Dec
29
2013
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Harcombe Table. I'm on the hunt for a new kitchen table for my kitchen nook and I am wanting to build something a tad different. This might be a fabulous choice in that it can easily be a style that is lasting depending on the wood type and finish you choose, yet it is unique enough to not be boring after 5 minutes. I can envision this beauty in a reclaimed wood look or perhaps a bright shiny modern white... It's just so hard to pull the trigger and decide on what to make, there are so many options... eek Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 14 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 3 full sheets of ¼” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x2 at 84” – Top Frame
  • 6 – 1x2 at 40-1/2” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 2x2 at 40-1/2” – Top Frame
  • 8 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Top Frame
  • 3 – 1x2 at 11” – Top Frame
  • 7 – 1x2 at 10-3/4” – Top Frame
  • 4 – 1x2 at 28-1/2” – Leg Frames
  • 4 – 1x2 at 40-1/2” – Leg Frames
  • 8 – 1x2 at 27” – Leg Frames
  • 4 – 1x2 at 4” – Leg Frames
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8” – Leg Frames
  • 4 – ¼” plywood at 28-1/2” x 40-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – ¼” plywood at 11-3/4” x 42” - Underside
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 42” x 56-1/2” - Underside
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 42” x 84” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the top frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the two 84” pieces and the two 2x2 pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The 2x2 pieces will be secured using countersunk 2” screws from the outside into the end of each piece. The smaller pieces will be staggered to offer additional support.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the leg frames and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces except for the 40-1/2” pieces. Drill pocket holes in one end only of each of the 4” and 8” pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The horizontal 27” pieces in the center will be added last to allow room to drive the pocket hole screws in the 4” and 8” pieces. Secure the end of the 4” and 8” ends (opposite the pocket hole screws) using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

The legs frames will be secured to the 2x2 pieces in the top frame using glue and several 2” screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the leg covering from the ¼” plywood. Secure to each side of each leg frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4

 Cut the plywood pieces for the underside of the table top. Secure to the underside of the top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5

 Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Fill any gaps in the edges of the top and legs using wood filler or Dry Dex.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
27
2013
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: Complete Instructions on How to Build a Naldi Stemware Rack. The perfect companion piece for your bar cart. Hang nearby for easy, yet gorgeously displayed access to your stemware! Now you can use the bar cart for bottle service and get those glasses up and out of the way for a convenient serving and cocktail making station. This build is both easy and budget friendly but best of all it solves the pesky problem of how you store your wine and champagne glasses. No more '1 up - 1 down' storing of your stemware to make the most of your space...

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • ¾” holesaw or paddle bit
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 4 Eye bolt
  • Chain
  • Ceiling hook for hanging the rack
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x2 at 25” – Rack Frame
  • 3– 1x2 at 10” – Rack Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 10-1/4” – Rack Frame
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the rack. Using the holesaw or paddle bit, mark the position for the holes in each piece. Use a jigsaw to cut straight lines from the holes to the edges of each board for the notches.

Step 2

 Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter boards Locate the pocket holes so the screws will not interfere with the notches. Some of the pocket holes may start in the notches themselves (as with the outer side pieces) but this will not matter as the pocket holes will not be seen.

Step 3

 Insert the eye bolts into each top corner of the frame, then attach the chain. The length of the chain will depend on how low the frame hangs down. Use all safety precautions when hanging the rack from a hook!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
20
2013
Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Project Details

We have such a special treat today my lovely fellow builders! I've teamed up with one of my favorite sweet friends, Lindsay of Makely Home to bring you a gorgeous set of plans! She has worked so very hard on this beauty so I hope you will head over to visit her and gush over her build! She will be sharing more beautiful images and details there! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Tools
Lumber
  • 1 1/2 sheets of ¾” plywood (2nd sheet - only need 2'x2' area)
  • 1 sheet 1/2" plywood
  • 1 sheet 1/4" plywood (or if your store will sell you a 1/2 sheet at 2'x8' then awesome)
  • 1- 2x6 at 6'
  • 2- 2x3 at 8' (1 front/back + 2 side per board)
  • 4- 1x6 at 8' (3 at 26  1/2 + 1 at 16 1/4 per board for 2 boards, then 5 at 16 1/4 per board)
  • 2- 1x8 at 8' (3 per board)
Materials
Cut List
  • 4- 2x4 at 7 3/4" legs
  • 4- 2x3 at 15 3/4" frame rails
  • 2- 2x3 at 51 1/4" frame front/back
  • 6- 1x6 at 26 1/2" drawer backs
  • 12- 1x6 at 16 1/4" drawer sides
  • 6- 1x8 at 27 11/16" drawer front
  • 2- 3/4" ply at 20"x22 1/4" sides
  • 2- 3/4" ply at 20"x57 1/4" top/bottom
  • 1- 3/4" ply at 19 1/4" x 22 1/4" center
  • 6- 1/2" ply at 26 1/2" x 5 3/4" drawer faces
  • 6-1/2" ply at 26 1/2" x 17" drawer bottoms
  • 1- 1/4" ply at 57 1/4" x 22 1/4" back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for age

Step 1

Use a 2x6 to cut your leg pieces. Create your guidelines as seen in the second image below and cut as indicated. Use a circular saw if possible.

Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Leg Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 2

Build your frame. Use 2 ½” pocket hole screws and glue to connect. The outside rails will sit flush against the leg pieces. The inner rails should sit approximately 16 ½” apart, but this is not a crucial dimension, just space them as evenly as possible.

Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 3

Build your Box. The side panels will sit inside the top and bottom panels and they will sit flush on the front, yet set in ¼” on the back side. This will allow for the back panel later. The bottom of your box will overhang your base by ¾” all the way around. Use 1 ¼” pocket hole screws with your pocket hole jig set for ¾” material and your pocket holes along the top and bottom of the panel (on the inside), and glue to fasten.

Main Box for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 4

Fasten the Center Panel in Place. The center panel will sit back ¾” on the front side and ¼” on the back side and should be centered as precisely as possible between the side panels. Use 1 ¼” pocket hole screws with your pocket hole jig set for ¾” material and your pocket holes along the top and bottom of the panel, and glue to fasten. 

Center Panel for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 5

Build Your Drawer Boxes. You will make of these 6 exactly the same way. In step 9, your drawer fronts will differ in their placement for 3 of your 6 drawers, but in this step and the next they are identical. The bottom will sit flush with the outside perimeter of the sides and back and can be secured using your brad nails and glue or 1” wood screws with a countersink bit to predrill and glue.  

Drawer Box for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 6

Secure your Drawer Faces and Attach Drawer Glides. The faces will be cut to size from your ½” plywood, and will sit flush with the drawer box on the top, sides, and bottom. The drawer glide should sit 3” up from the bottom of the box and 1” back from the front edge once the face has been attached.

Drawer Face for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 7

Cut and Notch Your Drawer Fronts. Cut your fronts to size and then notch out the handle area using a jig saw. Do not attach Drawer Fronts to the drawers themselves yet.

Drawer Front Cutout for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 8

Attach Drawer Glides to Side and Center Panels. Attach Glides in locations indicated below.  Work from the back for your measurements so they all end up at the same location (the center panel is set back farther than the sides from the front edge, so the dimensions are different from that side).  There will be 1/8” spacing around all edges of each drawer front and the placement of the drawer glides takes this into consideration.  For the bottom and center pair of drawer glides, measurements are from the bottom and back edge of the side and center panels and line up with the bottom edge of the drawer glides. For the top pair 2 of drawer glides the measurements are either from the top and back edge of the side and center panels or the bottom and back edges if you prefer, BUT they should still align with the bottom edge of the drawer glide.  All glides should sit 2 ¼” in from the back edge.  

**Also noted on the diagram below is the relative space each drawer will occupy including the 1/8” spacing on the bottom for each drawer, except for the top drawers which will have an additional 1/8” spacing on the top as well.

Drawer Glides for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 9

Insert Drawers. Line up the drawer glides and insert drawers in their respective locations. In the diagram below, the drawer front is attached, however you will actually attach the drawer front once the drawers have been inserted into the unit so you can adjust for any amount you might be ‘off’.

Drawer Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 10

Attach Drawer Fronts. You can do this after you have your drawers installed so that you can adjust for any slight discrepancies, but the location of the drawer fronts should be approximately what you see shown below in the diagram. There will be 1/8” spacing between the outside edge of the drawer front and the inside edge of the side panels on your box. There will also be 1/8” spacing above and below each drawer. There will be 1/8” spacing between the left and right drawers as well, but since they divide the space remaining, the overhang on the inside edges of your drawer fronts will be different than on the outside edges so I recommend using the outside edges as your guide. The Fronts will sit flush with the drawer on the bottom edge, will overhang 1 ½” on the top and 3/8” on the outside edge. The drawer shown below in the diagram would be a drawer for left hand side of your unit if you are facing your unit. These measurements for the overhang will be on the other side for the right hand side drawers. Attach drawer fronts with 1 1/4” brad nails and glue, where the front meets the sides of your drawer box (otherwise the nails will stick out the back of the drawer face).

Drawer Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 11

Attach the Back Panel. Use 1 ¼” brad nails and glue to attach your back to the side and center panels. 

Back Panel for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
17
2013
Reader Showcase: Ecarps Finished Louis No Sew Custom Bar Stool

Here it is - after many weekends of the finished wood sitting on my work bench, it's been assembled and enjoyed.

Estimated Cost 

Raw materials, including new belt sander and a jig saw, were about $300 for 4 stools, including foam.

Length of Time 

From start to finish, 8 weeks, but true build time is about 7 days.

Modifications 

We opted for a ladder back to keep light and unobstructed views.

Lumber Used 

Hearthy Pine, we couldn't find 2" x 4", so we used 2" x 12" and cut it into thirds to make the rear legs.

Finishing Technique 

Putty, 80 grit, 120 grit, 200 grit, belt and palm sander, one coat of Sherwin Williams stain, one coat of polyurethane, sand again with 200 grit palm sander and one final coat of polyurethane.

Dec
09
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Original Office Large Hutch. There are only a few pieces left before we finish out the Original Office Collection, and you guys will be able to customize till you drop! I can't wait to see how you mix and match to arrange your own pieces! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 full sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood edges, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Feet
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 43-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 73-1/2” - Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 40-3/4” x 73-1/2” – Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 73-1/2” – Long Shelf
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 28-3/4” - Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36-3/8” – Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 36-3/8” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 77” – Top
  • 2 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Side Trim
  • 1 – 1x2 at 76-1/2” – Front Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 

If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the sides and feet. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the top edge of each side. Attach the feet to the bottom using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The side pieces will be positioned at the center of each foot.

Step 1
Step 2

 

 Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

 

Cut the piece for the long shelf and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 4
Step 5

 

Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

 

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

 Cut the piece for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the stretcher will be flush with the outside edge of the sides.

Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

 

 Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overlap by 1”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes drilled in the sides and back.

Step 7
Step 8

 

Cut the pieces for the trim. Rout a decorative edge along one long edge of each piece if desired. Position the sides first and secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front in the same manner. A mitered corner will be used if routing a decorative edge. Adjust the length of the sides accordingly. Store-bought trim can also be used.

Step 8
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
06
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Reclaimed Timber Slat Desk. I absolutely love our Reclaimed Timber Collection and I can't wait to see who builds this first! Do you remember this reader showcase? Oh it's just so very good! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 19 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 27 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 6’
  • 1 half sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • ¼” glass or Plexiglas for the top
Materials
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • ½” diameter All-Thread  approximately 2’ long plus two nuts
  • Magnetic catch for the door
  • Paste Wax
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x6 (ripped to 3-3/4” wide) at 63” – Top End Slats
  • 19 – 1x4 at 63” – Top Slats
  • 115 – 1x4 at 3-1/2” – Blocks (shown in Dark Blue in the drawings)
  • 14 - 1x4 at 30” (with a ½” hole drilled at one end)  - Side Slats (shown in Lt. Blue in the drawings)
  • 40 – 1x4 at 30” – Slats (Shown in Lt. Blue in the drawings)
  • 15 – 1x4 at 23-7/8” (with a ½” hole drilled at one end) – Door Slats (shown in Lavender in the drawings)
  • 14 – 1x4 at 1-3/4” – Door Blocks (shown in Orange in the drawings)
  • 14 – 1x4 at 27-1/2” – Back Slats (shown in Green in the drawings)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 27-1/2” x 30” – Shelf & Bottom
  • 1 – ½” All-Thread at 22-1/4”
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 27-3/8” x 35-1/2” - Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Pieces should be sanded and finished prior to assembly. Apply a coat of paste wax to the boards with the hole drilled in the end to allow for the door to slide easily. The desk will be assembled from the top down. Each piece will be secured with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails except the areas with the holes.

 

Cut the pieces for the top. The wider 1x4 pieces will be positioned at the ends to hold the glass top in place. Start by layering the blocks on the wider pieces with the bottoms flush. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Lay a 1x4 piece on top, then secure to the blocks using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Continue layering the pieces in this manner until the top is complete.

Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the slats. Fourteen of the 30” slats will have a hole drilled in one end to allow for the All-Thread for the door. One of these pieces will have a countersunk hole drilled to capture the nut for the All-Thread. Place the nut in the countersunk hole, then secure the piece to the underside of the top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Insert the All-Thread and secure in the nut. Position a 30” slat (without a hole) as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the back slats, the door slats, and the door blocks. The door slats will have a ½” hole drilled at the end. Secure the door blocks to the ends of the door slats using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The back slats will be secured using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, and the door slats will be threaded on the All-Thread piece.

Step 3
Step 4

 Continue layering the pieces as shown – there will be eight back slats (green), eight door slats with blocks (lavender), eight 30” slats on each side (light blue), and eight blocks (dark blue). Cut the piece for the shelf and drill the hole for the All-Thread. Thread the shelf on the All-Thread then secure the shelf in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

 Continue layering the slats – There will be seven back slats (green), seven door slats with blocks (lavender), six 30” slats on each side (light blue), and seven blocks (dark blue).

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the bottom and drill a countersunk hole for the All-Thread. Thread the bottom on the All-Thread, then insert the nut and make it snug (not tight). Secure the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 7

Layer the final 30” slats and blocks on the bottom, as well as what will be the far left side of the desk securing the pieces with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the back. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Install a magnetic catch on the door.

Step 8
Step 9

Secure the glass on the top with beads of silicone at the edges.

Step 9
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

drupal counter