• Essentials from Target for The Design Confidential Feeling Fall // Essentials for Creating a Cozy Mantel
  • Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
  • Family Room Sneak Peek / The Design Confidential in Collaboration with Joss and Main for a Curators Collection Sale Story Interview
  • Hammock and Lounging Area for the Home Depot Style Challenge Outdoor Games Edition
  • DIY Faux Watercolor Wallpaper Wall Treatment with Paint
  • Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Tri Trestle Table
  • DIY Home Decor // How To Make Your Own Removable Wallpaper
Dec
06
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Reclaimed Timber Slat Desk. I absolutely love our Reclaimed Timber Collection and I can't wait to see who builds this first! Do you remember this reader showcase? Oh it's just so very good! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 19 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 27 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 1 half sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • ¼” glass or Plexiglas for the top
Materials
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • ½” diameter All-Thread  approximately 2’ long plus two nuts
  • Magnetic catch for the door
  • Paste Wax
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x6 (ripped to 3-3/4” wide) at 63” – Top End Slats
  • 19 – 1x4 at 63” – Top Slats
  • 115 – 1x4 at 3-1/2” – Blocks (shown in Dark Blue in the drawings)
  • 14 - 1x4 at 30” (with a ½” hole drilled at one end)  - Side Slats (shown in Lt. Blue in the drawings)
  • 40 – 1x4 at 30” – Slats (Shown in Lt. Blue in the drawings)
  • 15 – 1x4 at 23-7/8” (with a ½” hole drilled at one end) – Door Slats (shown in Lavender in the drawings)
  • 14 – 1x4 at 1-3/4” – Door Blocks (shown in Orange in the drawings)
  • 14 – 1x4 at 27-1/2” – Back Slats (shown in Green in the drawings)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 27-1/2” x 30” – Shelf & Bottom
  • 1 – ½” All-Thread at 22-1/4”
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 27-3/8” x 35-1/2” - Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Pieces should be sanded and finished prior to assembly. Apply a coat of paste wax to the boards with the hole drilled in the end to allow for the door to slide easily. The desk will be assembled from the top down. Each piece will be secured with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails except the areas with the holes.

 

Cut the pieces for the top. The wider 1x4 pieces will be positioned at the ends to hold the glass top in place. Start by layering the blocks on the wider pieces with the bottoms flush. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Lay a 1x4 piece on top, then secure to the blocks using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Continue layering the pieces in this manner until the top is complete.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the slats. Fourteen of the 30” slats will have a hole drilled in one end to allow for the All-Thread for the door. One of these pieces will have a countersunk hole drilled to capture the nut for the All-Thread. Place the nut in the countersunk hole, then secure the piece to the underside of the top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Insert the All-Thread and secure in the nut. Position a 30” slat (without a hole) as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the back slats, the door slats, and the door blocks. The door slats will have a ½” hole drilled at the end. Secure the door blocks to the ends of the door slats using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The back slats will be secured using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, and the door slats will be threaded on the All-Thread piece.

Step 3
Step 4

 Continue layering the pieces as shown – there will be eight back slats (green), eight door slats with blocks (lavender), eight 30” slats on each side (light blue), and eight blocks (dark blue). Cut the piece for the shelf and drill the hole for the All-Thread. Thread the shelf on the All-Thread then secure the shelf in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

 Continue layering the slats – There will be seven back slats (green), seven door slats with blocks (lavender), six 30” slats on each side (light blue), and seven blocks (dark blue).

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill a countersunk hole for the All-Thread. Thread the bottom on the All-Thread, then insert the nut and make it snug (not tight). Secure the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 7

Layer the final 30” slats and blocks on the bottom, as well as what will be the far left side of the desk securing the pieces with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the back. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Install a magnetic catch on the door.

Step 8
Step 9

Secure the glass on the top with beads of silicone at the edges.

Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Nov
22
2013
Project Details

The countdown to the holidays has officially begun and chances are some of you are hosting this year. If so, a buffet or sideboard might be just what you need to help the holidays go a bit more smoothly. Perfect for that extra storage you will need, and a lovely place to set all of your side dishes during your feast! Let a little sawdust fly and help alleviate some of that holiday stress! Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 13 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 4’
  • 4 – 2x4 at 6’
  • 2 – 3x3 posts at 6’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the top
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 2 cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 3x3 posts at 30-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x4 at 12-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 27 – 1x3 at 23-1/2” – Side & Back Slats
  • 4 – 2x4 at 42-1/2” – Front & Back Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/2” x 42-1/2” – Bottom & Shelf
  • 2 – 2x2 (ripped to 1-1/4” wide) at 12-1/2” – Shelf Support
  • 1 – 2x2 (ripped to 1-1/4” wide) at 42-1/2” – Back Shelf Support
  • 1 – 1x2 at 42-1/2” – Front Shelf Support
  • 2 – 1x2 at 12-1/2” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 45-1/2” – Top Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 47-1/2” – Top
  • 4 – 1x3 at 23-1/4” – Door Frame
  • 6 – 1x3 at 16” – Door Frame
  • 14 – 1x3 at 23-1/4” – Door Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 23-1/4” – Door Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the side slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the slats so that the front face is set back ½” from the outside face of the frame. Secure inside the side frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the back slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the slats so that the front face is set back ½” from the outside face of the frame. Secure inside the back frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Nov
19
2013
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: Michaels Low Rise Crib

I finished the crib a couple weeks ago now and I love it! Here are a couple pictures of the final product!

The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: Michaels Low Rise Crib
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: Michaels Low Rise Crib
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase: Michaels Low Rise Crib
Nov
18
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Copenhagen Coffee Table. We have several pieces in the Copenhagen Collection so far, and this is a fabulous addition to the group! The frame can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal for ease of building and is right on trend with that mixed media look that is so popular right now! Not to mention these mixed look pieces blend well into many different styles so mix it up and add something special to your living or family room this year! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’         
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the top
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 16-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 52” – Stretchers
  • 4 – 2x2 at 27” – Stretchers
  • 6 – 1x2 at 28-1/2” – Top Supports & Top Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 55” – Top Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 28-1/2” x 53-1/2” – Top Panel
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and the longer stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the side stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the top supports. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the top panel. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.

Cut the pieces for the top trim and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert the top panel – the outside face will be flush with the outside face of the frame – then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the top so that the trim overhangs the top supports, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 3
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Nov
15
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Prisma Buffet. The prism detailing can either be painted on, stained in place, or fitted using ¼” plywood. Isn't this piece fabulous? Love it... Xx Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” screws
  • 4 sets of Eurpoean hinges
  • 4 cabinet pulls
  • Edge banding, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 12” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 47” – Base Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 15” – Base Frame
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 70” – Top & Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 20” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 68-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/8” x 18-1/2” – Divider
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-3/8” x 33-7/8” – Shelves
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 16-7/8” x 18-1/4” - Doors 
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and base frame. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the bottom and top. Set the top piece aside, and secure the bottom to the base using glue and countersunk 1-1/2” screws through the bottom into the base.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material, and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom of each piece. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

 Position the top so it is flush with the cabinet on all sides. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the upper sides and back.

Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges. Position the piece so it is flush with the back making it approximately 7/8” away from the front edge. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each side edge. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” space at the top, sides, and in between with a ½” space between each pair. Install the European hinges according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions and make any necessary adjustments. Install the cabinet pulls.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Oct
14
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Hudson Nightstand. By special reader request we are expanding upon this fabulous collection we started a long time ago in a far off land... At least it feels that way. It's lovely to bring it back full circle and round out our plans for the gorgesou Hudson Collection! Hope you like... Xx...Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 - quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – ¼” thick x ¾” wide lattice strips at 8’
  • 1 piece of ¾” cove moulding at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • ½” brad nails
  • 1” brad nails
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding, optional
  • 4 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 4 drawer pulls
  • 1 small pull
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x2 at 28-1/2” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 16-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 20” – Side Panels
  • 2 – 2x2 at 21-1/2” – Back Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 21-1/2” – Back Panel
  • 6 – 1x2 at 21-1/2” – Front Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16-1/4” – Surface Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 26” – Top
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 17-3/4” x 21-1/4” – Flat Surface
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 19” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 8 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 8 – 1x3 at 20-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 4-3/8” x 21-1/4” – Drawer Front Base
  • 8 – ¼” x ¾” strips at 21-1/4” – Drawer Front Trim
  • 8 – ¼” x ¾” strips at 2-7/8” – Drawer Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panels. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and the panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Secure to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure to the frame (the back face will be flush with the inside of the frame) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the first one as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the remaining stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the surface supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the vertical stretcher and the back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. The piece will overhang the sides and the front by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the piece for the surface. After finishing, apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom so it will slide smoothly. Insert into the opening.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs, then make any necessary adjustments.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the trim then attach using glue and 1” brad nails. 

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer front bases and the trim. Position the trim on the bases as shown then secure using glue and ½” brad nails.

Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front in the opening) then drive screws through the holes for the pulls into the drawer boxes. Open the drawer then secure the front with countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Make any necessary adjustments then finish drilling the holes for the pulls.

Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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