Intermediate

Using the 2x2 pieces, cut the legs as indicated.  Set the Kreg jig for 1½”material and drill pocket holes in one end only of each piece.

Cut the pieces for the sides. They will overlap the top of the legs by 1-1/2”. Use glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the drawer slides to the insides of each assembly. They should be located ¾” back from the side edge. See drawing.

Cut the pieces for the side aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the aprons ¾” down from the top of the leg with the face flush with the face of the legs. Use glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

 Cut the pieces for the top and the top aprons. Attach an apron to one 32-3/4” edge of each top piece with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Attach to the underside of the table top locating one end flush with the front apron and 3/8” back from the side. See drawing.

 Attach the drawer slide to the outside face of the slide support on the top. The end of the drawer slide should be flush with the inside of the table top apron. There will be a 1/8” gap around the sides and in the center of the tops.

 Cut two 1x2 pieces to use as connectors to keep the top from sliding apart. These pieces will serve dual-duty as they will be used to secure the leaf in place once inserted. Drill two countersunk holes in each piece and fasten in place with 1” screws. Do not use glue!  Even though it isn’t shown in the picture, it would be a good idea to use four connectors – two at each end, staggered so they don’t hit each other. 

Cut the piece for the leaf. To insert leaf, remove one screw from each connector making sure they are opposite of each other. In other words, do not remove a screw on the same side, one connector will need to stay attached to each top piece. Insert the leaf and reinsert the screws in the connectors to hold in place.  See Drawing.

Draw out the back leg on the piece of lauan or hardboard to create a template.

• To make a template:

Draw your piece on a scrap of ¼” lauan or hardboard. Cut it out with a jigsaw and smooth any rough edges with a sander. Check the fit of the template against any pieces already built. For example, if it is a back chair leg template, the chair should already be constructed to this point. Any adjustments that need to be made can be made to the template before cutting the actual lumber. Drill a hole in the template for hanging and label it for later use.

• To cut out your piece with a template:

Trace the template onto your piece of lumber and roughly cut out the shape making sure to stay outside of the lines. Attach the template to the piece with strong double-sided tape. Using a router and a flush trim bit, make sure you set the height of the bit so the guide will run along the edge of the template. Cut around the template.  Depending on the length of your bit, you may have to make more than one pass around the template. In other words, if the piece you are cutting is 1½” deep and your bit is 1” deep, you will cut the piece around the template. Adjust the depth of the bit, then make another pass with the router. The guide bearing will not follow the template the second time but will follow the piece that has already been cut. Clear as mud? Here is a great demo on how to do this: http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-use-router-templates-and-bearing-guides/index.html

Using a template will make your pieces more consistent and uniform, and you’ll have it in case you decide to build more than one!

To remove the adhesive, use a product like Un-du which will not harm the material you are using.

Place the template on the 1x4s for the back legs and cut out.

Cut out the 1x2 for the upper back and the 1x3 for the back apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the back pieces. Attach to back legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the spacing indicated. The back side of these pieces should be flush with the back edge of the legs. 

Cut out the pieces for the remaining aprons and the front legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of the apron pieces. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws as shown. Don’t forget to check for square!

 Cut the pieces for the spindles from the ¾” dowels. Drill one pocket hole in each end of the back edge. Attach to the chair with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the spacing indicated.

Cut the piece for the seat. Cut ¾” x ¾” notches at each end of the back to allow for the back legs. Attach to the seat frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws, making sure the face of the sides is flush with the face of the legs.

Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws making sure the face of the back is flush with the back of the legs.

Cut the pieces for the front supports. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The top support will need to be positioned so it is flush with the top of the legs. The lower support will be located 4” below the top support. See drawing.

Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. The longer support will be in the middle. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side supports and in one end of the middle support. The front of the middle support will be located ¾” back from the face of the lower front support. Secure with a countersunk 1-1/4” screw from the bottom of the front support. See Drawing.

** If using edge banding, apply it to the exposed edges of the drawer fronts and top before assembly**

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces and construct the drawers as shown. The bottoms will be attached with glue and brad nails. Install the drawer slides 3/4" back from the front edge of the lower support to allow for the drawer front. Make any adjustments necessary.

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. One of the fronts is 1/8” shorter than the other to allow for a 1/8” gap. Cut the notch in the center of each drawer front with a jigsaw. Shim the drawer fronts in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and fasten to the drawer boxes with 1-1/4” screws from the inside.

Cut the piece for the top. Fasten to the desk with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. 

** If using edge banding, apply it to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly**

Cut the pieces for the sides and all of the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each of the 14-1/2” ends of the shelves. Starting with the top, attach the shelves to the tower box with the spacing as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the back. Attach the back with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. If using multiple scraps for the back, make sure the seams are hidden behind the shelves!

Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces and construct the drawer as shown. The bottom will be attached with glue and brad nails. The drawer slides will need to be located ¾” back from the front edge to allow for the drawer front. Install the drawer slides and make any adjustments necessary.

Cut the pieces for the drawer front. Cut the notch in the center of each drawer front with a jigsaw. Shim the drawer front in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and fasten to the drawer box with 1-1/4” screws from the inside.

Cut the piece for the door. Cut the notch with a  jigsaw and attach the hinges to the door. Shim the door in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door) and attach the hinges to the tower

Cut the pieces for the base. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the base pieces. Attach the base pieces to the legs. Attach the base to the bottom of the cabinet using countersunk 1-1/4” screws and with a 1” “border” around all sides of the base.