Browse all Modern Style Free Woodworking Plans

Oct
08
2014
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Project Details

The Low Loft Bunk Bed Series is hands down our most popular series of project plans to date. Many of you have asked for a queen sized version of this fabulous sleeper and I am finally obliging! Yahoo. I have made a modification to the ladder in this plan, for both the orientation as well as the method of construction, to be more accomodating to adults and to allow for a more compact footprint. You can refer to this if you prefer it, when you are building any of the other sizes, and can adjust the width for the person who will use it. Easy to build, and extremely budget friendly, this Free Woodworking plan to build a queen sized low loft bunk bed is the perfect project for those of you who need to go up rather than out in your furniture layout. Upward and onward, as they say.

The other amazing plans in this collection are below! 

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Twin Sized Low Loft Bunk

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Toddler Sized Low Loft Bunk

Free Woodworking Plans to Build a Full Sized Low Loft Bunk

The Deets
The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$150-$250
Dimensions
Dimensions for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Tools
Lumber
  • 4 - 4x4 at 6' Fence Posts - UNTREATED
  • 2 - 2x6 at 8'
  • 2 - 2x6 at 6'
  • 14 - 2x4 at 8'
  • 15 - 1x4 at 6' - if 8' boards are cheaper, buy those - you will have leftover scrap.
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 - 4x4 at 59" - Legs
  • 2 - 2x6 at 81" - Side Rails
  • 2 - 2x6 at 70" - Head / Foot Rails
  • 2 - 2x4 at 81" - Cleats
  • 4 - 2x4 at 81" - Upper Side Rails and Center Support Joists
  • 4 - 2x4 at 70" - Upper Head / Foot Rails
  • 1 - 2x4 at 59" - Front Guard Rai Ladder Leg
  • 4 - 2x4 at 8 3/4" - Lower Front Guard Rail Ladder Supports
  • 1 - 2x4 at 18" - Upper Front Guard Rail Ladder Supports
  • 2 - 2x4 at 55" - Guard Rail Side Upper Rails
  • 4 - 2x4 at 27" - Ladder Rungs
  • 15 - 1x4 at 67" - Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut all 4 Legs to size and then notch out the sections shown in the image on one of the legs. You can use a jig saw, table saw or a circular saw to do this. Then attach the Cleats to the Side Rails using 2" Screws and be sure the bottom of the Side Rail and the Cleat are flush. You 

To attach the Rails to the Legs you will arrange the pieces as shown in the diagram below, making sure to leave 1 1/2" on either side of the ends of the Rails to allow for the Head and Foot Rails later. Clamp together making sure everything is completely square before you proceed. Once square and aligned as needed, you will use a 7/16" Drill Bit and drill through all 3 pieces on each side (the leg, rail and cleat), creating 2 holes on either side for the bolts that will secure this. 

Fasten with your Carriage Bolts and tighten.

Legs and Side Rails for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 2

Attach the Lower Head and Foot Rails to the Side Rails so that they sit flush with the outside of the Legs and with the Lower Side Rails. Use 3" Screws to secure these to the Side Rails. Use your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2" material, to secure the Center Support Joists to the Head and Foot Rails and 2 1/2" Pocket Hole Screws. Then fasten the Upper Side Rails one one side (not the side that will have your ladder) to the Back Legs using 3" Screws.

Upper Side Rails and Support Joists for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 3

Create your Guard Rail Leg Unit. This will be 2 - 2x4's, one long and the other cut into sections with spacing and dimensions as shown in the image. This will hold your ladder rungs later so just be sure that the separation between your shorter ladder supports will actually fit a 2x4 nice and snug. You need to fit it in place but you don't want any wiggle room so a tight fit is better than a slightly loose fit. Attach the Front Upper Side Rails to the Leg using 3" screws and attach to the Guard Rail Leg Unit using 2" Screws.

Guard Rail Side Rails and Ladder Legs for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 4

Attach the Upper Head Rails on the side opposite where you choose to put the ladder, in my example this would be the left side. Use 3" Screws and secure into the ends of the Upper Side Rails. 

Upper Head Rails for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 5

Lay your Slats approximately 2" apart. Be sure the 2 on the outside edges are flush in both corners. Screw down using 1 1/4" Screws or Nails and fasten to both cleats and both support joists.

Bed Slats for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 6

Attach the remaining 2 upper Foot Rails to the Back Upper Side Rails and the Front Leg using a Pocket hole System (Kreg Jig) set for 1 1/2" materials and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the Rails to the front Leg. To fasten the Foot Rails to the Back Side you can either use Pocket Hole Screws and glue to connect them to the Back Leg or 3" Wood Screws and Glue, with a countersink bit to predrill and secure directly to the end of the Upper Side Rails. 

Slide the Ladder Rungs into place and secure with glue. You can choose to secure with 3" Wood Screws from the legs into the ends of the rungs, but this is optional and you can absolutely secure with glue and call it a day!

Ladder Rungs and Upper Foot Rails for The Design Confidential Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Queen Sized Low Loft Bunk Bed
Step 7
Step 8
Step 9
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidential and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Oct
02
2014
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Pottery Barn inspired Toscana Table

I am new to building furniture and I am so very thankful for these plans. Saved me a lot of money.

So I got married in June and was walking through Pottery Barn with her one day when she said how much she loved a certain Pottery Barn Table. The Toscana Table is a beautiful table but no way I was going to spend what they are asking for it. I blurted out that I could build that, mind you I had 0 building experience and had no idea where to even start. So, after Google sleuthing for a few days I came accross this website and these plans. They were absolutely a life savor. I did modify it though. I used 2x6's for the legs instead iof 2x4's. It gave a thicker look and I felt matched the Pottery Barn version more closely. Also, the skirt, instead of have the 2x4's being vertical, I laid them flat. The reasoning behind this is that my fiance is 6'2'' and I am 6'3'', wanted a little more room for our legs. This adjustment also allowed me to extend the table top past the legs a bit more. For the stain I used General Finishes Java Gel Stain. You will not find a better stain for your money. It was so easy to work with and the end result was a beautiful rich color. The top coat I used was Min-Wax High Build Polyurethane. I am very pleased with the results and I am so very thankful for these building plans. I discovered a hobby that I love and can't wait to build something else now.

Building the Legs for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Pottery Barn inspired Toscana Table
Attaching the Center Joist for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Pottery Barn inspired Toscana Table
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

$100-$200

Length of Time 

2 weekends, about 32 hours

Modifications 
Lumber Used 

All Pine

Finishing Technique 
Additional Project Details 
Building the Support Frame for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Pottery Barn inspired Toscana Table
Angle Progress Shot for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Pottery Barn inspired Toscana Table
Finished Build and Stain for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Note
Sep
28
2014
The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches

Wonderful set of plans. Easy to follow. Easy to modify if you need to, as I did in my case. Results are very pleasing.

Beautiful Sides for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Close Up of Table Top for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Estimated Cost 

Eh, about $175, give or take

Length of Time 

About 4 Weekends plus a little after work a few nights for sanding and staining.

Modifications 

Well, there are a couple....

1. I don't like that the crossing legs on both the benches and the table were actually cut in half and attached. Therefore, I cut dado cuts into both cross pieces, glued and screwed them together for added stability.

2. My wife is an Italian and likes to have big meals with lots of peeps. Therefore, I modified the plans to push the table and benches to 8ft long rather than the original plan which is 6ft. I used a little flair in the center of the table to add the additional 2ft and break up the long lines that 8ft boards would have created. In doing so, I had to add some additional bracing on the underside to make it a bit more sturdy to support the extra length. But I didn't have to add a center support leg system.

Lumber Used 

Douglas Fur

Finishing Technique 

I used the same finish as the builder John because I like the way his photos turned out. I was not disappointed in the least. Two coats of Behr transparent weatherproofing all in one finish. Cedar natural tone

Finished Build for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Opposite Side of The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Fish Eye Wide Angle Shot of The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Table Top for The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Tahoe-Dude's Chesapeake Picnic Pable and Benches
Sep
24
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Project Details

I am so very excited to share this project with you today! You see, we are still in the warmer months out here in Northern California, but it is finally starting to cool down enough that we can actually enjoy some outdoor time. One of my favorite things to do, ever! So you better believe that when the amazing folks over at Simpson Strong-Tie challenged me to create something using their Workbench/Shelving Hardware Kit, that includes the metal connectors and screws (and fabulous directions for building a workbench or shelving unit), I had to build something that had nothing whatsoever to do with the kit’s initial intention. Naturally… And instead, I built something that can be used outside as easily as it can be used inside and for a variety of purposes and people, because that is how we roll here at TDC, am I right?

So this baby is one part outdoor chaise daybed lounge, one part twin sized bed, and one part indoor or outdoor playhouse! If you are just heading into your nice weather too, you can enjoy this fun house with a canopy over top for shade and lounge away or as an open construction imaginative play space for the kids. But, if you are beginning the descent into normal fall and winter months, this piece is a great way to bring some fun indoors without sacrificing playtime or sleep since there is plenty of room for both!

For mine, I spray painted the hardware in a neon yellow, then gave it a clear protective coat, and I left enough space below the floor to slide the mattress under and out of the way for when my boys want to play. Of course, you can use this space for storage and toys or lower the floor altogether and let the play have free reign. If you would like to build this using the kits, which made this build so ridiculously easy to put together, you can purchase them here and be sure to check out other clever uses for these on their FB page

Psst... the easy tutorial for the pretend campfire will be coming soon! Thank you to Simpson Strong-Tie for sponsoring this project and thank you to all of you for supporting the sponsor that help make content like this possible. You all make my world go round! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$125-$150
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Nail Gun
Lumber
  • 10 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 5 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 10 – 2x3 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 42-1/2” - Legs
  • 4 – 2x2 at 42-1/2” - Legs
  • 2 – 2x3 at 74” - Bottom Sides
  • 2 – 2x3 at 37” - Bottom Head and Foot
  • 2 – 2x2 at 75” – Outer Slat Supports
  • 2 – 2x3 at 75” – Inner Slat Supports
  • 20 – 1x4 at 39” – Slats
  • 2 – 2x3 at 37” - Top Head and Foot
  • 2 – 2x3 at 74” - Top Sides
  • 2 – 2x3 at 31” Roof Front Rafters
  • 2 – 2x3 at 29 ½” Roof Back Rafters
  • 1 – 2x2 at 74” - Roof Ridge Beam
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

* Notes: This bed will be hard to get through doorways once it is completely built. If you plan this for indoor use, you would be well served to build this in sections and then assemble in place. The sections I would build this in are 2 leg unit/sides: this would be a head and foot leg with side rail and there will be 2 of these for this bed, the floor: this would be the head and foot rails, slat supports and slats, and the roof: both pitches and the roof beam. The instructions below direct you to build these sections in this manner, so rather than attaching each section to the hardware as shown, you will build each section, move into place, and then secure each section to the hardware. Yahoo.

Step 1

Cut the lumber for the four Legs at the appropriate length. Each Leg will be composed of a 2x2 piece and a 2x3 piece. Set your Kreg Jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes as shown at the top of each 2x3 Leg. This will help you secure your roof pieces later.  Attach the 2x2 piece to the 2x3 piece with glue and 2” wood screws. Be sure to countersink for the best result.

Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Sides. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Sides and assemble as shown with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. Note that the Bottom Side is attached to the 2x3 portion of the Leg. You will do this two times, once for each side of the project. Take note of the position of the legs here (the 2x3 versus the 2x2). Your second leg unit will mirror this and your pocket hole placement should be facing in toward your 2x2 leg pieces.

Note: The placement of this side rail is a bit subjective and flexible. You can place it higher as shown below if you want store things underneath (like the mattress during play or when not used as bed). If you only plan for one use, feel free to set this piece at 3” up from the bottom.

Bottom Side Rails and Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build an Indoor Outdoor House Bed Playhouse + Outdoor Daybed Lounge
Step 3

Attach the connectors as shown by using provided screws. They will slide up and support the side rails and should attach where your side rails meet your leg units.

Note the direction of the connectors below. You will place the empty arm of your connector on the side of your leg unit where your 2x2 sits and away from the side rails themselves. 

Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Head and Foot Rails and the 2x3 Inner Slat Supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the Inner Slat Supports. Attach the Slat Supports to the Bottom Head and Foot with glue and 2-1/2” pocket screws. 

Step 5

Build your floor: Cut the Slats. Note that the first and last Slat will be ½” shorter on each end - this will allow room for the hardware. Attach the Slats to the Inner Slat Supports as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. The first and last slat will be spaced about 3/16” from the Bottom Head and Foot Rails. The Slats will be spaced between 1/4” from each other.

Step 6

Cut the 2x2 Outer Slat Supports. Attach the Outer Slats Supports to the Slats as shown with glue and 1-1/4” wood screws. (The Slat assembly has been flipped over in this graphic to better show how to line the pieces up.)

Step 7

Now things are really coming together for this piece! Place the slat assembly on top of the Legs/Bottom Sides/Brackets. Attach with provided connector hardware.

Step 8

Next, attach the Upper Connectors to the Legs with the provided connector hardware. Note that the top of the connector will sit 1/2” above the top of the Legs.

Step 9

Cut the pieces for the Upper Sides, Head and Foot. Assemble as shown by “nesting” the pieces into the connectors. Secure wood to the brackets by using the provided connector hardware. 

Step 10

This step will seem a tad tricky, but if you give yourself just a bit of wiggle room in your initial cut for this (2” or so will do it – cut at 33” and 31 ½”), then create your beveled ends and then adjust for length on the top which will be a standard straight cut, you will be just fine!

To create your beveled ends, you will lay your board flat and set against your fence, then tilt your saw blade to a 45⁰ angle. Note that tilt in this context does not mean turn but actually tilt. Your cut angle (the miter) will remain at 0 or 90⁰ depending on how your saw reads.

Make your first bevel cut, then flip the board over to the back side and made a second bevel cut 5/8” from the pointed edge. This will create a flat surface for your pitch to sit and will then carve off enough point to allow it to rest right inside your upper brackets!

Step 11

The Roof Beam is simply a 2x2 that runs between your two A-Frame Roof Lines. You will connect all pieces as you see above, using the provided connector hardware, however this beam might also benefit from pocket hole screws on either end to secure it to the pitch in a secondary manner. The connector hardware will be plenty strong, but since we are using the hardware in a non-traditional manner here and it isn’t sitting underneath the beam, it never hurts to give your joints a bit of that something extra, just in case your kiddos get monkey bar bound!

Step 12

To secure your roof section to your legs, fasten in place with those pocket holes you created in the legs early on! You can also secure from the top down into the legs using a countersink bit and 2” Wood Screws if you prefer. Just be sure to do this on the widest portion of leg unit you can so it doesn’t split apart your 2 boards that form those leg units or split your wood.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

TDC 
Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
12
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Project Details

By special reader request, this beauty was a gem to find in our plan request queue! I adore a gorgeous desk plan especially one of this variety of design! I hope you all like it too! 

We have quite a few other free desk plans for your woodworking enjoyment, but in particular I'm currently crushing on the stacked wood timber slat desk, the campaign desk, and the bromley secretaire desk!

Happy building friends, and be sure to enter our Giveaway over here if you haven't already! No sign ups required, just perusing and daydreaming! 

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$75-$100
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Tools
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 sheet of ½” plywood at 4’ x 8’
  • 1 sheet of ¾” plywood at 2’ x 4’
  • 1/2” dowel at 2’
Materials
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 27-3/4” (may need to rip 2x4s down to 2-1/2”) – Legs
  • 2 – 1x3 at 39” – Front and Back Aprons
  • 2 – 1x3 at 17” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Side Stretchers
  • 1 – 1x2 at 41” – Middle Stretcher
  • 2 – 1/2”x3” (may need to purchase 1/2”x4” and rip down to 2-1/2”) at 43-1/2” – Long Top Frame Pieces
  • 3 – 1/2”x3” (may need to purchase 1/2”x4” and rip down to 2-1/2”) at 14-1/2” – Short Top Frame Pieces
  • 1 – 3/4” plywood at 44” x 20” – Table Top
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14” x 20” – Cabinet Top and Bottom
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 14-1/2” x 20” – Cabinet Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 17” – Drawer Guides
  • 1 – 1x2 at 14” – Drawer Divider
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 13-1/2” x 14” – Cabinet Back
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 17” x 3” – Top Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Top Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 2-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Top Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 4” x 13-1/2” – Top Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1/2” plywood at 17” x 8” – Bottom Drawer Sides
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 12-1/2” x 17” – Bottom Drawer Bottom
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 7-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Back
  • 1 – 1/2” plywood at 8-3/4” x 13-1/2” – Bottom Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1/2” dowels at 5” – Top Dowels
  • 4 – 1/2” dowels at 3” – Side Dowels
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the lumber for the four Legs at the appropriate length. All four Legs will be cut at an angle on the inside, but two of the legs will need holes drilled in them. Use a 1/2” spade bit to drill holes on the narrow side of the wood in two Legs. It is easier to drill these holes before cutting the wood at an angle, since a flat surface is easier to work with when drilling. Drill the holes approximately 2” deep.

Next, draw out the measurements on all four Legs and cut as shown. The tapered leg will start at 2-1/2” from the top of the Legs. 

Leg Pattern for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
How to Make the Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the Front and Back Aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Front and Back Aprons Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. Only attach one “drilled” leg on both the Front and the Back Apron. Make sure that the holes face the inside of the project, since 1/2” dowels will be inserted in them at a later step.

Front and Back Aprons with Pocket Hole Screws and the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the Side Aprons, and drill pocket holes in each end. Assemble as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Side Aprons using the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the Side Stretchers and Middle Stretcher and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the Side Stretchers to the Legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Attach the Middle Stretcher to the Side Stretchers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Side Stretchers with Pocket Hole Screws for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Middle Stretcher using the Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the Long Top Frame and Short Top Frame pieces. Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the Short Top Frame pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. Next, drill two 1/2” holes all the way through the wood as shown. These holes will receive 1/2” dowels in a later step.

Arrange Top Frame as shown with a 1/4” reveal on each edge. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Cut Long and Top Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Arrange Top Frame for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 6

Cut the Table Top and secure using glue and 1” screws (screwed from the bottom). The Table Top will extend 1/4” past the Top Frame, and will be flush with the Legs and Aprons.

Table Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Sides. In only one of the Cabinet Sides, drill 1/2” holes approximately 1/4” deep, in each corner as shown.

Cut the pieces for the Cabinet Top and Bottom. Drill 1/2” holes in the Cabinet Top as shown at a 1/4” depth.

Set the Kreg jig for 1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the Top and Bottom Sides. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cabinet Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Cabinet Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Secure with Pocket hole screws and Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the Drawer Guides. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails (nail from the outside of the Sides). If you want to nail the Drawer Guide from the inside, do so before assembling Cabinet Box (space is limited inside the box), or simply glue and clamp until dry.

Drawer Glides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 9

Cut the piece for the Drawer Divider. Position as shown and secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Drawer Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 10

Cut the piece for the Cabinet Back. Drill pocket holes in all sides of the Cabinet Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cabinet Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 11

Cut the pieces for the Top Drawer Sides and Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the front ends of the Top Drawer Sides and in the sides and front of the Top Drawer Bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Top Drawer Back. Drill pocket holes in the ends and bottom of the Top Drawer Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Top Drawer Front. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.  The top of the Front will extend 1/4” above the top of the Drawer and the Bottom will extend 3/4” beyond the bottom of the drawer.

Top Drawer Sides and Bottom for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Top Drawer Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Top Drawer Front for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Step 12

Cut the pieces for the Bottom Drawer Sides and Bottom. Drill pocket holes in the front ends of the Bottom Drawer Sides and in the sides and front of the Bottom Drawer Bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Bottom Drawer Back. Drill pocket holes in the ends and bottom of the Bottom Drawer Back. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws.

Cut the piece for the Bottom Drawer Front. Assemble as shown using glue and 1” pocket screws. The top of the Front will extend 1” above the top of the Drawer and the Bottom will be 1/4” above the bottom of the drawer.

Step 13

Now on to the really fun part! Put a nice dab of glue in each drilled hole. The 5” length dowels connect the Cabinet to the Table Frame and the 3” length dowels connect the Cabinet to the Legs. The Cabinet itself should be flush with the front and back of the Desk. The Cabinet side should be 3-1/2” in from the side of the Desk. TIP: Paint the dowels a metallic color before gluing and inserting into the holes.

Desk Assembly for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Drexel Desk
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Sep
11
2014
Real Reader Build at The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Chic Little House A Frame Plant Stand

I found plans online to build the A Frame Plant stand from The Design Confidential. I showed Hasani my ideas and he was on board! On Friday night we stopped in Lowes and picked our supplies.

Finished Plant Stand for Real Reader Build at The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Chic Little House A Frame Plant Stand
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Lumber Used 

We decided to use Select Pine for the project which was a lot nicer and a little more than using the regular pine.

Finishing Technique 

For this project I used the new stains from Rustoleum in Weathered Grey.

Top Rung Close Up for Real Reader Build at The Design Confidential Builders Showcase // Chic Little House A Frame Plant Stand
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