Mar
28
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, this plan is a great one for adding that extra bit of storage when you prefer to go vertical rather than horizontal. Sometimes horizontal wall space is at a premium... especially if you live in my house. Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 6’
  • 7 – 1x6 at 8’
  • Scrap of 2x2 at 15-3/4”
  • 3 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 2 sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  4 – 4x4 posts at 46-3/4” – Legs
  • 2 – 1x4 at 13” – Side Frames
  • 2 – 2x4 at 13” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13” x 40-1/2” – Side Panels
  • 10 – 1x2 at 13” – Drawer Spacers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 35” x 42-3/4” - Back
  • 5 – 2x4 at 35” - Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x4 at 6-1/2” – Center Drawer Divider
  • 1 – 1x4 at 35” – Upper Stretcher
  • 1 – 2x2 at 15-3/4” – Center Drawer Spacer
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 42” - Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/4” x 16-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 12 – 1x6 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 4 – 1x6 at 15-3/4” – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 32-1/2” – Large Drawer Box Bottoms
  • 8 – 1x6 at 34” – Large Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-1/4” x 16-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 6-3/4” x 34-3/4” – Large Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs, the side frames, and the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 2x4 frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the 1x4 frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Secure the frame pieces to the legs, then secure the panel to the legs and the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front face of the panels will be located 1” back from the outside face of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the spacers (the side with the pocket holes) will be flush with the inside of the legs.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each shorter edge. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 3

Cut the 2x4 pieces for the stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the drawer divider and drill pocket holes in the lower end only. Secure to the uppermost stretcher as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4

Cut the 1x4 piece for the upper stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the upper stretcher into the top of the drawer divider to further secure them in place.

Cut the 2x2 piece for the center drawer spacer. Drill pocket holes in one end only of the 2x2 inner frame piece. Secure to the drawer divider using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Use a few 1-1/4” brad nails through the back into the back end of the 2x2 frame piece. The bottom of the drawer spacer will be flush with the top of the stretcher.

Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Secure the top to the desk frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top. 

Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer boxes as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides.

Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Mar
21
2014
Project Details

By special reader request, a tower shelving unit to use as a stand alone bar! Isn't it dreamy? I absolutely love this idea, you guys are so clever! Ps... we will hopefully have our forum back up and running and (fingers crossed) working better than ever here soon. It will be a place you enjoy hanging out I think and the perfect place for you to request plans, ask questions, and share your amazing knowledge! 

In the meantime, TDC has partnered with Kleenex to share how lovely their new designs are. Thank you guys for clicking over to check them out. It's partnerships like these that help keep the blog wheels turning and the plans and articles publishing each week! You can see my #KleenexStyle here, as well as another sneak peek of my master bedroom overhaul. It's going to be soooo good you guys! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 7 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 2 - sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 1 - 8’ piece of decorative trim approx. ¾” x ¾”
Materials
Cut List
  •  6 – 1x2 at 15” – Lower Shelf Trim & Lower Top
  • 4 – 1x2 at 27” – Lower Shelf Trim
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 27” – Lower Shelves & Lower Top
  • 4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – Lower Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/8” x 27” – Lower Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 17-3/8” – Lower Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 15” – Drawer Spacers
  • 3 – 1x2 at 27” – Lower Stretchers & Upper Stretcher
  • 1 – 1x2 at 12-1/8” – Lower Divider
  • 2 – 1x2 at 30” – Lower Top Trim
  • 4 – 1x2 at 49-1/4” – Upper Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 27” x 49-1/4” – Upper Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 16-1/2” – Upper Side Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 32” – Upper Top
  • Upper trim cut to fit
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/4” x 27” – Upper Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottom
  • 2 – 1x3 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Sides
  • 2 – 1x3 at 26” – Drawer Box Front & Back
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 26-3/4” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-7/8” x 12-7/8” – Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

 Cut the pieces for the lower shelves, the lower shelf trim, and the lower legs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the trim pieces, as well as all four edges of the shelf pieces. Secure the trim pieces to the shelves using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Secure the shelves to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the lower back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the legs and the upper shelf using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the back piece will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the legs and the upper shelf using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the sides will be flush with the side faces of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers. Position as shown, then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the lower divider. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the stretcher and the shelf trim.

Step 5

 Cut the trim pieces and the panel for the lower top. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the top, as well as each end of the shorter trim pieces. Secure the trim pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Position the lower top so that it is flush with the legs, sides, back, and stretcher. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the upper legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of two of the legs (for the back) and one end only of the remaining two. Secure them at each corner of the lower top (with the pocket holes facing to the back) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the upper back and drill pocket holes in the side and bottom edges. Secure to the legs and the lower top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the back piece will be flush with the back face of the legs.

Step 8

Cut the pieces for the upper stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the upper top. The piece will overhang by 1” at the sides and front. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the upper trim. There are no dimensions given because it will depend on the type of trim that is chosen. Cut and install the sides first, securing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then cut and install the front.

Step 9

Install the shelving standards on the upper back locating them approximately 8” from the center of the back. (See the manufacturer’s installation instructions) Install the shelf brackets, then cut the shelves and set in place.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the legs. Make any necessary adjustments. Cut the pieces for the drawer front. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull.

Step 11

Cut the pieces for the doors. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the doors. Install the hinges on the doors, then mark and install the hinges on the legs. Install the cabinet pulls.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post contains affiliate links

Mar
17
2014
Project Details

A great way to store those toys both little and big! You can stack these units up by two or three and add that much more storage to your space. When in doubt always go vertical! You can view our other plans for stylish storage options and plans for coordinating children's furniture too! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – ¼” x 2” lathe strip at 4’
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • Scrap of 2x2 at least 16” long
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
  • ¾” x 1-1/2” trim at 8’ for lower portion (the trim can be made by routing a decorative edge on a 1x2)
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17” x 18-1/2” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/8” x 35-1/2” - Bottom
  • 1 – 2x2 at 15-1/4” – Lower Support
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/4” x 35-1/2” - Back
  • 1 – 1x2 at 35-1/2” – Lower Front Support
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/4” x 17-1/4” – Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 35-1/2” – Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 12-3/4” x 38-1/2” - Top
  • 1 – ¼” x 2” lathe strip at 37” – Upper Trim
  • 2 – ¾” x 1-1/2” trim for sides (measure and cut to fit)
  • 1 – ¾” x 1-1/2” trim for front (measure and cut to fit)
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides. Cut the piece as a square first, then draw out the angles and cut them using a jigsaw or bandsaw.

Step 2

Cut the piece for the bottom and cut a 26° bevel in the front edge. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the lower portion of the sides as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the 2x2 piece for the support. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom into the support.

Step 4

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in the bottom as well as the sides. Secure to the bottom and sides of the bin using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5

Cut the 1x2 piece for the lower front support. Secure to the bottom and sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 6

Cut the piece for the divider. Using the same method as the sides, cut the piece as a square first, then cut the angles. Drill pocket holes in the bottom and back edges. Secure to the bottom and back of the bin using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 7

Cut the piece for the front and cut a 26° bevel in the bottom edge. Secure the piece using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the front and through the front into the divider.

Step 8

Cut the piece for the top. The sides and front will overhang by ¾” and the back will remain flush. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9

Cut the lathe strip for the upper trim. Secure to the sides and the divider using glue and 1” brad nails.

Step 10

Cut the pieces for the lower trim. No measurements are given because it will depend if the pieces will have a square cut at the ends or a miter cut. Measure and cut the sides to fit first, then measure and cut the front. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Mar
12
2014
Project Details

I have been wanting a bar cart for a long time, haven't you? If I can't have my vintage dream, which it seems I can't, a handbuilt beauty is perhaps an even better option since I get the satisfaction of making it! The cart can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal if you wish, and it would be so dreamy in brass, don't you think? Xx... Rayan

Sponsored // Psst... You can check out your #KleenexStyle by clicking here and discover the perfect design to suit your decor. No more hiding those boxes during this up coming sinus season... can I get a yahoo for that?

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 8 – ¾” square dowels at 3’ (or pieces ripped from a 1x board)
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’ (or 2 – 2x4 ripped in half)
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 27-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 30-1/2” – Legs
  • 1 – 2x2 at 23” - Handle
  • 4 – 2x2 at 20” – Leg Frames
  • 2 – 2x2 at 34-1/2” - Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 34-1/2” – Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” square dowels at 20” - Rails
  • 2 – ¾” square dowels at 34-1/2” - Rails
  • 28 – ¾” square dowels at 5” - Spindles
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well the top edge of the longer legs. Do not drill pocket holes in the handle piece. Attach the frame pieces to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the handle to the longer legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the end frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each piece. Secure to the stretchers and frame pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers and frame pieces.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the rails. Drill one pocket hole in each end of the longer pieces. Mark the position for the spindles on the longer pieces, then secure the spindles using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Mark the position for the spindles on the stretchers and frame pieces. Secure the rail assemblies to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Align the spindles with the marks on the stretchers and frame pieces, then secure them using toenailed 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5

Attach the casters to the bottom of the legs according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial on installing casters, click here.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

//Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. //Post contains affiliate links

Feb
21
2014
Project Details

You know I love an interesting dining table, as evidenced by my most recent build here. I love the intricate seeming nature of this table's base, especially since I know it isn't all that difficult to construct, but would certainly seem so... Xx... Rayan

 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 23 – 1x2 at 8’ (it may be more economical to purchase 8 – 1x6 at 8’ and rip strips on the table saw to 1-1/2” wide)
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 18 – 1x2 at 48” – Base Frame
  • 18 – 1x2 at 14-1/4” – Base Frame
  • 6 – 1x2 at 29-1/4” – Base Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 84” – Top Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 38-1/4” – Top Frame
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 41-1/4” x 84” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Cut the pieces for the base frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter 1x2 pieces. Assemble the frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Draw a ¾” radius at each corner and cut out with a jigsaw. Sand the edges thoroughly.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs.  It will be easier to mark the position for all of the frames on the back side of each leg at the spacing shown (adding for the thickness of the frames), and pre-drill the holes for the screws. Working on a flat surface, attach the legs to the first frame with the bottoms flush, using glue and countersunk 2” screws.  Orient the pocket holes in the frame so they face down. Position the next frame, then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws. Continue “layering” the frames. The last frame should be flush with the top of the legs.

Another tip – cut spacers equal to the distance between the frames to help hold the frames in place as they are being secured.

Step 3

Cut the 1x2 pieces for the top frame. Cut a 45° bevel in one long edge of each piece, as well as each end of the longer 1x2 pieces. Secure to the bottom edge of the plywood piece for the top using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The bevels will face out.

Step 4

With the bottom face of the top facing up, flip the base over and position it on the top. The base will sit 18” in from each side and 12” in from each long edge. Secure using 1-1/2” screws through the upper frame in the base into the top

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Feb
19
2014
Project Image
Project Details

On Monday I shared the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Outdoor Sofa, and today the matching chair! That is pretty exciting my friends, and I feel like we can help usher in the warmer temps just by sending those positive springtime thoughts out into the universe, don't you? A little mind over matter, yeah? No? Well then, I suppose we will just have to settle for living the dream since it doesn't seem the weather is going to cooperate for many of you, any time soon. At least you can get a jump start on your springtime builds though, and be ready for the even first hint of warmth. That is definitely something.... Xx... Rayan

Now that we have finished out the collection you can find the Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Outdoor Coffee Table and Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Nova Outdoor End Table and round out your set! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
Lumber
  • 15 – 1x2 at 8’ (It may be cheaper to buy 5 – 1x6 at 8’ then rip them into 1x2 strips on the table saw)
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 2 – 2x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x8 at 4’
  • 1 half sheet of ½” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  6- 2x6 (ripped to 5-1/2” wide) at 21-3/4” – Legs
  • 1 – 2x2 at 31-1/2” – Back Stretcher
  • 2 – 2x2 at 25-1/2” – Inner Back & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – 2x8 (ripped to 6” wide) at 34-1/2” – Upper Back
  • 3 – 2x2 at 23” – Seat Supports
  • 2 – 2x2 at 7-3/4” – Inner Side Slat Support
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 26” x 28-1/2” - Seat
  • 2 – 2x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 23” – Arms
  • 1 – 1x3 at 25-1/2” – Inner Back Slat
  • 3 – 1x2 at 28-1/2” – Inner Back Slats
  • 2 – 1x3 at 23-3/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 6 – 1x2 at 23-3/4” – Inner Side Slats
  • 4 – 1x3 at 30-1/2” – Side Slats
  • 18 – 1x2 at 30-1/2” – Side Slats
  • 3 – 1x3 at 36” – Back & Front Slats
  • 15 – 1x2 at 36” – Back & Front Slats
  • 2 – 1x3 at 6” – Upper Front Slats
  • 6 – 1x2 at 6” – Upper Front Slats
  • 2 – 1x8 (ripped to 6” wide at 32”) - Trim
  • 1 – 1x8 at 36” - Trim
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for two of the legs and the back stretcher. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher as well as the top edge and one long edge of each leg.(There will be a left and a right!) Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the remaining two back legs and drill pocket holes in the top edge only. Attach the inner back legs to the outer back legs (in an L shape) using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner back stretcher and the upper back. Drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher then attach as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the upper back piece to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the pieces for the front legs and stretcher, and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher as well as the top edge only of the legs. Assemble as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the seat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the front and inner back stretchers using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the inner slat supports and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the outer seat supports as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. They will be positioned ¾” away from the inner back legs.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut the notches using a jigsaw, then secure to the seat supports using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the arms and drill pocket holes at one end only. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket holes.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the inner back slats. The 1x3 slat will be shorter than the 1x2 slats. Position the 1x3 slat between the inner back legs then secure in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The 1x2s will be positioned between the inner back leg and the inner side slat support. Position the 1x2 slats with ½” spacing between them then secure using glue and countersunk 2” screws through the support into the slats.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the inner side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the outer side slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 9
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the outer back slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Cut the pieces for the front slats. Position as shown with ½” spacing between them, then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 10
Step 10
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the trim. The back trim piece angles should be cut at 39 degrees and the side trim piece angles should be cut at 51 degrees, provided the chair is square! Cut each a piece a little longer than the dimensions and play with the angles if necessary!

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. //Posts may contain affiliate links

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