Sep
03
2014
Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet

I needed something to fill this empty space in my kitchen and the Clara Buffet was perfect! For this project, I chose to use oak, a red stain with brown and black accents, and brushed nickel hardware.

As always, thank you to TDC for the great plans and thanks for reading! Also, check out my blog post (link below) for a lot more build pictures and thoughts on each building step!

Here are images of the piece mostly assembled without the doors or drawers. As you can see, everything has already been finished to avoid tight corners. Drilling the space for the door hinges...this was nerve racking! As you can see I taped around the area to avoid any damage to the rest of the finish. This plus the flange on the hinge hid any defects. You can see the gusset  I added to the top inside edge of the side panels (see modifications section). This is what I secured the top with on the edges and it worked great.

Assembly with shelves and drawer frames added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Gusset added to top inside edge of side panels to screw down the top from the beneath for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
I bought a kit/template for drilling these holes which was a lifesaver for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

Lumber was right over $200. Hardware, drawer slides, hinges, and staining materials were probably another $150 bringing the total to $350. Still a steep discount to the original!

Length of Time 

This is hard to estimate, but I'd say 20+ hours because of all the finishing work. Actual cutting and assembly of the piece was MUCH short and could probably be done in a weekend.

Modifications 

I made a few modifications to the plans for multiple reasons:

Shelves:

First, I eliminated the top set of shelves since they really only serve to enclose the space where the drawers go. Instead I used 1x2's to mimic the front edge of where the top shelves would have been. This provided rigidity to the piece and kept the look the same. 

Second, I had to slice off 3/4" from the indicated depth for the main shelves in the plans. Reason being, the plans call for the shelves to be set back this distance so that the doors can close but all four shelf pieces are dimensioned for the entire depth of the cabinet on the cut sheet.

Legs:

The plans call for 4x4's on the legs but I chose to try and recreate the original legs as closely as possible utilizing hardwood. This was for asthetics only and the original plans could be used with no issues here.

Top Connection:

I realized during assembly that I had not predrilled vertical pocket holes in the side panels to attach the top. Fortunately I had two 3/4" wide pieces of stained/finished plywood that I had sliced off the back of the shevles. I used these as gussets on the top inside edge of the side panels to secure the top from beneath which worked great.

Lumber Used 

As mentioned before, I used oak for almost every piece in the project besides the back for which I used birch plywood, the drawer boxes which are pine, and a couple of non-visible cross braces which are also pine.

Oak is a different animal working with but I really enjoyed the results. Make sure your cordless drills have good batteries! This stuff will eat up a battery real quick!

Finishing Technique 

The finish here was not difficult, but takes time. It consisted of red gel stain, brown glaze, black glaze, and final lacquer with sanding sealer sprayed on between each step. All stains and glazes were brushed on and wiped off.

I chose to prefinish all the individual pieces before assembly to avoid difficulties with tight corners. This had advantages and disadvantages; The former being that we achieved a very uniform and professional finish on the entire piece. Disadvantages to this technique include difficulties surrounding utilization of pocket hole plugs (see my blog), needing a very large space in order to stage all the pieces while drying, and needing to be careful during assembly. 

Gel Stain Added - Kind of red right now!..Glaze to the rescue for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Weighing down the back with all the panels to get the bend out of the plywood! for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Phew that's better; Brown and Black Glazes Added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Drawers and drawer slides added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Final assembled piece with all hardware added for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Final assembled piece in new space for Reader Showcase // John's PB Inspired Clara Buffet
Jun
10
2014
Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Round Provence Beam Outdoor Dining Table

My dad brought me a bunch of redwood that had been leftover from a deck he had built. It sat around for a while before I woke up one morning with a grand idea to build a table with it. I have never built anything out of wood before but have always wanted to! I was very excited to get started right away. We have a spot in our backyard that really needs a round table (not rectangular or square) so it was important to me that the table be round. 

 

I did a google search for how to build a round picnic type table. After looking at several different options, I found The Design Confidential and this 48" Provence table plan. It looked like exactly what I was looking for, but I still wasn't sure I had what it would take to complete it!

 

Estimated Cost 

This project likely cost me a little more than stated in the plans because of the fact that I didn't have all the tools necessary to begin, such as the sander and a jigsaw blade.

 

Length of Time 

4 days

Modifications 

I didn't want my table to be quite as tall as was listed in the plans, so I shortened the length of the middle post by several inches under what is stated. Also, I was starting with 24" long 2"x6" pieces of redwood so I had to secure those to a 48" base in order to use them as the table top. I bought a piece 1/4" plywood (I think that thickness) and cut it into a 48" circle, Then using liquid nails, I glued the boards to the top the way I wanted them to be arranged. I then flipped it over and nailed the bottom so all the boards were secure. Since the boards were all still 24", I had a lot of over hang so I propped this up, facedown, on some bricks and cut around the circle with my jigsaw to match the piece of plywood.

 

I did not have a Kreg Jig as is indicated so I had to drill angled holes.

In retrospect, I should have used thicker plywood as this was a bit bendy until I was able to secure it to the base.

 

Lumber Used 

Redwood

Finishing Technique 

Sanding. I haven't yet stained or sealed it in the pictures posted, though I plan on doing so.

Tracing the Circle for Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Round Provence Beam Dining Table
Table Top for Support for Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Round Provence Beam Dining Table
Lumber for Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Round Provence Beam Dining Table
Table Top and Lumber for Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Round Provence Beam Dining Table
Table Top for Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Round Provence Beam Dining Table
Angled Table Base for Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Round Provence Beam Dining Table
Real Reader Showcase for The Design Confidential Round Provence Beam Dining Table
Mar
12
2014
Project Details

I have been wanting a bar cart for a long time, haven't you? If I can't have my vintage dream, which it seems I can't, a handbuilt beauty is perhaps an even better option since I get the satisfaction of making it! The cart can be painted with metallic paint to mimic metal if you wish, and it would be so dreamy in brass, don't you think? Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Tools
Lumber
  • 8 – ¾” square dowels at 3’ (or pieces ripped from a 1x board)
  • 4 – 2x2 at 8’ (or 2 – 2x4 ripped in half)
  • 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 27-1/2” – Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 30-1/2” – Legs
  • 1 – 2x2 at 23” - Handle
  • 4 – 2x2 at 20” – Leg Frames
  • 2 – 2x2 at 34-1/2” - Stretchers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 34-1/2” – Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” square dowels at 20” - Rails
  • 2 – ¾” square dowels at 34-1/2” - Rails
  • 28 – ¾” square dowels at 5” - Spindles
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and frames. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces, as well the top edge of the longer legs. Do not drill pocket holes in the handle piece. Attach the frame pieces to the legs as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach the handle to the longer legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the end frames using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of each piece. Secure to the stretchers and frame pieces as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers and frame pieces.

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the rails. Drill one pocket hole in each end of the longer pieces. Mark the position for the spindles on the longer pieces, then secure the spindles using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Mark the position for the spindles on the stretchers and frame pieces. Secure the rail assemblies to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Align the spindles with the marks on the stretchers and frame pieces, then secure them using toenailed 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 5

Attach the casters to the bottom of the legs according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial on installing casters, click here.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

//Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. //Post contains affiliate links

Dec
17
2013
Reader Showcase: Ecarps Finished Louis No Sew Custom Bar Stool

Here it is - after many weekends of the finished wood sitting on my work bench, it's been assembled and enjoyed.

Estimated Cost 

Raw materials, including new belt sander and a jig saw, were about $300 for 4 stools, including foam.

Length of Time 

From start to finish, 8 weeks, but true build time is about 7 days.

Modifications 

We opted for a ladder back to keep light and unobstructed views.

Lumber Used 

Hearthy Pine, we couldn't find 2" x 4", so we used 2" x 12" and cut it into thirds to make the rear legs.

Finishing Technique 

Putty, 80 grit, 120 grit, 200 grit, belt and palm sander, one coat of Sherwin Williams stain, one coat of polyurethane, sand again with 200 grit palm sander and one final coat of polyurethane.

Aug
28
2013
Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Bromley Desk. I just love a good desk with a fold down lid, don't you? I personally love the ability to hide stuff away when not in use so I can pretend it's not there and this baby gives me that option! Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 4’
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x6 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x12 at 8’
  • 3 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 Half sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1 – 40” continuous hinge
  • 4 – small cabinet pulls
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x2 at 29-3/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 19” – Leg Stretchers
  • 2 – 2x2 at 37” – Base Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x6 at 21-1/4” – Box Sides
  • 1 – 1x6 at 38-1/2” – Box Back
  • 2 – ½” plywood at 20-1/2” x 38-1/2” – Box Bottom & Shelf
  • 1 – 1x6 (ripped to 3-5/8” wide) at 9-1/2” – Drawer Divider
  • 1 – 1x12 (ripped to 10-1/4” wide) at 40” – Top
  • 2 – 1x4 at 10-5/8” – Hinged Top Sides
  • 1 – 1x12 (ripped to 10-5/8” wide) at 40” – Hinged Top
  • 1 – 1x6 (ripped to 4-3/4” wide) at 40” – Hinged Top Front
  • 2 – 1x10 (ripped to 8” wide) at 17-1/8” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – 1x4 at 8” – Drawer Sides
  • 4 – 1x4 at 18-5/8” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 1 – 1x2 (ripped to 1-1/4” wide) at 40” – Tray Front
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 38-1/4” - Tray
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

 Cut the pieces for the legs and leg stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the stretcher pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the base stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

 Cut the pieces for the box sides as shown. Cut the piece for the back, set the Kreg jig for ¾” material, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the back piece to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the piece for the box bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in each side as well as one long end. Attach to the box sides and back using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.

Position the box on the leg assembly as shown locating the box ¾” away from the front edge of the legs. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom into the legs, side stretchers, and upper base stretcher.

Step 3
Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the shelf and the drawer divider. Position the shelf as shown then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the outside of the sides and back of the box into the shelf. To help position the shelf, spacers can be cut from scrap lumber to keep everything in place!

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

 Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the box sides, back, and divider using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut the pieces for the tray. Drill pocket holes in the tray piece as shown, then attach the front piece. The top of the tray will be flush with the top of the front piece. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the tray to help it slide smoothly.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the hinged top. Cut the sides as shown. Attach the top to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The front will be ½” wider than the sides! Attach the hinged top to the box top using a continuous hinge cut to length. (It can be cut using a hacksaw.)

Step 6
Step 6
Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front and back in the same manner. Apply a coat of paste wax to the bottom of the drawers (this helps them slide smoothly) and insert the boxes into the openings – there will be a 1/8” gap at the sides and top. Install all of the cabinet pulls.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Aug
27
2013
Project Image
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
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