to assemble all of those 1x3s for the planked look! The beadboard is approx. ½” thick so adjust the depth of the top accordingly.

Materials

1¼” pocket hole screws
¾ ” screws
Small nails or 1” brads
1” angle brackets (6)
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 1x2 at 11”- Side Frame
4 – 1x2 at 49¼”- Side Frame
2 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 43¼”- Sides
12 – 1x4 at 46¼”- Back**
3 – ¾” plywood at 13 ”x 42”, Shelves & Bottom
1 – 1x2 at 38½” – Upper Front Frame
1 – 1x3 at 38½” – Lower Front Frame
1 – 1x3 at 49¼” – Front Frame Sides
1 – ¾” plywood at 15¼”x44” - Top

** If using beadboard for back, cut to 43½” x 46¼”

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Side Frame and Sides. With the Kreg jig set for ¾” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the upper and lower frame pieces, as well as the side pieces, as indicated. Assemble with glue and screws.

Step 2

If you are going to assemble 1x4s for the back, cut all pieces to length, drill pocket holes, and assemble. The pocket holes do not have to be perfectly lined up. Attach to the inside of the side frames with screws. If you are using beadboard, cut the piece to the size indicated. Attach to the back of the side frames with glue and small nails or a brad nailer.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves and bottom. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shelves and bottom. Attach the bottom and check cabinet for square before installing the shelves. Attach the shelves with the spacing indicated.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Face Frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the upper frame piece and the lower frame piece. Attach to cabinet front using glue and small brads or a brad nailer.

Step 5

Install 1” angle brackets to inside of cabinet for the top – One on each side, and two on the front and back. Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the front frame and sides by ¼”. Screw through the hole in the brackets into the underside of the top.

Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability. If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly. Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build PB Inspired Vintage Lockers

12|27|11

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

A very simple build, with big impact style and design! This piece is awesome for entryway home organization! Everything would have its own place, and of course the numbers on the doors could be replaced with letters or names, even pets names... So fun!

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build PB Inspired Vintage Lockers

Dimensions

Tools

Tape measure
Drill
Safety Gear
Kreg Jig
Table saw and Miter, Jig, or Circular saw
Brad nailer

Lumber

1- 1x2 at 8’
1-1/2 x 2 at 4’
2- scraps of 1x2 each at least 14-1/4” long
2- sheets** ¾” plywood
1- sheet** ¼” lauan or hardboard

** The doors can be made from beadboard paneling, too, but you will have to buy a sheet of ½” plywood for backing as the beadboard is generally ¼”.
** Scraps of lauan or hardboard can be used as long as the seams are hidden behind shelves or dividers!

Materials

1-1/4” pocket screws
1-1/4” screws
1-1/4” brad nails
Countersink bit
4 – hinges
2 – handles
Shelf pins
Coat Hooks, if desired
Numbers of your choice – Wood, stencils, etc.
Wood glue
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 15” x 70-1/4” of ¾” plywood - Sides
1 – 15” x 30-1/4” of ¾” plywood – Bottom
1 – 15” x 68” of ¾” plywood – Divider
1 – 15-1/2” x 32” of ¾” plywood - Top
2 – 1x2 at 14-1/4” long – Fixed Shelf Supports
2 – 14-1/4” x 15-5/8” – Fixed Shelves
1 – 32” x 70” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Back
1 – 1x2 at 30-1/4” – Lower Filler
1 – ½ x 2 at 32” – Lower Trim
2 – 1 x2 at 14-3/4” – Upper Trim
2 – 14-3/8” x 66-1/4” of ¾” plywood - Doors
X - 14-1/4” x 15” – Adjustable Shelves – “X” is the quantity you choose!

Instructions

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides and the bottom. Measure from the top and mark the holes for the shelf pins (for the adjustable shelves). Do not drill the holes completely through the board! Also, drill holes in the top of the side pieces for attaching the top.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the bottom piece. Attach the bottom to the sides 1-1/2” up from each end with 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 2

Cut the top and attach to the sides with the back being flush and the front overlapping by ½”. Check for square.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end. Also, measuring from the top and using the same spacing as the sides, mark the holes for the shelf pins. These holes can be drilled all the way through the board so that the spacing is the same on both sides. Center it in the cabinet as indicated and secure with pocket screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Using a drill with a countersink bit, drill holes directly through the face of the supports and attach to the sides at 11” from the bottom with 1-1/4” screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the fixed shelves as indicated. Using a drill with a countersink bit, drill holes through the top of the shelves into the supports as indicated. Secure with 1-1/4” screws.

Step 6

Cut the ¼” lauan or hardboard for the back. If you are using scrap pieces, make sure the seams will fall behind the shelves or divider. Secure with glue and brad nails.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the lower filler, the lower trim and the upper trim. Attach the lower filler with glue and brad nails to the front underside of the bottom, between the sides. Attach the trim piece to the front of this piece overlapping the sides with glue and brad nails. Attach the upper trim between the sides and the divider.

Step 8

Cut the pieces as indicated for the doors. The doors will have a 1/8” gap around all sides. Attach the hinges to the door and shim in place in the opening. Secure the hinges to the locker. Attach the handles to the doors.

Cut any additional shelves, as desired. Add coat hooks, also.

The numbers can be stenciled on and distressed for a vintage look. Painted wood or MDF cutouts would work well also. If building more than one locker cabinet, the lockers can be attached together with screws.

Finishing Instructions

If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Inspired Carolina Craft Table with Interchangeable Leg Option

12|22|11

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Here is our version of the Carolina Craft Table but this time with the addition of interchangeable legs! The design is exactly the same as the original Carolina Craft Table but it is assembled in a different way to allow for the legs to be removed and replaced that way this table can grow with your little one!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Safety Gear
Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

**1 - 3x3 Posts at 8’
1 - 1x3 at 4’
1 - 1x3 at 8’
1 - 1x4 at 4’
1 - 1x4 at8’
1 - 1” Round Dowel Rod at 2'
1/4 sheet of 1/4” plywood
Full sheet of 3/4” plywood
**If 3x3 posts are not available in your area or are too expensive, 1x3 lumber can be face-glued to 2x3 lumber to create posts. Keep in mind that the depth will differ by 1/4” so the aprons need to be adjusted accordingly (longer by 1/2" total).
**Purchase 1 additional 1x3 at 8’ and 1 additional 2x3 at 8' for this step.

Materials

1 1/4” pocket hole screws
1 1/2” screws
1 1/4” spade bit or hole saw
1 1/2” brad nail
Drawer knobs or handles
Wood filler
Sanding Supplies
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 3x3 at 22 1/4” (Legs)
1 - 1x4 at 40” (Long Apron)*
2 - 1x4 at 20” (Short Aprons)
4 - 1x4 at 23½” (Table Top Supports)
3 - 1x4 at 4” (Apron Pieces on Drawer End)
1 - 3/4" plywood at 27”x49” (Top)
2 - 1x4 at 14” (Drawer Faces)
4 - 1x3 at 11½” (Drawer Sides)
4 - 1x3 at 13” (Drawer Box Fronts and Backs)
2 - 1/4" plywood 13”x13” (Drawer Bottoms)
** If making your own posts from 1x3 lumber, add ½” the length of these pieces.

Instructions

Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Using the saw of your choice, cut the top from ¾” plywood.

Step 2

Cut the apron pieces as listed above and add pocket holes to each end (sized for 3/4" stock) and one of the long edges. (These will face to the inside.) Attach the aprons to the table top as indicated using 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. The long aprons will have angle brackets attached to the ends which will attach to the legs. Because of the table supports and drawers, pocket holes will not work here. You will not be able to get the drill in the small space to add or remove screws when replacing the legs.

Don’t forget to use glue for an extra strong joint!

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the paper roll. Use a compass to draw a 1 1/4” radius on one end and cut out with a jig saw. Bore a 1 1/4” hole through each piece. Secure to one end of the table, at the short apron, by screwing it to the apron from the inside. You can also secure it with a brad nailer that shoots 1½” brads.

Step 4

Cut the top supports and add pocket holes to each end (sized for 3/4" stock). Also add pocket holes to one long end of each board to secure the table top (sized for 3/4" stock). Cut the 4” apron pieces that will be placed next to the drawers. Drill pocket holes in only two of these boards, on one end only so that the pieces can be mounted to the legs. You will build one “U” shaped box and two “L” shaped boxes. Space the supports on the long aprons as indicated and secure with glue/screws. The drawer slide hardware will be mounted on the lower end of these supports in each drawer opening.

Step 5

A quick and accurate way to line the faces up is to pre-drill the holes for the knobs or handles, line up the drawer face so it fits in the opening and put a screw through the holes into the drawer box. Pull the drawer out and fasten the face to the box from the inside. Finish drilling out the knob/handle holes.

Step 6

A view of how the drawer will look when the front is added. DO NOT add the drawer faces until the drawer is installed! See the previous step.

Step 7

Cut the legs to the height that you choose – 14-1/4” for a finished table height of 15”, 22-1/4” for a finished table height of 23”, or 29-1/4” for a finished table height of 30”. Attach to apron with screws through the pocket holes and angle brackets.

Finishing Instructions

If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

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Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an RH Inspired Kenwood Changing Table

12|21|11

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Another piece for the Kenwood Collection… This piece would grow with your child. Just remove the topper and it could be storage for clothes or toys! It would be a good idea to sand each piece before assembly. This will make the finishing so much easier!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure
Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
Drill
Square
Sander
Kreg Jig
Hammer or Brad nailer

Lumber

1 – 1x4 at 6’
1 – 1x4 at 8’
15 – 1x3 at 8’
1 – 1x2 at 8’
1 - 1x2 at 6’
2 - 1x8 at 6’
1 – 2x2 at 8’
1 sheet of ¾” plywood
1/2 sheet of ¼” lauan, plywood or hardboard

Materials

1¼” pocket hole screws
1¼” screws
Small nails or 1” brads
1” angle brackets (6) with screws
2 – Strap Hinges
4 – Drawer Pulls
2 – narrow mending plates (to attach changing box to top)
2 – sets of 14” drawer slides
Wood filler
Sandpaper
Wood glue
Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2 – 1x2 at 40” – Front & Back Frames
2 – 1x3 at 40” – Front & Back Frames
4 – 1x3 at 34-1/2” – Front & Back Frames
32 – 1x3 at 27-1/2” – Back Planks
2 - 1x2 at 15” – Side Frames
2 – 1x3 at 15”- Side Frames
4 – 1x3 at 34-1/4” - Side Frames
12 – 1x3 at 27-1/2” – Side Panels
2 – 1x2 at 40” – Drawer Frame
1 – 1x2 at 8” – Drawer Frame
3 – 2x2 at 18” – Drawer Slide Support
2 – 18” x 43-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Bottom & Shelf
1 – 19-3/4” x 45-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Top
2 – 1x2 at 18” – Shelf Supports
4-1x8 at 18-1/4” – Drawer Boxes
4 – 1x8 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
2 – 16” x 18-1/4” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Drawer Bottoms
2 – 7-3/4” x 19” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Fronts
4 – 1x3 at 15” – Door Frames
2 – 1x3 at 16-1/4” – Door Frames
2 – 1x3** at 16-1/4” (ripped to 2-3/8” wide) – Door Frames
12 – 1x3 at 11-1/4” – Door Panels
2 – 1x4 at 45” – Topper Frame
2 – 1x4 at 18” – Topper Frame
1 – 18” x 45” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Topper Bottom

Instructions

If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and

Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces as indicated for the Front and Back Frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material. Drill holes and assemble with glue and 1-1/4” screws.

Step 2

Cut the Back Panel pieces as indicated for the back frames. Assemble with glue and screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces as indicated for the Side Frames. Assemble with glue and screws, then add the Side Panel Pieces.

Step 4

Attach the Front and Back Frames to the Sides through the front of the frames into the sides using glue and a brad nailer. Fill the nail holes.

Step 5

Cut the plywood pieces for the Bottom and the Shelf. After making sure the cabinet is square, attach the bottom with 1-1/4” screws. The top face of the bottom should be level with the top of the front, side and back frames.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Shelf Support and attach them with the spacing indicated. Attach the Shelf to the supports with 1-1/4” screws through the top of the shelf into the support.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Drawer Frame. Attach to front as indicated.

Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the sides and the front by ¼”. Install the angle brackets to the inside, then secure the top.

Step 9

Cut the 2x2 pieces for the Drawer Slide Supports and install as indicated.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the Drawer Boxes from the 1x8 material. Construct the boxes and attach the bottoms with glue and a brad nailer. Attach the drawer slide hardware to the drawer boxes and to the supports inside the cabinet setting it ¾” back from the edge of the drawer frame to allow for the drawer front. Do not attach the drawer fronts until the drawers have been installed and any necessary adjustments have been made.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Drawer Fronts. Drill the holes through the piece for the handle. Insert the face into the opening and shim in place. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Insert screws through the holes for the handle into the boxes to temporarily attach the face to the drawer. Open the drawer and attach the drawer front to the front of the box from the inside. Remove the temporary screws through the holes on the front and finish drilling the holes for the handle.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an RH Inspired Kenwood Changing Table

Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Door Frames and assemble with 1-1/4” screws and glue. Insert the center panels. Lay the doors out, face up, with the 2-3/8” frame pieces in the center. Attach the hinges to the outside of the door frames. Insert the door into the opening and shim in place. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides except the center. If a gap is desired between the doors, lessen the gap between the sides of the door and the sides of the front frame. See Drawing.

Step 13

Cut the pieces for the Topper. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” screws. Attach the bottom with glue and a brad nailer. If desired, self-stick felt pads can be placed on the bottom to prevent marring on the top. Attach the topper to the cabinet by using small mending plates attached to the back of the topper as well as the back of the cabinet.

Finishing Instructions

If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

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Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Arc Chair

12|15|11

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

Wow was all I could say when I first saw this chair! I love the arc detail! The arcs can be cut from a template (details below) in case you decide to build more than one! I’m going to build mine using plywood scraps and leave the edges exposed! Can’t wait to see how that turns out!

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure

Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter

Square

Sander

Kreg Jig

Lumber

1-1x8 at least 22” long

2-2x2 at 8’

2-2x8 at least 32” long

2’x2’ piece of ½” plywood

Scrap ¼” plywood for arc template at least 7” wide x 32” long

Materials

2½” screws

2½” pocket hole screws

Countersink bit for Drill

Router with Flush Trim Bit

Foam and Fabric for Seat

Stapler

Wood filler

Sandpaper

Wood glue

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2-2x2 at 15” – Legs

1-2x2 at 21½” – Front

2-2x2 at 21 1/8” – Seat Frame Sides

2-2x2 at 18 ½” – Seat Frame Support and Back

2-2x8 at 32”-Arcs

1-1x8 at 21 ½” – Back

1-21 ½ x 22 5/8 piece of ½” plywood - Seat

Instructions

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces as listed for the front and legs. Assemble with pocket holes and glue. Don’t forget to set your Kreg jig for 1½” stock!

Step 2

Cut pieces for seat frame and assemble with pocket holes and glue. Space the center support piece as indicated. Attach to front frame.

Step 3

Cut the arcs using a template.

To make a template:
Draw your piece on a scrap of ¼” lauan or hardboard. Cut it out with a jigsaw and smooth any rough edges with a sander. Check the fit of the template against any pieces already built. For example, if it is a back chair leg template, the chair should already be constructed to this point. Any adjustments that need to be made can be made to the template before cutting the actual lumber. Drill a hole in the template for hanging and label it for later use.

To cut out your piece with a template:
Trace the template onto your piece of lumber and roughly cut out the shape making sure to stay outside of the lines. Attach the template to the piece with strong double-sided tape. Using a router and a flush trim bit, make sure you set the height of the bit so the guide will run along the edge of the template. Cut around the template. Depending on the length of your bit, you may have to make more than one pass around the template. In other words, if the piece you are cutting is 1½” deep and your bit is 1” deep, you will cut the piece around the template. Adjust the depth of the bit, then make another pass with the router. The guide bearing will not follow the template the second time but will follow the piece that has already been cut. Clear as mud? Here is a great demo on how to do this: http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-use-router-templates-and-bearing...

Using a template will make your pieces more consistent and uniform, and you’ll have it in case you decide to build more than one!

Step 4

Attach the arcs to the chair frame making sure the front of the arc is level with the front leg. Drill holes into the frame using a countersink bit and screw from the inside. You can also drive a screw through the front of the leg into the end of the arc, if desired.

Step 5

Cut pieces as indicated for rear legs. Cut angles as indicated and drill a pocket hole in the top end of each leg. Don’t forget – you will have a right and a left! Line up the leg with the arc making sure the leg spacing at the floor is approximately 25 7/8” and the height from the floor to the top of the seat frame is 15”. It is more important to have the seat height correct than the leg spacing. Drill holes inside the seat frame with a countersink bit and attach the legs from the inside.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the back from the 1x8 material. Drill pocket holes in each end. Two at each end should be sufficient but if you are more comfortable with three, do it! Attach the back making it as flush as possible with the front of the arcs.

Step 7

Cut the plywood for the seat and cover with foam and fabric. The thickness of the foam is your choice… I would use 2” foam and cover it with Dacron (upholstery batting) before I cover it with fabric. After the chair finishing is complete, attach the seat to the frame by drilling countersunk holes into the bottom of the chair support and secure with screws. You could also drill holes into the bottom of the front and back of the frame and fasten it in the same manner.
You can also attach the seat directly to the chair and make a separate cushion if you want to swap it out without taking the seat apart.

Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a RH Inspired Kenwood Nightstand

12|14|11

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

I love the look of this collection, with the planked panels and strap hinges! Depending on the finish you use, this could have either a rustic or modern appearance!

Estimated Cost

Around $40

Dimensions

Tools

Tape Measure

Saw: Jig, Circular, or Miter

Square

Sander

Kreg Jig

Brad nailer

Lumber

1/2 sheet of 3/4" plywood

1/4 sheet of 1/4 plywood

6 - 1x3 at 8'

1 - 1x2 at 6' or a scrap piece at least 18" long

Materials

1 1/4" pocket hole screws

1 1/4" brad nails

Drawer pull or Door Handle

2 - strap hinges

Wood filler

Sanding Supplies

Wood glue

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

1 - 1x2 at 17 3/4" -Front Frame

6 - 1x3 at 12 1/2" -Door Frame, Side Frames

5 - 1x3 at 14 1/4" -Door

1 - 1x3 at 17 3/4" -Front Frame

10 - 1x3 at 18 1/2" -Side Panels

2 - 1x3 at 19 1/4" -Door Frame

6 - 1x3 at 26 1/4" -Side Frames, Front Frame

1 - 1/4" ply at 21 3/4" x 22 3/4" -Back

2 - 3/4" ply at 17 1/2" x 21 1/4" -Shelf & Bottom

1 - 3/4" ply at 18 3/4" x 23 1/4" -Top

Instructions

Step 1

Cut out the pieces as listed for the sides. You should have four 1x3 pieces at 12 1/2" which will be the tops and bottoms for each side, four 1x3 pieces at 26 1/4" for the sides of the frames, and ten 1x3 pieces at 18 1/2" for the panels. I like to drill all of my pocket holes first, then assemble.

Step 2

Cut and attach shelf and bottom. As a note, the top of the board used for the bottom should be flush with the top of the lower rail on the sides, see drawing.

Step 3

Cut the back from the 1/4" material. Attach with glue and nails (or a brad nailer) after making sure the cabinet is square.

Step 4

Cut the door frame pieces. I like to assemble these frames as one piece (face frame) rather than attach them individually, so use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Attach to front with glue and nails (or a brad nail).

Step 5

Cut and attach top. The top will overhang the front and sides by 1/4". It can be attached by using a brad nailer and fastening directly through the top into the sides and the front frame or by using 1" angle brackets.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the door: you should have two 1x3 pieces at 12 1/2" for the top and bottom of the frame, two 1x3 pieces at 19 1/4" for the sides and five 1x3 pieces at 14 1/4" for the panel. The door should have an 1/8" gap on all sides between it and the frame.

Step 7

Attach the hinges and the knob. I find it easier to attach the hinges to the door first, then line it up and use shims to help keep it in place while attaching the hinge to the frame but use whatever method you feel comfortable with is fine.

Finishing Instructions

If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly on the cabinet and shelves, and brush-on poly for the top for added durability.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

Comments

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PB Kids Inspired Carolina Craft Table

12|10|11

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C

Project Details

What a fabulous table this is, especially for budding artists and little crafters in our lives! The paper roll will keep them busy creating for hours on end!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions

Tools

Safety Gear

Tape Measure

Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter

Square

Sander

Kreg Jig

Brad nailer

Lumber

**1 - 3x3 Posts at 8’

1 - 1x3 at 4’

1 - 1x3 at 8’

1 - 1x4 at 4’

1 - 1x4 at8’

1 - 1” Round Dowel Rod at 2'

1/4 sheet of 1/4” plywood

Full sheet of 3/4” plywood

**If 3x3 posts are not available in your area or are too expensive, 1x3 lumber can be face-glued to 2x3 lumber to create posts. Keep in mind that the depth will differ by 1/4” so the aprons need to be adjusted accordingly (longer by 1/2" total).

**Purchase 1 additional 1x3 at 8’ and 1 additional 2x3 at 8' for this step.

Materials

1 1/4” pocket hole screws

1 1/2” screws

1 1/4” spade bit or hole saw

1 1/2” brad nail

Drawer knobs or handles

Wood filler

Sanding Supplies

Wood glue

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 3x3 at 22 1/4” (Legs)

1 - 1x4 at 40” (Long Apron)*

2 - 1x4 at 20” (Short Aprons)

4 - 1x4 at 23½” (Table Top Supports)

3 - 1x4 at 4” (Apron Pieces on Drawer End)

1 - 3/4" plywood at 27”x49” (Top)

2 - 1x4 at 14” (Drawer Faces)

4 - 1x3 at 11½” (Drawer Sides)

4 - 1x3 at 13” (Drawer Box Fronts and Backs)

2 - 1/4" plywood 13”x13” (Drawer Bottoms)

** If making your own posts from 1x3 lumber, add ½” the length of these pieces.

Instructions

Step 1

Using the saw of your choice, cut the posts to the length indicated.

Step 2

Cut the apron pieces as listed above and add pocket holes to each end (sized for 3/4" stock). Two at each end will be sufficient. Also add pocket holes to one long end of each of the shorter aprons to secure the table top. (These will face to the inside.) Attach the aprons flush with the front of the legs using the 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. Don’t forget to use glue for an extra strong joint!

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Cut and assemble the pieces for the drawer boxes. Attach 1/4” plywood to the bottom and secure with glue and brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware to the boxes but DO NOT attach the drawer faces until you have the drawers installed.
A quick and accurate way to line the faces up is to pre-drill the holes for the knobs or handles, line up the drawer face so it fits in the opening and put a screw through the holes into the drawer box. Pull the drawer out and fasten the face to the box from the inside. Finish drilling out the knob/handle holes.

Step 6

A view of how the drawer will look when the front is added. DO NOT add the drawer faces until the drawer is installed! See the previous step.

Step 7

Cut the table top to the measurements indicated. The top will hang over the table by 1” on each long side and 2” on each short side. Secure to table frame using 1 1/4” pocket hole screws through pocket holes drilled on long sides of 20” aprons and supports. Remove one drawer at a time while attaching the top to keep the openings square.
Add nail-on furniture glides to bottom of legs, if desired. I’ve also used adjustable glides on my tables.
To finish the edges of the tabletop, use iron-on edge banding or sand the edges and leave them exposed.

Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability..
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly on the legs and aprons, and brush-on poly for the top for added durability.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer