Jul
24
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Francine Dining Chair, the materials listed are to construct ONE chair. Last week we covered the matching bench which pairs perfectly with this chair and the table (coming soon)... yahoo... Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

Under $25

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, if desired
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 2x4 at 42” – Back Legs
  • 7 – 1x3 at 16” – Back Slats & Stretcher, Front Stretcher
  • 2 – 2x2 at 17-1/4” – Front Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17-1/2” – Side Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 20-1/2” – Seat
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the 2x4 pieces for the back legs. Draw the back legs on the board as shown with the center 6-1/2” portion remaining straight. Cut one leg out using a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Trace this leg onto the other board and cut it out as well. Clamp the legs together and “gang sand” them so they will be virtually identical!

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back slats as well as the front and back stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Following the curve of the upper back legs and with 2” spacing between them, secure the slats using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the back stretcher on the legs as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the front legs. Draw the angle as shown, then cut using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Secure the front stretcher to the legs (with the outside face flush with the outside face of the legs – the angle will face in) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end.  Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers. Cut the angle as shown, then drill pocket holes in each end. Note that there will be a right and a left piece. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the piece for the seat and cut the notches as shown. Apply edge banding, if desired. Position on the chair frame, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
22
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Abigail Desk, complete with fold down extension!! Yahoo, right? Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill             
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 – full sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge Banding
  • 6 small cabinet pulls
  • 1 larger cabinet pull
  • 1 set of 14” drawer slides
  • 1 set of hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 14-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 5-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 4 – 1x2 at 25” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 25” – Back Panel
  • 2 – 1x2 at 5-1/2” – Drawer Spacers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Spacers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 29” – Desk Top
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 7-3/4” – Hutch Dividers
  • 3 - ¾” plywood at 7-3/4” x 8” – Hutch Shelves
  • 3 – ½” plywood at 7-3/4” x 8” – Hutch Shelves
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 7-1/4” x 27” – Hutch Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/2” x 28” – Hutch Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 21” – Large Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 12-1/2”- Large Drawer Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 5” x 22-1/2” – Large Drawer Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/4” x 23-1/4” – Large Drawer Front
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 6-1/4” – Small Drawer Bottoms
  • 12 – ¾” plywood at 2-7/8” x 6-1/4” – Small Drawer Sides
  • 12 – ¾” plywood at 2-7/8” x 7-3/4” – Small Drawer Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/2” x 29” - Extension
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the frame pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face away from the panel opening (and won’t have to be filled). Insert the panel then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making the back side of the panel flush with the inside of the frame.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the back frame and back panel. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the frame pieces to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they face away from the panel opening (and won’t have to be filled). Insert the panel then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws making the back side of the panel flush with the inside of the frame.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws orienting the pocket holes away from the opening.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers. Attach the vertical spacers to the legs inside the front stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the horizontal spacers inside the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The front and sides will overlap by ½”.

Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the hutch dividers and drill pocket holes in the bottom edge of each piece. Secure to the desk top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the hutch shelves. The ¾” shelves will be secured to the desk using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in one side only of each ½” shelf. Secure the shelves one at a time by securing the end with the pocket holes into the divider first, then securing the other side with 1-1/4” brad nails until all three shelves have been installed.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the hutch back and secure as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the hutch top and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The front and sides will overlap by ½”.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the larger drawer. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer sides, as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble the drawer as shown, then install the drawer sides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer slides, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Cut the piece for the drawer front and drill the holes for the position of the cabinet pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. Finish drilling the holes for the cabinet pull, then install the pull.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the small drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer sides, as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble the drawer as shown. They should fit in the opening with a 1/8” gap at the sides and top.

Step 9
Step 9
Step 10

Cut the piece for the extension. Position on the desk top, then install the hinges.

Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
11
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Chloe Coffee Table, by special reader request! If you have a request for a special set of plans, please feel free to post it here with a link! You will need a member account to do this, but I have opened registration so you no longer need my permission to have your account approved, yay!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at6’
  • 2  sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 17-1/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x4 at 21-13/16” – End Aprons
  • 2 – 1x4 at 51-13/16” – Side Aprons
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-9/16” x 52-9/16” – Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 26” x 56” – Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.  Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the curves using a jigsaw or a bandsaw, then clamp the pieces together and sand at once which makes them practically identical! 

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the aprons and cut 45 degree miters in each end. To drill the pocket holes, clamp a Kreg jig (preferably a “mini”) on the end of the board with the miter facing up and drill the pocket holes for ¾” material. Repeat this step for each end of all four aprons. Position the aprons ½” back from the front face of the legs then secure using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the piece for the shelf. Cut the angle using a jigsaw and drill pocket holes as shown. Position the shelf on the leg approximately 3-1/4” up from the floor then secure using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the piece for the top. Place a soup can at the corner to draw the radius for the table, then cut using a jigsaw. Position the top so that 1” overhangs the aprons then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
08
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Campaign Bookshelf! I hope you all had a fabulous holiday weekend, if you live here in the US, and for all the rest of you, a fabulous weekend anyhow! I will be posting a bit sporadically this week as I spend some time with family, but you know I won't miss posting plans! yahoo.. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 28-1/2” – Base
  • 2 – 1x3 (ripped to 1-3/4” wide) at 13” – Base Frame
  • 2 – 1x3 (ripped to 1-3/4” wide) at 28-1/2” – Base Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 68-3/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 11-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 25-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 35-1/2” – X
  • 1 – 1x2 at 35-13/16” – X
  • 1 – 1x2 at 71-7/8” – X
  • 16 – 1x2 at 13-3/4” – Shelf Supports
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 25-1/2” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/4” x 30” – Top
  • 2 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Trim
  • 1 – 1x3 at 30” – Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the base and the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter base pieces. Assemble the base frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the base to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of each leg. Secure the legs to the corner of the base using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the X. Cut the angles as shown noting that they are NOT cut at 45 degrees! Set the Kreg jig for ¾”material and drill pocket holes in each piece as shown. Assemble using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the shelves. Secure to the supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Attach the remaining supports over the top of the shelves as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. Position so that ¾” overhangs the front and sides. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the trim. Secure the sides first using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails or 1-1/4” countersunk screws, then secure the front trim piece.

Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
03
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Indoor Outdoo Antigua Round Table. Technically inspired by an outdoor design, I personally think it would be smashing in any eat in area inside too! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1-1/2” wide edge banding
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 1 – 4x4 post at 28-1/2” – Center Post
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 48” in diameter – Table Top
  • 4 – 2x4 at 18” – Feet
  • 4 – 2x3 at 27” – Supports
  • 8 – 2x2 at 19-13/16” – Angled Supports
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the center post and the table top. Spread glue on one piece of the plywood for the top and position the second piece on it. Wiggle the second piece to create suction, then clamp and secure the pieces using 1-1/4” brad nails. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in two opposing sides of one end of the post. Center on the table top then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes in each side.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the feet and drill pocket holes in one end of each piece. Secure to the bottom of the post with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the 2x3 supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Position on the feet as shown then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Secure the supports to the underside of the table top also.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the angled supports. Cut the angles as shown in the drawings noting that they are NOT cut at 45 degrees. Secure the supports to the underside of the table, the center post, and the feet using glue and 2-1/2” toenailed screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jun
27
2013
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Large Belvedere Indoor Outdoor Sofa
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Indoor Outdoor Belvedere Large Sofa. I love anything that even moderately resembles outdoor furniture and I love the idea of using those pieces inside as well. I mean, why not? It's not everyday we can build our own sofa, yet when we get to focus on outdoor pieces, it's no problem. Why not use these beauties for either? With some comfy cushions, this baby will go the distance, don't you think? I say yes! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 9 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 6 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 1x2 at 4-1/4” – Side Feet
  • 4 – 1x2 at 5” – Front & Back Feet
  • 2 – 1x8 at 36-1/2” – Side Base Frame
  • 2 – 1x8 at 78” – Side Base Frame
  • 4 – 1x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 36-1/2” – Cleats
  • 1 – 1x2 at 76-1/2” – Back Frame Support
  • 4 – 1x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 22-3/4” – Back Frame
  • 12 – 1x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 19-1/2” – Back Slats
  • 8 – 1x4 at 76-1/2” – Seat Slats
  • 1 – 1x4 (ripped to 2-1/4” wide) at 76-1/2” – Front Seat Slat
  • 2 – 1x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 36-5/8” – Arms
  • 2 – 1x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 9-1/4” - Arms
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the feet and the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each foot, as well as each end of the side base frame pieces. Attach the longer feet to each end of the front and back frame pieces, and the shorter pieces to the side frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the cleats and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the cleats so they are ¾” down from the top edge of the frame, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the piece for the back frame support. Rip a 5 degree bevel along one edge for the angle of the back. Position as shown (with the bevel facing out, shorter area on top) then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the support into the cleats.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the back frame. Cut a 5 degree bevel in the bottom of each vertical piece. Drill pocket holes in the front side of the beveled end. Also drill pocket holes in each end of the slat pieces. Position the slats as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the back frame on the cleats with the back edge resting against the support. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the frame legs into the cleats, then insert a couple of 2-1/2” screws per leg through the front into the support.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the pieces for the seat slats. Rip a 5 degree bevel in one edge of one of the slat pieces. This piece will sit flush against the back to help support it in place. Secure this piece to the cleats using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Secure the remaining slats with ½” spacing between them and with the narrow slat at the very front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the arms. Cut the notch in one end of each longer arm piece using a jigsaw or bandsaw. Drill pocket holes as shown. Also drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter arm pieces. Assemble in an “L” shape, noting that there will be a left and a right then secure to the sofa using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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