Jan
16
2014
Project Details

Oh how I love a good solid buffet, don't you? And by buffet I do not mean the kind you eat at... As a gluten free, dairy free, only thing left is rabbit food subscribing gal, they simply don't do much for me aside from the salad bar. And no, I don't happen to be g&d free by choice, womp womp. My second favorite food is cereal and I just can't have it anymore. Insert sad face here. Anyhow, I digress... I love a good sturdy hunk of wood, because I feel like they are so multipurpose, you know?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$150-$200

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 4 sheets of  ¾” plywood or MDF
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for the plywood, optional
  • 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • 3 sets of concealed hinges
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 32-3/4” – Front Corners
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/4” x 32-3/4” - Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 75-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 75-1/2” – Bottom Front
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 2” x 16-1/4” – Bottom Supports
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 30” x 75-1/2” - Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 22” - Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 75-1/2” – Drawer Shelf
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 25-1/4” - Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 23-1/2” – Center Shelf
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Upper Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 77” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 21” – Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 22-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/8” x 23-11/16” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/8” x 24-1/8” – Center Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 21-3/4” x 23-11/16” – Doors
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 21-3/4” x 24-1/8” – Center Door
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 If using edge banding, it will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the front corners and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes along one long edge of the side pieces. Secure the front corners to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the bottom and the bottom front. The bottom front piece will be secured to the bottom piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The lower edges of each piece will be flush with each other.

Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends of the bottom piece. Position the bottom piece 2” up from the bottom of the sides and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the bottom supports and drill pocket holes along one long edge of each piece. (Pocket holes are not shown in the drawing.) Secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back edge of the supports will be flush with the back edge of the bottom.

Step 3

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the side edges as well as the bottom edge. Secure to the sides and bottom of the cabinets using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the dividers and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges, as well as the back edge. Secure to the bottom and back as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the piece for the drawer shelf and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Secure to the sides, back, and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. 

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end as well as the back edge of each shelf. Position inside the cabinet as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer dividers and drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges – note that at least one piece will have the pocket holes opposite the other pieces so there will be a right and a left. These pieces will act as the drawer slide spacers. Install the spacers first, using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws (add a few brad nails through the front corner into the spacers), then install the dividers. 

Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers, sides, back, and front corners. 

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Installthe drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions . 

 

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. It may be easier to install the outer drawer fronts first, then install the center drawer front last. The bottom of the drawer fronts will be flush with the bottom of the drawer shelf

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors as well as in between them.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
13
2014
Project Details

This set of plans is for a Queen sized rustic slatted bed and I'm crushing on this baby a ton! For a gal who adores a bit of modern and vintage, I can still adore a bit of rustic style as well, and this bed is fab! I can't wait to see how you customize this beauty... Happy Building my friends! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 43 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 2’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 9 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x8 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 5 – 2x4 at 17-1/2” – Footboard Frame & Stabilizers
  • 4 – 2x4 at 68” – Footboard & Headboard Frame
  • 23 – 1x3 at 65” – Footboard & Headboard Slats
  • 2 – 2x4 at 40” – Headboard Frame & Stabilizers
  • 2 – 2x8 (ripped to 7-1/4” wide) at 82” – Side Rails
  • 4 – 2x4 at 82” – Side Rails
  • 1 – 2x2 at 82” – Center Support
  • 2 – 2x2 ay 10-1/4” – Center Support Legs
  • 20 – 1x3 at 63” - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the footboard frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the footboard slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Assemble as one panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert into the frame with the outside face flush with the outside face of the frame, then secure using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the stabilizers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Attach to the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the stabilizers will be flush with the inside face of the frame.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the headboard frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the headboard slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge of each piece. Assemble as one panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert into the frame with the outside face flush with the outside face of the frame, then secure using glue and 1-1/4”pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the stabilizers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Attach to the frame using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the stabilizers will be flush with the inside face of the frame.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the side rails. Drill pocket holes in each long edge of the 2x8 pieces. Attach the 2x4 pieces using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the 2x8 will be located 1” in from the inside face of the 2x4 pieces. Install the bed rail hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the center support and legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the support as well as one end of each leg. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the support to the center of the headboard and footboard using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Do not use glue!

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the slats. Position the slats on the lower 2x4 of the side rails and secure using countersunk 1-1/2” screws. Do not use glue!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Jan
08
2014
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build an Oslo 3 Drawer Dresser. I'm going through a phase in my current design sensibilities that longs for a simplified style of furniture and decor, with a bit of a nod to the past and our design roots as a global society. I am loving pieces like this dresser that aren't fussy and will still stand the test of time with clean lines and minimal detailing. It helps that this fabulous combo also packs a light punch to the old wallet and remains both relatively easy to build and low in cost. Are you craving a more streamlined lifestyle right now too?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 3 – 1x10 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x10 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 3 sets of 16” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 34-1/2” – Bottom
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Bottom Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 36” – Bottom Frame
  • 4 – 2x2 at 4-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 34-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 34-1/4” x 34-1/2” – Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 34-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 36” – Top
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 32” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – 1x10 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 6 – 1x10 at 33-1/2” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/4” x 36” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the bottom panel and the bottom frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket hole in each end of the shorter 1x2 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom panel. Assemble the panel as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Insert the panel then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the panel will be flush with the top edge of the frame.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Position them on the underside of the bottom snug against the frame in each corner. Secure using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the bottom into the legs.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the top and bottom edges. Secure to the bottom frame locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the bottom frame.

Step 4

 Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the panel. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6

 Cut the piece for the top. The front and sides will overhang by ½”. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the sides and back.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Starting with the bottom drawer front, position it with a 1/8” gap at the bottom then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Position the next drawer fronts in the same manner with a 1/8” gap between them and secure the same way. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
29
2013
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Harcombe Table. I'm on the hunt for a new kitchen table for my kitchen nook and I am wanting to build something a tad different. This might be a fabulous choice in that it can easily be a style that is lasting depending on the wood type and finish you choose, yet it is unique enough to not be boring after 5 minutes. I can envision this beauty in a reclaimed wood look or perhaps a bright shiny modern white... It's just so hard to pull the trigger and decide on what to make, there are so many options... eek Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg jig
  • Brad nailer
Lumber
  • 14 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¼” plywood
  • 3 full sheets of ¼” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 2” screws
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x2 at 84” – Top Frame
  • 6 – 1x2 at 40-1/2” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 2x2 at 40-1/2” – Top Frame
  • 8 – 1x2 at 11-1/4” – Top Frame
  • 3 – 1x2 at 11” – Top Frame
  • 7 – 1x2 at 10-3/4” – Top Frame
  • 4 – 1x2 at 28-1/2” – Leg Frames
  • 4 – 1x2 at 40-1/2” – Leg Frames
  • 8 – 1x2 at 27” – Leg Frames
  • 4 – 1x2 at 4” – Leg Frames
  • 4 – 1x2 at 8” – Leg Frames
  • 4 – ¼” plywood at 28-1/2” x 40-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – ¼” plywood at 11-3/4” x 42” - Underside
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 42” x 56-1/2” - Underside
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 42” x 84” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the top frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the two 84” pieces and the two 2x2 pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The 2x2 pieces will be secured using countersunk 2” screws from the outside into the end of each piece. The smaller pieces will be staggered to offer additional support.

Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the leg frames and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces except for the 40-1/2” pieces. Drill pocket holes in one end only of each of the 4” and 8” pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The horizontal 27” pieces in the center will be added last to allow room to drive the pocket hole screws in the 4” and 8” pieces. Secure the end of the 4” and 8” ends (opposite the pocket hole screws) using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

The legs frames will be secured to the 2x2 pieces in the top frame using glue and several 2” screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the leg covering from the ¼” plywood. Secure to each side of each leg frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4

 Cut the plywood pieces for the underside of the table top. Secure to the underside of the top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5

 Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Fill any gaps in the edges of the top and legs using wood filler or Dry Dex.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
27
2013
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans: Complete Instructions on How to Build a Naldi Stemware Rack. The perfect companion piece for your bar cart. Hang nearby for easy, yet gorgeously displayed access to your stemware! Now you can use the bar cart for bottle service and get those glasses up and out of the way for a convenient serving and cocktail making station. This build is both easy and budget friendly but best of all it solves the pesky problem of how you store your wine and champagne glasses. No more '1 up - 1 down' storing of your stemware to make the most of your space...

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • ¾” holesaw or paddle bit
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 4 Eye bolt
  • Chain
  • Ceiling hook for hanging the rack
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x2 at 25” – Rack Frame
  • 3– 1x2 at 10” – Rack Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 10-1/4” – Rack Frame
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the rack. Using the holesaw or paddle bit, mark the position for the holes in each piece. Use a jigsaw to cut straight lines from the holes to the edges of each board for the notches.

Step 2

 Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter boards Locate the pocket holes so the screws will not interfere with the notches. Some of the pocket holes may start in the notches themselves (as with the outer side pieces) but this will not matter as the pocket holes will not be seen.

Step 3

 Insert the eye bolts into each top corner of the frame, then attach the chain. The length of the chain will depend on how low the frame hangs down. Use all safety precautions when hanging the rack from a hook!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Dec
20
2013
Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Project Details

We have such a special treat today my lovely fellow builders! I've teamed up with one of my favorite sweet friends, Lindsay of Makely Home to bring you a gorgeous set of plans! She has worked so very hard on this beauty so I hope you will head over to visit her and gush over her build! She will be sharing more beautiful images and details there! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Tools
Lumber
  • 1 1/2 sheets of ¾” plywood (2nd sheet - only need 2'x2' area)
  • 1 sheet 1/2" plywood
  • 1 sheet 1/4" plywood (or if your store will sell you a 1/2 sheet at 2'x8' then awesome)
  • 1- 2x6 at 6'
  • 2- 2x3 at 8' (1 front/back + 2 side per board)
  • 4- 1x6 at 8' (3 at 26  1/2 + 1 at 16 1/4 per board for 2 boards, then 5 at 16 1/4 per board)
  • 2- 1x8 at 8' (3 per board)
Materials
Cut List
  • 4- 2x4 at 7 3/4" legs
  • 4- 2x3 at 15 3/4" frame rails
  • 2- 2x3 at 51 1/4" frame front/back
  • 6- 1x6 at 26 1/2" drawer backs
  • 12- 1x6 at 16 1/4" drawer sides
  • 6- 1x8 at 27 11/16" drawer front
  • 2- 3/4" ply at 20"x22 1/4" sides
  • 2- 3/4" ply at 20"x57 1/4" top/bottom
  • 1- 3/4" ply at 19 1/4" x 22 1/4" center
  • 6- 1/2" ply at 26 1/2" x 5 3/4" drawer faces
  • 6-1/2" ply at 26 1/2" x 17" drawer bottoms
  • 1- 1/4" ply at 57 1/4" x 22 1/4" back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for age

Step 1

Use a 2x6 to cut your leg pieces. Create your guidelines as seen in the second image below and cut as indicated. Use a circular saw if possible.

Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Leg Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 2

Build your frame. Use 2 ½” pocket hole screws and glue to connect. The outside rails will sit flush against the leg pieces. The inner rails should sit approximately 16 ½” apart, but this is not a crucial dimension, just space them as evenly as possible.

Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 3

Build your Box. The side panels will sit inside the top and bottom panels and they will sit flush on the front, yet set in ¼” on the back side. This will allow for the back panel later. The bottom of your box will overhang your base by ¾” all the way around. Use 1 ¼” pocket hole screws with your pocket hole jig set for ¾” material and your pocket holes along the top and bottom of the panel (on the inside), and glue to fasten.

Main Box for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 4

Fasten the Center Panel in Place. The center panel will sit back ¾” on the front side and ¼” on the back side and should be centered as precisely as possible between the side panels. Use 1 ¼” pocket hole screws with your pocket hole jig set for ¾” material and your pocket holes along the top and bottom of the panel, and glue to fasten. 

Center Panel for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 5

Build Your Drawer Boxes. You will make of these 6 exactly the same way. In step 9, your drawer fronts will differ in their placement for 3 of your 6 drawers, but in this step and the next they are identical. The bottom will sit flush with the outside perimeter of the sides and back and can be secured using your brad nails and glue or 1” wood screws with a countersink bit to predrill and glue.  

Drawer Box for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 6

Secure your Drawer Faces and Attach Drawer Glides. The faces will be cut to size from your ½” plywood, and will sit flush with the drawer box on the top, sides, and bottom. The drawer glide should sit 3” up from the bottom of the box and 1” back from the front edge once the face has been attached.

Drawer Face for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 7

Cut and Notch Your Drawer Fronts. Cut your fronts to size and then notch out the handle area using a jig saw. Do not attach Drawer Fronts to the drawers themselves yet.

Drawer Front Cutout for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 8

Attach Drawer Glides to Side and Center Panels. Attach Glides in locations indicated below.  Work from the back for your measurements so they all end up at the same location (the center panel is set back farther than the sides from the front edge, so the dimensions are different from that side).  There will be 1/8” spacing around all edges of each drawer front and the placement of the drawer glides takes this into consideration.  For the bottom and center pair of drawer glides, measurements are from the bottom and back edge of the side and center panels and line up with the bottom edge of the drawer glides. For the top pair 2 of drawer glides the measurements are either from the top and back edge of the side and center panels or the bottom and back edges if you prefer, BUT they should still align with the bottom edge of the drawer glide.  All glides should sit 2 ¼” in from the back edge.  

**Also noted on the diagram below is the relative space each drawer will occupy including the 1/8” spacing on the bottom for each drawer, except for the top drawers which will have an additional 1/8” spacing on the top as well.

Drawer Glides for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 9

Insert Drawers. Line up the drawer glides and insert drawers in their respective locations. In the diagram below, the drawer front is attached, however you will actually attach the drawer front once the drawers have been inserted into the unit so you can adjust for any amount you might be ‘off’.

Drawer Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 10

Attach Drawer Fronts. You can do this after you have your drawers installed so that you can adjust for any slight discrepancies, but the location of the drawer fronts should be approximately what you see shown below in the diagram. There will be 1/8” spacing between the outside edge of the drawer front and the inside edge of the side panels on your box. There will also be 1/8” spacing above and below each drawer. There will be 1/8” spacing between the left and right drawers as well, but since they divide the space remaining, the overhang on the inside edges of your drawer fronts will be different than on the outside edges so I recommend using the outside edges as your guide. The Fronts will sit flush with the drawer on the bottom edge, will overhang 1 ½” on the top and 3/8” on the outside edge. The drawer shown below in the diagram would be a drawer for left hand side of your unit if you are facing your unit. These measurements for the overhang will be on the other side for the right hand side drawers. Attach drawer fronts with 1 1/4” brad nails and glue, where the front meets the sides of your drawer box (otherwise the nails will stick out the back of the drawer face).

Drawer Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Step 11

Attach the Back Panel. Use 1 ¼” brad nails and glue to attach your back to the side and center panels. 

Back Panel for Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Steppe 6 Drawer Dresser
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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