Intermediate

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Wow was all I could say when I first saw this chair! I love the arc detail! The arcs can be cut from a template (details below) in case you decide to build more than one! I’m going to build mine using plywood scraps and leave the edges exposed! Can’t wait to see how that turns out!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Tape Measure

Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter

Square

Sander

Kreg Jig

Lumber

1-1x8 at least 22” long

2-2x2 at 8’

2-2x8 at least 32” long

2’x2’ piece of ½” plywood

Scrap ¼” plywood for arc template at least 7” wide x 32” long

Materials

2½” screws

2½” pocket hole screws

Countersink bit for Drill

Router with Flush Trim Bit

Foam and Fabric for Seat

Stapler

Wood filler

Sandpaper

Wood glue

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

2-2x2 at 15” – Legs

1-2x2 at 21½” – Front

2-2x2 at 21 1/8” – Seat Frame Sides

2-2x2 at 18 ½” – Seat Frame Support and Back

2-2x8 at 32”-Arcs

1-1x8 at 21 ½” – Back

1-21 ½ x 22 5/8 piece of ½” plywood - Seat

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces as listed for the front and legs. Assemble with pocket holes and glue. Don’t forget to set your Kreg jig for 1½” stock!

Step 1
Step 2

Cut pieces for seat frame and assemble with pocket holes and glue. Space the center support piece as indicated. Attach to front frame.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the arcs using a template.

To make a template:
Draw your piece on a scrap of ¼” lauan or hardboard. Cut it out with a jigsaw and smooth any rough edges with a sander. Check the fit of the template against any pieces already built. For example, if it is a back chair leg template, the chair should already be constructed to this point. Any adjustments that need to be made can be made to the template before cutting the actual lumber. Drill a hole in the template for hanging and label it for later use.

To cut out your piece with a template:
Trace the template onto your piece of lumber and roughly cut out the shape making sure to stay outside of the lines. Attach the template to the piece with strong double-sided tape. Using a router and a flush trim bit, make sure you set the height of the bit so the guide will run along the edge of the template. Cut around the template. Depending on the length of your bit, you may have to make more than one pass around the template. In other words, if the piece you are cutting is 1½” deep and your bit is 1” deep, you will cut the piece around the template. Adjust the depth of the bit, then make another pass with the router. The guide bearing will not follow the template the second time but will follow the piece that has already been cut. Clear as mud? Here is a great demo on how to do this: http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-use-router-templates-and-bearing...

Using a template will make your pieces more consistent and uniform, and you’ll have it in case you decide to build more than one!

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the arcs to the chair frame making sure the front of the arc is level with the front leg. Drill holes into the frame using a countersink bit and screw from the inside. You can also drive a screw through the front of the leg into the end of the arc, if desired.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut pieces as indicated for rear legs. Cut angles as indicated and drill a pocket hole in the top end of each leg. Don’t forget – you will have a right and a left! Line up the leg with the arc making sure the leg spacing at the floor is approximately 25 7/8” and the height from the floor to the top of the seat frame is 15”. It is more important to have the seat height correct than the leg spacing. Drill holes inside the seat frame with a countersink bit and attach the legs from the inside.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the back from the 1x8 material. Drill pocket holes in each end. Two at each end should be sufficient but if you are more comfortable with three, do it! Attach the back making it as flush as possible with the front of the arcs.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the plywood for the seat and cover with foam and fabric. The thickness of the foam is your choice… I would use 2” foam and cover it with Dacron (upholstery batting) before I cover it with fabric. After the chair finishing is complete, attach the seat to the frame by drilling countersunk holes into the bottom of the chair support and secure with screws. You could also drill holes into the bottom of the front and back of the frame and fasten it in the same manner.
You can also attach the seat directly to the chair and make a separate cushion if you want to swap it out without taking the seat apart.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

I love the look of this collection, with the planked panels and strap hinges! Depending on the finish you use, this could have either a rustic or modern appearance!

Estimated Cost

Around $40

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Tape Measure

Saw: Jig, Circular, or Miter

Square

Sander

Kreg Jig

Brad nailer

Lumber

1/2 sheet of 3/4" plywood

1/4 sheet of 1/4 plywood

6 - 1x3 at 8'

1 - 1x2 at 6' or a scrap piece at least 18" long

Materials

1 1/4" pocket hole screws

1 1/4" brad nails

Drawer pull or Door Handle

2 - strap hinges

Wood filler

Sanding Supplies

Wood glue

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

1 - 1x2 at 17 3/4" -Front Frame

6 - 1x3 at 12 1/2" -Door Frame, Side Frames

5 - 1x3 at 14 1/4" -Door

1 - 1x3 at 17 3/4" -Front Frame

10 - 1x3 at 18 1/2" -Side Panels

2 - 1x3 at 19 1/4" -Door Frame

6 - 1x3 at 26 1/4" -Side Frames, Front Frame

1 - 1/4" ply at 21 3/4" x 22 3/4" -Back

2 - 3/4" ply at 17 1/2" x 21 1/4" -Shelf & Bottom

1 - 3/4" ply at 18 3/4" x 23 1/4" -Top

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out the pieces as listed for the sides. You should have four 1x3 pieces at 12 1/2" which will be the tops and bottoms for each side, four 1x3 pieces at 26 1/4" for the sides of the frames, and ten 1x3 pieces at 18 1/2" for the panels. I like to drill all of my pocket holes first, then assemble.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut and attach shelf and bottom. As a note, the top of the board used for the bottom should be flush with the top of the lower rail on the sides, see drawing.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the back from the 1/4" material. Attach with glue and nails (or a brad nailer) after making sure the cabinet is square.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the door frame pieces. I like to assemble these frames as one piece (face frame) rather than attach them individually, so use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Attach to front with glue and nails (or a brad nail).

Step 4
Step 5

Cut and attach top. The top will overhang the front and sides by 1/4". It can be attached by using a brad nailer and fastening directly through the top into the sides and the front frame or by using 1" angle brackets.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the door: you should have two 1x3 pieces at 12 1/2" for the top and bottom of the frame, two 1x3 pieces at 19 1/4" for the sides and five 1x3 pieces at 14 1/4" for the panel. The door should have an 1/8" gap on all sides between it and the frame.

Step 6
Step 7

Attach the hinges and the knob. I find it easier to attach the hinges to the door first, then line it up and use shims to help keep it in place while attaching the hinge to the frame but use whatever method you feel comfortable with is fine.

Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.

If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly on the cabinet and shelves, and brush-on poly for the top for added durability.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

What a fabulous table this is, especially for budding artists and little crafters in our lives! The paper roll will keep them busy creating for hours on end!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Safety Gear

Tape Measure

Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter

Square

Sander

Kreg Jig

Brad nailer

Lumber

**1 - 3x3 Posts at 8’

1 - 1x3 at 4’

1 - 1x3 at 8’

1 - 1x4 at 4’

1 - 1x4 at8’

1 - 1” Round Dowel Rod at 2'

1/4 sheet of 1/4” plywood

Full sheet of 3/4” plywood

**If 3x3 posts are not available in your area or are too expensive, 1x3 lumber can be face-glued to 2x3 lumber to create posts. Keep in mind that the depth will differ by 1/4” so the aprons need to be adjusted accordingly (longer by 1/2" total).

**Purchase 1 additional 1x3 at 8’ and 1 additional 2x3 at 8' for this step.

Materials

1 1/4” pocket hole screws

1 1/2” screws

1 1/4” spade bit or hole saw

1 1/2” brad nail

Drawer knobs or handles

Wood filler

Sanding Supplies

Wood glue

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 – 3x3 at 22 1/4” (Legs)

1 - 1x4 at 40” (Long Apron)*

2 - 1x4 at 20” (Short Aprons)

4 - 1x4 at 23½” (Table Top Supports)

3 - 1x4 at 4” (Apron Pieces on Drawer End)

1 - 3/4" plywood at 27”x49” (Top)

2 - 1x4 at 14” (Drawer Faces)

4 - 1x3 at 11½” (Drawer Sides)

4 - 1x3 at 13” (Drawer Box Fronts and Backs)

2 - 1/4" plywood 13”x13” (Drawer Bottoms)

** If making your own posts from 1x3 lumber, add ½” the length of these pieces.

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Using the saw of your choice, cut the posts to the length indicated.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the apron pieces as listed above and add pocket holes to each end (sized for 3/4" stock). Two at each end will be sufficient. Also add pocket holes to one long end of each of the shorter aprons to secure the table top. (These will face to the inside.) Attach the aprons flush with the front of the legs using the 1 1/4” pocket hole screws. Don’t forget to use glue for an extra strong joint!

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the paper roll. Use a compass to draw a 1 1/4” radius on one end and cut out with a jig saw. Bore a 1 1/4” hole through each piece. Secure to one end of the table, at the short apron, by screwing it to the apron from the inside. You can also secure it with a brad nailer that shoots 1½” brads.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the top supports and add pocket holes to each end (sized for 3/4" stock). Also add pocket holes to one long end of each board to secure the table top (sized for 3/4" stock). Cut the 4” apron pieces that will be placed next to the drawers. Drill pocket holes in only two of these boards, on one end only so that the pieces can be mounted to the legs. You will build one “U” shaped box and two “L” shaped boxes. Space the supports on the long aprons as indicated and secure with glue/screws. The drawer slide hardware will be mounted on the lower end of these supports in each drawer opening.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut and assemble the pieces for the drawer boxes. Attach 1/4” plywood to the bottom and secure with glue and brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware to the boxes but DO NOT attach the drawer faces until you have the drawers installed.
A quick and accurate way to line the faces up is to pre-drill the holes for the knobs or handles, line up the drawer face so it fits in the opening and put a screw through the holes into the drawer box. Pull the drawer out and fasten the face to the box from the inside. Finish drilling out the knob/handle holes.

Step 5
Step 6

A view of how the drawer will look when the front is added. DO NOT add the drawer faces until the drawer is installed! See the previous step.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the table top to the measurements indicated. The top will hang over the table by 1” on each long side and 2” on each short side. Secure to table frame using 1 1/4” pocket hole screws through pocket holes drilled on long sides of 20” aprons and supports. Remove one drawer at a time while attaching the top to keep the openings square.
Add nail-on furniture glides to bottom of legs, if desired. I’ve also used adjustable glides on my tables.
To finish the edges of the tabletop, use iron-on edge banding or sand the edges and leave them exposed.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability..
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly on the legs and aprons, and brush-on poly for the top for added durability.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

I'm so excited to introduce a new collection and another new contributor here at TDC! Cher-Ann is going to be joining us and sharing her amazing building and furniture design talents with us! We shared her Flat File Build yesterday (click here to view that beauty) and first on her list of contributed plans is the Kenwood Collection Inspired by the Restoration Hardware collection of a similar name, and this absolutely fabulous bunk bed project! Please take a minute to visit her site, it's brand new and will definitely grow into something super fabulous! I hope you give her such a warm welcome and that you show her some love because we already have at least 5 new project plans in the works thanks to her! Yahoo!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Safety Gear Tape Measure Drill Saw Kreg Jig

Lumber

4 - 2x6 at 8' 3 - 2x6 at 6' 2 - 2x4 at 6' 2 - 2x3 at 6' 2 - 2x2 at 8' 26 - 1x4 at 8' 2 - 1x3 at 8' 1 - 7/8" Round Dowel at 2'

Materials

2 1/2" pocket hole screws 1 1/4" pocket hole screws 2" Wood Screws 1 1/4" Wood Screws Wood Glue Wood Filler Sanding Supplies Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 - 2x6 at 38 1/4" Lower Legs 4 - 2x6 at 30 1/4" Upper Legs 4 - 2x6 at 76" Bed Rails 4 - 2x6 at 33 1/2" Head/Foot Bottom Board 4 - 2x4 at 33 1/2" Head/Foot Top Board 4 - 2x3 at 44 1/2" Upper and Lower Head/Foot Top 4 - 2x2 at 76" Bed Cleats 4 - 1x4 at 18 1/2" Short/Long Rail Guard Legs 2 - 1x4 at 69" Long Rail Rails 2 - 1x4 at 51" Short Rail Rails 2 - 1x4 at 45 1/4" Ladder Rails 4 - 1x4 at 16 1/2" Ladder Rungs 26 - 1x4 at 13 1/4" Upper Head/Foot Slats 26 - 1x4 at 21 1/4" Lower Head/Foot Slats 22 - 1x4 at 39" Bed Slats 26 - 1x3 at 6" Rail Bars 4 - 7/8" Round Dowel at 5" - Dowels

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Frame out the Head and Foot Boards: You will need 2 of each pictured here. Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to secure.

Step 1
Step 2

Secure the Slats for one side of Each Head/Foot Board: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. This first round of slats will sit flush with the Legs and Rails on one side of the Head/Foot Boards, leaving space on the other side for the remaining slats. You will ultimately end up with 2 rows of slats here that stagger.

Step 2
Step 3

Tack on the Top Boards: Use 2" Wood Screws and Glue to secure the top boards to each Head/Foot Board for both the upper and lower units. Be sure to countersink these screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Fasten the Remaining Slats in Place: These will stagger in comparison to the slats you have already fastened in place and to secure you will use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 4
Step 5

Create the Bed Rails and Then Secure: The Bed Rails will be 2x6's with 2x2 cleats fastened along the bottom edges. Secure in place using 2" wood screws and glue, and be sure both pieces sit flush on the bottom edge. To fasten the Bed Rails to the Head/Foot Boards use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to secure. The bottom edge of the Rails will sit 8" up from the bottom of the legs and will sit flush with the bottom boards on the Head/Foot boards.

Step 5
Step 6

Tack down your Slats: Use 1 1/4" wood screws and glue to fasten the supporting slats to the cleats. This will act as a box spring of sorts for your mattresses, so you won't be needing box springs for this project.

Step 6
Step 7

Add the Long Guard Rail to the Top Bunk Unit (the one with shorter head/foot boards): Build the Guard Rail using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. You will place your pocket holes in the horizontal Rails, fastening them to the Vertical Legs of the unit, and also in the Slats fastening them to the Horizontal Rails. Then fasten the Guard Rail Unit to the Bed by securing it to the Bed Rails and to the Head/Foot Board. Use your 2" wood screws and glue to secure to the Rail and your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the Head/Foot Boards

Step 7
Step 8

Add the Short Guard Rail to the Top Bunk Unit (the one with shorter head/foot boards): Build the Guard Rail using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. You will place your pocket holes in the horizontal Rails, fastening them to the Vertical Legs of the unit, and also in the Slats fastening them to the Horizontal Rails. Then fasten the Guard Rail Unit to the Bed by securing it to the Bed Rails and to the Foot Board. Use your 2" wood screws and glue to secure to the Rail and your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the Foot Board.

Step 8
Step 9

Stack the Units: To do this you will need to bore a hole in the Top of the Bottom Unit Legs and in the Bottom of the Top Unit Legs that is 1" in diameter and 2 1/2" deep. Set your dowels into the bottom unit hole, then lift (carefully) the Top unit on top of the bottom unit and set onto the dowels that are sticking out. This is how you keep them stacked, but note that you can, at any time, un-stack them and use them as 2 individual beds.

Step 9
Step 10
Build the Ladder: Note that the outer corners of the ladder are angled for safety. You can use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Secure the Ladder to the Bunk in the same manner by using your Kreg Jig to secure the ladder to both the Top and Bottom Unit Rails. You can also use your 2" wood screws and glue to secure from the inside of the Rails.
Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image
Project Details

As promised... we are back with Part 2 of our Cottage Kitchen! Part 1 Plans can be found here.

This is the perfect compact kitchen for your little cottage chefs... For a more modern version of this kitchen, check out our Gourmet Version!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Tools

Safety Gear

Tape Measure

Drill

Saw

Jig Saw

Kreg Jig - optional but recommended

Nail Gun - optional but recommended

Lumber

1 - 1x8 at 6'

1 - 1x2 at 8' (6' will do but 8' is usually cheaper)

1 - 3/4" square dowel at 2'

1/4 sheet - 1/2" ply at 2' x 4'

1/2 sheet - 1/4" ply

Materials

Door Handle or Drawer Pull for Microwave

1" pocket hole screws - optional only needed if using KJ

1 1/4" pocket hole screws - optional only needed if using KJ

1 1/4" wood screws

2" wood screws - not needed if using KJ

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

5 - 1/2" ply at 7 1/4" x 5 3/4" Plate Rack and Micro Wall

1 - 1/2" ply at 7 3/8" x 5 1/2" Micro Door

1 - 1/2" ply at 2" x 5 3/4" Keypad

2 - 1/2" ply at 7 1/4" x 6 1/4" Side Unit Verticals

2 - 1/2" ply at 10 1/8" x 7 1/4" Side Unit Bottoms

1 - 1/4" ply at 32" x 15 1/2" Back

1 - 1x8 at 32 3/4" Top

2 - 1x8 at 14" Sides

2 - 1x2 at 7 1/4" Base Boards

2 - 1x2 at 7 1/2" Window Trim

2 - 1x2 at 8" Window Trim

2 - 3/4" square dowel at 2 5/8" window trim

1 - 3/4" square dowel at 7 1/2" window trim

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Construct the Hutch Unit: Fasten the Sides to the top if you are using a Kreg Jig, set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a KJ, use 2" wood screws and glue to secure the top to the sides, just be sure to countersink.

Fasten the Base Boards to the Side Panels either with your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue, with your pocket holes placed in the side panels themselves. OR you can use 2" wood screws and glue to secure from underneath into the Side Panels, be sure to center the base boards and countersink if you aren't using a KJ.

Step 1
Step 2

Fasten the Side Units in Place: Use your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" stock and your 1" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten in place or your 1 1/4" wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.

Step 2
Step 3

Fasten the Microwave Keypad in Place, Then the Interior Wall:

If you are going to give this a fancy finish to resemble buttons and such, I recommend doing this prior to fastening in place. Then fasten in place using either your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" stock and your 1" pocket hole screws and glue OR your 1 1/4" wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.

Once the Keypad is in place you can tack on the Wall. Use either your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" stock and your 1" pocket hole screws and glue or your 1 1/4" wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.

Step 3
Step 4

Hang the Microwave Door: Carve the opening out of the door and hang using a hinge for an inset door (just something simple for this). Leave 1/8" all the way around the little door.

Fasten the Plate Racks in Place: you can use your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" stock and 1" pocket hole screws and glue or you can use 1 1/4" wood screws and glue, be sure to countersink. Given the proximity of these, it may be easier to simply use wood screws.

The plate racks should be spaced 1 5/8" apart.

Step 4
Step 5

Fasten the Back in Place: Carve out the Window Opening as shown below, and then tack on the back using 1 1/4" wood screws. The back will overhang the hutch bottom by 3/4", allowing you to secure it to the Base Unit of the kitchen as well.

Step 5
Step 6

Tack on the Window Trim: I would probably just glue these in place, they aren't structural and so should be just fine.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image
Project Details

This project is so adorable, I can't wait to see whose kiddos get this gift from Santa... As promised, these are the cottage mods for the Gourmet Kitchen (plans for that are here) and will follow the same building process with a few exceptions. 

Plans for Part 2, the hutch can be found here.

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Tools
  • Safety Gear
  • Tape Measure
  • Drill
  • Saw
  • Jig Saw
  • Kreg Jig - optional but recommended
  • Nail Gun - optional but recommended
Lumber
  • 2 - 1x12 at 8'
  • 3 - 1x2 at 8'
  • 1 - 1x3 at 6'
  • 1 - 1x4 at 6'
  • 1/4 sheet of 1/4" bead board
Materials
  • 3 - Drawer Pulls in various sizes for the oven door, and top and bottom cabinets.
  • Small Sink and Faucet
  • 2 - Stove burners or grates
  • 2 - oven knobs
  • 6 Hinges
  • 2" wood screws - not necessary if using Kreg Jig
  • 1 1/4" pocket hole screws
  • 1 1/4" finish nails
  • Wood Glue
  • Wood Filler
Cut List
  • 1 - 1x12 at 33 1/2" Top
  • 2 - 1x12 at 24" Sides
  • 2 - 1x12 at 19" Center Dividers
  • 1 - 1x12 at 32" Bottom
  • 2 - 1x12 at 10 1/4" Outside Shelves
  • 1 - 1x12 at 10" Center Shelf
  • 1 - 1x2 at 33 1/2" Top Trim
  • 6 - 1x2 at 8 3/4" Doors
  • 2 - 1x2 at 13 1/2" Oven Door
  • 2 - 1x2 at 6 1/8" Top Cab Door
  • 2 - 1x2 at 10 3/4" Lower Cab Door
  • 1 - 1x3 at 33 1/2" Upper Facing
  • 1 - 1x4 at 11 3/4" Oven Knob Facing
  • 1 - 1x4 at 32" Footer Trim
  • 1 - 1/4" ply at 11 1/4" x 9 1/4" Oven Facing
  • 1 - 1/4" ply at 4 1/8" x 9 3/4" Top Cab Door
  • 1 - 1/4" ply at 8 3/4" x 9 3/4" Lower Cab Door
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build the Base Unit: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to build the box as shown below. If you aren't using a Kreg Jig you can use 2" wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink. Mark out your sink hole and carve out using your jig saw so that you can set your sink into the hole.

Step 1
Step 2

Add the Shelves: The outside shelves are the same size, but all 3 shelves are in different locations. Fasten them in place using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a KJ you can use your 2" wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.

Step 2
Step 3

Add the Facing and Footer: Use your 1 1/4" finish nails and glue to tack on the upper and oven knob facing directly to the base unit and from the outside of the sides to attach the footer underneath the bottom board of the base unit. You will want to carve the footer with a curvy design that suits your taste. This is flexible and you can curve or angle as you please. I have provided the dimensions for my design below.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Construct the Doors: You will build all 3 doors by constructing the face frames for each using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. To construct a face frame you will place your pocket holes in the rails (horizontal pieces) and fasten them to the stiles (vertical). For the Cabinet Doors, you will then glue on the backing from the back side of the face frames and they will sit with 1/2" overhang all the way around the opening for the Upper and Lower Cabinet Doors. I recommend 1/4" thick beadboard for the cabinets on the right. To hang your doors, simply allow for gaps as indicated below and attach using simple hinges for overlay cabinet doors. The oven door will need the hinges on the bottom (obviously) and the cabinet doors should have the hinges on the outside edge.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut and Carve the Oven Door Facing and Tack onto the Oven Door using glue. You can paint this piece in a silver metallic finish to get a truly gourmet look!

Step 5
Step 6

Add the trim pieces shown below: Use glue and your 1 1/4" finish nails

Step 6
Step 7

Now it's time to add your fun hardware! You can purchase replacement parts for ovens, stoves, and sinks at your local hardware store and these are perfect for little play parts. I recommend creating a painted section to sit underneath the stove burners and for the facing underneath where the knobs will sit. This will give your piece that fabulous cottage kitchen look!

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image
Project Details

As promised... we are back with Part 2 of our Gourmet Kitchen! Part 1 Plans can be found here.

This is the perfect compact kitchen for your little gourmet chefs... I will be posting Cottage Style Kitchen modifications next so stay tuned for a more girlish version!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Safety Gear

Tape Measure

Drill

Saw

Jig Saw

Kreg Jig - optional but recommended

Nail Gun - optional but recommended

Lumber

1 - 1x8 at 6'

1 - 1x2 at 8' (6' will do but 8' is usually cheaper)

1/4 sheet - 1/2" ply at 2' x 4'

1/2 sheet - 1/4" ply

Materials

Door Handle or Drawer Pull for Microwave

1" pocket hole screws - optional only needed if using KJ

1 1/4" pocket hole screws - optional only needed if using KJ

1 1/4" wood screws

2" wood screws - not needed if using KJ

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

5 - 1/2" ply at 7 1/4" x 5 3/4" Plate Rack and Micro Wall

1 - 1/2" ply at 7 3/8" x 5 1/2" Micro Door

1 - 1/2" ply at 2" x 5 3/4" Keypad

2 - 1/2" ply at 7 1/4" x 6 1/4" Side Unit Verticals

2 - 1/2" ply at 10 1/8" x 7 1/4" Side Unit Bottoms

1 - 1/4" ply at 32" x 15 1/2" Back

1 - 1x8 at 32 3/4" Top

2 - 1x8 at 14" Sides

2 - 1x2 at 7 1/4" Base Boards

2 - 1x2 at 7 1/2" Window Trim

2 - 1x2 at 8" Window Trim

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Construct the Hutch Unit: Fasten the Sides to the top if you are using a Kreg Jig, set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a KJ, use 2" wood screws and glue to secure the top to the sides, just be sure to countersink.

Fasten the Base Boards to the Side Panels either with your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue, with your pocket holes placed in the side panels themselves. OR you can use 2" wood screws and glue to secure from underneath into the Side Panels, be sure to center the base boards and countersink if you aren't using a KJ.

Step 1
Step 2

Fasten the Side Units in Place: Use your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" stock and your 1" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten in place or your 1 1/4" wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.

Step 2
Step 3

Fasten the Microwave Keypad in Place, Then the Interior Wall:

If you are going to give this a fancy finish to resemble buttons and such, I recommend doing this prior to fastening in place. Then fasten in place using either your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" stock and your 1" pocket hole screws and glue OR your 1 1/4" wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.

Once the Keypad is in place you can tack on the Wall. Use either your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" stock and your 1" pocket hole screws and glue or your 1 1/4" wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Hang the Microwave Door: Carve the opening out of the door and hang using a hinge for an inset door (just something simple for this). Leave 1/8" all the way around the little door.

Fasten the Plate Racks in Place: you can use your Kreg Jig set for 1/2" stock and 1" pocket hole screws and glue or you can use 1 1/4" wood screws and glue, be sure to countersink. Given the proximity of these, it may be easier to simply use wood screws.

The plate racks should be spaced 1 5/8" apart.

Step 4
Step 5

Fasten the Back in Place: Carve out the Window Opening as shown below, and then tack on the back using 1 1/4" wood screws. The back will overhang the hutch bottom by 3/4", allowing you to secure it to the Base Unit of the kitchen as well.

Step 5
Step 6

Tack on the Window Trim: I would probably just glue these in place, they aren't structural and so should be just fine.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image
Project Details

This is inspired by perhaps one of the cutest play kitchens I have seen and I am thankful that this was submitted as a project request! You guys have better eyes and ears than I at times and I'm glad when you share something fabulous with me!

We will be covering 2 styles for this play kitchen: the gourmet and the cottage kitchen. Each will have 2 sections, a base and a hutch with storage and a microwave, perhaps even a few accessories if I'm feeling particularly feisty!

Each style will be generally the same in construction and will only differ in how they are trimmed out.

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Safety Gear

Tape Measure

Drill

Saw

Jig Saw

Kreg Jig - optional but recommended

Nail Gun - optional but recommended

Lumber

2 - 1x12 at 8'

3 - 1x2 at 8'

1 - 1x3 at 6'

1 - 1x4 at 6'

1 1/4 sheet of 1/4" ply

Materials

3 - Drawer Pulls in various sizes for the oven door, and top and bottom cabinets.

Small Sink and Faucet

2 - Stove burners or grates

2 - oven knobs

6 Hinges

2" wood screws - not necessary if using Kreg Jig

1 1/4" pocket hole screws

1 1/4" finish nails

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Cut List

1 - 1x12 at 33 1/2" Top

2 - 1x12 at 24" Sides

2 - 1x12 at 19" Center Dividers

1 - 1x12 at 32" Bottom

2 - 1x12 at 10 1/4" Outside Shelves

1 - 1x12 at 10" Center Shelf

1 - 1x2 at 33 1/2" Top Trim

1 - 1x2 at 35" Bottom Trim

2 - 1x2 at 12" Bottom Trim

6 - 1x2 at 8 3/4" Doors

2 - 1x2 at 13 1/2" Oven Door

2 - 1x2 at 6 1/8" Top Cab Door

2 - 1x2 at 10 3/4" Lower Cab Door

1 - 1x3 at 33 1/2" Upper Facing

1 - 1x4 at 11 3/4" Oven Knob Facing

1 - 1x4 at 32" Footer Trim

1 - 1/4" ply at 11 1/4" x 9 1/4" Oven Facing

1 - 1/4" ply at 4 1/8" x 9 3/4" Top Cab Door

1 - 1/4" ply at 8 3/4" x 9 3/4" Lower Cab Door

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build the Base Unit: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to build the box as shown below. If you aren't using a Kreg Jig you can use 2" wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.

Mark out your sink hole and carve out using your jig saw so that you can set your sink into the hole.

Step 1
Step 2

Add the Shelves: The outside shelves are the same size, but all 3 shelves are in different locations. Fasten them in place using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren't using a KJ you can use your 2" wood screws and glue, just be sure to countersink.

Step 2
Step 3

Add the Facing and Footer: Use your 1 1/4" finish nails and glue to tack on the upper and oven knob facing directly to the base unit and from the outside of the sides to attach the footer underneath the bottom board of the base unit.

If you want to give this a truly gourmet look, you might consider painting the Oven Knob Facing in a metallic silver (typically comes in a spray paint can) prior to attaching it (since you will likely have to spray it.

Step 3
Step 4

Construct the Doors: You will build all 3 doors by constructing the face frames for each using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

To construct a face frame you will place your pocket holes in the rails (horizontal pieces) and fasten them to the stiles (vertical). For the Cabinet Doors, you will then glue on the backing from the back side of the face frames and they will sit with 1/2" overhang all the way around the opening for the Upper and Lower Cabinet Doors.

To hang your doors, simply allow for gaps as indicated below and attach using simple hinges for overlay cabinet doors.

The oven door will need the hinges on the bottom (obviously) and the cabinet doors should have the hinges on the outside edge.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut and Carve the Oven Door Facing and Tack onto the Oven Door using glue. You can paint this piece in a silver metallic finish to get a truly gourmet look!

Step 5
Step 6

Add the trim pieces shown below: Use glue and your 1 1/4" finish nails.

Step 6
Step 7

Now it's time to add your fun hardware! You can purchase replacement parts for ovens, stoves, and sinks at your local hardware store and these are perfect for little play parts. I recommend creating a painted section to sit underneath the stove burners and for the facing underneath where the knobs will sit. This will give your piece that fabulous gourmet kitchen look!

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image
Project Details

A very simple build, and a wonderful new media collection for us to begin, this piece will look smashing aside the Shelf Unit (plans for that found here)!

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Parsons Media Tower
Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Safety Gear

Tape Measure

Drill

Saw - for cutting plywood

Kreg Jig

Lumber

1 Sheet of 3/4" Ply

3 - 2x2 at 8'

1 - 1x2 at 8'

Materials

1 1/4" Wood Screws

1 1/4" Pocket Hole Screws

2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws

2 Overlay Hinges

1 Door Handle - optional and inspiration piece does not have one.

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

4 - 2x2 at 3 1/2" Legs

8 - 2x2 at 19" Front and Back Rails

2 - 2x2 at 17" Lower Side Rails

6 - 2x2 at 14" Upper Side Rails

2 - 1x2 at 20 1/2" Front/Back Ledges

2 - 1x2 at 15 1/2" Side Ledges

2 - 3/4" ply at 19 1/4" x 26" Sides

1 - 3/4" ply at 20 1/2" x 26" Back

2 - 3/4" ply at 19 1/4" x 22" Top and Bottom Cabinet

1 - 3/4" ply at 22" x 27 1/2" Door

3 - 3/4" ply at 14" x 19" Shelves

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Build the Bottom Leg Unit: Fasten the Rails to the Legs using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 1
Step 2

Add the Ledges: Using 1 1/4" Screws and glue attach the ledges as shown below. They will be set in 3/4" from the outside edge and should overhang the inside edge by 3/4".

Step 2
Step 3

Construct the Cabinet Box: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the back to the sides and bottom, and the sides to the bottom.

You will need to create your pocket holes along the top edges of the back and sides as well so you can attach to the Upper Unit in a later step.

Once you have constructed the 4 sided box, attach it to the ledge by securing with your 1 1/4" screws and glue from underneath on the ledge overhang.

Step 3
Step 4

Construct the Top Unit with Side Panels: Using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue attach the Side Rails to the Upper Legs. Once you have the side Rails connected, attach the Cabinet Top to the Upper Legs leaving a 2 1/4" overhang on the front side and allowing the Cabinet Top to sit flush with the Side Panels on the sides and back. To attach the Cabinet Top you can use either 1 1/4" wood screws and glue or you can attach the Side Panels to the Top using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Do not attach this to the Cabinet Box yet. Wait until after you secure the shelves and front and back rails.

Step 4
Step 5

Add the Shelves: Fasten the Shelf to the Front and Back Rails using your Kreg Jig Set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue. Then attach the Shelf Units to the Side Panels using your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" stock and your 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue.

Once you attach these, you can flip the Upper Unit over and attach it to the Cabinet Box using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock with pocket holes placed in the Cabinet Box Back and Sides, and your 1 1/4" pocket holes screws and glue.

Step 5
Step 6

Hang your Door: you can use any hinge you like and feel comfortable with that is for an overlay door.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

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Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by RyTurner / The Design Confidential
Project Image
Project Details

I love these fabulous yet functional play shelves that act as both shelving as well as a bit of fun for your firefighter boys at heart!

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

Safety Gear

Tape Measure

Drill

Kreg Jig - optional

Saw

Jig Saw

Nail Gun - optional

Lumber

1 - 1x6 at 6'

1 - 1x3 at 6'

1 - 1x2 at 6'

1 - 3/4" square dowel at 3'

1/2 sheet of 1/4" ply

1 sheets of 3/4" ply

Materials

1 1/4" pocket hole screws - if using KJ

2" wood screws - if not using KG

1 1/4" Finish Nails

Wood Glue

Wood Filler

Sanding Supplies

Finishing Supplies

Cut List

1 - 1x6 at 28" Top Trim

2 - 1x6 at 13 3/4" Top Trim Sides

1 - 1x3 at 28" Bottom Trim

2 - 1x3 at 13 3/4" Bottom Trim Sides

2 - 1x2 at 25" Shelf Trim

6 - 3/4" Square Dowel at 6" Window Trim

1 - 1/4" ply at 25" x 43 1/4" Back

2 - 3/4" ply at 13" x 25" Shelves

1 - 3/4" ply at 13 1/2" x 25" Bottom Shelf

1 - 3/4" ply at 13 3/4" x 26 1/2" Top

2 - 3/4" ply at 13 3/4" x 43 1/4" Sides

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!

Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.

Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut your Sides to size and carve out the windows: Using a jig saw carve out the window openings as shown in the image. Use your drill to create a few pilot holes in the window area to allow you to easily get your jig saw blade into place. You will need 2 of these.

Step 1
Step 2

Fasten the Top and Bottom in place: Using your 2" Finish Nails and glue tack on the top. Using your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue, fasten your bottom shelf in place. It will need to be set back 1/4" on the back side.

Step 2
Step 3

Fasten the Shelves in Place: Use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4" stock and your 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and glue.

Step 3
Step 4

Tack on the Back: Use 1 1/4" finish nails and glue to fasten in place.

Step 4
Step 5

Attach the Trim: Using 1 1/4" finish nails and glue, tack on the various trim pieces as shown below.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also:

Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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