Intermediate

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Another project from our Project Request list! If you have a request of your own, simply register (it's free) and post your request in our community pages under Project Requests... we are getting these checked off the list left and right, so get to it, if you have something you are dying to build!

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Crate & Barrel Inspired Hendrix Desk
Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Hacksaw
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
  • 1 – 1x3 at 4’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-3/4” screws
  • 2” screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 5 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 4 – 1”x 3’ Aluminum Tubes
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 11-1/2” x 27-3/4” – Sides
  • 1 – 11-1/2” x 59-1/2” – Middle Divider
  • 2 – 14-1/4” x 18” – Drawer Shelves
  • 6 – 5” x 18” – Upper & Lower Dividers
  • 1 – 18” x 59-1/2” – Shelf
  • 1 – 28” x 63” – Top
  • 2 – 1x3 at 24” – Stretchers
  • 4 – 1” aluminum tubes at 29-3/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 6” x 16” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – 6-1/2” x 30-1/2” – Center Drawer Front
  • 8 – 4” X 15” – Drawer Boxes
  • 10 – 4” x 16” – Drawer Boxes (Sides)
  • 2 – 4” x 29-1/2” – Center Drawer Box
  • 4 – 15” x 16” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 1 – 16” x 29-1/2” – Center Drawer Bottom
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides and the middle divider. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in each end of the divider. Attach to the sides at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the drawer shelves. Drill pocket holes in one short end and one long end of each board as shown in the drawing. Attach to the sides and divider with the bottoms flush using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower dividers. Attach the lower dividers to the drawer shelves as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

It may be easier to install the lower drawer slides before attaching the shelf. Install the slides with the end flush with the front edge of the sides and dividers (the drawer face will overlay the opening).

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes as shown. Install using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Install the upper dividers as indicated. Attach the upper dividers for the center drawer with the pocket holes facing toward the center. Install the remaining drawer slides.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the desk assembly with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The sides of the top will overlap by 1” on each side.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the aluminum tubes to 29-3/4” with a hacksaw. Pre-drill two holes toward the top of the legs to attach to the desk. Pre-drill holes in one side of the legs (the front and back – don’t forget, you will have left and right leg assemblies!) to attach each stretcher.. The stretchers should be located 4” from the floor. Attach the legs to the desk 1” in from the front and back with 1-3/4” screws. Do not over tighten the screws or it will smash the aluminum!

Cut the stretcher pieces. Attach to the legs as shown using 2” screws.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawers and assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottoms with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

For all drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. The shorter drawer fronts will overlap the sides by 1" to cover the legs. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.

Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! 

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

I know there are a lot of parts and pocket holes in this piece but I promise it will be well worth it! The upper and lower drawers are on slides while the middle row of “drawers” are actually just the fronts that are hinged and fold down for media (cable box, receiver, blu-ray or dvd player, etc.) storage. While assembly of this piece may require you to be a contortionist of sorts, the satisfaction of a job well-done is the best end result!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Square
  • Drill
  • Saw – Table Saw and Miter Saw, Jig Saw or Circular Saw
  • Kreg Jig
Lumber
  • 3- 1x2 at 8’
  • 3- 1x3 at 8’
  • 3- 1x4 at 8’
  • 2 - 1x8 at 8’
  • 7- 2x2 at 8’**
  • 1 sht. ¾” plywood
  • ½ sht. ¼” plywood
  • ** If the quality of the 2x2 lumber in your area is not up to standard, you can rip a 2x4 on a table saw to a 2x2. This is not cutting the 2x4 in half… The dimensions of a 2x4 cut in half would be 1-1/2 x 1-3/4. A 2x2s dimensions are 1-1/2 x 1-1/2, so if you set your rip fence for 1-1/2” away from the blade, you will rip the board in half, then run the second piece through the saw again to cut it to size.

 

Materials
  • 2 ½” pocket screws
  • 1 ¼” pocket screws
  • 1 ¼” regular screws
  • 3 pr. inset hinges <a href="http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1273&filter=inset%20hinges " target="_blank">See Here</a>
  • (or 3 pr. concealed hinges)
  • 3 cabinet clips (to keep the doors closed)
  • 6 lid stops (3 – right, 3 – left) <a href="http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1643&filter=lid%20support " target="_blank">See Here</a>
  • 3 sets 14” drawer slides
  • 15 – drawer pulls
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 55” – Top of Front/Back Frames
  • 8 – 2x2 at 26-1/2” – Frame Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 16” – Horizontal Frame Pieces
  • 8 – 2x2 at 16-1/2” – Horizontal Frame Pieces
  • 10 – 1x2 at 15” – Top Supports & Side Supports
  • 10 – 2x2 at 15” – Supports
  • 1 – 15’”x 52” of ¾” plywood – Top
  • 2 – 15” x 22” of ¾” plywood – Sides
  • 1 – 16” x 22” of ¾” plywood – Center Back
  • 2 – 16-1/2” x 22” of ¾” plywood – Side Back
  • 1 – 15” x 16” of ¾” plywood – Center Shelf
  • 2 – 15” x 16-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Side Shelves
  • 4 – 1x3 at 15-1/2” – Small Drawer Boxes Front /Back
  • 2 – 1x3 at 15” – Small Center Drawer Box Front/Back
  • 6 – 1x3 at 12-1/2” – Small Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x8 at 15-1/2” – Large Drawer Boxes Front/Back
  • 2 – 1x8 at 15” – Large Center Drawer Box Front/Back
  • 6 – 1x8 at 12-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 14” x 15-1/2” of ¼” plywood – Drawer Bottoms
  • 3 – 14” x 15” of ¼” plywood – Center Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – 1x3 at 16-1/4” – Small Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – 1x3 at 15-3/4” – Center Small Drawer Front
  • 4 – 1x2 at 16-1/4” – Drawer Front Spacers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 15-3/4” – Drawer Front Spacers
  • 4 – 1x4** (ripped to 3-1/8”) at 16-1/4” – Large Drawer Front (Upper Piece)
  • 2 – 1x4** (ripped to 3-1/8”) at 15-3/4” – Center Large Drawer Front (Upper Piece)
  • 4 – 1x4** (ripped to 3-1/4”) at 16-1/4” – Large Drawer Front (Lower Piece)
  • 2 – 1x4** (ripped to 3-1/4”) at 15-3/4” – Center Large Drawer Front (Lower Piece)

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut and assemble all pieces for the front frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material. Use 2-1/2” screws and glue for strong joints! Make sure the frame is square!

Step 1
Step 2

Cut and assemble the frame pieces for the back. After checking the square of the frame, cut the plywood pieces for the back. If you are using this cabinet for media storage, you may want to use a hole saw and cut a hole at least 1-1/2” in diameter in the back piece (at the shelves) for a power cord to pass through. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and attach to the frame (with 1-1/4” screws) making sure the outside face of the back (opposite the pocket holes) is flush with the outside edge of the frame.

 

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill holes in each end of the 2x2 supports, then set the jig for ¾” material and drill holes in the plywood. Attach the 2x2s to the top and bottom edges of the plywood with the 1-1/4” screws. Make sure the outside face of the plywood (opposite the pocket holes) is flush with the outside edge of the 2x2s.

At this point, you may want to sand all of the parts that have been constructed so far, as well as any pieces that are going to be cut from now on. Once the piece is fully assembled, sanding may be a tad bit difficult!

 

 

Step 3
Step 4

Attach the sides to the front and back frames with 2-1/2” screws and glue, again making sure the cabinet is square.

Attach the 1x2 supports to the inside of the sides and to the top at the measurements indicated. (See the notes on the drawings.)

The rest of the cabinet will be assembled in a “top-down” fashion.

 

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the plywood for the top. The top will be glued to the top supports, then fastened with a brad nailer and 1-1/4” brad nails.

 

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the upper and middle supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill holes in each end. Attach to frame as indicated with 2-1/2” screws. The upper supports will sit higher than the face frame to allow for the fastening of the drawer slides. The middle supports will be even with the face frame.

Cut the plywood pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill holes in the shelves. Attach the shelves to the middle supports and frame as indicated making sure the top face of the plywood is even with the front frame and supports.. The narrower plywood piece goes in the center. 

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the lower supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill holes in each end. Attach to frame as indicated with 2-1/2” screws. The lower supports will sit higher than the face frame to allow for the fastening of the drawer slides just like the upper supports.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut and assemble the 1x3, 1x8 and ¼” plywood pieces for the drawer boxes. Use the Kreg jig set for ¾” material. The bottoms can be attached with a brad nailer. You will have four drawers measuring 15-1/2” wide (two at 2-1/2” tall and two at 7-1/2” tall), and two drawers measuring 15” wide (one at 2-1/2” tall and one at 7-1/2” tall).

Attach the drawer slides to the upper and lower support pieces locating them ¾” back from the face of the front frame (this allows for the drawer fronts to sit flush across the frame). Install the drawer boxes and make any necessary adjustments.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut all of the pieces for the drawer fronts. Set aside the 2-1/2” x 16-1/4” and the 2-1/2” x 15-3/4” pieces. These are the faces for the small drawers. Drill pocket holes in the long end of the  3-1/4” pieces and the 3-1/8” pieces and assemble with the 1-1/2” pieces in the center. Pre-drill the holes in the faces for the pulls. There will be two pulls on each of the larger drawer fronts to look like two drawers on each – see drawing.

Insert each drawer front into the opening and shim in place. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides for ease in opening and closing the drawer. Screw the drawer fronts to the boxes from the front through the holes for the pulls. Open each drawer and fasten the fronts with screws from the inside of the drawer box, then remove the screws on the outside. Finish drilling out these holes for the pulls.

Attach the middle drawer fronts to the openings with the hinges. Attach the drawer stops to the sides of each opening to keep the door from opening past 90 degrees.

Step 9
Step 10
That's it... Now wasn't all of that cutting, drilling, twisting and turning worth it??
Step 10
Finishing Instructions

 

If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.

If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

All I have to say is *Swoon*... this piece is fab! The inspiration piece has a built in power strip. A hole can be bored into the back and a power strip can be mounted inside…

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • Full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Half sheet of ½” plywood
  • Half sheet of ¼” lauan or plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 5/8” brad nails
  • 2 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 2 sets of hinges
  • 18 cup pulls, handles, or drawer knobs
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies

 

Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 24-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 20” - Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 20” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 17-1/4” - Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 21-1/2” – Top
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 4-5/8” x 9-3/8” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 9-3/8” x 17” - Door
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 10-1/4” x 17” – Door
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 4” x 8-5/8” – Drawer Boxes
  • 4 – ½” plywood at 4” x 15” – Drawer Boxes
  • 1 – ¼” lauan or plywood at 21-1/2” x 24-1/2” - Back
  • 2 – ¼” lauan or plywood at 8-5/8” x 16” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 14 – ¼” lauan or plywood at 2-1/4” x 9-3/8” – Drawer Pieces
  • 4 – ¼” lauan or plywood at 2-1/2” x 9-3/8” – Drawer Pieces
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the sides. Mark the curve at the bottom using the measurements in the drawing and cut out with a jigsaw.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the height indicated – 1-1/4” up from the bottom.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end. The shelves will be located ¾” from the front edge and flush with the back.  Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in one long end only. The divider will overlap the shelf by ½” and be flush with the back. Attach to cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the back and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top and secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and divider.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer boards. Assemble as shown. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions locating them ¾” from the front edge of the cabinet.

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts and attach to the drawer boxes using glue and brad nails. The fronts will be located ¼” back from the front edge.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the doors. One door will be larger than the other to offset the drawer divider. The doors will be located ¼” from the front edge and there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door, including the center. They will also overlap the upper shelf by 5/8” to allow for an 1/8” gap between the drawer and the top of the door. (See drawing)

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the smaller pieces for the “drawers”. Attach to the drawer fronts and doors with glue and 5/8” brad nails. There will be a 1/8” gap between pieces. The pieces for the drawers will be flush with the top and with the bottom allowing for a 1/8” gap in between. The pieces for the doors will be located in the same way, with two of the larger pieces (2-1/2”) at the bottom of each door.

Drill the holes for the handles and install. 

Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! 

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

Another project from the project request page (which will be moving to the community pages shortly for ease of tracking) and an amazingly versatile piece! Bath storage, book shelves, or display.. this piece will cover them all!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 3’
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’ (or 2 – 2x4 ripped to 1-1/2” wide, saving the excess for the X pieces)
  • 3 – 1x2 at 8’
  •  Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – ¼” strips at 8’ 
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies

 

Cut List
  • 8 – 1x2 at 9” – Shelf Sides
  • 8 – 1x2 at 17” – Shelf Front & Back
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 9” x 17” – Shelves
  • 4 – 2x2 at 76” - Sides
  • 4 – 1x6 at 9” – Upper & Lower Aprons
  • 4 – 1x6 at 17” – Upper & Lower Aprons
  • 2 – ¼” strips 1-1/2” x 78-1/2” – “X”
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 20” - Top
  • 1 – 3’ piece of crown molding
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

** It may be easier to sand each piece before assembly **

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the plywood pieces. Also drill pocket holes in each end of the shelf side pieces. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the tower sides. Attach the shelves at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

 

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the aprons. Drill pocket holes in the end of each board and attach to the top and bottom of the tower sides. The bottom apron will be located directly under the lowest shelf.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the “X”. Attach to the tower with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and apron pieces.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the crown molding (or molding of your choice). Attach to the front and sides of the tower with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! 

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

The most fabulous storage piece and a special request submitted to the Project Request page!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

 

  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber

 

  • 1 – sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 4 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 8 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 7 – 1x6 at 8’
Materials

 

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 7 sets of 18” drawer slides
  • Drawer Handles or knobs
  • Edge banding for the plywood
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  • 4 – 2x2 at 54-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Side Stretcher
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 48-3/4” – Side Panels
  • 14 – 1x2 at 34” – Support Frames
  • 8 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Support Frames
  • 2 – 1x2 at 7” – Vertical Supports
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 37” x 50-1/4” - Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18x 33-3/4” – Shelf
  • 8 – 1x6 at 15-5/8” – Upper Drawer Boxes
  • 6 – 1x6 at 33” – Lower Drawer Boxes
  • 14 – 1x6 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 22-1/2” x 38-1/2” - Top
  • 4 – ¼” plywood at 15-5/8” x 20” – Upper Drawer Bottoms
  • 3 – ¼” plywood at 20” x 33” – Lower Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 16-3/8” – Upper Drawer Fronts
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/4” x 33-3/4” – Lower Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

Cut the pieces for the side frames, panels, and stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x2 frame pieces as well as the side panels. The 1x2 pieces will be located so that the 1-1/2” face is on the top/bottom. Assemble the frame with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws, then attach the panels in the same manner. The back of the panel should be flush with the back of the frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretchers. Attach to sides at the spacing indicated with glue and 1-1/2” screws.

Step 1
Step 2

 

Cut the pieces for the drawer supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/2” screws. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing indicated in the drawings. It may be easier to start at the bottom and work your way up.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

 

Cut the pieces for the vertical supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the center of the upper drawer compartments at the spacing indicated.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the piece for the back and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

 

Cut the piece for the top and secure to the supports and side frames with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. The front and sides of the top will hang over by ¾”.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the piece for the shelf. To make it slide easier, draw a pencil mark on the underside of the shelf where the supports are located. Push thumbtacks (the brass tacks work best) into the underside of the shelf along the pencil marks so that the tacks will slide along the supports when the shelf is pulled out.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

 

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Do not attach the drawer faces until the drawer  boxes have been installed and adjusted! Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions placing them ¾” back from the opening face to allow for the fronts. Make any adjustments necessary.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

 

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. For all drawer fronts, pre-drill the holes for the handles. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front. Place the drawer front in the opening and shim in place. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles and attach the hardware.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! 

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Maurice / The Design Confidential
Project Image

I promised myself I would build this lounger for my 52nd birthday and on March 11th (my birthday) I completed it. So you can see, this project has meant more to me than I can ever express.

I want to say that I never buit anything in my life that did not come with Ikea-like instructions. This was a labor of love and very satisfying.  I want to thank you so much for these amazing plans. This lounger is going to provide many relaxing moments in the sun reading and relaxing. BTW, its much bigger than I thought. I look forward to start building the double lounger  next weekend. I'm sure I'll be able to cut down my build time in half.  Thank you for an amazing experience! I found my new hobby!

Built From These Plans: 
Free Woodworking Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Chesapeake Single Chaise Lounge
Estimated Cost: 

Overall these plans are very easy to understand and very thorough.  The cost was accurate almost to the dollar. Word of warning though, double check the cuts.  I had my lumber cuts done at Homedepot and they screwed up the 30 slats and use two-inch hinges for best fit. I recommend that you buy: 1-Kreg right angle clamp and 2- kreg small clamps,and two boxes of 100 each 1.25 inch pocket hole screws to make your life easy and get a great fit in your build. 

Length of Time: 

Altogether it took me 22 hours over 4 days at an easy pace.

Lumber Used: 

I would like to make a couple of comments on the plans and maybe a tip or two for anyone considering this project. First, I noticed the plan did not include a rear interior frame so I added one to add extra rigidity. Also, the added rear interior frame allows the back rest stand to slide under the back rest without touching the ground.

I tried to show as many angles on the rear interior frame so you can see the placement. Basically, it sits just under where the back part of the original interior frame is placed. The dimensions are 26” wide and 21.75” long (or built so it fits flush with the bottom end of the front interior frame and the bottom of the last adjustment block support.

Secondly, the instructions and drawings on adding the legs did not make any mention of how the legs will be attached to the frame until Step 8. The picture in Step 8 has vertical pocket holes showing on the length part of the exterior frame (you need these to attach the legs), but when building the exterior frame in Step 1 there is no mention of adding those vertical pocket holes. This becomes a serious problem when you get to step 8 and there is no way to attach the legs to the frame using the Kreg jig. My fix to this was to attach 4 custom cut small blocks of wood with Kreg pocket holes (attached to the frame with 2 wood screws for each block) to the end areas of the inside of the external frame.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

We covered plans for the buffet here, and now the hutch! Isn't it fabulous? Just think of all that amazing wine storage! 

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6’
  • Full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Quarter sheet of ½” plywood
  • Half sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 3 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x6 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 4’
  • 24 – ¾” dowels at 3’
  • 1 – Trim or Casing at 4’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 2” screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 2 pieces of glass or acrylic
  • 2 – Drawer Handles or knobs
  • Edge banding for the plywood or Laminate for top
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Router with rabbeting bit
  • Silicone to adhere glass/acrylic to door frame
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 6 – 1x3 at 6” – Side & Divider Frames
  • 6 – 1x3 at 43-1/4” – Side & Divider Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 6” x 38-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 28 – 1x2 at 10-1/4” – Shelf Supports
  • 2 – 1x4 at 21-7/8” – Lower Aprons
  • 2 – 1x6 at 21-7/8” (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) – Upper Aprons
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 43-1/4” x 46” – Back
  • 14 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 21-7/8” – Shelves
  • 70 – ¾” dowels at 11” – Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 47” – Top
  • 1 – Trim or Casing at 46” – Top Trim
  • 4 – 1x3 at 17-1/2” – Door Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 38-1/2” – Door Frames
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the side frames and divider. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown.

Cut the plywood piece for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the supports. Attach with the spacing indicated in the drawing using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the upper and lower aprons. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves and dividers. Attach each dowel piece to the shelves with the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The ends of the dividers can be rounded off by thoroughly sanding them.

Secure the shelves to the supports using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. It would be easier to start with the bottom shelf first, then work your way up.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the top and secure to the sides and aprons with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. The top will overlap by ½” on the sides and front.

Step 6
Step 7

 Cut the piece for the trim. Attach to the front just under the top with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the door frames and assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using a router and a rabbeting bit, cut a rabbet approximately ¼” deep to hold the glass or acrylic. Run a bead of silicone in the rabbet to secure the glass or acrylic to the frame.

Wait to purchase the glass or acrylic until after the doors are completed. This way you can get an accurate measurement of the area because the rabbet width will depend on the router bit used.

Attach the hinges to the doors, then attach them to the cabinet.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

If you enjoyed this post PLEASE PIN IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!

You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin! 

I would love for you to check out my other site: Handmade-Holiday! For all of your DIY Holiday Decor, Gifts, Parties, and More!

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

** Special request **

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools

 

  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber

 

  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 1 – sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials

 

  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • Edge Banding for plywood
  • 4 – 2” casters
  • 3 sets of 14” drawer slides
  • 3 cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List

 

  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 24-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 17” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Back
  • 3 – 1x2 at 15-1/2” – Front Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 17” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 13-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 13-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Sides
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 14-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Backs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 15-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 13-1/4” – Larger Drawer Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Larger Drawer Back
  • 1 – ¾”plywood at 6-3/4” x 15-1/4” – Larger Drawer Front
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

If edge banding is being used, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

 

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Attach to the sides and the bottom of the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the cabinet as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

 Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the back and sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides and back into the underside of the top.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the smaller drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer box by 3/8" on each side. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer's instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

 

 Cut the pieces for the larger drawers and assemble in the same manner as the smaller drawers.

Attach the casters according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Submitted by Cher-Ann Texter / Designs by Studio C
Project Image
Project Details

A fabulous Buffet with clean lines and simple styling, this piece is sure to fit with most decor! 

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Hammer or Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 3’
  • Half sheet of ½” plywood
  • Full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Half sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 4’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 4x4 at 3’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 2” screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
  • 2 sets of 18” drawer slides
  • 4 – Drawer Handles or knobs
  • Edge banding for the plywood or Laminate for top
  • Countersink bit for Drill
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 1x3 at 15” – Side Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 29-1/4” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 15” x 24-1/4” – Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 44-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 28-1/2” – Divider
  • 4 – 1x2 at 21-7/8” – Top Supports
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 21-7/8” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 29-1/4” x 46” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-3/4” x 47” – Top
  • 2 – 1x3 at 46” – Base Frame
  • 3 – 1x3 at 17” – Base Frame
  • 4 – 4x4 at 3-1/4” - Feet
  • 4 – 1x4 at 20-7/8” – Drawer Boxes
  • 4 – 1x4 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • 2 – ¼” plywood at 18” x 20-7/8” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 21-5/8” – Drawer Fronts
  • 4 – 1x3 at 16-5/8” – Door Frames
  • 4 – 1x3 at 21-3/4” – Door Frames
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 16-5/8” x 16-3/4” – Door Panels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

Cut the pieces for the side frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown.

Cut the plywood piece for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Assemble with glue and 1” pocket hole screws making sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the frame.

Step 1
Step 2

 

Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the two shorter ends. Attach the sides with the bottom of the frames flush with the bottom face using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 

Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes in one short end only and secure in the center of the bottom with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the pieces for the top support. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Secure to the sides and divider using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

 

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in the shorter ends of each shelf and secure with the spacing shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the piece for the back. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the side frames, shelves, bottom, and top supports.

Step 6
Step 7

 

 Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet with ½” overlap at the sides and front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the supports, divider, and side panels.

Step 7
Step 8

 

Cut the pieces for the base. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the three shorter pieces and assemble as shown. Attach the feet to the frame with countersunk 2” screws through the base frame into the feet.

Attach the base to the cabinet with countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the frame into the bottom.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

 

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Do not attach the drawer faces until the drawer  boxes have been installed and adjusted! Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions placing them ¾” back from the opening face to allow for the fronts. Make any adjustments necessary.

Step 9
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Drill the holes for the handle or knob placement. Shim in place in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and drill a temporary screw through the holes into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers and secure the fronts to the boxes from the insides with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handle or knob. Cut the pieces for the doors and assemble as shown, in the same manner as the sides. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors. Attach the hinges to the doors, then shim in place and attach the hinges to the cabinet.
Step 10
Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

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Submitted by JCostilow / The Design Confidential
Project Image

I wanted this activity table to double as a coffee table, so I added 3" to all the vertical pieces. With being a husband, a father of 2 little ones, and a full time service tech in the HVAC industry, this project wore me out.  I have to say it was all worth it, the kids love it and we have a piece of furniture that will stay in the family for a long time. 

-Jerry these mods are amazing and I think this is the absolute perfect coffee table, especially since they all double as a play table when there are kiddos around anyhow! genius! ~ Rayan

Built From These Plans: 
Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Restoration Hardware Inspired Mason Activity Table
Estimated Cost: 

As far as cost goes, with lumber, and all other materials, including finishing, I'd say around $150.  I would chalk some of the cost up to this being my first project.

Length of Time: 

With that said, it probably took me longer than it should've. 

Lumber Used: 

Everything is Pine.

Finishing Technique: 

I did not use any wood glue, it was all pocket hole screws. I tried to match the stain that is on the entertainment center in the background.  Unfortunately I found it by using one stain on top of another (Colonial Maple on top of Early American).  Inexperience, twice the staining, and staining everything prior to construction, all helped prolong the effort.  I topped it off with 2 coats of a clear satin poly, just on the top.

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