Modern

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod District Storage Bench with Bin

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Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod District Storage Bench with Bin. These benches are stackable and work in conjunction with these storage benches here, so mix and match until your heart's content! 

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 2’
  • 1 – 1x4 at 2’
  • Quarter sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for edges of plywood
  • 2 – Angle brackets (to secure 2 units together if stacked)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 1x2 at 10-1/2” – Bottom Frame
  • 2 – 1x2 at 38-1/4” – Bottom Frame
  • 4 – 1x3 at 4” – Feet
  • 4 – 1x4 at 4” – Feet
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 13-1/2” x 39-3/4” – Top & Bottom
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 13-1/2” – Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 24” – Bin Front
  • 2 – 1x2 at 13-1/2” – Stretchers
  • 2 – 1x2 at 24” – Stretchers
  • 1 – 1/4” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 13-1/2” x 39-3/4” – Back
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Apply edge banding to exposed plywood edges before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

If building the units to stack, do not build the feet. The only piece that will need feet is the base unit.

Cut the pieces for the feet. Cut the angle as shown. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. There will be two left feet and two right feet. Attach to the frame with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the bottom. Attach to the frame and feet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the bottom into the frame.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends of the dividers. Attach to the bottom at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the bin front. Drill pocket holes in each of the shorter ends and attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes at each end. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the top. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the dividers and stretchers.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the back. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 8
Step 9

If stacking two units, attach the angle brackets to the frame of the bench that will go on the top, then secure to the top of the lower bench.

Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Stria Nightstand

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Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Stria Nightstand

Estimated Cost

$25-$50

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Half sheet of ¼” plywood
  • ½” plywood at 2’ x 2’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x8 at 6’
Materials
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1” screws
  • 5/8” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • Two sets of 16” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 17-1/4” – Bottom
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 20-1/4” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 18” – Top
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 18” x 21” – Back
  • 2 – 1x3 (ripped to 2” wide) at 14-1/4” – Pedestal
  • 2 – 1x3 (ripped to 2” wide) at 16-1/2” – Pedestal
  • 4 – 1x8 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • 4 – 1x8 at 15-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • 2 – ¼” plywood at 15-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 10-1/8” x 18” – Lower Drawer Front
  • 1 – ½” plywood at 10-3/4” x 18” – Upper Drawer Front
  • 10- ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 18” – Trim Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the bottom as well as the top of the sides. Attach the bottom to the sides using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides with 1-1/2” pocket hole screws through the holes in the side pieces into the top.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back. After checking the cabinet for square, attach using glue and 5/8” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the pedestal. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces to make a frame. Also drill pocket holes in one long edge of each piece to attach to the bottom of the cabinet. Use glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws to attach the pedestal. There will be a 3/4” border around the pedestal.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the pieces for the bottoms. Attach using glue and 5/8” brad nails.

Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions at the measurements shown in the drawings.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Attach to the front of the drawer boxes using glue and 1” screws placed where they will be hidden by the trim slats.

Cut the pieces for the trim slats and attach to the drawer fronts using glue and 5/8” brad nails.

Step 6
Step 6
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired King Stria Bed

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Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired King Stria Bed

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 6 – 1x2 at 8’
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 15 – 1x3 at 8’
  • One sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 5/8” brad nails
  • Surface mounted keyhole bed rail brackets (like these)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – 2x2 at 18” – Footboard Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 50” – Headboard Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 75” – Headboard & Footboard Frames
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 75” – Footboard Panel
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 36-1/2” x 75” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 1x4 at 84” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 81” – Slat Supports
  • 17 – 1x3 at 76-1/2” – Slats
  • 18 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 76-1/2” – Trim Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and headboard/footboard frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws as shown in the drawings.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the headboard/footboard panels. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the frames using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The faces of the panels will be flush with the faces of the frames.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and slat supports. Attach the slat supports to the sides using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the supports will be flush with the bottom of the sides. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the slats. Attach to the supports using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Do not use glue! 

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the trim slats. Attach to the headboard and footboard as shown with approximately ½” spacing using glue and 5/8” brad nails.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Dumont Buffet

Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Dumont Buffet

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Kreg Jig
  • Drill
  • Router with Patterning bit
  • Brad nailer
  • Square
  • Sander
Lumber
  • 1 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x6 at 6’
  • One sheet of ¼” plywood
  • Two sheets of ¾” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 3 sets of 14” drawer slides
  • 3 drawer handles
  • 2 drawer knobs
  • 2 sets of concealed hinges
  • Edge banding for plywood, optional
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  4 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 13” - Legs
  • 2 – 1x2 at 11-1/2” – Base
  • 2 – 1x2 at 27-5/16” – Base
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 53” – Bottom
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 20” – Sides & Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 16-1/2” – Shelves
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 53” – Top
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 17” – Drawer Shelves
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 20” x 53” – Back
  • 6 – 1x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 12-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • 6 – 1x6 (ripped to 4-1/2” wide) at 16” – Drawer Boxes
  • 3 – ¼” plywood at 14” x 16” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 6-7/8” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Fronts
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2” x 17-1/2” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-5/8” x 21-1/2” - Doors
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the curve in one piece using a jigsaw. Clamp the finished leg to an uncut leg piece and cut out using the router with a patterning bit. Repeat for the remaining two legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the base. Cut the bevel as shown in each end of the longer pieces to match the angle in the legs. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Drill pocket holes in the top edge of the longer pieces as well as one long edge of the shorter pieces to attach the base to the bottom. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the bottom. Attach the base to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front edge of the sides and dividers will be flush with the front edge of the bottom. The bottom will extend by ¼” to accommodate the back.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the sides and dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and dividers using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The front edge of the top will be flush with the front edge of the sides and dividers. The top will extend by ¼” to accommodate the back.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the dividers as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The spacing of the drawer shelves is not equal so that the fronts, when attached, are equal.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the piece for the back. Attach as shown (between the overhang of the top and bottom) using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Adjust as necessary.

Step 8
Step 9

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Attach to the drawer boxes . For an easy tutorial, click here. The top of the upper drawer front will be flush with the top of the cabinet. The bottom of the lower drawer will be flush with the bottom of the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap between the upper and middle drawer fronts, as well as the middle and lower drawer fronts.

Step 9
Step 10
Cut the pieces for the doors. Attach the concealed hinges so the top of each door is flush with the top of the cabinet. The sides of the doors will be flush with the sides of the cabinets. There will be a 1/8” gap between the doors and the drawer fronts.
Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Stria 3-Drawer Dresser

Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Stria 3-Drawer Dresser

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • Full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Full sheet of ¼” plywood
  • Half sheet of ½” plywood
  • 1 – 1x3 at 6’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 4’
  • 3 – 1x8 at 8’
  • 3 – 1x8 at 4’
Materials
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1” brad nails
  • 3 sets of 18” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 31” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 32-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/4” x 34” – Top
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 31-3/4” x 34” – Back
  • 2 – 1x3 (ripped to 2” wide) x 16-3/4” – Pedestal
  • 2 – 1x3 (ripped to 2” wide) x 32-1/2” – Pedestal
  • 6 – 1x8 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • 6 – 1x8 at 31-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • 3 – ¼” plywood at 18” x 31-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 3 – ½” plywood at 10-1/2” x 34” – Drawer Fronts
  • 15 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 34” – Trim Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece as well as the top of the side pieces. Attach using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides into the top. Check for square.

Step 2
Step 3

 Cut the piece for the back then attach using glue and 1” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the pedestal. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces, as well as one long end of each piece. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws, then attach to the bottom of the cabinet. There will be a ¾” border around the pedestal.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer box bottoms and attach using glue and 1” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Attach to the drawer boxes with glue and a few 1” brad nails. Place the brad nails where they will be covered by the trim slats.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the trim slats. There will be ½” spacing between slats. Attach to the drawer fronts using glue and 1” brad nails.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Stria 6-Drawer Dresser

Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Stria 6-Drawer Dresser

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • Full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Full sheet of ¼” plywood
  • Half sheet of ¼” plywood
  • Full sheet of ½” plywood
  • 2 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 6 – 1x8 at 8’
Materials
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1” brad nails
  • 6 sets of 18” drawer slides
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 31” – Sides
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 54-1/2” – Bottom
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 30-1/4” - Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-” x 56” – Top
  • 1 – ¼” plywood at 31-3/4” x 56” – Back
  • 3 – 1x3 (ripped to 2” wide) x 16-3/4” – Pedestal
  • 2 – 1x3 (ripped to 2” wide) x 54-1/2” – Pedestal
  • 12 – 1x8 at 16-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
  • 12 – 1x8 at 25-7/8” – Drawer Boxes
  • 6 – ¼” plywood at 18” x 25-7/8” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 6 – ½” plywood at 10-1/2” x 27-15/16” – Drawer Fronts
  • 30 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 27-15/16” – Trim Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the sides and bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the bottom piece as well as the top of the side pieces. Attach using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Cut the piece for the divider. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the bottom using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the piece for the top. Attach to the sides and divider using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws through the holes in the sides into the top. Check for square.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the piece for the back then attach using glue and 1” brad nails.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the pedestal. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces, as well as one long end of each piece. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws, then attach to the bottom of the cabinet. There will be a ¾” border around the pedestal.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the drawer box bottoms and attach using glue and 1” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here.

Step 5
Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Attach to the drawer boxes with glue and a few 1” brad nails. Place the brad nails where they will be covered by the trim slats.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the trim slats. There will be ½” spacing between slats. Attach to the drawer fronts using glue and 1” brad nails.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Queen Stria Bed

Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Queen Stria Bed

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 4 – 1x2 at 6’
  • One sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 17 – 1x3 at 6’
  • One sheet of ¼” plywood
Materials
  • 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” screws
  • 5/8” brad nails
  • Surface mounted keyhole bed rail brackets (like these)
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – 2x2 at 18” – Footboard Legs
  • 2 – 2x2 at 50” – Headboard Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 59” – Headboard & Footboard Frames
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 59” – Footboard Panel
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 36-1/2” x 59” – Headboard Panel
  • 2 – 1x4 at 84” – Sides
  • 2 – 1x2 at 81” – Slat Supports
  • 15 – 1x3 at 60-1/2” – Slats
  • 18 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 60-1/2” – Trim Slats
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs and headboard/footboard frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws as shown in the drawings.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the headboard/footboard panels. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the frames using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The faces of the panels will be flush with the faces of the frames.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the sides and slat supports. Attach the slat supports to the sides using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. The bottom of the supports will be flush with the bottom of the sides. Attach the bed hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step 3
Step 4

 Cut the pieces for the slats. Attach to the supports using countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Do not use glue! 

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the trim slats. Attach to the headboard and footboard as shown with approximately ½” spacing using glue and 5/8” brad nails.

Step 5
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Note

This post brought to you by Trade Beds at Metal Beds Ltd

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Hendrix Large Desk

Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Hendrix Large Desk

Estimated Cost

$100-$150

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • 2 – sheets ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 2x6 at 6’
  • 3 – 2x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x4 at 6’
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
  • 1 – 1x3 at 8’
  • 1 – 2’ x 2’ sheet of lauan, plywood, or hardboard
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
  • 2” screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • 1 – drawer pull
  • 1 set of 20” drawer slides
  • Wide edge banding for the top
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  •  2 – ¾” plywood at 26” x 85” – Top
  • 4 – 2x6 at 31-1/2 – Legs
  • 4 – 2x4 at 23” – Side Aprons
  • 1 – 2x4 at 64-1/8” – Upper Back Apron
  • 1 – 2x4 at 72-5/16” – Lower Back Apron
  • 4 – 1x4 at 23” – Top Supports
  • 2 – 1x4 at 19” – Back Supports
  • 2 – 2x4 at 34-1/2” – Diagonal Supports
  • 1 – 1x4 at 45-1/8” – Front
  • 1 – 1x4 at 18-3/4” – Drawer Front
  • 2 – 1x3 at 18” – Drawer Box
  • 2 – 1x3 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Box
  • 1 – ¼” lauan, plywood, or hardboard at 18” x 20” – Drawer Bottom
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the plywood for the top. Spread a layer of glue on the face of one piece with a brush and position the second piece on top. Wiggle the top piece around to create suction and clamp to dry. A few brad nails can be placed through one of the pieces into the other to secure the pieces together. Once the glue dries, apply edge banding to the exposed edges of the plywood and trim away the excess.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes at one edge of each leg. Do not forget there will be a right side set and a left side set so the pocket holes will need to face to the inside. Secure the legs to the top as shown using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the side aprons. Drill pocket holes at each end and secure to the legs using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The face of the aprons will be parallel to the edge of the legs and will be located 2” in from the outside edge.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the back aprons. Cut the angles as shown and drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the top supports. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes as shown. Secure to the legs and top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the pieces for the back supports. Drill pocket holes at each end. Secure to the back aprons using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The inside face of the supports will be flush with the inside face of the back aprons.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the diagonal supports. Attach to the side aprons using glue and 2” countersunk screws.

Step 7
Step 7
Step 8

Cut the piece for the front. Cut the angle as shown and drill pocket holes in this edge only. (If facing the front of the desk, this edge will be on the left and the pocket holes will be on the inside) Attach to the left leg using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the other end to the middle top support using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the front into the support.

Step 8
Step 8
Step 9

Cut the piece for the drawer box. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the drawer slide hardware. For an easy tutorial on how to attach drawer slides, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Step 9
Step 10
Cut the piece for the drawer front. Cut the angle as shown and drill the holes for the drawer pull. There will be a 1/8” gap on the sides and top of the drawer. Attach to the drawer box, then attach the drawer pull.
Step 10
Step 10
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pottery Barn Inspired Hendrix Bookcase

Project Image
Project Details

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a PotteryBarn Inspired Hendrix Bookcase! I can't tell you all how much I am loving this collection. I hope one of you builds this quickly, I can't wait to see it. 

Estimated Cost

$50-$75

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Drill
  • Countersink Bit for Drill
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig 
Lumber
  • 4 – 2x3 at 6’
  • Full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • Half sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 4’
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 2” pocket hole screws
  • 2” Edge banding for plywood
  • 4 – 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” angle brackets
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 2x3 at 70-1/2” – Legs
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 30” x 66-1/2” – Back
  • 8 – 2x2 at 12” – Shelf Supports
  • 4 – 2x2 at 30” – Shelf Supports
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 30” – Shelves
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 15” x 35” - Top
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to exposed edges of plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and the back. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the top of the legs (to attach the top).

Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the back as shown. Attach the back to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back will be flush with the inside face of the legs.

Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the shelf supports. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and attach to the supports and back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the pieces for the top. Spread glue on one piece and lay the other piece on top. Wiggle it a little to create suction and clamp until dry. Apply edge banding and trim as necessary. Attach the top using glue and 2” pocket hole screws through the pocket holes in the top of the legs into the top piece. Attach the angle brackets to the edges as decoration.

Step 4
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Land of Nod Compartment Dept. Inspired Bookcase

Project Image
Project Details

We covered plans for the table last week, and now for the matching bookshelves! Yahoo for Free DIY Furniture Plans for a Land of Nod Inspired Compartment Dept. Inspired Bookcase!

Estimated Cost

$75-$100

Dimensions
Dimensions for This Project
Tools
  • Tape Measure
  • Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
  • Square
  • Sander
  • Kreg Jig
  • Brad Nailer
Lumber
  • Two full sheets of ¾” plywood
  • 2 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 2 - 1x4 at 8’
  • 3 – ¾” square dowels
Materials
  • 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
  • 1-1/4” brad nails
  • Edge banding for plywood
  • Wood filler
  • Sandpaper
  • Wood glue
  • Finishing Supplies
Cut List
  • 4 – 1x4 at 47-3/4” – Legs
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 48” – Shelves
  • 8 – ¾” square dowels at 11-3/4” – Side Stops
  • 6 – 1x2 at 11-3/4” – Side Stops
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 12” – Upper Side Panels
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-5/8” x 11-3/4” – Middle Side Panels
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 21-3/8” – Lower Side Panels
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 41” – Shelf
  • 3 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 12” – Dividers
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-5/8” x 11-3/4” – Dividers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 41” x 45-3/4” – Back
  • 2 – 1x2 at 41” - Aprons
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Edge banding should be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood before assembly.

Cut the pieces for the legs and shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material. Drill pocket holes in the shelves where they will attach to the legs. Secure the legs to the shelves as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 1
Step 1
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the 1x2 side stops. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces and locate them on top of each shelf as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Cut the remaining side stops from the square dowels. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the legs into the dowels.

Both sets of stops should be located with the outside face flush with the outside edge of the legs.

Step 2
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the side panels. Drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back side of the panels should be flush with the inside edge of the legs.

Step 3
Step 4

Cut the piece for the shorter shelf. Drill pocket holes in each end at attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 4
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the shelves as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 5
Step 6

Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes as shown and attach to the legs with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Step 6
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the aprons. Attach to the top and bottom shelves as shown using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Step 7
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

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