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Aug
15
2014
Reader Showcase // Steppe Dresser for our New Baby!

With a baby on the way, we realized we need some more furniture, pronto. Here's what I built.

Drawers and In Progress Shot for Reader Showcase // Steppe Dresser for our New Baby!
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 

About $275

Length of Time 

Two Weeks

Modifications 

Slightly taller drawer boxes, walnut fronts with wood drawer pulls.

Lumber Used 

Birch Ply & Walnut

Aug
12
2014
Reader Showcase // A Swingset for Two

Just finished the frame! Thanks for the plans! Easy build for the wife to do.

Finished Swingset Frame for Reader Showcase // A Swingset for Two
To Read More About This Build, Visit This Blog Post 
Estimated Cost 
Length of Time 
Modifications 

 I also plan in building a canopy of some sort for the top. The only improvement I would recommend is to point out where the bolts to secure the top rail should go. You might have said and I probably just missed it. That and I used cedar 4x4s and they measure 3 3/4 where I think your plans went off a 3 1/2 wide 4x4. I'm gonna wrap a 3 inch tall peice of copper around the bottom to protect when mowing and such. 

Lumber Used 

Used all cedar and have several ideas for a canopy! Thank you once again

Finishing Technique 
Additional Project Details 
Enjoying the Swing in Reader Showcase // A Swingset for Two
Note
Aug
11
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Project Details

I figure after posting the plans for the Modern Adirondack Chair last week, you might indeed like to have plans for the matching ottoman! And so... I give you precisely such a thing! Yahoo... Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Estimated Cost
$25-$50
Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Tools
Lumber
  • 3 – 1x4 at 8’
Materials
Cut List
  • 2 – 1x4 at 17-1/4” – Side Aprons
  • 2 – 1x4 at 22-1/4”– Front and Back Aprons
  • 2 – 1x4 at 14-1/2” – Back Legs
  • 5 – 1x4 at 23-3/4” – Top Slats
  • 2 – 1x4 at 13-1/4” – Front Legs
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut out your Side Aprons. You will need 2 of these exactly the same. This diagram shows you how to mark out the shape you need for the Side Aprons. Use your circular saw to cut this out. If you simply connect the dots between the dimensions outlined below and use a circular saw to make these cuts, you won't have to worry about the actual angle for each corner

Dimensions for the Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Step 2

Cut out the Back Apron and attach as shown to the Side Aprons with glue and pocket screws. When you attach the Back Apron, align the corners noted with the top of the Side Aprons. This alignment is a little trick so that you don’t have to rip your lumber at funky angles! It will hardly be noticeable.

Back Apron for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Back Apron Detail for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Step 3

Cut out the Front Apron and attach as shown to the Side Aprons with glue and pocket screws. On both ends of the Front Apron, align the corners noted with the top of the Side Aprons.

Front Apron for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Front Apron Detail for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Step 4

Cut and attach the Back Legs as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. Align the top of the Back Legs with the corners noted of the Side Aprons.

Back Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Step 5

Cut and attach the Top Slats to the tops of the Front, Back and Side Aprons with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. The slats should be spaced 1/4” from each other, with approximately a 3/4” overhang past the Front Apron to later attach the Front Legs. Please note that the Top Slat toward the back of the ottoman will float slightly above the Back Legs. 

Top Slat for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Top Slat Detail for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Step 6

Cut and attach the Front Legs as shown with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws or brad nails. Align the tops of the Front Legs with the noted areas of the Top Slat.

Front Legs for Free DIY Furniture Plans //  How to Build a Modern Adirondack Ottoman
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Disclaimer

// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. // Post May Contain Affiliate Links

Aug
07
2014
Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Project Details

It's time for our little to head back to school and for those who are elementary age and above, this generally means it's time to hit the books. It seems as though a desk is an ideal piece to add to your handmade DIY furniture collection and this particular beauty is mighty fine speciman. Not too traditional, not too rustic, just the right amount of clean and streamlined... that means you should have no problem with competing styles when you add this baby to your home and hardware is completely up for grabs! Gotta love a versatile piece, don't you think? Xx... Rayan

Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!

Dimensions
Dimensions for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Tools
Lumber
  • 5 – 1x2 at 8’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 6’
  • 1 – 2x2 at 8’
  • 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
  • 1 – quarter sheet (2’ x 4’) of ¾” plywood
Materials
Cut List
  •  4 – 2x2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
  • 4 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Side Frames
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 18-1/2” x 23-3/4” – Side Panels
  • 4 – 1x2 at 44” – Back Frame & Front Stretchers
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 44” – Back Panel
  • 1 – 1x2 at 3-3/4” – Divider
  • 1 – ¾” plywood at 19” x 45” - Top
  • 2 – 1x2 at 19” – Top Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 48” – Top Trim
  • 2 – 1x2 at 18-1/2” – Drawer Slide Spacers (Sides)
  • 1 – 2x2 at 19-1/4” – Drawer Slide Spacer (Center)
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 18-3/4” – Drawer Bottoms
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Drawer Sides
  • 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 20-1/4” – Drawer Front & Back
  • 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/2” x 21-13/16” – Drawer Fronts
Instructions

Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.

Step 1

Cut the pieces for the legs, side frames, and side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panels. Secure the frame pieces to the panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panels will be flush with the outside face of the frame pieces.

Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Constructing the Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 2

Cut the pieces for the back frame and panels. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as well as all four edges of the panel. Secure the frame pieces to the panel using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The outside face of the panel will be flush with the outside face of the frame pieces.

Secure the panel assembly to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Attaching the Back with a Kreg Jig for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 3

Cut the pieces for the front stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.

Desk Stretchers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 4

Cut the piece for the center divider. Secure to the front stretchers using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Desk Divider for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 5

Cut the pieces for the top and the top trim. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the top. Secure the sides to the top using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws, then secure the longer trim pieces in the same manner.

Position the top so that the back is flush with the back of the desk, and the sides and front overhang by ½”. Fasten in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.

Construct the Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Attach the Top for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 6

 Cut the pieces for the drawer slide spacers. Secure the 1x2 side pieces using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Secure the center 2x2 using glue and countersunk screws through the divider and back into the spacer.

Drawer Slide Spacers for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 7

Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer box as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s installation instructions, locating them ¾” back from the front edge of the sides. . For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.

Drawer Bottom and Sides for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Drawer Front and Back for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Step 8

Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Mark the position for the drawer pulls and drill the holes. Shim the drawer front in the opening – there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides – then drive screws through the holes for the drawer pulls into the drawer box. Open the drawer, and secure the drawer front using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the holes for the drawer pull then finish drilling the holes. Install the drawer pull. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

Drawer Fronts for Free DIY Furniture Plans // How to Build a Hughes Desk
Finishing Instructions

Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School

Knock Offs 
Disclaimer

**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.

Aug
05
2014
Reader Showcase // Simple White Medicine Cabinet with Red Cross

My wife needed more storage space in her bathroom. We originally had shelves, but opted for something that she could close up and hide her beauty products if needed. Thanks for the great plans!

Estimated Cost 

$50

Length of Time 

4 days: 1 day for cutting, 1 for sanding and constructing, 1 for primer and paint, 1 for top coat

Modifications 

My wife didn't want the three small drawers, opting instead for one large door and more shelving space inside. I completed the cabinet door with plywood instead of glass and added a jigsawed plywood red cross on the front for a little more character. 

Lumber Used 

Pine

Finishing Technique 

Filled some holes with wood filler and sanded down. Followed with 1 coat of primer, 2 coats of semi-gloss white paint (to match our bathroom walls), then 3 coats of Minwax Polycrylic (sanding in between coats).

Additional Project Details 

I'm still relatively new to woodworking, so I hit a few snags. The two most difficult parts of this project were keeping the box and the door square, and finally mounting it to the wall in our bathroom (a wall which was not even). I mounted it to the wall using two 2" wood screws into studs and two drywall anchors and screws.

Front View with Finish for Reader Showcase // Simple White Medicine Cabinet with Red Cross
Inside Shelves and Storage for Reader Showcase // Simple White Medicine Cabinet with Red Cross
Aug
04
2014
Reader Showcase // Land of Nod Inspired Low Rise Crib

I appreciated the crib plans and wanted to show some pictures of what I did for the mending straps with photos.

This build cost me approximately $600 for materials.  It was straight up $300 for all the maple wood. Sand paper, scews, tung oil and woodshop rent time made up the rest.  It took about 2 months time to build.  I had a full woodshop and a master woodworking to advise me.  This crib was my first woodworking project ever. If I didn't have the woodshop and the master woodworker to ask advice I know this crib would not have been completed or come out as beautiful as it did. 

I agree with Josh and will repost his recommendations. Wish I had them when I had been working on my crib.

counter sinking
Adding Slats to side
Krieg jig maple plugs with 130 some Krieg holes to fill
Punching holes in nylon strip for mending strap
screws and washers holding nylon strip to mattress frame for mending strap
Eyelet to allow 1/4 screw into the crib frame where I put the 1/4 threaded inserts
Estimated Cost 

$ 500-600 for materials.  Work time and equipment will increase cost!

Length of Time 

2 months

Lumber Used 

Maple

Finishing Technique 

Tung Oil 

Additional Project Details 

Interior dimensions: the width meets federal spec but the length is 1/2 inch too long at 53'1/2. Simply cut all your length boards to 53 instead of 53'1/2 if you like. If I were to do the crib again, I'd probably cut the length to 52'1/2 inches, as this would be a perfect fit for almost all mattresses. If you go this route, remember to keep the mattress support slats flush with the top of the support frame to give a level surface. The pictures indicate the slats being inset a bit.

What helped us:

Wood spacers to place between the rails during installation.

We wanted to be able to disassemble the crib, so we put some finishing screws on the side of the crib and did not use glue

I would add recommending buying krieg jig PLUGS. They look much better than wood filling all the holes and probably save time and money for all the wood filler you use and wait time for drying and refilling the gaps that happen when the wood filler dries.  

I did not make the slanted leg supports but instead did a straight leg support.  I was told that the the slanted leg design might not hold up over time because they are a weak point of the body and with normal usage they are susecptible to breaking. 

For all the postings on federal law.  The law applies only to cribs for public purchase. If you are building it for your own use. You can make the slats however far or close you want. It is only a requirement for selling.  

Design confidential has a nice section on Lumber and The Raw Deal. Since I cut my own wood my length was nominal measured instead of the 'actual'.  For example: 1x3's are actually 3/4 x 2 1/2.     http://www.thedesignconfidential.com/2010/09/build-it-lumber-and-the-raw-deal

Because of this my slats ended up meeting the federal guidelines.  It did cause some other problems for me, particulary with the mattress frame. See Josh's recommendation above.

Hope that helps out anyone building this.

The Design Confidential Reader Showcase // Land of Nod Inspired Low Rise Crib
It's a Boy Reader Showcase // Land of Nod Inspired Low Rise Crib
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