Aug
22
2013
Project Image

Love this little desk. It now lives in the playroom.

Estimated Cost 

$30

Length of Time 

2 hours 

Modifications 

I used drawer pulls and created an overhanging top.

Lumber Used 

pine

Finishing Technique 

maple stain and varnish

Aug
19
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Provence Beam Benches! Several of you have built benches to match your Provence Beam Dining Tables (plans for those are listed just below), like you see in this Builders Showcase: Provence Beam Dining and Benches, but we never officially posted the plans. Now the rest of you who are interested in having the matching set can do just that without having to hurt your brain with the math involved!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber

For the longer bench:

  • 5 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 10’
  • 3 – 2x6 at 10’

For the shorter bench:

  • 4 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x6 at 6’
Materials
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

For either bench:

  • 4 – 2x4 at 15-7/16” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 11-3/4” – Side Frame Connector
  • 2 – 2x4 at 12-1/2” – Side Stretchers

For the longer bench:

  • 3 – 2x4 at 93” – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 2x4 at 97” – Stretcher
  • 2 – 2x4 at 22-5/8” – Trusses
  • 3 – 2x6 at 120” – Seat

For the shorter bench:

  • 3 – 2x4 at 40” – Seat Supports
  • 1 – 2x4 at 37” – Stretcher
  • 2 – 2x4 at 12-3/16” – Trusses
  • 3 – 2x6 at 60” - Seat
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut a 9 degree bevel in each end (opposite of each other). Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end as indicated in the drawings.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the connector. Secure the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The frames will resemble an “A” shape.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and cut a 9 degree angle in each end. Drill pocket holes in each end as shown. Position as shown (3” up from the floor) then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretchers will be flush with the outside edge of the legs.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the connectors as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The boards will be spaced at approximately ¾”.

Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the piece for the stretcher and drill pocket holes at each end. Position the stretcher so it is centered on the side stretchers, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the trusses and cut the angles in each end as shown. Also, drill pocket holes in each end. Position the trusses so that they are centered on the center seat support as well as centered on the stretcher. Secure to the support with the edge flush with the side of the connector piece. (see the drawing)

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the seat. Lay the boards out on a flat surface and position the seat frame on top of it. There will be a 10” overhang at each side. Secure the frame to the seat boards using countersunk 2-1/2” screws from the underside into the seat boards. Make sure to use plenty of screws to catch all three pieces!

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Aug
16
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Collection Three Drawer Charger Cabinet! That's right my friends, we still have quite a few more plans to post in the Original Office Collection and this three drawer charging unit is quite the fabulous addition to the bunch! Yahoo! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

 

  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber

 

  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials

 

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • 3 sets of 18” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 27-1/4” – Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/8” – Upper Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2”x 16-1/8” – Lower Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 20” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/8” x 24” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 20-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 17-5/8” – Trim
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/8” x 18” – Charger Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 15-1/8” – Charger Drawer Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 15-1/8” – Charger Drawer Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Drawer Bottom
  • 2 – ¾”plywood at 4-9/16” x 17-1/4” – Small Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-9/16” x 14-7/8” – Small Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 5-9/16” x 16-5/8” – Small Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 17-1/4” – Large Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/8” x 14-7/8” – Large Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 11-3/8” x 16-5/8” – Large Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the sides and the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces, as well as the top edge of the sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

 

 Cut the piece for the bottom and position as shown. Secure to the stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

 

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

 

 Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the back and side pieces.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the piece for the trim. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 7

 

Cut the pieces for the charger drawer. Cut the notches in the back piece as shown using a jigsaw. Attach the front and back pieces to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

 

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

 

Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer opening by 3/8” on the sides, and ¼” at the top and bottom.

Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments. 

Step 8
Step 8
Step 8
Step 8
Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Aug
15
2013
Project Image

I stumbled across this build the other day and I had to share it with you guys! I try my best to track incoming links, for those of you with blogs who post about your builds from this site, but I'm not always successful. This time however, I hit the showcase jackpot baby! This build is beautiful, and I hope you show them some love by visiting their site and leaving them sweet comments about their hard work. It definitely paid off! The link to their blog post is just below. Xx... Rayan

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Aug
14
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Reclaimed Timber Side Table!

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 14 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • ½” diameter threaded rod with two nuts, approximately 20-1/4” long
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 32 – 1x3 at 20-1/4” – Sides (14 pieces will have a ½” diameter hole drilled in one end)
  • 44 – 1x3 at 2-1/2” – Top & Sides  
  • 16 – 1x3 at 19” – Top & Base Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 15-1/4” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 20-1/4” – Back
  • 24 – 1x2 at 2-1/2” – Door
  • 13 – 1x3 at 16-3/8” – Door (All will have a ½” diameter hole drilled in one end)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 The table is constructed from the top down. Where indicated, there will be two pieces with a countersunk hole large enough to capture the nuts for the threaded rod which acts as the door hinge. Each piece should be finished before assembly, and the ends with the holes (for the threaded rod) should be coated with paste wax to allow the door to open and close smoothly.

Cut the pieces for the top. Layer the 19” pieces boards and 2-1/2” blocks securing each board and block with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 1
Step 2

 Position two 20-1/4” boards on the top as shown in the drawing. Drill a countersunk hole large enough to capture the nut for the threaded rod and position the board with the hole on the side where the “hinge” will be located.

Step 2
Step 3

 The next layer will consist of the 2-1/2” blocks, as well as the 16-3/8” board for the door. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

The next layer will consist of two 20-1/4” boards (one with the hole at the “hinge” side) and the door spacers. Secure the pieces with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Insert the threaded rod and tighten into the nut.

Step 4
Step 5

 Continue layering the blocks, side boards, door spacers, and door boards, fastening the pieces with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, until all of the door boards have been used.

Layer two 20-1/4” boards, one with a countersunk hole to capture the remaining nut. Fasten the boards in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Insert into the back of the cabinet and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in the two 14” edges. Secure to two of the 19” boards using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the entire piece to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

Layer the final four boards and four blocks then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jul
29
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build the Upper Storage for a Garrity Modular Cubby! We covered the lower unit here, and now we complete this fabulous circle of furniture goodness...

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • Half sheet of ½” plywood
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 37-3/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 37-3/4” x 40-1/4” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 40-1/4” – Bottom
  • 4 – 1x2 at 40-1/4” – Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 40-1/4” – Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 12” – Upper Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-3/4” x 12” – Lower Dividers
  • 6 – ½” plywood at 11-3/4” x 12” – Cubby Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 12” – Cubby Dividers
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 12” x 40-1/4” – Cubby Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 41-3/4” – Top
  • 1 – 1x3 (ripped to 2-1/4” wide) at 41-3/4” – Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides and the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the sides and bottom of the back. Secure the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in the sides and back edge. Secure to the sides and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the stretchers as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the stretchers, sides , and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the pieces to the overall length and width first, then cut the notch using a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes in the top, bottom, and back of the lower dividers, and the bottom and back only of the upper dividers. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the cubby dividers. Cut the notches in each piece as indicated. Assemble as shown and secure with glue. ** It may be easier to stand the vertical pieces in the cabinet first, then slide the shelf in. **

Insert into the cabinet, then secure with a few brad nails through the sides, shelf and bottom.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the trim. Rout a decorative edge at the top, if desired, then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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