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May
27
2015
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans How to Build an Aegean Outdoor Sofa
Project Details

It's official... you need an outdoor living space for the summer months ahead, so go for it and build a super stylish sofa and solve your seating woes in just a few hours... I promise you will be so happy you did and so will I when you share your success with all of us in a showcase post.

// The cushion option here that will work best is the Threshold Outdoor Deep Seating Cushion which retails for $29 and five or six 18" toss pillows for the back. 

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans How to Build an Aegean Outdoor Sofa

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$125
Dimensions
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans How to Build an Aegean Outdoor Sofa
Tools
Lumber
  • 9 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’  
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x4 at 26” – End Tops
  • 4 – 2x4 at 19” – End Bottoms and End Middles
  • 4 – 2x4 at 21” – End Backs and End Fronts
  • 5 – 2x4 at 88” – Front Bottom, Back Bottom, and Back Slats
  • 1 – 2x4 (ripped down to 2-3/4”) at 88” – Seat Support
  • 1 – 2x4 at 6” – Seat Support Leg
  • 10 – 1x4 at 23” – Seat Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the End Fronts, End Backs, End Tops, End Bottoms, and End Middles. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the End Middles and End Bottoms and in the top ends of the End Fronts and End Backs. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Repeat this step twice - making the Ends mirror each other with pocket holes facing the inside - once for each end of the Sofa.  

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans How to Build an Aegean Outdoor Sofa
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Back Bottom and the Front Bottom. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Back Bottom and the Front Bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans How to Build an Aegean Outdoor Sofa
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Back Slats. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Back Slats. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans How to Build an Aegean Outdoor Sofa
Step 4

Cut the piece for the Seat Support and the Seat Support Leg. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Seat Support and in the top end of the Seat Support Leg. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans How to Build an Aegean Outdoor Sofa
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans How to Build an Aegean Outdoor Sofa
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Seat Slats. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Seat Slats. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket screws.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans How to Build an Aegean Outdoor Sofa
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

May
26
2015

My wife wanted to be able to have chairs on the ends so I extended the top by 14" over the frame.  We also wanted to be able to cover the gutter so we used $10 plastic planter boxes and I cut a 2x6 to drop into the gap.  There is a 2" hole towards the center to be able to pull the lids off.  We did the entire thing in cedar, then finished in linseed oil.  Since this will be out in the elements, we wanted to prolong its life.  :)

Estimated Cost 

$250 including lumber, planter boxes and weather resistant screws

Length of Time 

2 afternoons

Modifications 

Made out of cedar instead of fir

Extended the table top for additional seating

Change gutter to planter boxes

Lumber Used 

8 2x6s at 8'

8 2x4s at 8'

Finishing Technique 

Linseed oil

May
22
2015
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor / Outdoor Mid Century Plant Stand
Project Details

It's as easy as 1, 2, 3! The sleek design is perfect to display your potted house plants or garden beauties... and so easy and inexpensive that you could build several in a single afternoon. Play around with paint colors and plant stand heights on this build - you've got the time!  

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor / Outdoor Mid Century Plant Stand

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$15-$25
Dimensions
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor / Outdoor Mid Century Plant Stand
Tools
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’  (you will only need approximately 2’ total)                               
  • 1 – 1” Wooden Dowel at 8’                                                          
  • 1 – 1/4” Wooden Dowel at 1’ (you will only need 6” total)    

       

Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6-1/2” – Short Centers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 7-1/4” – Long Center
  • 3 – 1” diameter Wooden Dowel at 30” – Legs 
  • 6 – 1/4” diameter Wooden Dowel at 1” – Pins               
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the Short Centers and the Long Center. With the Kreg jig set for 3/4” material, drill pocket holes on the long sides of the Short Centers – these angled ends will attach to the Long Center. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” Pocket Hole Screws. 

On the outer ends of the Short Centers and Long Center, drill two 1/4” diameter holes 1/2” deep as shown. Use a drill stop for a more precise drill depth. After drilling each hole, drop a dab of Wood Glue into each hole and insert a 1” long 1/4” diameter Pin into each hole.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor / Outdoor Mid Century Plant Stand
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor / Outdoor Mid Century Plant Stand
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Legs. Drill two 1/4” diameter holes 1/2” deep as shown. Use a drill stop for a more precise drill depth. 

 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor / Outdoor Mid Century Plant Stand
Step 3

After drilling the holes into the Legs, drop a dab of Wood Glue into each hole. Attach the Short Centers and Long Center to the Legs as shown by inserting the Pins, already glued into the Centers, into the holes in the Legs. Wood putty or caulk can be applied to the small gap on each side of the 1x2s that attach to the Leg if a smoother looking joint is desired. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor / Outdoor Mid Century Plant Stand
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Outdoor 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

May
18
2015
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Joe Serb's Equilateral Bench

This bench really caught me eye. I had to make it!

Followed the plans except for the slight modifications I did. Instead of using 2x2's for the frame I used 1x2 poplar. I just kept adding frame pieces until I reached my desired width. Thanks for the plans!

Length of Time 

4 hours

Modifications 

Instead of using 2x2's I used 1x2's and just kept adding sections until I reached my desired width.

Lumber Used 

Poplar.

Finishing Technique 

Outdoor UV block clear.

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Joe Serb's Equilateral Bench
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Joe Serb's Equilateral Bench
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Joe Serb's Equilateral Bench
May
14
2015
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Project Details

Part bunk bed, part play house and if made and finished with the right materials this awesome piece of furniture could be both indoor and outdoor compatible (water seal and all that jazz). If you have been with us here at TDC for any period of time, you probably already know by now that this is my favorite type of build. Multi-functional and the stuff that dreams are made of... Ah, to be a kid again...

As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$250-$300
Dimensions
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 3 – 2x6 at 8’            
  • 14 – 2x4 at 8’          
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’  
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 5 – 3/4” plywood at 4’x8’       
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x4 at 58” – Posts                               
  • 2 – 2x4 at 72” – Side Tops                       
  • 2 – 2x4 at 72” – Side Rails                       
  • 2 – 2x4 at 72” – Side Bottoms                 
  • 2 – 2x4 at 19” – Side Short Studs           
  • 2 – 2x6 at 76” – Side Bed Rails              
  • 2 – 1x4 at 76” – Cleats                              
  • 2 – 2x4 at 53” – Side Long Studs                      
  • 2 – 2x4 at 21-1/2” – Rungs
  • 2 – 2x4 at 43” – End Rails                                  
  • 2 – 2x6 at 43” – End Bed Rails                          
  • 2 – 2x4 at 30-1/2” – End Studs              
  • 2 – 2x4 at 43” – End Bottoms                
  • 1 – 2x2 at 79” – Roof Ridge                    
  • 8 – 2x4 at 31” – Rafters                            
  • 12 – 1x3 at 40” – Slats                              
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 27-1/16”x80-1/2” – Upper Back Wall
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 4-1/4”x31-3/4” – Back Wall Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 1-1/4”x72” – Back Wall Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 10-13/16”x80-1/2” – Upper Front Wall
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 48”x80-1/2” – Lower Front Wall
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 46”x80-3/4” – Head Wall
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 1-1/4”x17-1/2” – Door Bottom
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 1-3/4”x32-1/2” – Foot Wall Tops
  • 2 – 3/4” plywood at 2-1/2”x9-3/4” – Foot Wall Sides
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 46”x48” – Foot Wall Bottom
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 33-1/4”x80-1/2” – Back Roof
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 4-1/4”x33-1/4” – Small Front Roof
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 55-1/4”x33-1/4” – Large Front Roof

 

Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

For the Back Wall, cut the pieces for the Posts, Side Top, Side Rail, Side Bottom, and Side Short Studs. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Side Top, Side Rail, Side Bottom, and Side Short Studs. Make sure that the pocket holes drilled into the Side Bottom are within the area that will make contact with the Posts. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Side Bed Rail and Cleat. Attach the Cleat to the bottom edge of the Side Bed Rail using 2” Wood Screws. Clamp the Rail/Cleat “set” into place as shown, leaving a 1-1/2” space on each end for the End Rails. The Side Bed Rail, Cleat, and bottom of the Side Rail should be flush with one another. After making sure that everything is completely square and aligned, use a 7/16” Drill Bit to drill through the Side Bed Rail, Cleat, and Post. You should have two holes on each end for the Bolts. Fasten with Carriage Bolts and tighten. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 3

For the Front Wall, cut the pieces for the Posts, Side Top, Side Bottom, Rungs, and Side Long Studs. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Side Top, Side Bottom, Rungs, and Side Long Studs. Make sure that the pocket holes drilled into the Side Bottom are within the area that will make contact with the Posts. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Side Bed Rail and Cleat. Attach the Cleat to the bottom edge of the Side Bed Rail using 2” Wood Screws. Clamp the Rail/Cleat “set” into place as shown, leaving a 1-1/2” space on each end for the End Rails. The Side Bed Rail, Cleat, and bottom of the Side Rail should be flush with one another. After making sure that everything is completely square and aligned, use a 7/16” Drill Bit to drill through the Side Bed Rail, Cleat, and Post. You should have two holes on each end for the Bolts. Fasten with Carriage Bolts and tighten.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 5

For the Head Wall, cut the pieces for the End Rail, End Bed Rail, End Bottom, and End Stud. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the End Rail, End Bed Rail, End Stud, and End Bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 6

For the Foot Wall, cut the pieces for the End Rail, End Bed Rail, End Bottom, and End Stud. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the End Rail, End Bed Rail, End Stud, and End Bottom. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Slats. The Slats will be spaced approximately 4” apart. Attach to the Cleats on each end using 1-1/4” countersunk screws. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the Rafters and Roof Ridge. Cut the bottom ends of the Rafters at a 45-degree angle as noted. With the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2” material, drill pocket holes in both ends of the Rafters. Assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” Pocket Hole Screws. 

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Back Wall. If preferred, you can cut the Back Wall out of a solid piece of 3/4” plywood. However, this image shows the Back Wall made of several different pieces – time to use those scrap pieces of 3/4” plywood! Cut the top of the Upper Back Wall at a 45-degree angle. Attach to the back of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. The Back Wall should be attached to the Bed Frame 1/4” from the ground and have a 3/4” overhang on both sides.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 10

Cut the pieces for the Front Wall. The Front Wall will be cut in two sections – an Upper and a Lower section since plywood comes in a 48” width. Cut the top of the Upper Front Wall at a 45 degree angle. Make the ladder cut-outs with a drill and jigsaw. For these interior cuts, start at the inside corner of the cut-out and drill a hole slightly larger than the blade of the jigsaw. Insert your jigsaw blade and make your cut. 

When the wall is attached to the Bed Frame, the cut-outs should line up just above a 2x4 for extra support. Attach to the front of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws. The Front Wall should be attached to the Bed Frame 1/4” from the ground and have a 3/4” overhang on both sides.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Head Wall. Attach to the head of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Foot Wall. Attach to the foot of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.

Make the window cut-outs with a drill and jigsaw. For these interior cuts, start at the inside corner of the cut-out and drill a hole slightly larger than the blade of the jigsaw. Insert your jigsaw blade and make your cut.  

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Step 13

Cut the pieces for the Roof. Each end of the Roof pieces should be cut at a 45-degree angle. Attach to the Rafters and Ridge of the Bed Frame with glue and 1-1/4” Wood Screws.

That’s it! Experiment with painting the inside of the Bunk Bed a different color than the outside. You can also play around with installing puck or rope lighting… the possibilities are truly endless with this Bunk Bed!

The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
The Design Confidential DIY Furniture Plans for How to Build a Modern Lake House Bunk Bed
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

May
06
2015
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Eunnyjang's Patio Rocker

I built this rocking chair pretty much as soon as the plans came out! It's still snowing here in Colorado but I'm making sure I'm super-prepared for summer.

I love the way this turned out, barring a couple glaring errors that hopefully won't be noticed once everything is sanded and painted. Thanks for the great plans—they were precise and error-free.

Estimated Cost 

$20 for hardware and paint—all the lumber was leftovers and scraps from other projects.

Length of Time 

An entire Saturday and Sunday morning, including two unnecessary hardware store trips because I kept buying hardware with weird threadings that didn't' work together!

Modifications 

I made a handful of modifications:

1 - I tweaked the rocker curve for a faster rock (more like a 39" or 40" radius) and to shape the edges a little more. I also made the rockers out of 2-by material instead, partially because that's what I had and also because I made my chair out of softwood—I felt like they needed to be a little beefier to be stable and wear well on a brick patio.

2 - My chair was a little prone to splaying out at the back of the rocking action—I think because of the wood—so I used a length of all-thread as a stretcher between the back legs. It works really well to keep the rockers perfectly parallel and makes the rocking much smoother and more stable.

3 - Replaced the two bolts at each joint with one because I wanted to counter-bore with a washer on the outside; the joints are additionally pinned with screws from the inside to prevent racking. The benefit to doing it this way is that I could dry-assemble the whole chair and adjust everything slightly to get things perfectly level and make the rocking super-smooth before adding glue and screws.

I also swapped out the slats for 2.5" wide strips to match better with some other patio furniture I have, and made the seat back lower for more of a low-slung look.

Lumber Used 

Construction Douglas fir that had been sitting in my shed for a couple of months.

Finishing Technique 

Unfinished thus far, but I'm planning to paint with acrylic enamel in a fun yellow. I'll probably eventually cut the bolts down, too; I counter-bored for them so they stick out a bit too far.

Additional Project Details 

I tried template/pattern routing for the first time on this project, and it worked out amazingly well. I made my rocker template on 1/2" MDF (which also gave me a good chance to lay out and tweak the curve before committing) and then used it to make two exactly identical rockers. I also used the router to trim excess off the side frames, using the rocker surface as the new "template". The finished edges are smooth, flush, and perfectly the same—something I could never have accomplished freehand with a jigsaw.

The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Eunnyjang's Patio Rocker
The Design Confidential Builders Showcase Eunnyjang's Patio Rocker
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