Nov
06
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Project Details

The Holidays are quickly approaching and making something special for your little ones is a fabulous way to celebrate! A playhouse that you are excited to add to your home is perfect for all of you style conscious parents out there! I will be posting plans as part of our ongoing Handmade Holiday series, between now and then, and of course we have many plans from the previous years for you to choose from as well. I will be retagging all of our plans that didn't get updated in the move, so check back often to see which project you might like to tackle for your children this year!

Finished Project for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$200-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 11 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at – 4’x8’
  • 1 – 1/4” plywood at – 2’x2’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 54” – Front Side Posts
  • 4 – 2x2 at 41-3/4” – Front Side Roof Support, Front Side Top Plate, Front Side Center Rail, and Front Side Bottom Plate
  • 2 – 2x2 at 46-1/4” – Back Side Posts
  • 4 – 2x2 at 41-3/4” - Back Side Roof Support, Back Side Top Plate, Back Side Center Rail, and Back Side Bottom Plate
  • 3 – 2x2 at 41-3/4” - Right Side Top Plate, Right Side Center Rail, and Right Side Bottom Plate
  • 1 – 2x2 at 41-3/4” – Left Side Top Plate
  • 2 – 2x2 at 20” – Left Side Center Rail and Left Side Bottom Plate
  • 1 – 2x2 at 40-1/2” – Left Side Door Frame
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18-3/4” – Back Side Center Posts
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18-3/4” – Right Side Center Posts
  • 1 – 2x2 at 18-3/4” – Front Center Post
  • 2 – 2x2 at 48” – Side Roof Supports
  • 2 – 2x2 at 19-3/4” –Door Frame Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18-1/2” – Door Frame Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-1/2”x16-3/4” – Door Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Left Side Mail Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Left Side Bottom Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Back Side Top Left Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Back Side Bottom Left Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20-1/4” – Back Side Top Right Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 41-3/4”x2-1/2” – Back Side Top Roof Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20-1/4” – Right Side Bottom Left Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Right Side Bottom Right Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 41-3/4”x10-1/4” – Front Top Roof Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20-1/4” – Front Bottom Left Panel
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 18-3/4”x20” – Front Bottom Right Panel
  • 1 – 1/4” plywood at 18-1/2”x20” – Front Sliding Panel
  • 4 – 1x2 at 41-3/4”– Sliding Panel Guides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 51-1/2”x50-3/4” – Top (use scraps from the 4x8 plywood sheets to create the top) OR get creative and use corrugated panels, strung twinkle lights, etc!
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Front Side Posts, Front Side Roof Support, Front Side Top Plate, Front Side Center Rail, and Front Side Bottom Plate. Cut the Top of the Front Side Posts as shown in the blowup detail – measure 1/4” down on the backside of the pieces and mark it. Cut the angle as shown.  Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Roof Support, Top Plate, Center Rail, and Bottom Plate. Make sure the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Additionally, make sure that the Roof Support does not extend above the cut angle of the Front Side Posts when assembled.

 

Front Framing for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Back Side Posts, Back Side Roof Support, Back Side Top Plate, Back Side Center Rail, and Back Side Bottom Plate. Cut the Top of the Back Side Posts as shown in the blowup detail – measure 1/4” down on the backside of the piece and mark it. Cut the angle as shown.  Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Roof Support, Top Plate, Center Rail, and Bottom Plate. Make sure the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Additionally, make sure that the Roof Support does not extend above the cut angle of the Back Side Posts.

Back Framing for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 3

Cut the piece for the Right Side Top Plate, Right Side Center Rail, and Right Side Bottom Plate. Drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Attach as shown to both the Front Side and the Back Side with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse.

Right Framing for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Left Side Top Plate, Left Side Center Rail, Left Side Bottom Plate, and Left Side Door Frame. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top Plate, Center Rail, and Bottom Plate. Attach as shown to both the Front Frame and the Back Frame with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse.

Left Framing for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Back Side Center Posts. Drill pocket holes in the ends of these pieces and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Back Center Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Right Side Center Posts. Drill pocket holes in the ends of these pieces and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Right Center Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Front Center Post. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Post and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Front Center Posts for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 8

Cut the rough pieces for the Side Roof Supports, approximately 48” in length. Clamp the pieces to the Front and Back Posts so that the Supports follow the angle of the Posts and overhang on each end. Draw a line along the interior side of the Posts with your pencil – this will be the angle that you will need to cut. After cutting the marked angles, drill pocket holes in the ends of these pieces and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face toward the floor of the Playhouse.

Top Slant Piece Detail for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Top Slant Pieces for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Top and Bottom Door Frame, Side Door Frames, and Door Panel. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the Side Door Frames and attach as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in all sides of the Door Panel. Again, make sure the pocket holes face the inside of the Playhouse. Center the Door Panel within the Door Frame that was just assembled and attach with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Door Panel should be set back 1/2” from the front and the back of the Door Frame. Attach the hinges to the Door Frame and Post as shown so that there is a constant 1/4” gap on all sides of the door. Attach a knob if desired.

Side Door for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the Left Side Mail Panel and Left Side Bottom Panel.  Drill pilot holes in each corner of the mail slot. Then, cut out the mail slot as shown with a jigsaw. Drill pocket holes on all the sides of each Panel (the Kreg jig should still be set for 1/2” material). Attach as shown with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Panels should be centered in their surrounding 2x2 “frames.” Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Side Boxes for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Back Side Top Roof Panel, Back Side Top Left Panel, Back Side Top Right Panel, and Back Side Bottom Left Panel. Drill pocket holes on all the sides of the Panels (the Kreg jig should still be set for 1/2” material). If desired, paint the Top Right and Bottom Left Panels with chalkboard paint. Attach as shown with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Panels should be centered in their surrounding 2x2 “frames.” Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Back Side Boxes for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Right Side Bottom Left Panel and Right Side Bottom Right Panel.  Drill pocket holes on all the sides of the Panels (the Kreg jig should still be set for 1/2” material). Attach as shown with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Panels should be centered in their surrounding 2x2 “frames.” Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Step 13

Cut the pieces for the Front Top Roof Panel and Front Bottom Left and Right Panels. Drill pocket holes on all the sides of the Panels (the Kreg jig should still be set for 1/2” material). If desired, paint the Top Roof Panel with chalkboard paint. Attach as shown with glue and 2” pocket screws. The Panels should be centered in their surrounding 2x2 “frames.” Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of Playhouse.

Front Boxes for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 14
  • Cut the piece for the Front Sliding Panel. Drill 1” holes as shown on each side of the Panel. If desired, paint the Sliding Panel with chalkboard paint.
  • Cut the pieces for the Sliding Panels Guides. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each ends of the guides. Place the Sliding Panel between the front and back guides on both the top and bottom. Install as shown with glue and 1-1/2” pocket screws. The pocket holes on the guides should face the inside of the Playhouse.
  • There should be a 1/2” space between the guides when installed. 

 

Sliding Board for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Sliding Rails for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Sliding Rail Detail for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Step 15

Cut the pieces for the Top. There will be approximately a 3” overhang on all sides. Attach to the Playhouse Frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Top for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Bungalow Playhouse
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Kiddos 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Oct
28
2014
The Design Confidential Real Reader Showcase // The Pursuit of Handyness Campaign Dresser

I chose to build a Campaign Style Dresser for the hubs side of the bed. For my side of the bed, you might remember that I built the Parquetry Dresser that can be seen as a Builders Showcase here.

Finished Cut and Sanded Plywood and Boards for The Design Confidential Real Reader Showcase // The Pursuit of Handyness Campaign Dresser
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

$160

Modifications 

I chose to replace the top drawer with an open shelf and modified the dimensions to suit my space.

Finishing Technique 

American Walnut Stain and Polyurethane

Modified Top Drawer to be a Shelf for The Design Confidential Real Reader Showcase // The Pursuit of Handyness Campaign Dresser
Profile View of Finished Campaign Dresser for The Design Confidential Real Reader Showcase // The Pursuit of Handyness Campaign Dresser
Oct
22
2014
The Design Confidential Top 10 Most Popular DIY Open Ended + Imaginative Play Toy Woodworking Plans 1 Through 5

The Holidays are right around the corner and sneaking up on us pretty quickly, whether we like it or not. Get a jump start on your gift list this year and build something fabulous for a very special kiddo in your life. From full sized play house fun to accessories fit for the more petite members of your doll family, there is something amazing and encouraging of open ended play for everyone, in this round up of our most popular DIY play inspiring project plans. 

While I am a firm believer that toys should be nondescriminate and able to be played with by either boys or girls, I have divided up these plans by play style preference, and naturally they seem to have fallen into precisely the type of categorization I prefer to avoid - or boy vs girl. I assure you this was not my original intention and wholeheartedly think boys and girls alike, should enjoy play kitchens and dolls and adventure activities. So I have created these projects with the idea that each and every one of them can be entirely customized to suit your little one perfectly, from color to fabric and trim styles too. Make it theirs... And take lots of pictures along the way. 

1 // Indoor Outdoor Play House Bed 2 // Chalkboard Artist's Studio 3 // No-Sew Teepee 4 // Wooden Racetrack Toy 5 // Gourmet Kitchen

 

Design 
Oct
21
2014

I modified the benches to make stools. They work great. The plans were very easy to follow and it looks awesome in the backyard...just in time for the winter, haha.

To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

About $60 for the stools and $50-60 for the table.

Length of Time 

Approx 3 days...took me longer because I couldnt do it all at one time. :)

Modifications 
Lumber Used 

White Pine

Finishing Technique 

Thompsons Waterseal

Additional Project Details 
Note
Oct
20
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this media console is so very handsome and wants to live in your home... So go forth and build this beautiful baby and make your home that much more stylish! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 7 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 3/4” plywood at – 4’x8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x19-1/4” – Cabinet Sides
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 19-1/4”x56” – Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 4 – 2x4 at 6” – Legs
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2”x56” – Cabinet Back
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 16-1/2”x18” – Center Divider
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x37-1/4” – Left Shelf
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 18”x18” – Right Shelf
  • 6 – 1x2 at 16” – Door Tops and Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x2 at 18” – Door Sides
  • 27 – 1x2 at 15” – Door Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Sides, Top, and Bottom. Apply edge banding to front edges of all pieces, if desired. Set the Kreg Jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of the Top and Bottom pieces. Make sure the pocket holes will face the inside of the Console. Assemble pieces as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Legs. You will need 4 of these exactly the same. This diagram shows you how to mark out the shape you need for the Console Legs. Use your circular saw to cut this out. If you simply connect the dots between the dimensions outlined below and use a circular saw to make these cuts, you won't have to worry about the actual angle for each corner.

Attach Legs to the bottom of the Console as shown with glue and 1-3/4” wood screws. The Legs should be placed 3/4” from the Sides of the Console and flush with the front edge of the Console. Insert the wood screws down through the Console Bottom into the Legs so that the screws are hidden. Also, make sure that the screws are countersunk so that they do not interfere with items placed inside the Console.

Step 3

Cut the piece for the Back. Drill pocket holes in each edge of the Back. Attach the Back as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws. Make sure that the pocket holes face the inside of the Console.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the Center Divider. Drill pocket holes in the top andbottom of the Divider. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocketscrews.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Shelves. Drill pocket holes in the ends of theshelves and assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.There will be an approximate 1/2” space in the back between the shelvesand the Console Back.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the Door Tops, Bottoms, and Slats. Drill pocket holesin the ends of the Tops, Bottoms, and Slats. Attach as shown with glueand 1-1/4” pocket screws. There will be a 1/4” gap between each Slat.Repeat this for all three Doors. Remember to keep checking for “square”on each door – each door should measure the same diagonally in bothdirections.

Step 7

Attach hinges as shown at the top and bottom of the Doors and attach tothe Console. There will be a 1/4” space between each installed Door.Add Door hardware such as a pull or knob if desired. 

Step 8
Step 9
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Oct
08
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Project Details

The Low Loft Bunk Bed Series is hands down our most popular series of project plans to date. Many of you have asked for a queen sized version of this fabulous sleeper and I am finally obliging! Yahoo. I have made a modification to the ladder in this plan, for both the orientation as well as the method of construction, to be more accomodating to adults and to allow for a more compact footprint. You can refer to this if you prefer it, when you are building any of the other sizes, and can adjust the width for the person who will use it. Easy to build, and extremely budget friendly, this Free Woodworking plan to build a queen sized low loft bunk bed is the perfect project for those of you who need to go up rather than out in your furniture layout. Upward and onward, as they say.

The other amazing plans in this collection are below! 

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Twin Sized Low Loft Bunk

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Toddler Sized Low Loft Bunk

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Full Sized Low Loft Bunk

The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 4 - 4x4 at 6' Fence Posts - UNTREATED
  • 2 - 2x6 at 8'
  • 2 - 2x6 at 6'
  • 14 - 2x4 at 8'
  • 15 - 1x4 at 6' - if 8' boards are cheaper, buy those - you will have leftover scrap.
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 at 59" - Legs
  • 2 - 2x6 at 81" - Side Rails
  • 2 - 2x6 at 70" - Head / Foot Rails
  • 2 - 2x4 at 81" - Cleats
  • 4 - 2x4 at 81" - Upper Side Rails and Center Support Joists
  • 4 - 2x4 at 70" - Upper Head / Foot Rails
  • 1 - 2x4 at 59" - Front Guard Rai Ladder Leg
  • 4 - 2x4 at 8 3/4" - Lower Front Guard Rail Ladder Supports
  • 1 - 2x4 at 18" - Upper Front Guard Rail Ladder Supports
  • 2 - 2x4 at 55" - Guard Rail Side Upper Rails
  • 4 - 2x4 at 27" - Ladder Rungs
  • 15 - 1x4 at 67" - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut all 4 Legs to size and then notch out the sections shown in the image on one of the legs. You can use a jig saw, table saw or a circular saw to do this. Then attach the Cleats to the Side Rails using 2" Screws and be sure the bottom of the Side Rail and the Cleat are flush. You 

To attach the Rails to the Legs you will arrange the pieces as shown in the diagram below, making sure to leave 1 1/2" on either side of the ends of the Rails to allow for the Head and Foot Rails later. Clamp together making sure everything is completely square before you proceed. Once square and aligned as needed, you will use a 7/16" Drill Bit and drill through all 3 pieces on each side (the leg, rail and cleat), creating 2 holes on either side for the bolts that will secure this. 

Fasten with your Carriage Bolts and tighten.

Legs and Side Rails for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 2

Attach the Lower Head and Foot Rails to the Side Rails so that they sit flush with the outside of the Legs and with the Lower Side Rails. Use 3" Screws to secure these to the Side Rails. Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" material, to secure the Center Support Joists to the Head and Foot Rails and 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws. Then fasten the Upper Side Rails one one side (not the side that will have your ladder) to the Back Legs using 3" Screws.

Upper Side Rails and Support Joists for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 3

Create your Guard Rail Leg Unit. This will be 2 - 2x4's, one long and the other cut into sections with spacing and dimensions as shown in the image. This will hold your ladder rungs later so just be sure that the separation between your shorter ladder supports will actually fit a 2x4 nice and snug. You need to fit it in place but you don't want any wiggle room so a tight fit is better than a slightly loose fit. Attach the Front Upper Side Rails to the Leg using 3" screws and attach to the Guard Rail Leg Unit using 2" Screws.

Guard Rail Side Rails and Ladder Legs for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 4

Attach the Upper Head Rails on the side opposite where you choose to put the ladder, in my example this would be the left side. Use 3" Screws and secure into the ends of the Upper Side Rails. 

Upper Head Rails for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 5

Lay your Slats approximately 2" apart. Be sure the 2 on the outside edges are flush in both corners. Screw down using 1 1/4" Screws or Nails and fasten to both cleats and both support joists.

Bed Slats for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 6

Attach the remaining 2 upper Foot Rails to the Back Upper Side Rails and the Front Leg using a Pocket hole System (Kreg Jig) set for 1 1/2" materials and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the Rails to the front Leg. To fasten the Foot Rails to the Back Side you can either use Pocket Hole Screws and glue to connect them to the Back Leg or 3" Wood Screws and Glue, with a countersink bit to predrill and secure directly to the end of the Upper Side Rails. 

Slide the Ladder Rungs into place and secure with glue. You can choose to secure with 3" Wood Screws from the legs into the ends of the rungs, but this is optional and you can absolutely secure with glue and call it a day!

Ladder Rungs and Upper Foot Rails for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 7
Step 8
Step 9
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

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